Thứ Tư, 2 tháng 11, 2016

Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues part 12

  • Mar 11, 2013
    Lloyd
    yes, I agree from the washing side, but such a large amount of water should not be allowed to pool there. Perhaps a well placed silicone would help. I'm hoping that Tesla has a better idea before I fill this gap!
  • Mar 11, 2013
    pete8314
    I use a blower to clear it out after washing, but you're right, that area holds way too much water...it's annoying when cleaning the car.
  • Mar 12, 2013
    EarlyAdopter
    You can use a leaf blower to dry the car, or for small areas like that a can of compressed air.
  • Mar 14, 2013
    Pmacafee
    Yesterday, after messing around in the cargo area, the hatch will not latch by itself. It lowers and clicks and then starts right back up again. If I place me hand on the hatch and press slightly, then it latches. I can close it manually, but with the remote it just goes down and then back up again.
    Philip Macafee
  • Mar 14, 2013
    steve841
    Did you attempt to adjust the bumpers in so that the latch can make a better connection?
  • Mar 14, 2013
    Pmacafee
    No, I thought of that but was worried that it was a software/sensor thing. I will try dialing in those bumpers about a 1/4". Will post the result
    Philip Macafee
  • Mar 14, 2013
    shady
    That's happened to me just once (while demo-ing the car)
  • Mar 14, 2013
    Zextraterrestrial
    hmm. never though of a leaf blower. I just drive really, really fast for ~ 1/4 mile!
  • Mar 14, 2013
    Pmacafee
    I fixed it by resetting the hatch height. I think the fob got sat on or something, maybe the height got set as the closed position. That doesn't make sense but when I reset the hatch height to full up, the problem went away. Thanks everyone

    Philip Macafee
  • Mar 14, 2013
    gsxrex
    My driver reading light won't click any more. The light works fine, as it comes on when entering the car, but the mechanical button isn't working when I try to turn it on manually. Guess that means I shouldn't read my newspaper while driving. :p

    I'll get it fixed at service eventually (maybe when my parcel shelf comes in), but it's not a critical issue by any means.
  • Mar 14, 2013
    jerry33
    Mine didn't click from day one. Passenger's side works fine.
  • Mar 15, 2013
    EdPalermo
    I picked up my Blue loaded 85 today from Westchester Mall and drove home to my home on Long Island. Plugged it at home with 170 miles left and similar problem to Swegman. Car basically went to sleep. Ranger came and woke it up for a minute and then back to sleep. Very disappointed as Ranger told me that they cant come to get it until Monday morning. Really hard to spend over $100,000 and have this happen. After reading this thread, I'm preparing for long haul. I hoped it might be a quick fix.....
  • Mar 15, 2013
    Quibbs
    My car has 250 miles on the ODO. The issues I have found so far are: Rear seat belts only pulling out at a certain angle and the small triangular window in front of the large drivers side window needs to be sealed better. Outside of those issues the car is great so far. I guess I will call the DS and ask what they can do about the small window. I can hear a fair amount of wind noise and can feel a cold draft from about 8 or so inches from that area. We live 400 miles from the nearest SC.
  • Mar 15, 2013
    znino
    Same issue with the rear belts. If you pull them out an an angle that is normal when seated they catch and scrape when pulled on more. This is a serious problem that is starting to fray the belt. I have had the car 3 months. I had read something somewhere that there was a fix that Tesla could do for this but i never got to the bottom of it. I will be asking them to look at it soon when I go in for some other minor adjustments.
  • Mar 15, 2013
    mcornwell
    Ditto for me...
  • Mar 15, 2013
    Beavis
    They can fix the seat belts. It's a plastic guide piece inside the trim that is causing it to be sticky. They can remove them. The belts work much more smoothly after removing it. It took the tech about 5 minutes to remove both of them in my car.
  • Mar 15, 2013
    FlasherZ
    I recall reading a post about the passenger mini-window seal getting a fix where some pieces were swapped out. Perhaps you're seeing the same thing (I'm also getting a noise from the small window after a car wash).
  • Mar 16, 2013
    mknox
    Does this prevent the belt from extending fully? I took a passenger in the back seat for the first time, and the belt would not extend far enough to reach the buckle. Tried both sides... same thing. It was a larger person wearing a bulky coat, but have never had this problem in any of my other cars with that person.
  • Mar 16, 2013
    Lyon
    After installing 4.3 my rear camera isn't working. It simply says its unavailable. I've reset the center screen to no avail. I thought that maybe pulling the fuse responsible for the camera would reset the system. Anyone know which fuse it is?
  • Mar 16, 2013
    Volker.Berlin
    You may be referring to Edmund's suspension walkaround:
    2012 Tesla Model S Signature Performance Suspension Walkaround
  • Mar 16, 2013
    Beavis
    After they did mine, the seat belts work flawlessly.
  • Mar 16, 2013
    znino
    Great news. I will get them to look at my seatbelts too!
  • Mar 16, 2013
    dflye
    This problem cropped up for me with the driver side light after a month or so of ownership; pushing the fixture didn't produce the expected tactile response to engage/disengage the light. Technician was able to resolve the issue quickly when he was in town checking on other owners' issues (prior to local service center opening), but can't recall if it was a simple realignment of the fixture or replacement of a faulty part.
  • Mar 18, 2013
    shady
    My garage doesn't have any 3g service. Usually, when I drive to work, it connects within about 2 minutes. This morning, I'd been driving for about 5 minutes into an area I know has 3G, but the car wouldn't connect. I rebooted, while driving, and it connected. I'm still on 4.2.
  • Mar 18, 2013
    Ben W
    I've noticed this as well, especially when trying to play music from Slacker, where it can get stuck indefinitely. Changing the channel or pausing/playing the music can sometimes goose it into reconnecting, but it's certainly something that should be improved in firmware. I've only had 4.3 for a couple days, but will keep an eye on it.
  • Mar 19, 2013
    teslasguy
    Lots of people had the air leak at the small triangle window, including me. They got a fix from the factory that they said involved installing a washer (shim) in the big window mechanism. Quick fix that cured my air leak.
  • Mar 20, 2013
    neroden
  • Mar 20, 2013
    mknox
    I have no air noise at all. Perfectly silent, however, I ran the car through a touchless wash and got a trickle of water inside and down onto the door panel from that area of the side glass on the driver's side. I suppose I'll mention it to Service, but weird that I can hear no wind/air noise at all when driving.
  • Mar 20, 2013
    akula
    I'm afraid I have another handle problem to report. As I parked in the garage and got out of my driver side door, I saw the left rear door handle extending waaaay after the car was in park. I pulled on it and it opened the rear door. I closed it and the handle would not retract back in along with the rest of the handles when you would lock the car. It looked like it was stuck almost half way. I pushed it in manually all the way and now it will not extend at all. The other 3 handles work just fine. Does anyone have a solution for this or should I just call tesla service tomorrow?
  • Mar 20, 2013
    znino
    Same thing happened to me. Tesla came. Removed 2 fuses to reset the handle mechanism and put them back in. Everything worked after. If you know how to access the fuse box in the frunk the two fuses they took out are the red ones in the middle of the picture attached. The two 10a red ones that are aligned need to be pulled. (these are the 2 that are aligned with the 5a brown fuse ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363837529.545484.jpg
  • Mar 20, 2013
    akula
    Do you need to do anything to the car beforehand? i.e. shut something down, unplug from charger, etc...


