May 22, 2009
graham SByer, your car with the new wheels look fantastic! Congrats!
Don't forget when you remove your hard top, you need to adjust the door window heights to match the soft top...�
May 22, 2009
SByer Ah, is that the funky looking adjustment screw at the bottom near the hinge (that I first noticed today)?�
May 22, 2009
DaveD Since you live near a Tesla Store, by all means go in there and have them do that adjustment. When I went down to Menlo Park to do the paperwork, and get the Roadster familiarization, I tried to get them to show me how to do that adjustment. They politely but firmly told me to bring it in and let them do it. That screw adjustment is touchy and parts inside the doors can "fall apart" if not done right.�
May 24, 2009
doug It's also near the edge of the door here:
�
May 24, 2009
ChargeIt! Picture shows one of TWO adjustment screws (per door). SByer also noticed the one at the front edge (near hinge) of door.�
Jul 31, 2010
kgb I was reading the manual, and it says that to switch between the soft-top and hard-top, the windows need to be adjusted to make a proper seal. It also says that the adjustment needs to be made by Tesl Motors. Question:
Has anyone had experience with that?
Has anyone had experience with poor fit of an after-market Lotus hard-top?
Thanks�
Jul 31, 2010
Zythryn I would also love to hear from anyone switching between the soft and hard tops.
I was told that, in order to make the adjustment, they remove the door panels.
Definitely not something I am going to try myself
However, Tesla also mentioned that the change from soft to hard tops MAY not require any adjustment.
Waiting for my hardtop and crossing my fingers
�
Jul 31, 2010
ChargeIt! Door panels do NOT have to be removed ... unless you mess it up (ouch!) and the adjustment screws end up inside the door panels. However, due to the sensitive nature of the procedure you should have someone experienced (Tesla store if convenient, or experienced nearby fellow owner) show you at least once. The Tesla store will probably do one adjustment for you free of charge. And yes, due to the nature (variability) of the parts fit, it is possible that no adjustment is needed on a particular car, or a prefect "blend" for the two different tops can be found with some practice (time consuming unless you get lucky).�
Jul 31, 2010
SByer I had mine adjusted for the soft top this year - didn't last year. With the adjustment, there is less wind noise with the soft top on.�
Jul 31, 2010
j-g I haven't had mine adjusted and found the hard top leaked a little washing the car, but so did the soft top. Hasn't been a big problem.
JG sig47�
Oct 28, 2010
kgb Now that I have my car, I was going to post a new thread question, when I realized I already started a thread practically on point.
I noticed that my car makes a lot of wind noise. To reproduce this, the soft top needs to be in place, the windows maximally rolled up, and I find I need to go 40 mph or faster. This isn't a little bit of noise, I can't talk on my phone <- no comment. I looked and at the front of the window, there is a hole where the soft top meets the front of the door. (It's night now, I'll take a pic and post it tomorrow).
Does everyone have this? Is this typical for a Tesla?�
Oct 28, 2010
stenkb I have the same problem....
I have had a telsa rep attempt to fix it twice by adjusting the window and door - however it had never gone away and is one of my biggest peeves with the car.....�
Oct 29, 2010
Alfred No adjustments needed when changing from soft- to hardtop on my European 2.0 Roadster. The fits do not differ. No extraordinary noises around either. Of course you have to ensure the hardtop is centered accurately when mounting. The quality of the whole body is excellent. Even in heavy downpours on the motorway it stays bone dry inside - with either top.
Alfred�
Oct 29, 2010
kgb I did the best I could with my phone's camera. Do other people have a gap like this?
This will be a long wait for the Model S unless I can find a fix. I might just go find a piece of foam and crazy glue it to where that gap is!
�
Oct 29, 2010
rsquared99 Number 562 is on the way back from Menlo Park where it was having a 12 v battery failure corrected. While the car was there, they said they installed a D-seal to reduce wind noise at the windows. I'll let you know when it gets back if I notice any difference in wind noise with the hard top installed.�
Oct 29, 2010
Doug_G That's odd. My Roadster is a little bit noisy, wind-wise, on the highway, but not objectionably so. My wife and I can easily carry on a conversation.�
Oct 29, 2010
kgb @William3: wow, don't give up hope. I'll find a solution and I'll post it here. I am disappointed with the noise, but after 3 days with the car, I am not as frustrated as you yet. But now that I know not to wait on a solution from Tesla, I will put matters into my own hands and come up with a solution.
