Jan 27, 2013
ggr Hmm, yes, actually. Lots and lots of various kinds. I don't recall that thread, though. Thanks for mentioning it, here it is: an important note about the key fob and RF interference.
Yes, the top of Mt Soledad does look a bit like that...�
Jan 27, 2013
kishdude As software developer, I admit that I really don't understand Tesla's update policy. I can understand that you want to beta test a release on a small sample of cars to make sure there are no disasters, but once you are comfortable, why would you not roll out the latest update to everyone all at once? I don't understand the 200 cars a day thing and it seems the people with the oldest version of the firmware are updated last. Maybe there is some difference between the signature cars and the production that makes them harder to update?
But it is interesting to me that the car OS can be crashed and the key FOB wont work. What happens if this happens and the car is not in cell range?�
Jan 27, 2013
Lloyd Yes, I meant Tune in.
Sorry!:redface:�
Jan 27, 2013
jerry33 Apparently they tried that and overloaded their local cell so nothing got out. My expectation is that this won't be a problem when they enable the WiFi on the cars.�
Jan 27, 2013
znino So far i have only had minor technical glitches that either go away on their own or with a screen reset. The past two days, however, have seen two issues creep up. First, my rear right door handle will no longer go in. It is stuck in the open position with the LED on. I cannot pull on it to open the door either. I ended up trying to put some physical pressure to push it in but that only pushed it in. It is still non-responsive to any unlocking or locking and the LED stays on, even now that i physically pushed it in (I can see the light is on). So now it is stuck in the closed position.
Anything issue (has happened 4 times in 2 days) is that I put the car in reverse and start reversing at slow speed and at some point (has happened before reversing and also during my reverse when I was almost stopped) the car puts itself into PARK on its own. Very disconcerting. Anyone else ever notice this? I thought I might be crazy at first or somehow accidentally hit the gear lever but tonight I had someone with me in the car and clearly we were reversing. I stopped to adjust speed as I was getting close to my garage back wall and the car went into PARK.�
Jan 27, 2013
jomo25 Did you lift your butt up? This has happened to others, at low speed, reversing, lift your butt up, the sensor thinks you have left the car, and it goes into park.�
Jan 27, 2013
mrjohnlnguyen Picked up my 60v on Friday from the factory and toured and drove it back to OC hitting all the superchargers except Space X. Great ride but horrible weather so I used the defrostters, well there in lies the first mech problem. It appears that the heater was programmed to strong so it literally burned both side mirrors and rear view mirror, it's almost dark brown and totally unusable. Also did the update and now the drivers door doesn't get any power. The other doors open and light turns on except the driver...pretty strange so guess I'm getting all new mirrors and software fix. Although this isn't to be expected in a new car that cost 90K I wasn't totally surprised nor disappointed with the car at all. I have a Range Rover sport & 2006 Lexus GS430 and still have no buyers regret! I went from 4.0 to 4.1 FYI.�
Jan 27, 2013
znino yes, after posting i did more research and saw those posts. I went back out to do tests and I can confirm this happens if you are in reverse, with seat belt off and lift yourself a bit off the seat to reverse, the car shifts into N and then immediately into P. Seems to happen more often if there is a little bit of a sudden forward motion during the reversing (such as the tires hitting a small bump in the road or garage sill and you have no real rear momentum). I am on Version 4.2 so if they need to tweak it, this has still not been done in the latest version. Maybe it is just a simple security measure with the car thinking someone has jumped out of the car but a lot of people lift their weight to see being them when reversing.�
Jan 27, 2013
FredTMC Thanks for this. I'm getting my 60 around the end of Feb. I'm very curious about how much battery was used between Harris and Tejon Ranch (and how fast you drove).�
Jan 27, 2013
znino Here is another weird behavior for all your shelock holmes out there.... can anyone offer any kind of explanation other than aliens?
Wife drives to coffee shop with car. Walks away from car into coffee shop and visually confirms handles going flush and lights flashing indicating locking.
She is inside coffee shop about 15m from car's front hood.
5 minutes later My son gets off the bus (scheduled to meet her there) and walks to car.
As he gets close, the handles present and he gets into the car. This whole time my wife is standing in the coffee shop and witnesses this happening as well.
It is impossible that my son somehow triggered the opening. It has to be coincidence but why would it suddenly open with her 15m away and after 5 min? She was stationary. It can't walk-up open from that distance can it? It would be the equivalent of leaving the fob 15m away from the car at night and the car deciding someone was coming and close enough! Impossible! And no, my son did NOT have a FOB on him!�
Jan 27, 2013
mrjohnlnguyen So from The Factory to Gilroy is the easiest, 50 miles. The super charger is next to the Sony Store/ In n Out, had lunch there( 4 chargers ) I actually pulled up and there was anothe Model S charging, pretty cool. Didnt chage to max range because your well within the 180 miles. Next stop was Harris ranch, only 1 super charger and a slower stage 2 so hopefully you won't have to wait. I did set to max range and took about 30 miles. Next was Lebec..tracking about 65-70 we arrived with 10 miles! This charger is on the far left when you exit, next to the Panda Express, can't miss it. We had dinner across the street at the Iron Skillet, what a dump! I should have gone to Panda but its a resturant so you can chill. My suggestion eat at Panda and go over for a cup of coffee. 40-45 min later we where on the road and made it to Irvine with 60 miles to spare and that was traveling 70-80. Didn't need to stop off at Space X although I should have but I was tired. We started the tour at 9:30-11:30 which was very cool and worth doing. I estimate that it took a solid 8 hours but it was an adventure and FREE! I figured the gas savings was spent on snacks at the stops ha ha. Either way it was fun and LOVE the car. Took it to Fashion Island and used the Tesla's charging after going on a ride. You'll find that you will tend to take the long way home so you can enjoy the ride, best if luck and hope this helps!�
Jan 27, 2013
Ben W This could just be the Nighttime Mode for the mirrors to reduce glare. I believe there's an LCD panel embedded in each mirror which gives it the dark-brown appearance when this is active.�
Jan 27, 2013
FredTMC thanks! I'm in San Clemente. Looking forward to getting the car and making this same trip. Enjoy the car�
Jan 28, 2013
MikeK This seems like broken behavior to me. Wouldn't it make more sense to only trigger the park mode if the door is also open?�
Jan 28, 2013
ElSupreme I have a double image coming from my drivers rear view mirror. I looked online apparently this is when the electrochromatic oil leaks out of the mirror. So should be a relatively easy fix. It is a real problem at night when I get 2 pairs of headlights instead of 1. Also a problem when trying to figure out if that Crown Vic/Charger behind you is the po-po or just some guys car.�
Jan 28, 2013
mrjohnlnguyen Cars in the shop, the mirrors crystallized and they said they had never seen it before. Got a hot Chevy Cruze now ha ha.