  • Mar 20, 2013
    stevezzzz
    Just be careful when removing the fuses: they're a tight fit and it's way too easy to have one pop out and disappear into the bowels of the car.
  • Mar 20, 2013
    kevincwelch
    This has happened to me twice! I thought it was the open door dripping onto the sill. Come to think about it, I had the passenger front door open right after the wash today, but no water.

    I don't detect an air leak either.

    Sent via Tapatalk.
  • Mar 20, 2013
    znino
    They did it with the car off (no fob around) and unplugged from the wall
  • Mar 20, 2013
    akula
    damn, that was worked quick :) I just unplugged the car from the charger, had the fob in my pocket. Accessed the fuse box and pulled the two 10a fuses. One controls the front set of of handles, the second controls the rear. As you put one in, each set resets and comes out of the doors. All good! :)
  • Mar 21, 2013
    znino
    Excellent. Glad it worked out :)
  • Mar 21, 2013
    Tommy
    Unless your experience is different, each fuse controls either the left side or right side door controls; fuse #32 controls the right side, fuse #41 controls the left side. This is per the owners guide. Probably still a good idea to pull both fuses to reset both left and right side door controls.
  • Mar 21, 2013
    akula
    I swear I saw them come out front, then rear as I plugged the fuses back in. But it was late and I might have been just tired so perhaps. Also, what is the difference in #s32,41, and 40? 40 says it controls rear door handles, but 41 is for left door controls...
  • Mar 21, 2013
    nolngrgrsngslde
    I hear that too but don't think much of it.
  • Mar 24, 2013
    nolngrgrsngslde
    Had an interesting issue with driver side window two days ago. It refused to go back up.

    I also had a strange feeling that something was about to happen right before it happened.

    As i pull into a parking spot at the tennis club, a lady knocks on my window and says, "nice car, is this a Tesla", i rolled down the window and talked to here a bit. At this time, i was thinking that i don't want to open the door, not out of fear of the lady , but some strange feeling about that window would not go back up with the door open. Then she said that her son wants to see it and i decided to open the door and get out.

    Showed them the car and then tried to roll window back up. Woudn't you know it, my sixth sense was right on. Window refused to go up or down. totally dead.

    Called road side "obliviance" , 7:00 pm EST, and all they could do was take my name down, leave a message for the service center, and, download me a new software. i was on 4.3 (1.25.31), the sent me (1.25.4..).

    I rebooted everything i can think of and no dice.

    AT this time i decided to drive home and let it download while driving.

    An hour later, the download complete, installed it, no dice.

    I removed any fuse that has to do with the door and replaced it, including F39 which is the left front window motor fuse. No dice.