I'm going to start with weather stripping and see if it works as a temporary fix, until I can find one worthy of a $140k car.�
Oct 30, 2010
cinergi Yikes, wow that doesn't seem normal to me. While I can't use the built-in bluetooth integration to hold a cellphone conversation with soft-top on at highway speeds, it's by no means annoying or painful to listen to ... and I can hold a conversation with a passenger with a raised (but not yelling) voice. Perhaps your customer advocate could help you?�
Oct 31, 2010
kgb I find that I have to use a raised voice as well, but I would describe it as "almost yelling." I suspect that William3, cinergi, and I have different definitions of what noise is. My problem is that due to listening to loud music in my youth, I have lost some hearing. Background noise makes it hard to hear. I suspect that maybe William3 might feel the same as I. Cinergi is just lucky to still have great hearing.
Today I will walk the halls of Home Depot and Pep Boys to search for a solution. I have an idea of what the temporary solution will look like, I just need to find the materials. (sadly, I think it will look awful, but I won't work on a pretty solution, unless I know it is something that can be fixed)�
Nov 1, 2010
kgb @William3: I have good news.
First, let me put this in perspective. There are certain sounds that are more-or-less the same for all of us and we can use as a measure of loudness. For example: The sound of the climate control with the blower on 3 or the sounds of the tires at 60 mph or the sound when passing a truck.
Prior to the fix, at 40 mph the interior wind noise was louder than the blower set on 3. At 60 mph, the interior wind noise was louder than the sound of passing a truck. After the fix, the vehicle remained silent at 40 mph. At 60 mph, the sound was barely perceptible over the blower set to 3. With the blower off, the interior sound was "pleasant." I could have held a normal conversation had I not been alone (on my way to work). At 70 mph, I could hear wind noise, but this time it sounded like it was coming from outside. It was definitely louder than what I was used to with my Mercedes SL hard top convertible, but it was very similar to what I remember from other people's soft top convertibles. It was around the same volume as what I believe is the sound from the tires, and still quieter than the noise from passing a truck.
I was going to take pictures of the fix, but yesterday was Halloween, so I was enlisted to decorate the house and give out candy. By the time that was done, it was pitch black and I hadn't tested the fix, so I wasn't sure I had something to tell you about. As I was doing the fix, I came up with a very cosmetic solution which I am sure you will be very happy with.
So, either today at lunch, or tonight after work, I will take some pictures and show you the fix. It will take longer to go to the store to get the materials then it will be to fix it.
P.S. I noticed that my driver side door and passenger door have different amounts of leakage. That's how I came up with my better fix, but it also made me realize that I owe cinergi an apology. It is very likely that we are all dealing with differing amounts of noise. I believe that the problem is with the design of the seal for the soft top (I don't have a hard top upon which to comment). The rubber seal from the convertible top, when snapped into place, displaces the door seal making a small gap. I believe the variable is the seal on the soft top. That is why I leak less on the passenger side than the driver side. The fix, simply reduces that effect. Pictures later...�
Nov 1, 2010
kgb DIY wind noise fix
Ok, here it is!
(I feel like such a showman... I am drumming up all this hype)
Here are is the equipment you'll need for the fix:
(1) A pair of scissors.
(2) 3/8 inch rubber foam weatherseal. Can it be some other weatherseal, maybe, but I chose this because of it had what I felt was the appropriate amount of sponginess and when cut, the remaining pieces maintain that property.
Here is a reminder of the gap's appearance.
Flip up the edge of the soft top convertible. Make note of where the rubber from the soft top was pressing on the door's rubber seal.
Tease the rubber seal from the A-pillar. In some places, the rubber will feel like it is glued to the pillar (It might be). Nonetheless, it is a pliable glue. You will need to gain access to the space behind the rubber seal. Only do this to the area where you are experiencing air leakage (near where the rubber seal meets the soft top).
You'll need about an inch of weatherseal.
3/8" is a little too wide. I cut it in half lengthwise.
The fact that it is self adhesive made it a little easier to work with. You can play with the placement and it stays there. You want to place the weatherseal between the rubber seal and the A-pillar.
This is what it looked like once it was in place and with the soft top snapped back down. See how the rubber seal is bulging out ever so slightly?
This is the picture with the door shut. The gap is now pin hole sized.
Makes you wonder why someone else (especially TM) hadn't come up with this earlier.�
Nov 1, 2010
cinergi I'll take it as a compliment to how good my hearing is :smile: no worries. This stuff's hard to compare remotely. I have other noises (e.g. the A/C compressor, and some chassis/suspension rattles) that I'd like to know whether they're normal but will need to drive another one (e.g. my salesperson's) to know.�
Nov 2, 2010
Alan Spot on - wind noise in cars is nearly always caused by air escaping OUT of the cabin rather than getting in. The air flowing past the car causes a low pressure area outside the doors / windows so air from the cabin will escape from any gaps. This air from inside hits the air flowing past the outside of the car and this is the main cause of the noise.
