Chủ Nhật, 30 tháng 10, 2016

Firmware 7.1 part 12

  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Park button does unlock the remaining doors, even if the car has not yet been 'started'. Thanks @brec!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    note there's a new setting in 7.1 to enable/disable Lock on Park - I believe it's still enabled by default, same as pre-7.1. So I think engaging Park is not a solution to the original scenario, if setting is disabled.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    it's also quite likely that the same demographic that sets only the driver door to open when unlocking will also be the ones to disable unlocking on parking...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Well, if it has ended, I'm a tad sad. Still on 7.0. Not near a service center, so that option is out as far as getting the update. Perhaps I'll email them and just inquire... it is one thing to not get many of the 'bug fix' releases, where major new features aren't added, but to not get this release is a tad disappointing. Green1, I'll trade ya, you can have me 'lack of an update', and I'll take your update lol.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Thanks for speaking up! I'd just call the service number and ask :) -- usually much quicker than email turnaround time
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    If the car is already in Park, the (Park) button on the end of the gear stalk will extend all the handles when Door Unlock Mode is Driver regardless of the setting of Unlock on Park.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I just tested this, and yes you are correct, thanks. It wasn't apparent from the owner's manual
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Have you written to [email�protected] to make that request? The more people that do, the more likely they are to bring it back.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    The Release Notes has stated that 7.1 has improved the auto-speed algorithm of the wiper. Well, I'd like to revert this "improvement" if possible!
    I never had any problems with it before, it used to wipe at an appropriate speed. But this morning, driving in snowfall it was very irritating. I had to manually wipe it many times as snow accumulated but the auto setting wiper would not wipe (it was on the more sensitive auto mode already). However, once I reached my office parking garage (underground) and started to drive down a few floors indoors, it started wiping like crazy at full speed even though there was no precipitation anymore since I was indoors, I had to turn it off manually.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Yea. I also hit them up again for a way to recall driver's profiles before entering the car. I HATE that it can't recall profiles via FOB identification. Such a dumb oversight. Don't think I've been without that feature since 2001. I mean seriously, even the 1985 Benz S-Class I'm going to restore has seat position recall buttons on the door. That's right...30 years old, and it still has at least one up on the Model S.:rolleyes:
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Great. No harm in that.

    I just think it will probably be a heck of a lot easier to get Tesla to put back a simple option that may have been removed inadvertently as opposed to getting them to provide a completely new set of functionality, in spite of how many people want that new functionality.

    Who knows. Perhaps they'll do both!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Or they do Dinner Mode (the successor of lunch mode): you press break 16 times while flooring the accelerator and holding P; then you honk while at the same time pressing three buttons on the touch screen. Then when you hit the break the next time the car accelerates about one hundredth of a second faster from 0-60 than without any of this. And there will be a press announcement and a call with Elon and a seven dollar stock increase. And the same release removes the ability to store FM stations from the media app.








    Too soon?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest

    You know you're gonna get in trouble for leaking inside information again...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Agreed ZsoZso - a step backwards from 7.0. Sensitivity enjoyed previously now irritating, especially at slower traffic speeds for me in the UK.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I finally got the 7.1 update. I emailed Tesla on 1/15 and got the response that "The 7.1 firmware release for the 70kWh vehicle has been delayed due to an observed bug." However, I was at the service center today for an unrelated issue and had them check again. This time, they said that the update process had identified a problem with the 12V battery and had put the car on an update "blacklist". There were no other warnings or alerts concerning the 12V, so we really don't know what the root cause was. They were able to push the update, and it's all good now.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    That's quite interesting. An update "blacklist". So it might be worth for people who haven't received an upgrade by the end of a roll-out to contact Tesla service to inquire about this...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Are they just trying to help the people driving DeLoreans?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I don't know. If my S could serve me lunch, I would probably enjoy it. :)

    - - - Updated - - -

    I switched back yesterday from Driver to All because I don't want to fumble with the key fob and pressing the parking brake button or the screen twice was too much since I would essentially get in the car and then unlock the other doors while my passengers complained. It would be nice if I could tap the driver handle a second time to open the others. Maybe on the next update.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    that.is.genius
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    From the 7.1 Classic Thread...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    It is except that for the handles to feel properly responsive, I think they have to start extruding the instant they're poked. To register a double-tap the handle would have to wait a moment to see if a second tap is coming, and only then start coming out. I suspect it would feel wrong.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Quick tap to extend driver handle, press and hold to extend all handles. Problem solved!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    That works too.