- - - Updated - - -
Here's a link to the photos and charging station, FYI the chargers at Lebec are actually on the far right NOT the left.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=FE9533E1D7FD124F!1050�
Jan 28, 2013
Pjster here is a link to a article which very well explains and lists most of the problems... I do hope that someone gives this to Tesla so that they can fix these problems. Most of these should be easy to deal with!
Tesla Model S: Glitches, Quirks, and Peccadilloes Roundup�
Jan 28, 2013
Todd Burch Imagine you're in the driver's seat with no seat belt on, and you're in reverse. Now suppose you accidentally press the accelerator somewhat firmly thinking it's the brake (or you hit a bump and your foot pushes down on the accelerator). What happens? The car surges backward, and you fly out of the seat. Now you're in a potentially very dangerous, out-of-control situation.
In my mind, that's a good safety feature and I don't see it as needing a tweak.
My riding lawnmower shuts off when the blade's engaged and the weight comes off the seat. Sometimes, when I go over bumps which push me up out of the seat, it causes the engine to sputter. Extremely minor nuisance, yet I still appreciate the safety feature.
- - - Updated - - -
See my explanation above. If you're reading this, I assume you already have. In short, it's not for someone flying out the driver's door, but flying forward out of your seat in case you press the wrong pedal!�
Jan 28, 2013
JRP3 One of my first mods on a new mower is to disable all that safety crap as I find it very annoying. Sounds as if the S is overly sensitive in this case.�
Jan 28, 2013
Majerus I do this as well.�
Jan 28, 2013
ggr An update. The tech when he remote unlocked the car said that he'd pushed an update. But when I was contacted today, about 24 hours later, there was still no update. Anyway, this caused a bit of a flurry of activity, because Tesla seemed to think that the update had happened! Anyway, I moved the car to the top of our parking structure and they pushed it again and it finally updated to .42. It took somewhat more than an hour... I was stuck in a meeting so I don't know exactly.
Those still on 1.15.14 might want to check what Tesla thinks they are on.�
Jan 29, 2013
fizzazle
You don't have to do it "manually". Just press the button to open and then press the button again at desired height and it will stop. You are correct about then holding down the button to set that as your new height
how do u open the trunk manually? I guess I just never tried....�
Jan 29, 2013
NigelM Button in the center under the chrome strip on the hatch.�
Jan 29, 2013
aviators99 I got 4.2 over the weekend, and now I'm having all sorts of problems all of a sudden. The rear driver-side door handle isn't always coming out with the rest, my door popped open while I was walking away from the car, I keep hearing the charge port clicking when it's not plugged in and I'm walking away from the car....
:-(�
Jan 29, 2013
neroden Is it confirmed that this only happens with the seatbelt off? In that case it's not a problem for me. I have been known to lift my butt off the seat when reversing, but I don't take my seatbelt off. (I'm tiny; the seatbelt is never *that* snug around me.)
- - - Updated - - -
Honestly, I'm not sure they're comfortable with any of their releases yet. :-/�
Jan 29, 2013
dtich i'd try a soft reset of both systems and see if that doesn't clear things up. sounds like a little corruption.�
Jan 29, 2013
MikeK Given the experiences reported here, even if that was the intention of this behavior, it seems clear that it is causing other, false alarm behavior much more often than it is saving somebody from a rather unusual/unlikely scenario.�
Jan 29, 2013
William3 Since getting firmware 4.2 I sometimes get this bug where the charge port door will pop open when I press on the brake pedal to start the car.
Sucks. I have to get out of the car, go close the charge port door, then get back in the car. Luckily doesn't happen every time, probably around 10% of the time or so.�
Jan 30, 2013
Al Sherman Different strokes I guess. I periodically stand up out of the seat on my tractor to make sure the PTO shuts down. :smile:�
Jan 30, 2013
znino Wanted to add a design flaw that I have not seen reported yet. It has to do with the rear seat seatbelts. The belts come out from a roller. The roller mechanism is placed in such a way that if you pull the seatbelt in a direction perpendicular to the roller the seat belt comes out smoothly. Unfortunately, the way it is positioned, this means pulling the belt almost against the seat and almost horizontally. When you are sitting down this is not a natural motion and you want to pull away from the pillar and a little towards the floor so that you can bring the belt across your chest (not across your head). Pulling it in the direction it should be pulled causes excess friction between the belt and the edge of the rolling mechanism and this will certainly fray the belt over time (not to mention makes it very hard to pull). This is hard to explain in words but if you sit in the back and try to put on a belt with a natural motion, you will see there is resistance.�
Jan 30, 2013
teslasguy Not sure if this is the best place to post this, so please advise if not.
I have the Blue exterior P85 with paint armor.
One thing that has bugged the heck out of me since I got it (mid-Dec.) is that it looks like there are two different paint jobs on the hood.
In most lighting it is very noticeable where the hood is covered with the paint armor and and where it isn't.
The area covered by the paint armor is very shiny/glossy. The rest of the hood has a very dull look in comparison.
A lot of people have noticed it and commented. As I recall there has been a lot of discussion about the paint armor on here and whether the edge was very noticeable, and as I recall most people seemed to think it is most visible on the white cars, but less so on the dark ones. The edge of the armor on the hood is very noticeable, but that doesn't bother me nearly as much as that the paint color mismatch seems so apparent.
I even showed it to my service tech and he agreed, but offered no solution. I don't notice such appearance distinction with any of the other armored locations on the car.
Yesterday I stopped by a high end body repair shop and they showed me a black Porsche that they had just done extensive front end repair to and had also replaced the clear bra (armor) to the front of the hood.