This is why sealing up an obvious gap does not always help - it may move the problem elsewhere.�
Nov 3, 2010
dsm363 Has anyone contacted Tesla about this issue (the people having problems with the wind noise) to see if there is some way they can fix this?�
Nov 5, 2010
rsquared99 For what it's worth, I said I would provide some assessment of the wind noise issue based on a new D-seal that Tesla service said they would install in my car. Verdict: after a couple of trips on the freeway I can report no wind noise with the hard top installed. That being said, I must say I wasn't bothered by wind noise since the hard top was installed, before any modification was done to the seal. That may be just the luck of the draw in my car's gaps or it might reflect that my old ears miss a lot of noise others might be sensitive to.�
Nov 6, 2010
tennis_trs Tesla made the modification on my car this week along with the 12V wiring recall and a couple other small issues. The modified/added sealing seems to fill the previously noted gaps and looks fine (i.e., as good or better than original factory look). It seems to have helped a reasonable amount with wind noise, but I haven't really gotten in any highway speed driving since (probably only up to 60 mph so far).�
Nov 6, 2010
kgb I am interested in this "factory" solution. Although my wind noise is reduced with my makeshift solution, it could be better. Next time I get a service I will request this. For now, I've had my Tesla a week and no major problems... however I was disappointed to see that my left front headlight has the condensation issue. I guess I'll ask for that fix too (if there is one by then).�
Nov 6, 2010
Doug_G They fixed my left headlamp, no problems so far...�
Nov 12, 2010
kgb I can't find where you discussed your headlamp repair. How was it fixed?�
Nov 12, 2010
Doug_G Baiscally they put sealant on the inside edge of the module. I had to catch a flight so I didn't see him actually do it.�
Nov 12, 2010
mpt I use an aftermarket roof that left a gap along the leading edge of the roof panel. It created a little less noise than the soft-top until I added the 3/8" foam weather strip all along the front. The reduction was marked but I wonder if it's the fact that I continued all the way along to meet the window approximating KGB's fix.
�
Mar 19, 2011
Doug_G My Tesla Ranger stopped in today to check something, and also installed the extra window weatherstripping.
Let me say, this made a HUGE improvement in the wind noise situation. :smile:
At highway speeds, road noise is probably the dominant source now. I can hear a little wind noise, but it's not significant.
I'm running with the hard top, and the suspicion is that it would have a greater effect than with the soft top. Next time I switch (waiting for summer) I'll try to compare.�
Mar 20, 2011
mpt I tried the Soft Top post wind noise fix. The only difference was that I could hear birds twittering through the roof. Wind noise, just as well reduced.�
Mar 21, 2011
dsm363 My car was delivered with the soft top and the wind fix but it's still really loud. I wonder if it wasn't done properly or that's simply how loud the wind noise is in the Roadster. At highway speeds, it sounds like I have the window down an inch even though they are both closed.�
Mar 21, 2011
mpt Perhaps we can establish a base line, do you have an iPhone/iPad/iPod Touch? There's an app I use called FFT that will measure sound levels. It's consumer stuff so might not be super accurate but the reviews report good correlation with proper sound level meters and I've found it to be close to my calibrated SPL meter.
Perhaps we can test during a calm day, on good dry tarmac, with stock tyres at recommended pressure, at a set speed, in the open. Hmm that's quite a few variables.�
Mar 21, 2011
vfx And placement.�
Mar 21, 2011
benji4 Perhaps just too many variables to do a meaningful analysis unless we could get all the cars together in the same place! The only thing that would make a big difference between different Roadsters would be the seal between the window and soft top which really seems to vary depending on the car. My car fortunately has a pretty good seal, and almost all the noise I can hear is just wind blowing over the soft top rather than wind penetrating the seal. Everybody is going to get that obviously. Yesterday there was a ton of wind blowing and around 100km/hr+, the cockpit got very noisy to say the least. Even then however, I did not hear any significant noise at the seal.�
Mar 22, 2011
dsm363 I figured the gap was around the window itself, not along the front of the soft top/windshield. I'll give that a shot. Thanks.�
Mar 22, 2011
kgb UPDATE:
iPhone App FFT is $25! That's too much just to check the difference in sound levels.
My next fix: I'm going to pick up a small tub of play dough and stuff the remaining small hole with it. I'll keep the play dough in the car, and just plug it each time I get in... Just like I have to turn the key to turn on the car, I will add "plug the hole" as part of my start-up routine.�
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