    - - - Updated - - -

    My thought would be to press the handle a second time once it extended. Would our handles be able to register a press in the extended position?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I definitely would say that anyone who hasn't been updated should follow through with some questions. I had no indication of anything going wrong at any point, but no in-car indication that an update was available, either. Nor did the email from Tesla indicate any failure. In my case, it took a SC visit for my update to be applied.

    FWIW, "blacklist" is the exact wording my tech person used. I didn't ask if this was a list maintained at Tesla HQ or just a flag that needed to be reset in the car.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I called Tesla and similarly was told my car did not get the update due to low 12v battery. An update was not pushed to me, rather I was told my not-so-local SC would contact me. So, still without update, and wondering just what is up with my 12v. No mention made of a blacklist. FWIW, once I provided my name, it only took her a few seconds to tell me about the 12v causing me not to get the update.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I commend your taste in cars...
    A low 12V battery is something that used to cause me worries. I had three 12V replacements with my 60. None so far in my P85D. so maybe they have this one under control now, but it's definitely something to ask about. I remember that the last time the 12V was replaced in the 60 it was because "the diagnostics reported a potential problem", so they appear to be monitoring this more closely now...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My car can sit for days without being used, and might only put on 20 or so miles every week or two. Perhaps it went into some kind of deep sleep and/or drained the 12V while sitting (while connected to the charger), which led to a spurious reading. Just guessing. Apparently, the battery checked out fine.

    I was also told in my email that the "vehicle has shown less than optimal cellular signal strength overnight" and that they would "recommend connecting to your home�s Wifi network". However, I do have it connected to Wifi that's strong enough at that location to watch Netflix on a tablet. Not sure what's going on there - maybe another potential sleep issue.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    +1 :biggrin:

    By the way, for those who haven't seen the new graphics for trucks and motorcycles yet, I took a short video yesterday:

  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I've observed that lane-splitting motorcycles are more effectively handled than in the past.

  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    This reminds me. Is it driving anyone else crazy that the vehicles in neighboring lanes don't display parallel to the center lane? It's like they are all angled away. I know...nitpicking... but still bugs me.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I think tapping the rear passenger door handle on the driver side, which remain recessed, is easier to distinguish the command to extend all door handles.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Here's the challenge for some though... I believe some owners that want this new Driver Option, do so from a pure security perspective -- to ensure when they open the driver door to get in, no one else can open another door perhaps simultaneously without their intervention. If that is the case, allowing a double-tap on another handle defeats the benefits Driver mode as it is, provides.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    The second tap has to be on the driver side rear passenger door handle, not just any other door handle. I think that is safe enough for me.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    But surely you can see why that would still defeat the benefits of the Driver Mode option for others, right? Just because you would feel safe enough that way doesn't mean everyone would. It would make no sense for Tesla, after providing a more secure mode for the people that wanted one, to now change that mode to make it less secure.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    How do other manufacturers handle this? Tesla isn't the only company with fobs you don't have to touch to get in to the car, and we're constantly told they have this feature, so how do they handle it "better" than Tesla is?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Point taken, going back to the original request for the secure door opening, I thought it was to avoid the risk of a person coming in the dark opposite the driver side.

