Jun 17, 2013
scaesare Although the manual states fully pushing up/down on the cruise-control stalk (past the detent position) should adjust the set speed by 5MPH, it typically adjusts by 6MPH. It feels like the car is registering both the partial (1MPH) and full lever movements in the same event and adjusting for them both.�
Jun 17, 2013
roblab Early on, we had the frunk latch fail. It had gotten out of line, and closing it bent it. Then the latch and loop actually got past each other and would not open at all. The only clue we had was that the hood got harder and harder to latch, until it wouldn't open at all.
Got it replaced. Easy to close (well, one hand doable, two hands is easier) and no problems since then (8 months ago).�
Jun 21, 2013
Chuck Lusin Yes, I get this sometime also.�
Jun 21, 2013
ckessel When my wife opened the passenger front door today the passenger rear door popped itself open.�
Jun 21, 2013
Todd Burch Similar to my experience over the last week where two times I opened the rear passenger side door and the sunroof opened to the vent position (that one REALLY has my head scratching!)�
Jun 21, 2013
Zapped Is someone at 3G "mission control" pressing some buttons. Where's the "Just For Laughs" webcam ?�
Jun 22, 2013
Todd Burch That's pretty much how it felt! I sat there for awhile wondering where in the software code the two might be related...�
Jun 22, 2013
jomo25 Makes me wonder. One place they are all related is in the mobile app. I'm beginning to wonder if there's something odd happening with the mobile apps and/or the server processing the mobile app requests that is causing behavior like this. It could have been triggered by the changes made in support of the 4.5 firmware. Is there a mobile app function that could even cause the dash to be "on" randomly, like the unlock command?�
Jun 22, 2013
scaesare Given that there is logic to crack, then close the individual door windows when opening/closing the doors (ostensibly for cabin air-pressure equalization), I wonder if this is also intentional behavior under some circumstances, or perhaps an inadvertent trigger of similar code for the vent when manipulating the doors...�
Jun 22, 2013
mknox The window does the little drop thing so that the glass will clear the seal when the door is opened/closed. Cars with framed windows don't do this because the whole frame swings with the door (and they don't seem to suffer from air pressure issues). If I open the door too quickly,the glass will catch on the rubber seal and kind of flip the glass a bit as I pull the door. I've trained myself to pull the handle a bit more slowly to allow time for the glass to drop.�
Jun 23, 2013
Hank42 What production # are you? I see many people quote problems, I am curious to know what production number they are to see if perhaps it is related to assembly line issue that may have gotten resolved on newer produced models.�
Jun 24, 2013
ckessel P2840, so not super early, but within the first 5k.
I've heard of all of these problems in meetings with our local Tesla group (except my center screen replacement, it seems to be very rare). I just happened to get them all, whereas most folks have had one or two of the various items.�
Jun 24, 2013
Todd Burch I imagine most of these issues are significantly better on the latest car builds. Tesla is continuously tweaking parts as necessary to fix these sorts of issues. For instance:
1. The door handles have gone through a redesign cycle.
2. The steering "pop" sound has a service bulletin with an official fix. I assume they're either integrating this into cars being built currently, or the part has been tweaked to avoid the problem in the first place.
3. There is an official fix for the rattle in the panoramic roof that some have reported. Again, presumably they've tweaked a part to correct this, or they're just incorporating the fix into newly built cars.�
Jun 24, 2013
HawaNY I'm compelled to give an update on a persistent problem: interference with the key transmitter can make it impossible to open the car.
For example, there is a toy store in Washington DC that's in a dead zone, for some reason. Maybe a transformer box above? If u take your kids there u stand a good chance of locking your kids in the car as you go from front to back.
Yes, if you've got ur tesla app you're ok, but this is still not good.
Please Tesla, as ur biggest fan, consider some mechanical override mechanism for future models to put mothers (and dads) at ease.�
Jun 24, 2013
ckessel Are you aware of the spot indicated by the owner's manual for manual opening of exterior doors?
�
Jun 24, 2013
W8MM We've experienced this, too. No fun when trying to get in the car
It's some sort of radio frequency issue involving, perhaps, cell phone sites. Our 2010 Porsche Panamera also had one of these issues (since fixed) that seemed to happen in the same places. Porsche engineering tried to convince me it was the third harmonic of 104.9 or 105.1 MHz FM broadcast transmitters interfering with the 315 MHz key-fob frequency -- essentially drowning out the fob signal. Porsche gave me a new, improved, 104.5-105.5 notch filter that did absolutely nothing to fix the issue. It was finally fixed by new antenna switching modules containing varistors instead of diodes to do antenna switching for the hatch glass printed defroster/antenna traces.