It was really difficult to even see the armor at all. I saw NO difference in the color appearance of the paint under the armor vs. the rest of the hood. It really looked completely natural unless you looked REALLY close and then you could see the edging. I'm especially curious if others with the dark blue paint and paint armor are experiencing this issue.�
Jan 30, 2013
dsm363 I had the entire hood redone right after I got the car with the same film on the rest of the car (Avery Nano Fusion film) and it looks nice. Cost about $500 though.�
Jan 30, 2013
4sevens.com I've noticed the same thing.... I'm thinking about getting some kind of clear leading edge tape or teflon tape and stick it to the edge where it's catching.... they should have caught that...�
Jan 30, 2013
znino Indeed they should have. If the belts get frayed from the rubbing they better consider that a no charge fix regardless of warranty because its clearly poorly designed.�
Jan 30, 2013
wshepherd How to adjust headlight height:
Pop off the long black plastic pieces on either side of the frunk (they just lift off - push down on the rubber circles on either side to get them through the holes). They need to be pulled away from the frunk as to the side of the car they have a lip that goes under the frunk edge. (Trust me, if I can do this as mechanically uninclined as I am, so can you). Important: leave them off until you're fully satisfied with your headlight height, including through a test drive.
Underneath that, about a third of the way up the hood on both sides of the car (near the outer edge, under the lip), is a white plastic socket that is designed for a 6mm allen wrench. Insert wrench and turn - one way aims the headlight up (I forget which), the other goes down. You probably want to turn them the same amount on each side, so keep track of it.
I found it very hard while parked to get the headlight height exactly right (small variations in height get magnified with distance and most people - including the Tesla service center in my experience - don't have a perfectly level garage floor). I found the best option was to iterate changing the height with a brief test drive until I was satisfied.
When done, pop the two side pieces back on - putting the lip under the edge of the side of the frunk first and then gently but firmly pushing down on the plastic pieces to lock them in. You need to bend and pull the rubber circle through the hole (reverse of what you did to get them off).
QED�
Jan 30, 2013
Ben W I had this happen about a year ago with the driver-side seatbelt on my Roadster; it was abraded over time by rough contact with the hard plastic side well, and once the tear got started, it ripped very quickly. Tesla replaced it under warranty. Surprising they didn't improve this design for the Model S.
�
Jan 30, 2013
4sevens.com yikes!!�
Jan 30, 2013
Todd Burch Driving home today, I was going a steady 40 mph or so and suddenly got a "Car Needs Service, Power reduced" warning. (I'm at 2000 miles on the odometer). Car drove normally, except I had maybe 10% of normal power. Although a power limit dashed line was drawn at about 200 kW, it took about 15 seconds (flooring it)--ok, maybe 10--to get from 0 to 30 mph....clearly way less than 200 kW was available. (I happened to be at the front at a stoplight and was a bit embarassed to accelerate so slowly!)
I drove another 5 minutes to my wife's cousin's house (where I was going to pick up my son) and parked. Immediately called roadside assistance. They pulled my log and identified a fault: Drive inverter. Asked me to reboot the touchscreen. No joy. Asked me to reboot the console. No joy--fault remained. Tesla contacted the Rockville, MD service center and told me I'd hear back momentarily. 10 minutes later, the service center called. They had pulled the logs and said the engineering team in CA is reviewing the data. They advised not driving the car, and initiated flatbed towing services. (Tesla DID offer a rental, which I declined as I have another car I can drive).
45 minutes later, the flatbed driver called and said he'd arrive within minutes. The plan was to tow my car back to my house (10 minutes away), then have a Ranger look at it tomorrow morning. Since the tow truck driver was close--and knowing the car was driveable--I went out to move the car from the driveway to the side of the residential street so it would be easier to load onto the flatbed. And what do you know--no fault. Car seemed to drive perfectly normally, although I didn't try gunning it to see if I had full power back. Roadside assistance advised that, even though the fault was gone, for safety it would be best to tow it home anyway.
Loaded the car onto the flatbed and took it home, where I drove it under it's own power into the garage. Again, car seemed perfectly normal.
I expect to hear back from Tesla in the morning. Either it was a bug/false positive (an unnerving one at that), or I really have an inverter issue. If the former, hopefully they can fix it via software. If the latter, the Ranger will come in the morning to fix, and if needed take it up to the Rockville service center for repair.
A few things:
1. Boo. I'm going to miss driving this car for a day or two!
2. Tesla was pretty good and responsive in helping. I was home within about 2 hours of the initial fault.
3. This has shaken my confidence in the drivetrain, although I suspect this is just an early production glitch and expect these sorts of kinks to be worked out. It's what I signed on for as an early reservation holder.
4. I thought it was so damn cool that Tesla was pulling logs and CA engineers were diagnosing the problem while I was still waiting for a flatbed. Totally cool.
5. The tow truck driver was totally impressed by the cockpit. He took pictures with his smartphone of the car loaded on the truck, and the touchscreen.
I'll report back what I find out tomorrow. Hopefully this is my one major drivetrain issue and it's smooth sailing from here on!�
Jan 31, 2013
Suzieq Can't afford too many reports like this. Many people won't want to leave for work two hours early in the Model S just to make sure they get there. Doctors, airline pilots, other security related jobs...�
Jan 31, 2013
Todd Burch Not sure I understand--it sounds as if you're implying that no other cars ever have mechanical issues?�
Jan 31, 2013
mnx I'm not sure I'd tolerate a 2 week old car needing a tow if it weren't a Tesla. I've just run into my first issue on a newish car with my BMW @ > 25,000 miles. The urea pump quit working and needs to be replaced. Fortunately I could drive it for 1600km before it would leave me stranded.�
Jan 31, 2013
efusco guarantee there have been plenty of BMWs that had to be towed in the first 2 weeks. It happens, the concern is the frequency for a given sample.�
Jan 31, 2013
mnx I totally agree.�
Jan 31, 2013
FlasherZ I've had a new car quit on me just 15 miles out of the dealer's lot.
I've had a rebuilt engine throw a rod just 2 miles from the shop.
It happens.
�
Jan 31, 2013
Lloyd Yep, had a turbocharger blow an oil seal and throw HUGE amounts of smoke and oil out the exhaust. Two weeks old also. It took six weeks for them to warrenty the turbocharger and damaged catalytic converter.�
Jan 31, 2013
Todd Burch From what I hear, I am the first or among the first to have an inverter fault on the Model S. (Still haven't heard if it's real or just a glitch). Anyone else have this problem, or am I the lucky one?�
Jan 31, 2013
Suzieq No question... stuff happens. But consumers have gotten used to extremely reliable cars. My point is that the Lexus, Acuras and Cadillacs of the world don't have to worry about their reputation. It's based on lots of cars, Lots of experiences... Tesla does not have that luxury, and this is a crucial time. Extra investments in QC will save them a lot- negative PR is expensive to overcome. Anyway we are off topic.�
Jan 31, 2013
kinddog ya burn, Suzieq, YA BUUURRRRNNNNNN!!!!!!