    - - - Updated - - -

    For Porsche, it works with short range FOB. Without touching FOB, I have to go over to the passenger side to open the door for my passenger, which makes me more gentlemanly:wink:
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Tesla has antennas at both ends of the dash from what I gather, so it should be trivial to do this, but I somehow doubt Tesla is likely to jump on it. I'm also not sure that would alleviate the concerns of those who find tapping the park button too difficult, as I'm sure walking around the car is more so.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Yeah, me too. That has always been the request/concern expressed on other brand forums I used to follow.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I think setting the driver door only will not allow the passenger door to open even with FOB being on passenger door. Three ways to open passenger door with secured driver door enabled are to use the FOB, or press the park button, or double tap the door open icon on main screen.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    That appears to be correct, I'm just saying that the solution of making it work that way seems a little weak if people think pressing the park button is too much work I doubt they'll want to walk all the way around the car.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    On my former Lexus it worked like this:
    1. FOB has both a lock and an unlock button (along with a button for the hatch and one for a panic alarm). Press lock and all doors lock. Press unlock once and only driver side unlocks; Press unlock twice and all 4 doors unlock.
    2. If you have the FOB with you and you grasp either front door handle, the door unlocks. If you touch an area on the top of those door handles, all doors lock when the FOB is outside the vehicle.
    3. There is then a physical lock and unlock all doors button under mirror adjustment controls on driver side door (which is an easy thing to access once the driver door is open, even before jumping into the seat.)

    IIRC my MBZ and former BMW operated somewhat similarly, although the German brands required a $600+ option to have the touch-sensitive door options, otherwise it was FOB and key-only access. Point being here perhaps, Tesla has one button on its FOB for main doors, others have both a lock and unlock button providing a little more flexibility for this discussion.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    So Tesla's solution, to my understanding, is that you can press the unlock button on the fob an extra time, that part is just like your german cars, pretty much any of the other solutions involve new hardware.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I would think so. The Japanese and German FOBs with both a lock and unlock button provide more flexibility than the single button Tesla has chosen to provide.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    And yet Tesla has managed to do the exact same thing with it's single buttons in this case as the German cars do with 2.
    My comment about more hardware was the touching above the handle and the unlock button on the arm-rest. Tesla already has the fob thing the same as everyone else.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Has anyone else noticed that it seems to be much easier to engage Hill Hold after the update? I don't know if it's my imagination or not. I feel like I used to really have to mash on the brake pedal at a light to engage it, but it seems to engage much easier now. Could be my imagination...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Compared to 6.2 hill hold in 7.1 is definitely one of the highlights. Works perfectly and intuitively for me.
    And having the little icon on the IC is one of the few real UI improvements to me.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Many of the false speed limit problems are due to the fallback to use the Navteq database speed limits when unable to read a sign or when a sign is lacking. If they would update the over 3 year old Navigon / Garmin maps, then the limits in the data base would be more current.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Design is an interesting and many times subjective thing when it comes to choices and how it meets different needs for different people. Owners and perhaps occasional drivers of a vehicle can decide which implementation is simpler or best in the spur of the moment to remember how many times to click which button (if one is provided).

    I personally am fine with either since I'll likely never use Driver Mode, as I do not generally have security concerns with someone jumping into my passenger side as I'm opening the driver's door, nor do I care that multiple handles present as I approach, nor do I desire a separate panic button as some Owner's may. (Yes, someone could honk their MS horn via the iPhone/Android App, but not set off a recurring honk/light combination alarm via the MS FOB as most "everyone else" has offered on their FOBs for years. ;)).

    Agree that I don't seem to have to push quite as hard and far with 7.1 to engage it now, as I did with 6.2 or even 7.0. I also use this all the time now that it's as good as my previous MBZ had, but am still overly annoyed with the ((H)) icon completely hidden by the steering wheel with the 7.x UI. If you're ever in my MS or behind me, you'll see me doing my neck craning exercises looking under the steering wheel every time I apply Hill Assist, to ensure it's on before letting up on the brake. :mad:
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My previous car had a button on the door handle. Press it once and the drivers door unlocks, press it twice and all the doors unlock.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Haven't noticed. Though I think the buzzing is gone from the hillhold in 7.0
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I'm glad someone mentioned the buzzing, as my car has had it from 7.0 and no one has mentioned anything. Recently, the SC looked into it and found nothing abnormal, but stated I had the "old style brake fluid" and they gave me the new one. The buzzing went down significantly, but this may have been due to getting updated from 2.7.56 to 2.9.40 at the service center. After 7.1, I can't really be certain it fixed it, but I'll be listening for it now. Anyone know what caused it??
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Was this a really quiet sound that almost gave the impression of a delicate metal/foil damper being rattled? Likely sensed to be coming from the front left area? I had that sort of sound and haven't noticed it since 7.1. Prior to that, it would appear during hill hold (foot off the brake) and on some occasions when I began to back up. I had a technician listen to it and he thought it was electrical noise being introduced into the sound system. I wasn't convinced, but he suggested an update might solve it... which it may have done... whatever it was.