Since the Model S gets screwed up in exact, same places where there are close-by cell sites, I'd say it has a 850 MHz or 1900 Mhz EMC problem in the keyless entry receiver.
BTW, I make my living in RF engineering.
- - - Updated - - -
I tried that maneuver, but it wouldn't work for me. The car was facing the cell site thought to be the culprit, so I went around the to the back of the car so the car's metal panels would shield my position from the brunt of the RF and I was able to open the hatch, which extended the handels, and we got in OK. But, it was a bit unnerving.�
Jun 24, 2013
ckessel Maybe keep some tinfoil around? I could loan you my hat
�
Jun 25, 2013
kinddog finally had appt on Wednesday of this week to get multiple creaks/rattles fixed.
yesterday (monday) i'm driving home and hear an AWFUL sound coming from the front drivers side wheel well. sounds like a rock is in the suspension or something. very random, but loud, like a control arm is broken. limp home.
limp back to the office today and move my appt up to today at lunchtime. i was planning on driving my S to the service center and driving away with a loaner.
go out to my car -- PROBLEM - two flat tires. both drivers side front and rear. now waiting on tow truck, and i'll have to crush my 21" rims driving on flat rubber because i'm in a parking garage and the tow truck can't fit in here.
FML...�
Jun 25, 2013
SUN-day Driver Sorry about all this misfortune. What caused the flats?�
Jun 25, 2013
Larry Hutchinson And did the tire pressure monitoring system squawk?�
Jun 25, 2013
jerry33 Two flat tires on one side is often vandalism.�
Jun 25, 2013
fastcars yeah be careful of parking garage (as specially office one).
We had few incidents related to tire and break in (mostly with good looking or new cars)...
It is possible noise coming from tire before they go flat... I had similar situation before (my tires were old) replacing old tires.�
Jun 25, 2013
kinddog Monday 5:00pm - drive home, hear knocking/rattling from front driver-side wheel well. no tire pressure warning or abnormal driving behavior.
Tuesday 7:00am - drive back to work, still hearing knocking/rattling. still no tire pressure warning.
Wednesday 11:00am - get in car to take to Tesla Service Rockville MD. see tire pressure warning after backing out of parking space. heavy steering so I put in park, get out to see two flat tires. so i pulled over again in the parking garage as soon as possible. important: the level of garage i park on is not crowded. maybe 40% capacity. there were NO cars anywhere near where i parked.
i go back to my office, call Tesla and request a tow.
1:20pm - tow truck calls and says he's here. i come down to the garage and see this:
if this WAS vandalism, then i don't understand why they didn't do the graffiti at the same time they slashed the tires? or were the tires not slashed, but there's just some @$$hole with a grudge and schoolyard chalk?
we'll know tomorrow when service gets back to me. needless to say, today sucked.�
Jun 25, 2013
NigelM That really sucks KD; assume there's no security cameras?�
Jun 25, 2013
kinddog thanks. not that i know of. if Tesla calls tomorrow and says the tires were slashed, i'll contact building management.
i would LOVE to have caught the guy who painted that crap with the chalk. it's douchy to double park in a crowded lot, yes. it is NOT a "douche" thing to do to double-park when there is NOBODY ANYWHERE NEAR YOU. it's further not douchy when you have two flat tires and are just trying to get out of the way.
i feel like this guy.... (profanity - not safe for work or kids)
�
Jun 25, 2013
steve841 Kinddog...
You got to quit pissing people off!
That sucks!�
Jun 25, 2013
nspollution It's douchey to double-park under any circumstances.
However, damaging someone's property is way beyond douchey.�
Jun 26, 2013
mknox Seems that chalking thing is not uncommon:
�
Jun 26, 2013
kinddog haha... i'm just tryin to get from day to day, man... trouble finds ME!
btw - what's wrong with double-parking if the garage/lot you are in is EMPTY (and stays empty)? why is that possibly anybody else's concern? i'm tired of people parking next to me and dinging my door. so why is double parking douchy if it doesn't affect anyone else?!
i think is has everything to do with jealousy and nothing to do with double-parking. again, if it's a crowded lot, it's a different story...�
Jun 26, 2013
steve841 Actually .... I think that is funny as can be ... so long as there's no vandalism.�
Jun 26, 2013
nspollution #1 Lots become full after not being full. Somehow, it just works out that way.
#2 Double parking says to everyone else that you think you are more important than they are.�
Jun 26, 2013
bluetinc I use to think the exact same thing. It didn't take till the tenth time that I parked in the middle of nowhere in the back of an empty lot only to return to see only one more car in the lot, 2 ft from mine. I don't know why in a lot of 100s of extra spaces someone just has to park so my door won't open all the way...