- - - Updated - - -
a great (and correct) attitude to take, Todd.
thanks for all the details of your experience. and the roadside assistance is amazing if it's as you described. wow.
your inconvenience will be a benefit to all those who follow you, as the Tesla teams learns from this incident. thanks for the sacrifice and hope you get back on the road soon!�
Jan 31, 2013
swegman I must be the odd person because I have not had a car break down since 1985. That car was a Corvette, and it turned out that the injectors were getting clogged from fuel deposits. Switching to Mobil high detergent gas eliminated the problem. Since then, I've had an Acura, two Audis, countless Lexus and MB, and those cars never broke. However, I usually got rid of the car for a new car when the odometer would read between 35K and 45K. I do have a 2005 Prius with 102K miles on it (love the car, and it is the first car I have owned in my life with more than 100K miles on it), and the only problems I had with it was a burnt out rear bulb, and a sensor for detecting the position of the HID headlights. I will be upset if the Tesla leaves me stranded.
BTW, my wife took delivery of a 2013 Toyota Avalon hybrid yesterday. If the Tesla breaks (and her car does not), she will not let me live it down.�
Jan 31, 2013
Suzieq No, I believe your experience is more typical of most car owners and thus my comments. Reliability is the number one value that most consumers want in a vehicle. If arriving on time is critical to your livelihood, then you won't consider a vehicle that's not perceived as reliable.�
Jan 31, 2013
SUN-day Driver I remember reading about someone else (can't remember who it was) who had the reduced power issue (while demoing the car to friends!) but like yours it soon went away. So it seems to not be such an isolated incident.�
Jan 31, 2013
AnOutsider I also had the issue. Pulling over and rebooting fixed it. Never even called Tesla since I'd seen it discussed here.�
Jan 31, 2013
GeekGirls Some consumers, certainly. Probably even most. If it was the number one characteristic for everyone, though, there would have been far fewer Jaguars sold during their temperamental years.
Agreed. I suspect most of Tesla's early adopters know full well that they're on the cutting edge with a vehicle that is bound to have a few quirks initially. Most people who absolutely rely on their car will avoid the first model year after a redesign, never mind a brand new model, and they should absolutely avoid a fledgling manufacturer. In the long run, though, I think there is every reason to believe that the simpler design of the Model S will be more reliable. We bought our Model S because we believe in the promise of the technology, not because we believe it's fully mature.
One thing to keep in mind is that Tesla appears to have very conservative monitoring of all of the car's systems. The "tire pressure system need service" message appears to indicate that it has observed a situation it didn't expect (tire pressure increasing over time while the car is in motion) and is simply playing it safe. Likewise, I've received an air suspension warning that has been confirmed by Tesla to reflect an abundance of caution, not an actual problem. As they understand what situations are and are not issues in practice I'm sure they'll fine tune the warnings.�
Feb 1, 2013
JRP3 Hopefully, though to some of us the S is rather over complicated in many ways, offsetting the benefits that come with the simplicity of electric drive. I realize what Elon is trying to do by including cutting edge technology and gee wiz features but in a way it's just asking for trouble in a first of it's type vehicle. The fact that it's going as well as it is speaks volumes about the work that they've put into it, and hopefully they'll get most of the issues worked out quickly.�
Feb 1, 2013
Suzieq Most consumers, definitely. I think if you compare the number of Jaguars and other enthusiast (not necessarily reliable) cars to the number of Lexus, Infinitis, Acuras, Cadillacs, Toyotas, Hondas etc etc etc you won't be surprised to find that the great majority of automobile users are interested primarily in reliable and safe transportation from point A to point B. Everything else, comfort, cost, coolness, and performance, is secondary.
If Tesla is to become the world changer that we all want it to be, reliability must be a non-issue. Careful attention to this will make sure that they succeed.
I am, like you, a huge fan of Elon and his products. But I am not looking at the world through Model S colored glasses... (yes I did order a red S...;-))�
Feb 1, 2013
Todd Burch One of the cool things about Tesla--and that gives them a long-term advantages over other automakers--is that they are very vertically integrated and can iterate quickly. As I said before, I'm still not sure if this is a software or hardware issue (just pinged the service center to see if they know yet), but this problem appears to be very rare, and not debilitating. In fact, it sounds like one or two other people had it happen, but they kept on driving. I just took the more conservative route of calling roadside assistance.
The jury is still way out on the Model S reliability--but I think it's still too early to be making drivetrain reliability conclusions at this point in the game. The 12V battery issue when the cars first came out appeared to be a major issue. Cars were not starting. Turns out it was firmware related--it was corrected in a matter of weeks, and that problem's now gone.
I suspect this will be a similar story.
In all honesty, I think the Model S could have gone through another 6 months of refinement and testing before it went to market. But I also realize that a) they had to start selling cars, b) most issues can be fixed in software, and b) any hardware issues that crop up will be taken care of quickly by Tesla. So I'm not worried.
As a mechanical engineer, I find it nearly impossible to believe that (after the initial growing pains are past us) the Model S drivetrain will be less reliable than any ICE.�
Feb 1, 2013
dtich it will be much more reliable. no doubt. on the basis of moving parts and possible faults alone. we're doing the shake out now. it's gonna be fire and forget very shortly. imo.�
Feb 1, 2013
joefee totally agree on both counts....tsla had to get the car out to save the company & it was 6 months too early. But would you have wanted to wait?�
Feb 1, 2013
dlmorgan999 Not me! I'm more than willing to deal with a few bumps, in order to get the car earlier. :smile:�
Feb 1, 2013
znino Finally had my car washed today after a few weeks of winter grime. Boy did it need it. I noticed something for the first time today (really wondering why I wouldn't have noticed it before because now it is bugging me and I totally see it all the time). If I look through the windshield at the place just above where it meets the dash (so the lowest part of the glass that you can see through to the road) I notice that the image is distorted. If I look at the lines on the road, for example, at that angle (my eye looking through the windshield at its very bottom) the lines curve and are distorted (kind of as if the glass there is not flat but curved). I would love to know if anyone else has noticed this or if this is just a defect in my windshield. It is quite freaky when you look at the road at that angle (granted you normally look straight ahead but I have never noticed this on another car). I am only 5'9". someone shorter might not notice it since they will be looking more straight out but the taller you are the more you would notice it. I would expect distortion where the glass curves a lot but not really in line with the normal field of view looking just beyond the car's body.