    But... I'm curious... are we talking about the same thing?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My mother's Lexus works as follows:
    1. Have keyfob but do not use its buttons and keyfob up to driver door
    -- Pull driver door handle or press the button on the handle and only the driver door unlocks
    -- The button or door handles on any other door are ignored
    -- Can unlock other doors by pressing unlock in the car or unlock on the keyfob
    2. Have keyfob but do not use its buttons and keyfob up to any door other than driver's
    -- Puling the driver door handle or pressing the button on the handle is ignored
    -- Pulling the door handle or pressing the button where the keyfob is unlocks all 4 doors
    3. Press unlock on the keyfob
    -- First press unlocks driver door only
    -- 2nd press (shortly after first) unlocks all doors
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    So Tesla does 1 and 3 the same. only 2 is different.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Correct. Which is why I ended up turning driver mode back to all. I have gotten used to never using the fob, so I wasn't going back to it. And given that all the controls are towards the center of the car, I was getting in the car before the passenger and it caused too much grief. If #2 were there or I could tap the driver door handle after its extended to then unlock/extend the other 3 doors, I would turn it back to driver mode.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    For those with 12v issues I'd strongly recommend you grab a CTEK 4.3 amp smart charger and learn how to access the 12v jump posts behind the nosecone. Amazon.com: CTEK (56-864) MUS 4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic 8 Step Battery Charger: Automotive

    Charging your 12v manually a few times a year might keep you from missing an over the air update and having to visit a service center.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    For those with 12v issues, I'd strongly recommend getting the 12v issues fixed...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Toyota Prius
    Nissan Leaf
    Tesla Model S

    all have the same issue where they have vampire loads and the 12v has to be working to turn the car on before the main pack and inverter come on line. It's been an issue for over a decade if it were so easy to fix don't you think one or all of them would have done so already?

    The bix fix as an end user far as I'm concerned is using an external charger anytime the 12v battery gets low and charging back to full. The car itself doesn't do this under most in town or short to medium commute style driving habits. Only the super high mileage drivers get enough 12v charging from the cars inverter.

    You can replace the 12v battery but that just starts the cycle over again assuming you use another AGM battery. It'll happen again on the new battery too.

    They could change the charging profile for the 12v battery and have the inverter charge more aggressively but that has its drawbacks and will cause earlier failures in some cases.

    They could change the size and or style battery.

    * Larger AGM would have more buffer, see less depth of discharge and/or less cycles at the cost of increased weight and a higher price but would allow the inverter to charge more aggressively.

    * Moving to LiFePo or some other lithium ion chemistry would be more expensive but would save weight and allow for much more intelligent charging profiles.

    * Going to a dual 12v battery setup with one primary and one secondary would give redundancy for important processes but would add complexity and cost. Never been a good idea overall, people have tried that and always gone back to a single 12v.

    Would you like to give something more constructive than a one line response with real suggestions on how Tesla or an end user can fix this?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    You said "for those with 12v issues" implying it wasn't every car. If it isn't every car, then the ones who have the issue should get Tesla to fix it. I'm not going to get in to an argument here over whether or not the design is prone to problems, the point is that if your 12v system isn't healthy, keeping a battery charger on it "manually a few times a year" is not the right solution, nor likely very effective.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    If your preventative measures is what fixes the 12V battery issue, why is Tesla replacing the battery rather than just charge it once it arrives at the SC?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    a smart charger like the CTEK desulphates as it charges but that won't do any good if the battery is severely discharged or damaged in any way.