Sorry KD!
Peter
�
Jun 26, 2013
steve841 WOW! I thought I was the only one who could park a mile away in an empty parking lot only to find some idiot having to park next to me.:cursing:�
Jun 26, 2013
loganss Sorry to hear about the possible vandalism kinddog.
Generally I'd recommend people with nice cars don't double park. Some people get the impression that you feel entitled to do whatever you want while making the assumption you're rich. Then the robin hood complex sets in and people do dumb stuff to the car. Happened a few time to one of my coworkers.
I typically park further away to a spot that will have only one car next to me and the spot that is next to me is the other car's driver side to reduce chance of door opening.�
Jun 26, 2013
ckessel If it's empty and stays empty, you shouldn't need to double park anyway.
You're fighting human nature. Regardless of it's right or wrong, that's never a winning proposition.�
Jun 26, 2013
kinddog this is my work building garage. i know exactly what this level of the garage looks like everyday. it's usually at 30% capacity. that's why i park there in the first place.
otherwise i'd agree with you.
and when i see a nice car double parked somewhere, i don't think it says anything like "i'm better than you". it just says "i'd like to be extra careful with my car".
again... JEALOUSY is what it's all about.
- - - Updated - - -
true on both counts.... :redface:�
Jun 26, 2013
scaesare Firstly, let me state that vandalism isn't cool. Period. Sorry to see that happen, Kinddog.
However, you are here implying motive to other people that you can't possibly know for certain. Just as those people can't possibly know your motive for double parking... yet they assumed they did.
I'm afraid I have to agree with others. Double parking, even if away form others, often sends a message. It may not be what you INTEND to send, but it maybe what's received.
While you can argue all day long about what you believe how people should respond, my (unsolicited) advice is: if you want to avoid risking damage to your vehicle, don't double park. It may not what you'd like, but as you found out, it's the real world.
Do what others have suggested: park further away in a spot least likely to inconvenience others and least likely to encourage somebody to park next to you. It's what I do. You might not be able to avoid people doing so 100% of the time... but risking a door ding on occasion is better than risking a slashing or keying.
It's just the way it is.�
Jun 26, 2013
mknox Seriously! What is the deal with that? I can park way out in the empty portion of the lot only to come back and find the only other car to have shown up about 6" away from me while the rest of the lot remains empty. :cursing: Sure glad guys don't do that at urinals :wink:�
Jun 26, 2013
ckessel I don't want to know why/how you're able to use two urinals at once....�
Jun 26, 2013
fluxemag Happens to me too. I park way the F out in the middle of nowhere and come out to see some beater parked right next to me. It's probably on purpose.
Had my recall for the seat bracket done today. Now the back seat makes a rattle noise over every bump. Awesome. Did enjoy driving the P85 loaner...look like I'll get to again really soon.�
Jun 26, 2013
pete8314 I don't think he's saying that, I think he just goes straight down the middle�
Jun 26, 2013
brianman You guys gotta stop meeting in parking lots like this.�
Jun 27, 2013
mknox I meant if I'm the only guy in a bank of 10, usually the second guy won't cozy up at the one right beside me. (Yet he'd probably park right next to my car in an otherwise empty parking lot).�
Jun 27, 2013
kinddog update: the tires are fine. Tesla service filled them with air and they have stayed that way.
someone emptied my tires on purpose. and because the timing was so close to the rattling from the suspension, i thought they were related and that something was definitely wrong with the car. hindsight 20/20, i could have used my Tesla air compressor sitting in my trunk to fill up the tires and avoided the entire towing experience altogether..
but don't feel bad for me. according to most of you, i fully deserved this debacle as punishment for the sin of double parking in an empty parking garage.�
Jun 27, 2013
bollar Glad that's all it was. My take is that you didn't deserve it, but you should expect it. My story:
I left my car at an outdoor parking lot at DFW. It was snowing and I couldn't see the lines and I parked in line with the cars already there. I returned two weeks later - the snow had melted and I found that my car was taking up four spots! The car had been keyed on both sides and there were several offensive notes about how selfish I was and how my car wasn't nice enough to warrant two spots, much less four.
The lot wasn't full, so I wasn't "taking" a spot from anyone. And I certainly didn't do it on purpose.