I have attached a 10 second clip showing what I mean. You can see the horizontal metal bar on my garage door getting distorted as I move the camera around (simulating my head moving). When i drive and the lane lines are going by they distort at the bottom of the windshield. Very strange.
�
Feb 1, 2013
ckessel Yep, mine too. Noticed it right away when I got my car, but it doesn't bother me so I never thought about it much.�
Feb 1, 2013
znino I do not know how i didnt notice it before. Now that i have it's all I can see! Argh!�
Feb 1, 2013
Stoneymonster Left front door speaker died today. Standard audio so I'm down to six�
Feb 1, 2013
Todd Burch This I believe is on everyone's windshield. I believe the glass tapers toward the bottom, which is causing the distortion (it's not a uniform thickness). Certainly not a defect. I don't notice it unless I'm really looking at it. It's far enough toward the extreme bottom of the windshield that it doesn't affect visibility in any way.�
Feb 1, 2013
brianman It did. In the hands of Founder and Signature owners.
Roughly June through December.�
Feb 1, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla Dare I say that the quality has gone up a notch in the new year after the mad rush in December?! There, I've surely jinxed it for myself�
Feb 1, 2013
Bound466 At the Tejon Ranch supercharger today, I came back to my car to leave, and the driver door was stuck. The rear driver-side door opened no problem. I lowered the windows down via the FOB, and then tried to open the driver door again from the outside. It opened!!
I encountered the problem a couple more times after I got home.
Then later tonight I noticed something. The door handles all light up at night, but the driver door was not lighting up. It extends normally, and retracts normally, but wasn't lighting up. So I think there is a short or a wire loose that supplies power to the door for the LED light and the sensor that allows it to open.
I will call service tomorrow, and may even bring it in (I was going to be close to the area anyway).
BTW: I am so loving and enjoying this car. These little things are just part of the package - such a pleasure being on this side of the future. Love it!!!�
Feb 2, 2013
yobigd20 Yes, a big thank you from rest of us for being the gunniea pigs and beta testing it and getting all the bugs out for us. lol�
Feb 2, 2013
STARR X I received my Model S on Monday, January 21 and loved it for the week! That weekend, I got the message to upgrade from 4.1 to 4.2 which I did. I am only charging at work as do not have a 220/40 at home yet. So on the following Monday, I go to plug in the car at work and the circle of light goes from blue to green to flashing green and 10 seconds later, solid red. On the mobile charging cable itself, I got two flashing red lights. Without going into all the trouble shooting details that was tried, my car is currently sitting in the Tesla service center waiting for a new charger as this is what they think is the problem. I noted the upgrade from 4.1 to 4.2 above because that is the only thing that changed during the week I had the car. But I also know I charged the car at work once or twice after the software update before that Monday morning fail. Needless to say I am very bummed as I am without my car and was told the charger is on back order. Has anyone else had a charger fail? Could 4.2 be the problem?�
Feb 2, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla That's a real bummer, STARR X. But, this does sound like genuine hardware failure and the software update timing is probably coincidental. In any case, I don't think you should accept the "back order" bit lightly; we are not talking about missing chrome trim on the UMC here! There are chargers being installed in cars on the assembly line in Fremont and I'd argue that Tesla should prioritize an active (and now 'disenfranchised') owner over a new, yet-to-be-delivered car and overnight a charger to your designated service center.�
Feb 2, 2013
Todd Burch 6 MORE months.�
Feb 2, 2013
kcveins Its called company survival - I don't think that they would be able to financially survive if they prolonged deliveries for smaller tweeks - and they still would not have been able to find all the flaws...�
Feb 3, 2013
brianman Was, and is, a pleasure.�
Feb 3, 2013
ckessel Well, disturbing thing today. Makes me wonder how often it happens. I backed my car out of the garage to move some stuff around, pulled back in and walked away like I always do. The music was going still, which was odd since usually when I close the door it stops. So I clicked the fob, the handles retracted and I thought the music stopped.
I went upstairs about my business. My wife comes how about 30 minutes later and comes upstairs and says "Did you know the music is on in your car?"
Uh, no, I didn't. It shouldn't be doing that. Makes me wonder how often the radio is playing 9 hours straight while I'm parked at work...�
Feb 3, 2013
goaliemanshark This happened to me with 4.1. Do you have 4.2?�
Feb 3, 2013
Gjacobs Love my car. But last week the windshield cracked. San Diego Tesla service center responded quickly and the windshield was replaced under warranty. Drove it home and a couple of hours later went to later meeting. On the way I heard a loud bang and now the left rear passenger window will not stay up.�
Feb 3, 2013
Todd Burch Are you certain that all doors were completely closed?�
Feb 3, 2013
efusco On 4.2, checked mine, definately locked.�
Feb 3, 2013
ckessel Yep. And the most recent 4.2.�
Feb 3, 2013
William3 Thank you so much for this. This procedure worked perfectly and was easy to do. One thing you need to know, though, is that when the car lowers the ride height to the lowest setting (such as at freeway speeds) it seems to lower the rear more than it lowers the front. This results in your headlights aiming higher than they do when you are at the "standard" suspension setting. So it is best to set your suspension to the lowest setting when aiming your headlights. Design flaw for sure, but it is what it is. So set your car to the lowest suspension setting, measure how high off the ground your headlight bulb is (mine was 26.5 inches from the ground to the center of the bulb) then use a wall or yardstick that is 25 feet ahead of the car, and the top of the projected light should be about an inch lower that your headlight bulb. So I set mine to 25.5 inches high (measured 25 feet ahead of the car). You guys can go slightly higher or lower based on your personal preference, but please don't just leave it the way it is from the factory. I'd hate for the general public to hate all these Tesla jerks who drive around blinding them all the time on the freeway.
Sad thing is, when my car was in for service, I told them that the headlights were too high, and when the car lowers they get even higher. The told me that I was wrong on both counts. Clearly they didn't even check. They are super swamped right now, but that's no excuse for lying to me. Anyway, the tape measure doesn't lie. Easy to fix yourself -- thanks to wshepherd.�
Feb 3, 2013
NigelM I don't think it does. When the car raises or lowers it adjusts the rear suspension first and then the front and that's why you might get the impression that the front is higher. Having the front higher than the back would destroy airflow over the car and that would consequently impact range.�
Feb 3, 2013
pete8314 Don't the lights auto adjust anyway? I thought that was mandatory on Xenon lights? I get if they're generally out of alignment and need the baseline reset, but suspension changes or car loading shouldn't make a difference. At least that been true of my last 9 or 10 cars that have had Xenon lights.