    I gave up. went to sleep, a bit disturbed. It is still cold around here and my Monday is booked, soonest i can take to service is tuesday.

    I did not tell my wife that night on purpose. I did not want questions and doubts about the car, i just want to go to sleep.

    In the morning, (saturday) no sooner i tell her about it, i minimize it, turn my back and go get dressed, she is down in the garage tinkering. I have no idea she is doing so.

    She comes back to report that the car claims that it does not sense a key fob in the car. Message on the dash "No key....". I actually thought she was reporting an earlier message.

    I go in the garage, sure enough, she was tinkering but, i noticed the window lower than i left it. I go in, i see the No Key fob message. Does not even recognize my key fob either. I reset both consoles and, all of the sudden the window is operational.

    One more problem left. While it goes up and down with the switch. It also goes down automatically when you open the door but not UP when you close it. Open the door and close it multiple times and the window goes down further and further. This makes me think that the door should autodrop only in the very top position, which it does under normal circumstances but, what state was it in that leads to this behavior?

    That is good enough for me, i reach over from passenger side and I raise it, no issue, I can wait until Tuesday. I take my son to soccer. "Fail to Auto-raise" issue persisted through soccer game and lunch.

    Later the same afternoon, Auto raising decided to work, did not do anything special.

    I will take to service, this post serves as documentation for the incident.

    What do you guys think,

    something mechanical to came loose overnight?

    Tesla did something during the night?

    Multiple reboots to care of it?

    Hardware or software?

    Thanks.
  • Mar 24, 2013
    steve841
    Uh oh .... this one ain't pretty!

    te.jpg


    Just when I thought it was washer fluid ... I dipped a finger in and it is COOLANT!

    Jumped in the vehicle and sure enough ..... COOLANT LOW!
  • Mar 24, 2013
    Grendal
    Ouch! Pulling fuses and doing resets isn't going to fix that. You might need to get a whole new battery pack for that one.

    Good luck.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I have a similar issue with my non-Model S ICE car. It seems to happen when it is very cold. I'm thinking that there is condensation in the door and the colder temps cause the connection to break. Does the temperature outside the car seem to have an effect?
  • Mar 24, 2013
    nolngrgrsngslde
    Too bad about the coolant, you did not run over anything did you? Maybe you'll get a fresh battery.



    Well, i did park it in the garage all night and it is fairly warm in that garage, it is fairly well insulated. Also, the car seems to warm the garage at times.

    Still though, it only worked after i reset both consoles to get rid of the "key fob not in car" error message. And even then, it was not perfect. hardware control (via switch) worked, software control (Auto-up at door closing) did not work until later in the afternoon.
  • Mar 24, 2013
    steve841
    No, didnt run over anything .... took some pics of the underneath just in case they try and throw that one in the excuse bucket.

    Leak is coming from above the battery.

    So Im sure this is going to be fun....
  • Mar 24, 2013
    nolngrgrsngslde
    Steve841:
    What instructions have you gotten from Tesla so far?

    e.g, don't charge it, don't drive it.

    Maybe drive it but not too fast.

    How are you taking it to the service center, drive or tow?
  • Mar 24, 2013
    steve841
    I started a new thread as this is a new issue (to the forum) ....and since its a DO NOT DRIVE issue, it may warrant everyone's attention.

    http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/15137-Revenge-of-the-ICE!-My-newest-problem
  • Mar 28, 2013
    HansK
    I picked up my car last week from the factory and it stopped clicking after one use. They fixed it, but after I got home, I pressed it again and it's back to no clicking. Still turns on and off automatically and when entering the car.
  • Mar 30, 2013
    pxy
    Having pulled the fuses with the window stuck down, the regulator might have needed to re-learn it's range of motion before it will auto drop. I think to do this, close the door and cycle fully up, fully down, and fully up again. Not really sure about your first issue though.
  • Mar 31, 2013
    Super Gizmo
    When I took delivery of my car in early Nov last year on two different occasions my front doors popped open. Recently I came back from Dr's office to find all doors unlocked and rear left door ajar. Luckily no one grabbed my precious little dog from the back seat. My car has been to the Fremont service dept. four times for these and numerous other issues. I have had issues with door and hatch alignment, tilt wheel not operating properly, front end alignment etc. etc. The last time they replaced my left rear door handle but the tilt wheel is still not fixed after going there 4 times. I have never had any new car with so many problems. I know there are people on this and other forums who attack anyone who brings up any mention of problems with these cars. If I continue to have problems with $100000+ car and Tesla does not live up to its promises of replacing sun visors and shade for the panoramic roof I won't post on these forums but instead send out nationwide news releases on news wires about my experience with Tesla so everyone knows the truth about the poor quality control of these cars.
  • Mar 31, 2013
    Todd Burch
    Sorry you're having issues, but...wow...what's with the threat?
  • Mar 31, 2013
    steve841
    Have you reached out to GeorgeB via the forum? You'd be amazed when an interested executive actually gets involved what gets done.
  • Apr 1, 2013
    Super Gizmo
    Todd Burch
    Sorry you're having issues, but...wow...what's with the threat?