    12v lead acid batteries don't like to be taken down to low state of charge. It causes the sulfation to start or can put a cell into a state where it won't accept a charge (dead cell).

    By the time you take it to the service center the best thing for them to do is put a fresh battery in.

    But after you get that fresh battery if you want to keep it for a few years and not be replacing it repeatedly you will want to charge it in addition to what the car does. The higher average charge level the longer your 12v lead acid battery will last.

    Think of it like a heart attack vs surgery vs diet and exercise. The Doctor/service center will do a heart bypass/replace the 12v because that is the emergency fix. The diet/charging can prevent the heart attack/12v failure and prevent having to go in for the surgery. But you'll have to maintain the 12v with the charger as a preventative as often as needed and that will vary based on your driving and idle periods which is the comparative to exercise.

    - - - Updated - - -

    For those with 12v issues means it is based on the driver/owners habits not just on the car. There is nothing Tesla or any other car company can do to prevent all 12v battery failures but just yelling "fix it" sure as heck isn't going to get it fixed.

    You have to address the root cause or you'll just be replacing 12v batteries every 6 to 18 months.

    Maybe you should read Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech and think about it before dismissing my knowledge and experience as incorrect.

    Or maybe 12v battery died 250 miles from SC making me pay for 150 mile towing is another angle to consider.

    If your car is under warranty and you live really close to a service center maybe you don't care to just let them replace the 12v on a regular basis. Myself I'd consider that wasteful of

    materials
    time
    effort
    money

    at the least.

    If you aren't under warranty or don't live close to a service center a $60 external charger is way cheaper than replacing a $200 battery too often. As a bonus the $60 charger will be usable on every vehicle you own from now until the day they stop using 12v batteries in cars.

    As to the "few times a year" depending on your use you may have to do it all the time like every few days or never and every possibility in between. It depends on your usage profile, temps, and such.

    I'm saying it takes less effort and money to just charge the 12v using an external device than to deal with having to replace a battery in or out of warranty.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Yes, you are talking about the same thing, and the driver's side A-pillar region buzzing was indeed fixed with 7.1. And a little bit of interference in the A pillar speaker was the best way I could describe it. I posted about it in the 7.0 thread a while ago but never really saw much of a response. It cleared up with the 7.1 update, but I hadn't really heard about it from others until now.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    For what it's worth, Service advisor told me they effectively resolved the 12V issues by going to a deep cycle battery...
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Not true. Another mis-informed Tesla employee.

    Even a deep cycle battery of the Tesla size has it's life blood sucked out by the constant vampire drain.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Tesla has always used deep cycle batteries.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    No there was a change over in 2012 or 2013 from regular to deep cycle. I don't know the exact date but the thread I linked to mentions it and I've seen it mentioned in several other threads.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Updated the FW Tracker of course.

    My P85 Signature (work car) went in for a new windshield and got 2.10.56 today.

    Not sure if any changes (as its Pre-Autopilot) and I don't drive it.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I am usually a good little cookie with putting content into the tracker, but, I am bypassing this one. I was out of town all week. Was surprised to never see the software update on my phone even when Southern California was saying they were getting the update.

    Got into the car for the first time I was home and the update screen was displayed. Never got the notifications I usually do.

    I upgraded my network before I went out of town so my car was not on the home WiFi. I do not think this should make a difference, but, anytime I say anything in certainty online I am then usually proven wrong ;)
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    If you upgraded the firmware, why not put it in the tracker? I'm confused.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My guess is he is saying he's not going to update the tracker because he doesn't know what date he received the update.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    It's not that critical really. The date he installed the update is good enough. I'd rather have the data in the tracker and the dat of install than the exact day it happened to be downloaded, but not installed.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Yes, I was just guessing at why he wrote what he did. I wasn't suggesting that I agreed with it. (I'm pretty sure you know that. Just clarifying because of the quoting.)