Do the Model S Xenons do the little dance on power up? That's the alignment routine for most cars.�
Feb 3, 2013
William3 Perhaps it is a defect with my individual car. I don't know. If I set my suspension to "standard", shine my headlights on a wall that is 30 feet away, make a mark on the wall where the top of the beam is, then lower the suspension to the lowest setting, wait for the car to settle, then compare where the headlight is now shining, it will be shining slightly higher on the wall with the suspension on the lower setting. This is either a design flaw or a defect with my individual car. If the light were to shine in the same spot then it would still be a problem, as ideally it needs to lower the same amount as the headlight bulb is lowering. Legally your headlight needs to shine every-so-slightly downhill. In a perfect world this needs to be true at each suspension setting, but I'm really only concerned about the lowest setting because that's really the only time it is going to piss off other drivers (freeway setting).
Many of the Model S cars are coming out of the factory with the headlights aimed wrong. Many owners have posted about being "flashed" by other drivers, not just me.
Here's the bottom line:
If you're on the freeway and your headlights are high enough to hit the rear window of the car in front of you then you should adjust your headlights lower.�
Feb 3, 2013
scriptacus Wouldn't the front of the car be pushed down by wind resistance at the speed where the low suspension setting kicks in? If so it seems plausible that the stationary position would have the front slightly higher than the rear, rather than being a design flaw or individual car issue.�
Feb 3, 2013
William3 I suppose that might be possible. I don't know.
Regardless, in actual driving, if your lights are shining into the rear window of the car in front of you then you should go get your headlights aimed correctly (just as a common courtesy to other drivers). wshepherd mentioned in his how-to post that you'll do a few rounds of tweaking then road test, tweaking then road test, tweaking then road test, etc... I found this to be the case. You can't 100% trust your first adjustment because you don't know that the road your car is parked on is 100% perfectly flat, you don't know if the suspension is completely settled, you don't know what 70mph winds will do to the suspension (freeway speeds), you don't know what sort of auto-levelling adjustment the car itself might do once underway, etc...�
Feb 3, 2013
cwerdna Disagree. I certainly care. I'm not sure it's #1 for me, but it's important to me and usually a filter for me to screen out unreliable models. I wouldn't buy the absolute most reliable vehicle (of all vehicles or in its class) if it didn't meet my other criteria.
Agree, re: some. Most? Not sure about that. Agree re: Jaguar.
Take at auto sales figures at Auto Sales - Markets Data Center - WSJ.com and 2012 - Dont Call It A Comeback Edition . Then look thru an April auto issue of Consumer Reports or look at 2012 U.S. Vehicle Dependability Study | J.D. Power Autos (even though I don't trust JDPA much). In CR, one will see a ton of unreliable vehicles from GM and Ford. You'll see almost no Toyotas or Hondas w/below average reliability yet GM and Ford outsell Toyota and Honda.
I know of people who knowingly buy cars from automakers w/sketchy reliability (e.g. GM and VW) and ignore or don't even look at reliability ratings. When they have trouble and I tell some of them (like about VW), they'll be surprised.
Others choose to ignore CR and bash CR, bash Toyota and Honda and stick their head in their stand. Hang out on Cruzetalk.com, for instance to see what I'm talking about. There are VW fanboys that will also defend VW despite and make excuses (e.g. maintenance; sorry, that's not a valid excuse for body hardware that falls apart, peeling dashes, bad coils, electrical probs,etc.) for their usually poor showing.
Take a look at the lists at December 2012 Top 30 Best-Selling Vehicles In America - GOOD CAR BAD CAR and Top 30 Best-Selling Vehicles In America - December 2011 - GOOD CAR BAD CAR.
In the December 2011 issue of Consumer Reports, the Chevy Cruze was the least reliable small car, by far, w/a horrible reliability rating (see Consumer Reports Cruze reliability (from Dec '11 issue)) yet it was the #16 best selling car in the US in 2011 and #11 for 2012. People who bought the Cruze before that issue of CR came out bought it w/an unknown reliability rating. But, GM has been known for ages for having very spotty reliability, yet people bought them anyway. For 2012, from some semi-recent reports (came out a few months ago) it improved to average (actually 17% below average). OTOH, the Ford Focus has a terrible reliability rating as well, yet it was the #10 best selling vehicle in 2012.
At the risk of offending many here, I'd assert that buyers of Teslas don't value reliability as #1 as there are no CR nor JDPA reliability ratings on any Teslas. If they did, they'd wait for such results to come out first (which may never happen due to the # of respondents to CR required) and they'd have be good or excellent.
It is not mandatory in the US AFAIK. I've heard that urban legend repeated several times on other car forums before. I've owned 3 cars w/factory Xenon lights. Two of them had no auto-adjustment mechanism at all: 02 Nissan Maxima and 04 350Z.�
Feb 4, 2013
jerry33 No, just auto leveling. That's different than adjustment. Because the suspension auto-levels in the Model S, there is no need for separate HID leveling for heavy loads in the rear. Adjusting the aim is really no different with HID lights than with any other kind.�
Feb 4, 2013
JRP3 I agree. Some people seem like gluttons for punishment.�
Feb 4, 2013
mknox No, they are not adaptive. My current ICE's Xeon headlights do the "dance" and this was one of my early questions to Tesla. The response was that the headlights are "fixed".�
Feb 4, 2013
josh_b Haha... it's like the old Sony Trinitron monitors... the tiny black line caused by the wire. No one would notice it until I was a total troll and showed it to them. From then on everyone I knew who had one hated their Trinitron tubes.�
Feb 4, 2013
sueinsanjose We have had our car since October and absolutely love it.
We have had mostly minor issues since we bought the car, other than it was delivered with a non-functioning heater which immediately needed to be replaced. I think the biggest issue we have had is there is not one person or place to call when there are issues with the car. So when something comes up, we have contacted multiple people, none of which seem to have a sense of urgency to resolve our concerns.
The most recent, and most frustrating issues we have had are:
1. The windshield wipers, which stop about a third of the way up on the windshield. I can live with it, but it looks stupid. When I asked our service contact, they indicated we should wait until they had a fix for it to bring it in - sounded like it was an issue they were aware of. But this had been ongoing for a good month now and no one contacted us about it after reaching out the first time.