    No threats - just disseminating facts.
  • Apr 1, 2013
    Suzieq
    SG: "If I continue to have problems ...I won't post on these forums but instead send out nationwide news releases on news wires about my experience with Tesla so everyone knows the truth about the poor quality control of these cars."

    Sounds kinda like a threat...
  • Apr 1, 2013
    EarlyAdopter
    Poor quality control on your car, perhaps, but there's no data to back an assertion it's true of all Model S's. Mine, for instance, has been 100% defect free, something I can't say of the last 3 cars I bought (Audi, BMW).

    You may want to investigate your state's lemon laws. Given enough visits to the shop, or total days there, you may be legally entitled to a new car. Often manufacturers will bend over backwards to make sure it doesn't come to this as they don't want a lemon recorded and reported.

    You'll likely be 10x more successful just talking to Tesla and perhaps dropping a hint that you'd hate to have to lemon the car if they don't move to address your concerns, than taking it to the press.
  • Apr 1, 2013
    FlasherZ
    Not to mention that the press isn't always going to cover the angle you want to. I was once so pissed off after America Worst (err, West) Airlines had a fire in the cargo hold, then hid it from those of us who had serious breathing problems from inhaling the fire suppressant and stuck us in a corner of the airport away from the press that I went and sought the press out. They took my quotes out of context and made it look like I defended the airline's actions instead of calling their piss poor management into question.

    No one pays attention to "publish yourself" newswires, and the good newswires will filter out inappropriate material.

    How about working with Tesla instead of threatening them?
  • Apr 1, 2013
    Super Gizmo
    Thanks for the advice guys. I'll give them one more opportunity to fix the problems and then look into CA lemon law.
  • Apr 1, 2013
    SuperCoug
    Sending out a "nationwide news release"? Wow, that's gonna get some serious attention. I'll be sure to set up a Google News alert. What should I set up as the search term, "Random guy bitching on the Internet"?
  • Apr 2, 2013
    Super Gizmo
    SuperCoug, In my post I was referring to people like you who attack others on forums with their vulgarity. But that is all right because after all we all have freedom of speech and I see you are an attacking super cougar.
  • Apr 2, 2013
    montgom626
    "do as I say, not as I do"

    You just attacked the guy? Is this a "do as I say, not as I do"? Chill dude. Take a deep breath.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Very good suggestion.
  • Apr 2, 2013
    SuperCoug
    Vulgarity? What vulgarity? I checked my TMC Forum settings and I have Sarcasm set on "HIGH" and Vulgarity set on "NONE".

    My point is that you are not going to get much attention with a Press Release where you attack Tesla. I agree with the others that contend you will be more successful if you work with Tesla and give them a chance to make you happy.
  • Apr 2, 2013
    brianman
    I think he was referring to the itching word, SuperCoug.
  • Apr 2, 2013
    Super Gizmo
    I think he was referring to the itching word, SuperCoug.

    Thank you brianman. If the cat had read my post, just above his, in response to some other posters I had already said I was going to let Tesla have another try at fixing the problem.
  • Apr 3, 2013
    mcornwell
    Well, Tesla took my car Monday morning to look at the rubbing sound coming from the steering column, and about 7 other things. I was under the impression that the car would be returned to me later in the day, but didn't hear anything from them at all. After sending an email to them that evening, I received a reply apologizing that they they were very busy, and that someone should have let me know that the car wouldn't be ready until Tuesday.

    What they did do well:
    * Replaced the Piano Black interior trim with CF (the factory screwed up my order)
    * They also fixed the driver side map light that others have had problems with
    * Replaced exterior driver door handle (door has popped open on it's own about 10x) - However, an hour into having the car, the door popped open on it's own after I closed it, had to re-open it because it didn't latch all the way, then closed it again
    * Adjusted passenger door which required more force than the other doors to close
    * Reflashed security module after 4.3 upgrade left me with handles that extended on their own, and parking lights that came on at random times

    The jury is still out:
    * Shortly after picking my car up at the factory, I noticed a flaw in the paint in 2 spots above the right side doors. It was a torrential rain storm when I picked up the car, so I didn't see them until I got home and had washed the car. The service center said they could send it to the body shop to touch-up. It almost looks like a flaw in the clear coat to me. I'm still undecided if I want to do this
    * The buzz/rattle in the driver window while at freeway speeds. They diagnosed it as a problem with the seat belt mech, and ordered a replacement. I'm not convinced this is the source, but I'll take them up on their offer to replace it

    What they failed to do:
    * The steering noise. The tech said something to the effect of "we're supposed to do a test drive of every car, but we didn't really do an extensive one, and instead listened for noise and didn't hear anything." Well, 10 seconds after jumping into my car, I could hear the noise. I had driven down the street, then turned around and came back to show the tech, who was still packing up the trailer. I didn't even have to drive him around, the noise is pretty bad if you turn the wheel just at a standstill, especially as you get to limit of the turning limit. The tech seemed pretty surprised at how loud it was, said something might be torqued too much or too little, and said the car was probably OK to drive, but that they would look at it when it's in for the seat belt mech, hopefully next week.
    * Still no rear spoiler after 3.5 months
    * Still no cargo shelf after 3.5 months
    * They didn't address the request for the P85 badge
  • Apr 10, 2013
    MikeK
    Has anybody experienced the A/C just cutting out and the car blowing hot air?