    I actually took a different approach one time when I was away and found the update waiting when I returned. I had received the last several updates the day the first P85Ds had. So I back-dated my update to the first date of that one, (which was the date with the largest number) thinking in all likelihood, I had received it on that day, and also thinking that if I hadn't, my data being "wrong" on that day would have less impact than me using the date of install, which had far fewer people receiving it.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    The first Model X have received 7.1 (build 2.10.56) and the same build has also been installed on a couple of Model S - but while the Model X got their updates OTA/WiFi, both Model S are reporting Service Center installs.
    Interesting. But it confirms our expectation that Tesla aims to have a common firmware base for both cars.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I'm curious what's new and why they jumped from 2.9.x to 2.10.x.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My apologies if the following was already mentioned.

    There are some additional new features in 7.1 that I haven't seen mentioned before. Store staff are very happy to have a 'store' mode they can enable. It then m does things such as disable the horn and the alarm. It also limits the max volume of the stereo. If sounded like a couple of additional similar features are present, all to limit 'issues' with the demo cars in stores.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Tesla's version numbering scheme is a bit... eccentric. So I wouldn't assign any more meaning to it than the fact that they used 2.10.xx version numbers to quick fix all the issues they ran with Model X early deliveries (which was still 7.0 based) - so my guess is they moved the two branches and picked a new build number that would ensure that the numbers go "up" on both branches.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Perhaps I can't find it, but is there anyone else griping about the fact that the car seems to want to put itself back into park after shifting to drive or reverse, and not getting any significant input? My typical routine is to get in put my foot on the brake, shift to R or D, and then buckle my seatbelt as the car starts to coast. However lately I've noticed that the car wants to shift back into P unless you are actively pushing the accelerator. The worst case so far was tonight while I was backing out of a parking space that was on an incline, and it was not at all necessary for me to press on the accelerator. Half way out of the spot, the car just put itself back in park. ANNOYING!!!!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    This happens anytime the driver rises up (like when looking back over the seat) and takes weight off the seat. In those cases a squat switch in the seat thinks there's no one in the driver seat and shifts the car into park.

    Same thing happens if you come to a stop and get out without shifting into park. The car will then shift itself into park.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I believe there have always been reports of the car switching to park if the seat belt is not engaged and there is a lack of pressure felt on the front seat sensor. If you shifted your weight to look behind you as you were reversing, or shifted your weight to put on the seat belt, either one of those things could have caused enough of a reduction in weight on the sensor to cause the car to switch to park. This is a safety mechanism. It's not one that comes into play if your seat belt is on, so there is a pretty simple solution for the problem you have been encountering.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I think the middle build number is the high school grade from which they hired interns to develop the IC UI.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Tesla build numbers make good sense (according to this theory at least). 7.1.2.9.172 -> 7.1 = Major version, 2 minor version, 9.172 build number -> 9.172...->9.254 -> 10.1. Last number is bit based (254 = 2^8).

    Which in turn means 9.172 in theory should be build number 9*254 + 172 = 2458 of the 7.1 2.xx.xx fork. Which again means that they ar building like crazy.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Sounds reasonable.
    Imagine they use 'daily builds' on top of that.
    That would give very detailed insight in the advance of the release process.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    2^8 = 256. The largest decimal number that can be represented by an 8-digit binary number is 255.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Actually, 2^8=256.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks, Brec. Beat me to it!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Yeah that theory was established a while back when late 6.2 versions went from 2.4.253 to 2.5.21, while we were waiting for AutoPilot to launch with 7.0 - but I doubt they hit 256 versions of one dot-release before incrementing the second dot.

    For example, they went as far as 2.5.85 on the 6.2 branch, then went immediately to 2.7.40 for the first version of the 7.0 major release. So you can't use the 9*254 + 172 = 2458 calculation to figure out how many builds they've compiled since 2.0 started.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    That's completely made up and not supported by data. They had 2.10.x versions of 7.0 for Model X and 2.9.x versions of 7.1 for Model S.