2. The charge port won't open with the key or on the control panel. The only way we could get it open was to gently pry it with a credit card. We have been in contact with Tesla on this one and it has been unresolved for at least a month also. I think they were waiting on parts to get it fixed so we had not brought it in.
I unfortunately was recently in a minor accident with my vehicle recently. The car needed repairs and so it has been at the autobody shop for going on the 3rd week. The hold up has been that there is a backorder for the parts needed, so until those arrive, the vehicle sits with the autobody shop. The positive of this is the autobody shop took it to the Tesla service center last week while they are waiting for parts and the two above issues are now getting fixed. It will probably be at least another week before the car is finished at the autobody shop.
I wish there was one dedicated rep for every car owner to address any issues. Everything else that has come up has been pretty minor, but it gets frustrating sometimes trying to figure out who to talk to when a problem does arise. That has been my biggest frustration with the car. It still is an amazing car and I miss driving it right now.�
Feb 4, 2013
ckessel For anyone having this problem, rather than pry it open you can give a thump with the heel of your hand on the back edge of the chart port and pop it open. The pivot point is about 1/2-1" forward of the back of the charge port door so you're pushing that part in. Probably safer on the paint job than prying it open.
My car came with a charge port door opening issue (now fixed) so I spent a week or so thumping the door open.�
Feb 4, 2013
sueinsanjose We were told to try that as well but it did not work for us. I believe someone at Tesla suggested the credit card (or maybe it was our friend), but at least it works. It is a little frustrating to come home at night and have to pry the charge port open to be able to use it though.�
Feb 4, 2013
ckessel I think I had to first go into the console and "unlock" the charge port door. Odd the thump didn't work, the delivery specialist showed me the trick when he delivered the car since one of the things he went over was charging and discovered the charging door wasn't working.�
Feb 4, 2013
jerry33 Actually, I liked to use them to line things up.�
Feb 4, 2013
Doug_G Thumping works really well. Just thump the rearmost part of the little door - the flat side - with the side (soft part) of your fist. It might take 2-3 thumps to get the right position but it will pop open.�
Feb 4, 2013
Robert.Boston ...provided it's unlocked. There's a timer that relocks the port after a bit.�
Feb 5, 2013
shady It's just a reminder of the days when you used to pull up to the gas pump with credit card in hand�
Feb 6, 2013
raumgleiter i really would like to say thank you to all of you, who are sharing their problems in this thread - but for a new member of this forum (and also formyself - i am a roadster owner), this thread must be quite shocking, because if you just read all of this, you must think this car has a load of problems and ins't finshed yet. but all of you are helping to get this car better and better.
i would like to say a word to all of you who are hesitating about buying the model s (should i buy or should i not?) - after reading this thread.
i was last friday and sunday in zuerich to drive the model s. sadly the weather was quite bad and wet but the ride was just fantastatic. i think you must sit in the car and drive it. the motor, the powertrain and the battery are just outstanding. to be honest, no cumbustion enginge can keep up with it's instant torque and smoothness, and this in complete silence.
i understand everyone very well who bothers because of some qualitiy issues, because for this money you just get a fully loaded bmw, mercedes, audi, etc. but for me the model S is the first and only car in history, which makes it possible, to quit on fossil fuels and travel with my family through a continent, and, if you like even by solar power! (and by the way, i'll bet i must smile everytime i push the accelerator, and this will last for many years).
so make sure that you don't get in panic if you read this thread! but read it and then you will prepared if you possibly find an issue.
so i went home and after almost 2 years of thinking both ways, i've just ordered a model s in pearlwhite with grey wheels. i really hope that many others will find the courage do the same. not just in the united states but also in europe! the future is here - let's drive it...�
Feb 6, 2013
Todd Burch Update on my inverter fault issue:
After several days of testing and investigation, Tesla service has determined that there appears to have been no hardware problem with my inverter. Engineering has pulled data and service's best estimate is that a software/firmware bug caused the fault. Service believes they're working on fixing this rare bug. The loss of about 80% of power seems to have been a precautionary measure only--and was not the result of a true hardware issue. This is as I suspected, since the fault went away an hour later and the car drove normally.
So, the car is coming back to me hopefully tomorrow or Friday, and I'll be back in the driver's seat. Yay!
And congrats raumgleiter--I agree completely!�
Feb 7, 2013
mknox Yeah, looks like I started something in this thread I shouldn't have :redface:�
Feb 7, 2013
NigelM Shame on you....:wink:
Discussion went here: Environment-as-a-factor-in-EV-purchase-Decision�
Feb 7, 2013
kinddog what an awesome post.
congrats on your order. you have great taste.�
Feb 8, 2013
lolachampcar First 300 miles on 4288 and the only issue that applies is the passenger door closing (known fix so not an issue). Outstanding car and good quality control.
About the passenger door slamming thing, I seem to remember someone finding that the inner and outer door seal were trapping air. They proposed a solution. Does anyone know if it worked and where the solution can be found?
Thanks,
BIll�
Feb 8, 2013
rlpm Here you go:
�
Feb 8, 2013
lolachampcar Thank you and thank you Todd.�
Feb 8, 2013
Todd Burch I proposed the solution--and at least for my car, removing that drain plug does indeed work very well! Just throw it into the glove compartment for safe keeping!�
Feb 8, 2013
PattyChuck WARNING: Sorry for the wall of text.
First, I gotta say, this car is amazing. There has been 363 miles put on it since delivery on Tuesday, but the sad part is, I'm only responsible for about 80 of those miles. The rest has been due to test drives. I've lost count, but I've had close to 15 people drive the car. I doubt any of them will result in a sale, but we're sure having fun! The Tesla grin is infectious!!
When I started reading thru this tread before my car was delivered, I was getting more and more disheartened. I was expecting a car full of bugs and mechanical issues. I wanted to post my story in this thread on the chance that someone who was reading thru having second thoughts might be comforted by the fact that not all the cars are problems. Below is a list of the things that have gone right/wrong (but mostly right) with the car:
� My car was delivered with 4.2 (.42). Only one bug found. My "Backup Cam" window video feed was "offset" from the window by about 1". A rebooting of the center display fixed this, and it has not happened since.
� When I took delivery, before I even put the car in drive, I activated the "Remote App" thru the touchscreen. My phone then nearly instantly recognized the car and was able to control it. My DES was quite surprised by this, because he thought the car needed to be marked "Delivered" in their system before it would allow the remote app to function.