    I had the following sequence of events a little while ago. It's 84�F here in Sunnyvale:

    1) Got in the car to run an errand. It's hot inside.
    2) A/C starts blowing a little air, and I can hear the low rumble of the compressor coming online.
    3) After a few seconds, fans ramp up and the car is blowing tons of cold air.
    4) When I was just about to turn out of the parking lot and onto the street (i.e. less than a minute later), I paused to enter the navigation destination
    5) Through the steering wheel, I could feel a high-frequency vibration, and I can faintly hear a corresponding noise
    6) A/C fans turn off completely, and noise stops. Fans then restart and ramp back up a second or two later.
    7) No more cold air
    8) I turn climate control off

    I drove to my errand with the windows down, enjoying the warm weather.

    When I got back in the car after my errand, I turned the climate control back on, and steps 1-3 occur again, and the car proceeds to cool down normally with expected behavior of the fans slowly ramping down as the car got closer to normal temps.

    I'm planning a nice trip this weekend with friends, so if this portends trouble I'd like to get it looked at ASAP.

    Is the climate control system's compressor shared with the battery cooling? We could live with open windows, but I sure wouldn't want to be stuck out because the car couldn't condition the pack.
  • Apr 10, 2013
    jerry33
    I had the heater blowing cold air and the A/C blowing almost no air, but that was fixed with a reboot of the 17" display.
  • Apr 11, 2013
    znino
    I have a question about the leather in the back seats. I keep forgetting to check if others have it when I have been in the service center.

    I find that the leather in the back seats on side hip bolsters, near the door is not perfectly stretched tight (the non-perforated section). I would like to know if this is on all cars or just mine. I have attached two pictures of what I am talking about. Can you let me know if this is the same on yours or not? This has been like this from day 1 but I never paid much attention to it assuming it was normal but I just clicked that maybe it is not.

    I also am finding that my drivers seat (part I sit on) is starting to get less tight as well. Not looking promising if it is less taught after three months only!
    photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG
  • Apr 11, 2013
    dmfick
    That looks terrible. You should definitely sell the car.
  • Apr 11, 2013
    Seegem
    I agree--that's just about the worse quality I have EVER seen. You should not even bother selling it, just give it away. It's a total lemon

  • Apr 11, 2013
    ckessel
    Others seem to be giving you grief for some reason, but you've got my sympathy. That doesn't look particularly good.

    My seats are much tighter stitched than that, though I've got the perf so that portion of my seats is alcantara.
  • Apr 12, 2013
    JRP3
    It may not seem like much of an issue but the problem is the wrinkled sections are high spots and likely prone to accelerated wear.
  • Apr 12, 2013
    znino
    Yes with the alcantara it's more pliable. I need some non performance people to let me know how theirs are.
  • Apr 12, 2013
    doug
    Yeah, that leather is not looking great. I'm sure Tesla would want to do better.
  • Apr 12, 2013
    mknox
    What non-Performance models got the perforated leather? Was that a Signature thing?
  • Apr 12, 2013
    znino
    I agree but i am still looking to get positive confirmation from people that their leather in that area looks better than mine before i call Tesla on it. C'mon people, look at your seats and let me know please :)
  • Apr 12, 2013
    bonnie
    znino - PLEASE call Tesla on it. The leather in other cars does look better.

    The seats are supplied by a vendor who rents space on Tesla's factory floor. I'm surprised those types of wrinkles made it through various quality checks ... but they did. The cost associated with swapping this out will likely be something the vendor handles - and it will only go to improve future quality.

    Let us know how it goes. I can't imagine Tesla won't want to know about this.
  • Apr 12, 2013
    znino
    ok thanks. i will. I suppose the way to go with this is to email Tesla Ownership? I do not really think calling local service is the proper channel. what do you think?

  • Apr 12, 2013
    jerry33
    Always go through ownership. That way it gets recorded properly (we think).
  • Apr 13, 2013
    Stoneymonster
    Mine looks like this, I little rumply, but seems ok to me:

    photo.JPG
  • Apr 13, 2013
    znino
    Thanks for the pics Stoneymonster. Definitely better looking than mine and I would say I would be thrilled if mine looked like that. I guess there is some variance in the way they look.
  • Apr 14, 2013
    walla2
    In the past 2 weeks, I have developed 3 new issues:

    1. Pano roof only opens to 47% and sounds like its struggling.
    2. Rubber window seals inside the car are falling off (pics to follow). They look buckled and loose.
    3. Window leaks water at the rear passenger window.