    Additionally, no complex software product has monotonous build numbers. That's just not how branching in source code control systems works.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My bad, quick typo and embarrasing math error...:crying:

    - - - Updated - - -

    I know I can't say for a fact that that is the exact number of builds. But then again you would imagine they have quite a number of builds that aren't released still. The number of builds I guess will be wrong, but the numbering scheme I'd recon is somewhat like I and others before me have proposed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    What is made up and unsupported? The bit based theory (that seems to hold water, they never so far have released something higher than .253 I guess). The other part - made up, agreed, but still makes much sense. I don't claim they always go to .255 in a build branch, but they certainly never exceed that number.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    256 possibilities, but since 0 is included you can only go up to 255.

    In Hex it would be 0x00-> 0xFF where 0xFF is 255

    And, yes the Martian was my favorite movie of 2015.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My car is at the service center and was upgraded to 2.10.56 yesterday (yes, firmware tracker has been updated :biggrin:)

    However I did see a notification that the update failed, then another notification that an update was available 15 minutes later. Nothing else since. VisibleTesla and TeslaLog.com both show 2.10.56 is the current version. Should I be concerned?

    IMG_0009.jpg
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I don't think you need to be concerned.

    The update may have failed for some reason, so the tech may have sent it to your car again, which I imagine could take about 15 minutes with whatever cabled connection they might have (as opposed to having to get the data via OTA.) Presumably shortly after 4:45 the tech allowed the car to actually process the firmware update, and it completed successfully that time. You may not have received the notification of the successful update for any number of reasons, if that's what has you concerned.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Thanks, I'll just be sure to check everything (especially AP functions) before I pick it up later today. With the long service center wait times these days, who knows when will be the next time I'll be able to get them to take a look at it again..
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    UPDATE: my super-awesome service advisor quickly replied to my request with the following email:

  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    My MS is in the shop and Update Available came up on the app (possibly because it's in the shop ?).

    When I went to the Tesla Firmware Upgrade Tracker I got a 404 not found today :crying:
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Oops.. that's now fixed. I hate mod_rewrite syntax. :)
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Nice, thanks Hank :biggrin:

    Hmm it looks like there's something new, but I don't get mine back until Tuesday now ugh
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Just for the record....... She :smile:
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    anyone having any problems with their Calendar app?

    I have it set to shot the calendar in the morning and it was working before...but has since stopped. However, if I change the settings to either evening or all the time it works..just not morning.

    Any ideas?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I have mine set to "all the time" and it continues to work well for me. Maybe you just need to change your setting if "morning only" has been broken? I can't really think of a lot more a user can try except to reboot and pray like we did for so many years with Windows. ;)
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I'm having nothing but trouble with 7.1. Tesla installed the latest firmware yesterday on my car and the radio is totally broken. The mute button doesn't work at all and every time I start the car I have to re-select the FM radio station I listen to. Also, this morning it took 2 minutes for the car to power up. When I first powered up this morning the volume control did not work at all. The numbers would change on the screen but the volume level didn't change. I have reset the center console several times. That fixed the volume issue, but not the mute issue.

    Also, my car has a lot of problems connecting to my Android phone now with Bluetooth.

    Note that my car is one of the early models with a fairly low VIN.

    I also don't like the new layout since 7.0 on the dash screen.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I've been noticing a lot of "false" positives with the parallel parking feature in 7.1. What I mean is that the parking symbol gets displayed on the IC even though there is not a valid parallel parking spot. This is easy to overlook because it happens in spots where I am not even thinking of parking. I was just startled to look down at the IC and see the indicator when it clearly did not apply.
    Examples:
    1. Stopping at a traffic light next to the curb on the right. Parking indication to my right. No cars to my right and I am actually close enough to the curb to be parked if it were legal.
    2. Stopping at a traffic light in a left turn lane on a street with a center divider. Parking indication to my left. No cars to my left and again close enough to the curb to be parked, if it were legal.
    3. Stopping in traffic next to cars parked on right. Parking indication to my right. As best I could tell from the side mirror, the gap between cars was too small for a subcompact, let alone a Tesla.
    When I'm quick enough to remember, I have been submitting bug reports from the car as these occur. And no, I did not try to engage autopark to investigate what would happen next. :wink:

    I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Easy to miss because you are not trying to park.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Here I was going to take a break from TMC for a while... and then I got the update notification... and it appears I'm the first person to receive 2.10.71 (ok, the first to report)

    No change in the release notes.