� My jump seats were already installed in the car. My daughter is still too short to use them (by a few inches), but the grins I get from people when I show them is priceless.
� By the time I got home (about four hours) the myTesla section of the website had already been updated to Status: Delivered with my VIN.
� Every test drive I have given includes a section of road "friendly" to flooring it from a dead stop. Those that have test driven in the snow/sleet/rain all say the same thing: "The traction control in this car is amazing." It really is the best TC I've seen in a vehicle (full disclosure: my bar was set pretty low to begin with).
� I wanted to see if my car has the "Ambient Buzz" issue. I keep my night display at about 10%. I turned on the Ambient Light, and got no buzz. I started fiddling with the controls, and by moving the Headlight control to "Off" and then back to "Auto", the buzz started up (audio system was not playing anything, but was set at 3). I frowned. I started fiddling with more controls, and the instant I adjusted my display brightness (slaved to the right thumbwheel) from 10% to 15%, the buzz when away. I have been mashing buttons in all sorts of combinations, but have not been able to get the buzz to return.
� The charge cord got momentarily "stuck" in the charge port. Charging the car scares the crap out of me after reading a few reports of people getting the plug stuck in the port. I've learned to press and hold the button on the plug and then pull the plug straight out of the socket "with purpose" (not quite firmly, but close) after hearing the "click". The one time I screwed it up, the light circle went yellow and a warning showed up on the dash that the plug was not locked in the socket (don't remember the actual wording). A "with purpose" pull, and the plug came right out. I'll be trying a J1772 station tomorrow, and it's already giving me nightmares!
� It has been hovering around 32� here this week, dipping both above and below freezing. This afternoon, we had freezing rain/sleet. By 4:00, the side of my car was glazed with a thin sheet of ice. I started the remote climate control at 4:50, and pumped it up to "HI". By 5:00, the ice around the door handles had melted (due to the 'leakage' of air thru the door handles). There was still ice around the door, but the handles popped right out and the door opened with no problems.
EDIT:
� I was able to reproduce the ambient light buzzing by manually turning off the car (Controls -> E-Brake & Power Off -> Power Off), and then turning it back on, then setting the lights from "Auto" to "Off" and back to "Auto". As I previously reported, changing the brightness of the screens with the thumbwheel allegedly fixed the problem, but this is not the case. When the buzz comes on, it only lasts for a few seconds and then goes away all on its own. Changing settings has no effect on whether or not the buzzing goes away. I guess I got lucky with my timing.
tl;dr: The car has been, for all intents and purposes, bug free, and a complete and utter joy to own and drive.�
Feb 8, 2013
Zextraterrestrial FYI if your charge port light is yellow just push it in harder. There should be no problems with charging. just make sure your car is unlocked before you try to mess with the cord, it won't work.
cool about the handles. I wondered how good it would work :>�
Feb 10, 2013
dtich
Don't be afraid of charging AT ALL! The key is to make sure the car is unlocked whenever you plug or unplug. Simple as that. Most people having issues with the plug are just being silly and trying to plug in or unplug a locked car, which it won't do.�
Feb 10, 2013
Super Gizmo Has anyone had any problem with the tilt wheel getting stuck in the uppermost position? Mine gets stuck and then makes a snapping sound (as if the gear wheels are caught) when it eventually comes down. It is worst when I move the wheel to its uppermost position. I wonder why Tesla did not put in the feature of auto retracting tilt wheel to make it easier to get in and out of the car. Almost all other cars that have power tilt wheel have this feature.
Although I like the way the car looks and drives, it has had more problems than any new car I have ever owned. However, I have been to Fremont service department several times and they have been able to fix most of the issues. I guess the quality control suffered when they went into the ramp up mode. Maybe Elon needs to come back and start checking the cars again as they roll out. The worst thing that can happen to an automaker is to have the word spread out about quality control and problems with the cars. Many years ago Fiat had to pull out of US because of that and Jaguar suffered from poor reliability reputation for a long time until Tata took over the company. Saab is another example. I don't want Tesla to suffer a similar fate. After all I have well over a hundred grand invested in this car.
Oh oh I may bring the wrath of TSLA owners and EV fanatics down on me for bringing up anything negative about Tesla but I am stating facts.�
Feb 10, 2013
JRP3 Yeah it's not as if there is a 136 page thread discussing Model S problems, we wouldn't tolerate that�
Feb 10, 2013
brianman You must be new to this forum. So, welcome. And feel free to complain about anything, but be polite.�
Feb 10, 2013
Super Gizmo Thanks Brianman, I am not new But I usually just read and not post that often. I am complaining about the quality control because of my personal experience with my car. On the other hand when I am approached by a neighbor, relative or even strangers in parking lots I sing praises about the car and the company. Because of me my nephew has invested a large sum in TSLA stock and has a Model X on order for his wife. I am genuinely concerned about the quality control.�
Feb 10, 2013
steve841 First year, first generation, first in house produced car is the trifecta for begging for problems ... And I think they've done well and managed the problems acceptably by and large.�
Feb 10, 2013
Joyrider It seems to me that many of the problems seen in both delivery and build quality came at the end of the year when Tesla wanted to get as many cars out the door as possible.
Maybe it is my false perception, but there seem to be less problems mentioned on the forums with more recently delivered cars.�
Feb 10, 2013
znino Maybe but I would be willing to bet that there is a higher percentage of posting members on this forum that are signature holders and early early eager adopters and maybe it's not reasonable to expect that mr or mrs everyone will be posting their experiences as much as those early adopters. Not to mention that the more recently delivered cars have simply not been in the field as long as those delivered between July and December. For sure tesla will correct little things as they move forward but I doubt a few months will yield huge differences in quality which, btw, is still outstanding !�
Feb 10, 2013
Super Gizmo Good point. I picked up my car mid Nov when they were trying to push as many units out as possible. My right door and rear hatch were out of alignment, the doors popped open on their own, the car needed front end alignment, the tilt wheel had problem to name a few.�
Feb 10, 2013
stinnett_P813 I'm not being silly, they had to replace my whole charge unit because I was having problems with the charge port not opening. There are actual problems, but at least Tesla is correcting them.�
Feb 11, 2013
pete8314 Anybody had issues with the scroll wheels on the steering wheel not being able to select different content for display in the instrument panel? I'm stuck with the cover art on the left, and energy meter on the right. If I press and roll the wheels, I can see the other options, but the do not move or come into focus. I've tried rebooting the screen.�
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