    Plan: Call Tesla. See if they want to ranger the rest of my to do list and address these new issues now that I have purchased the anywhere plan. I'm guessing they will want the car in the service center due to how much will need to be taken care of and looked at.
  • Apr 14, 2013
    Doug_G
    The Signature Performance does not (we have the seats with the piping), but I think maybe the regular Signatures do.
  • Apr 14, 2013
    JohnEC
    Not feeling too good today. I believe I picked up a case of 12v battery failure (at least that's what I think it is). Went out to the garage this afternoon and noticed the charge port was red and the driver's window was down. I could get in the car since the window was down, but nothing worked. Of course I called service immediately, but they couldn't get the car to wake up either, so it will have to be flat bedded to Fremont tomorrow morning. To make matters worse, they don't have the Model S loaner system in place yet, so it will be back to driving a pos ICE from Enterprise until it's fixed. I hate getting my hands dirty!
  • Apr 15, 2013
    pete8314
    We've noticed some 'goop' running down the sunroof (pic below). Jack (Dallas SC Mgr) noticed it during a visit, and apparently it's an easy fix.

    sunroof1.jpg

    Additional issue is the front seal of the sunroof, this is apparently a known issue, and there's a fix, but it's brutal, apparently.

    sunroof seal.jpg

    finally, I finally took a couple of photos of the paint issues on my hood, still waiting on word of which bodyshop near me will be certified by Tesla to fix them, but I really think they're under the clear-coat, so no amount of polishing will get rid of them.

    hood2.jpg hood1.jpg
  • Apr 15, 2013
    mknox
    What is the "issue" with the seal? I can't really tell from this photo. Thanks.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    gg_got_a_tesla
    Over time, I've spotted two or three of these "nebulous clouds" on my car as well. Not too bummed about it as not much can be done about it.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    pete8314
    Half of the seal is flush, the other half isn't. Causes wind noise and a poor seal.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    kitk
    And that front seal is on back order. I've been given an estimate of a shipment coming in on Friday 4/19. In the meantime I have a lot of noise above 60 MPH. I had the same butyl smears across the pano roof as well which they fixed while installing my CF spoiler and rear facing seats last week.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    Banahogg
    I have the same goop and paint issues, but thankfully haven't had the sunroof seal issue.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    pete8314
    The goop is due to the 'Texas heat' apparently, which given the car hasn't been outside at anything above 80f, would probably apply to many locations! Looking forward to seeing what melts when it's 110 in the parking lot. :eek:
  • Apr 15, 2013
    wstuff
    There is a thread on this but sorry I can't find it, I had about 8 of these same thing, was absolutely positive it was under the clear coat, took it to Tesla and they had the detailer they use for car delivery prep polish them completely, I wouldn't have believed it could be done but my paint is flawless now.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    Banahogg
    I first saw mine about three weeks ago when the car hadn't seen any ambient temps higher than the low 70s, so I don't buy the heat explanation.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    ckessel
    I get it in Portland, OR and we've haven't hit 70 yet this year except maybe one day. Tired of cleaning the goop off the glass when I open the pano. It's not a big deal, but I don't want to go messing around with ripping out any of the sealant.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    shady
    I have the sunroof seal issue. I didn't get any noise above 60MPH to start with, but it suddenly started after a couple of weeks. That's when I noticed the seal wasn't flush (I'm unsure if it was flush to start with.

    My new problem is that while driving to work this morning, I was sitting in traffic and the dashboard display switched to the "Car Off" screen. I tried the pedal, and it was still working, however, I then got 4 warnings, ABS needs service, Traction control disabled, stability control disabled and regen disabled. Rebooting didn't help, so when I got to work I called Tesla and they pushed the update (installing now). They believe that will fix the problem and that there isn't a problem with ABS.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    scriptacus
    Laundry list of recent software issues. I've been on 4.2 since I got the car and everything worked fine (3k miles). Then over the last 2 weeks:

    1) Handles twice failed to extend when approaching the car as usual (my normal parking spot at work). Extended both times as I was reaching to push the handle.
    2) Handles failed to extend a few days later. Impatiently unlocked with the keyfob and the rear drivers side door popped open on it's own.
    2a) After this incident, hitting "Restore" on the drivers settings would not restore the steering wheel position. Reboot fixed it.
    3) This weekend bluetooth for both my iPhone and my wife's Android would not connect. Rebooted.
    3a) Reboot hung at the T logo, though systems were functioning and bluetooth was connected. Another reboot fixed it.
    4) Seatbelt warning chime got stuck on and nothing would turn it off, including shifting to park and powering off the car. Reboot fixed it.
    4a) Reboot came back with no 3G capability; full bars were displayed with no 3G logo and no connectivity for maps or Slacker. Another reboot fixed it.

    Finally got the 4.4 (1.31.11) and installed it last night... we'll see how things hold up.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    mknox
    Thanks. I think I'm okay since I don't hear any wind noise and we've had a ton of rain, and no leaks so far...
  • Apr 15, 2013
    gg_got_a_tesla
    Thanks, wstuff! I do have a detail job on my due bill (as I noticed some other minor scratches at delivery and the DS simply put a detail job as a due bill item); I'll avail of that a little later this spring.
  • Apr 15, 2013
    MikeK
    I've had that goop issue with the sunroof. This was my self-diagnosis: there was excess sealant/adhesive at some of the seams towards the rear of the sunroof opening. When the sunroof closed, the gasket that's attached to the rear edge of the sunroof would sit in that dollop of goop. Upon opening the roof, that gasket would bring some of the goop with it, spreading it back along the surface of the roof.