    FullSizeRender-1.jpg
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Perhaps Tesla created a special version, just for you!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    They were so happy that I finally capitulated, as a reward I get the new one first? Sounds plausible...

    Oh, I get to name it: "Expectans Lenimentus"
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Means "expecting improvement"
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Had to use Google Translate, but I like it!
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I have had this happen, specifically #2 above. I mentioned it somewhere, but can't remember which thread now. Yet I can't get it to perp park at all.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Ah. At first I thought that was a spell from Harry Potter.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Just got 2.10.71 tonight. Didn't take very long to install, no idea what it changed (if anything).
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Please post the data to the firmware tracker Tesla Firmware Upgrade Tracker Web App
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Oh yeah... the best one I've found (repeatable) is the drive thru lane at my favourite Tim Horton's (eh). It suggests I might like to jump onto the curb and park between the menu board and the building.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I got 2.10.71 last night as well. It installed in about 20 minutes. The release notes are the same as the initial 7.1 update, so don't know what changed. Still no Summon feature for this Canadian.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Same here. And still no Summon in Norway.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I'm giving up on AP until the next update. It's too unreliable/drunk/scary in 2.9.154 almost anywhere. Anytime it's driven well feels like luck. Science experiment is on hiatus for me.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Tesla has basically told me that nobody pays any attention to those bug reports. email them a time and location instead if you want them to know about it. [email�protected]
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Wow. Seriously? I have never received any response (even automatic) from sending email to servicehelpna and figured that the way to go was the in-car bug report system... argl.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I emailed servicehelpna to tell them that I didn't want to downgrade to 7.1's AP restrictions based on the fact that my car never knows the correct speed limit, and the maps are so outdated that it couldn't possibly know if roads are divided or not. They replied the next day and said I should send any examples I had of incorrect speed limits. I told them I had sent dozens by "bug report" and they then basically told me that it hadn't been addressed because nobody reads the bug reports, and I should email them dates/times and locations instead. I've now sent in quite a few, they've "forwarded them to development" (which is probably code for "nobody cares")

    Once I see some movement on improving the maps and speed limits, and much better reports on the AP in general, I'll consider changing software versions. Until then, I'll enjoy the car the way *I* want to.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I've contacted them twice and both times had a reply within 24 hours.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I think this is normal. Keep in mind the car doesn't really know that there is a parking spot. It knows that as you drove by slowly, using the ultrasonics it could tell there was a space that the car could fit. The car can't tell that you're at a traffic light, etc.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    I'm still on 2.9.154, and this morning on the drive to and from Costco on undivided roads I noticed some new behavior on a road that used to give TACC fits. Up until this morning, ever since 7.0, TACC has refused to hold speed on a particular stretch of newly-paved, well marked, two-lane road near my house. You'd set it for SL+5 and it would act like a drunk person, slowing down a bit, speeding up, slowing down a lot, speeding up a bit, etc., all while Autosteer was doing a perfect job of following the lane markings; it was very repeatable and there was no reason for it except my surmise that the new roadway wasn't properly represented in the nav database. This morning TACC behaved perfectly on that stretch, as well.

    The other new thing is that the 7.1 limit to speed-limit-plus-5 on undivided roads has suddenly disappeared. I mean, completely: TACC allowed me to set 55mph in a recognized 35mph zone, and it would have done 55mph if I'd let it. Same for all the roads around my home: I tried it on four different roads, including residential streets with no markings whatsoever (no Autosteer: just TACC). I never once got the "speed limited on this road" warning, nor any hint that TACC wanted to slow down when the speed limit dropped.

    Has anyone else see this today?
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    Tacc was never restricted. Only auto steer with tacc was restricted.
  • 1/1/2015
    guest
    tacc slows down for curves. It probably thinks there are curves coming up.
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