    My solution was to clean the goop off of my roof glass with an adhesive remover, and then I carefully cleaned up the excess goop in the two spots where the sunroof gasket would contact it. I mostly did this without the use of any chemical cleaner, just by sort of picking it away with a fingertip, because I wasn't sure how the materials would react to the cleaner. Caution: the stuff is messy and I sort of wish I had worn some nitrile gloves.

    The result is that I no longer have goop getting dragged along my roof, and the sunroof opens more freely as well (it always strained quite a bit right at the beginning as it tried to pull up out of the goop).

    The photo blow was taken before I did the cleaning, and it shows the excess goop (in the circle). The arrow points to the spot where the gasket used to sit down into the goop. You can see how it's pressed down, and there's a little bit of the stuff sort of pulled up and ragged from the roof's action.

    IMG_4100.jpg
  • Apr 16, 2013
    kevincwelch
    Mine's definitely pulling to the right now. Just started noticing this a week or so ago. Thought it might be tire pressure differences, but these were all the same.

    I've babied this car for all of its 830 miles over the past 2m. The steering wheel "T" is no longer plumb either.

    This and a one time door popping open have been the only issues for me.

    Sent via Tapatalk.
  • Apr 16, 2013
    AnOutsider
    Welcome to the club. 2 alignments and 1 rotation later and I can still change lanes without my hand on the wheel. Not sure what else to try at this point.
  • Apr 16, 2013
    mknox
    I've got about 1,600 miles in one month and have noticed from the beginning that the car doesn't feel as "stable" as I think it should on the freeway. It doesn't pull left or right, but seems to "wobble" back and forth in the lane as I drive. I can actually feel my head bob from side to side as I drive and I constantly have to input minor steering corrections. It's been suggested that an alignment would help here, but I haven't talked to Service about it yet...
  • Apr 16, 2013
    wycolo
    > I could get in the car since the window was down, [JohnEC]

    Hope you chose to jump in feet first rather than head first. :biggrin:

    From reports it seems the 12v batt failures seem to occur overnight, discovered in the morning. Thus I'm planning an actual use for my FRUNK, which I've never even opened since the guys at the Shop demo'ed nose-removal on pick up day. In goes a plastic battery box (with snap-on cover) plus battery cables going to existing 12v battery. The new cables will be connected directly to the existing terminals.

    Then on DEATH DAY I'll take the ATV battery from the kitchen (where it resides on constant trickle-charge) and connect it in the new box. It happens to be 3.25x6x6h but the box is much bigger so almost any lead acid battery will fit. Then of course disconnect one terminal of the existing battery and you are good to go. In my case it would be the 225 mile trip to the TM Shop for a fresh 12v batt. Yes, I *would* be motivated.
    --
  • Apr 16, 2013
    shady
    So far so good - my update to 4.4 cleared the warnings and they haven't come back.
  • Apr 16, 2013
    JohnEC
    Did a running dive head first! OK - just reached in and opened the door.

    Turns out, it was "the universal charger bad and the car reacted to the fault". Not quite sure exactly what that means, but will try to find out more when I pick the car up today. Will be very happy to get back to electric driving even tho it's only been a day.
  • Apr 16, 2013
    Super Gizmo
    I updated from 4.3 (.40) to 4,4 today and the update failed. There was an error message on the screen. Now the car can only be locked by turning "Auto Present Handles" off in the settings.
  • Apr 16, 2013
    steve841
    I had the same thing.... Had to drop by the SC to reinstall the update.
  • Apr 16, 2013
    Hank42
    Just curious - does this behavior occur when you are in the center lane of a highway, or in all lanes about the same?
    I ask because I had a (high performance) vehicle with the same behavior - had it aligned numerous times to spec. Turns out the problem really only occurred when I was in the middle lane of some local highways, and in fact it was caused by driving on the crest of the road(middle lane was the crest to allow for proper drainage to the left and right lanes. Driving on an absolutely flat road I had no problems.
    I later had my alignment re-done *out-of-spec* to allow the car to behave better on roads that were not flat at the cost of some tire wear.

    Just my $.02 of experience with a different vehicle - maybe a snack for thought?
  • Apr 17, 2013
    mknox
    For me, it doesn't really seem to matter what lane I'm in or what road I'm on. I have about an hour commute each way with about 75% freeway, and have been doing this drive for over 7 years across 4 different cars. I have a fairly good basis for comparison between how my last car (Cadillac CTS) and the Model S performs under pretty much the exact same conditions. The Model S definitely is not as "stable" (if that's the right word) as the CTS and has a noticeable "wobble" back and forth.

    The highway I'm on carries a lot of heavy truck traffic, and I had thought maybe the trucks were causing ruts that were just a bit wider than the Model S's track width, but I think that's a long shot. I've noticed it on other freeways as well.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    Todd Burch
    My car does not feel unstable at highway speeds, does not wobble, and tracks straight and true when not touching the wheel. Have Tesla look at it.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    wycolo
    > Driving on an absolutely flat road I had no problems. [Hank42]

    Cars have 'toe-in' to minimize the tendency to wander back & forth. Too much toe-in and you scrub rubber, but the steering is really stable -'no-hands' easy!

    NO toe-in, i.e. wheels pointing absolutely straight ahead results in the wandering back & forth. Like pulling a 4 wheel farm wagon. Assuming the S has equal track width front to back you can set up strings down both sides of the car and adjust for, say 1/8 inch toe-in on the front wheels. Test drive and adjust to personal taste. Helps to have some perfect road surfaces available nearby. Keep tabs on tire wear ('feathering') and adjust toe to minimize wear. 1/8 inch is usually a good starting point.
    --
  • Apr 17, 2013
    mknox
    Yeah, I intend to, but it's not horribly bad or anything... just noticeable. I may wait for the first "annual inspection" which, based on my mileage, will probably come at the 5 or 6 month point. I currently have about 2,700 miles after a bit over a month of ownership.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    Lloyd
    Try switching the steering to normal if you are using sport. I found that the "tracking" of groves was much better NOT using the sport mode. See if anyone else sees this.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    neroden
    We've had two occasions of torrential downpour rain lately. The wipers DO NOT go fast enough. It's actually dangerous; I had to slow down to 20 mph on 50 mph roads because of the reduced visibility due to the ineffective wipers. I called Tesla and tried to impress upon them the importance of this. We'll see.

    - - - Updated - - -

    For reference, yes, perforated leather was a Signature thing. It's one of several reasons I cancelled my Sig order, but ended up getting a Standard.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    scriptacus
    You should have your tires rotated at ~6,250 miles (I believe it's free), you could get it checked out then.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    wycolo
    > The wipers DO NOT go fast enough. [neroden]

    Finally driving in rain! Yes, needed more wipes that it chose to deliver at that moment so simply turned wipers OFF and then back ON again. This produces an immediate WIPE. Hey, it works. Have yet to be in a downpour/deluge however. Maybe this summer I'll discover that FAST is just not fast enough.

    The moisture detector works fine but eventually it just dies due to drying out or whatever. Again, I turn OFF and then back ON. Human dominates machine!!

    Btw, the Tesla wiper action itself is superb.
    --
  • Apr 17, 2013
    FlasherZ
    I can't say that I've had these problems. I live in "hellish downpour land" here, and the fast speed was enough, and the rain sensors seem to work well.

    A tip for those of you who haven't figured it out yet: there are two detents when you push the stalk in -- the first is a "mist" type application that forces a wipe, the second activates the washer.

    In fact, if there is one complaint I have, it's that the washer doesn't work worth a damn, it only squirts up 1/3 the way onto the windshield. It's likely adjustable but I haven't futzed with it enough yet.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    neroden
    For some information, this is "clouds burst and fall on you" rain such that the storm sewers on some streets are overflowing and spilling out into the street.

    It's been happening fairly often in recent years around here. There's a reason most cars' wipers have a FAST speed which is actually fast, rather than the leisurely speed at which the Model S wipers go even on top speed. It's not good to get caught in a torrential downpour, but you can't always pull over and wait half an hour for it to end; we need wipers which can handle it. It's a must-fix because it's a safety issue.

    This really should be pretty easy to fix. Absolute worst case: new wiper motors, beefier power cables to them, and revised software. Best case, some subset of that. I consider this a warranty issue, as most cars provide tolerable visibility in extremely heavy rain, and the Model S does not.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Obviously not sufficiently hellish. Since these torrential downpours started happening around 5 years ago, I've had to widen my drainage around my house to prevent flash flooding of my patio. Does that give you a picture of what I'm talking about?
  • Apr 17, 2013
    mknox
    I thought it was actually a tiny bit better in Sport, but prefer Normal on surface streets. I kinda wish Tesla would implement a speed-sensitive feature to the steering effort (as well as to the audio level of the sound system).
  • Apr 17, 2013
    Tommy
    Setting the wiper speed issue aside, at what speed do you consider a safe speed to drive in a torrential downpour. Personally I wouldn't feel it safe anything above 20 mph no matter what the road speed was posted at. I do understand your concern; certainly better to have faster wiper speed than needed vs. speed not fast enough.
  • Apr 17, 2013
    neroden
    Fast enough to avoid getting rear-ended by the lunatics behind me. :) I breathed a sigh of relief when I got to the bit with a hill-climbing lane and could let them pass me.

    In this case, 30 mph. If I didn't have lunatics behind me, I'd happily go at 20 mph.

  • Apr 17, 2013
    jomo25
    Thought I read that the washer nozzles are adjustable using a pin or something. It was noted somewhere in a thread and it's referenced in the Google Docs Delivery checklist.
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