The point? There are plenty of vigilantes who are happy to destroy property when they sense someone has done something wrong.�
Jun 27, 2013
scaesare
If that's the conclusion you are drawing, then I don't think you are reading what the respondents have said on the whole.�
Jun 27, 2013
kinddog yea... i know, i'm just frustrated. my apologies and takebacks. :redface:�
Jun 27, 2013
scaesare I hear ya. A rough situation to deal with. My sympathies.�
Jun 27, 2013
Beavis Install a video camera and park there again?�
Jun 28, 2013
mknox My wife ended up with a parking ticket for this exact same thing.�
Jun 28, 2013
kinddog oooohhh... diabolically delicious�
Jun 28, 2013
Plug Me In TMC take note of date and time. ^^^^ Kinddog is chastened!�
Jul 4, 2013
Mnlevin So it finally happened. I was expecting it and sooner or later, I heard everyone has problems with the Pano Roof. Mine broke last week. The METAL guide arm on the passenger side BROKE. Not bent or jammed, just broke off. We got the roof closed but can hear wind noise. Took it to the SC and they said they needed to order the part and it would take about a week. Lets see!�
Jul 8, 2013
kinddog UPDATE: nothing wrong with tires or suspension. a disgruntled ex-employee who is (and was) mad jealous of everything about me (yes, it's as creepy as it sounds) came back and emptied my tires and drew that **** in chalk. had nothing to do with the double-parking.
anyway, i filed a police report, and he will be hearing from the county police pretty soon.�
Jul 8, 2013
AmpedRealtor Scary! Perhaps you should get a restraining order to be safe.�
Jul 15, 2013
ShortArc Here is kind of a funny one (FW 1.33.59):
While parked I entered an address into the NAV to see time and distance. About a minute or so later I hit cancel navigation.....all doors made an unlocking sound and the passenger door opened. Tried to replicate but could not. Keep you posted....�
Jul 15, 2013
Doug_G My charge port (or maybe Mobile Connector) is getting flaky. It keeps trying to latch repeatedly. I have to try several times, and then check whether the car can draw power from it. Every time I use it, it gets worse. Tonight I started the charge manually to make sure it worked, and I'll probably end up turning off the charge timer altogether tomorrow.
Unfortunately Tesla service here now appears to be getting slammed here, too, so I'm a bit concerned it might fail completely before I can get service.�
Jul 15, 2013
SUN-day Driver That exact thing happened to me. It clicked on and off and went between green and blue a few times before really latching on and starting the charge, and every day it was harder to start the charge until I couldn't get it to start charging at all.
Called the San Diego service center. They had me bring in the UMC and the car. They tried the UMC with a different car and it wouldn't charge that car either. So they gave me a new UMC and I was on my way. No problems since. I was glad it was that simple and quick to solve, and appreciated the great, fast service.�
Jul 15, 2013
Doug_G Well, that's good news. If it's the Mobile Connector then I have convenient access to a J1772.�
Jul 15, 2013
patp Doug,
Your car was built at the same time as mine (CAN Sig 009). I got the exact same issue about two months ago. I think we got a bad batch of mobile connectors. Car was charging properly with a J1772 adapter. They just replaced my mobile connector and everything was fine.�
Jul 16, 2013
Doug_G So Tesla is going to send me a new Mobile Connector to see if that fixes things, and a Ranger will come by on the 24th.�
Jul 16, 2013
Eggplant Brought the car home last night! It had 35 miles left on it. Charged over night to standard level with no issues.
Drove it to work and back today. Had some trouble opening the charge port. After a few tries it opened, but the car won't charge. I get the "momentarily" message, then the mobile connector clicks and voltage drops to zero. Error. Cannot charge. All green lights on the mobile connector, but red ring on the car.
Service is pulling logs now.
I have enough charge left to get it to the SC tomorrow if need be. I hope it's just a bad mobile connector. I left it plugged into the wall at home all day. I tried unplugging it for a while, but no change.
UPDATE:
Service walked me through rebooting the console, and rebooting the car by pulling fuses in the frunk. No dice. After I hung up, I tried moving the UMC to a 110v outlet... and it worked. Moved it back to the 240v... and it worked. Odd. I'm scheduling a service appt.�
Jul 18, 2013
neroden OK, this is a new technical/mechanical issue which probably won't become a big deal for anyone for a few years, but after discussing it with service, they're contacting engineering. It is a design flaw in all Model S, and will presumably need to be addressed by a parts redesign.
One of the fans used in the cooling system is, well, I don't know the standard term, but it is asymmetrical or unbalanced. Now, normally you never make fans unbalanced, because they scratch the sides of their casing, squeal, and eventually self-destruct. However, apparently it is traditional to use these unbalanced fans in gasoline cars to make a more harmonious noise along with the engine noise (something completely irrelevant to the Model S). The problem of preventing the fans from self-destructing has mostly been solved in the gasoline cars, but it depends on the fan being belt-driven in order to stop the fan from freewheeling at low speeds.
At higher speeds, the fan spins as it is supposed to. In the model S, however, once the car turns off, the fan spins down and freewheels slowly, and as it spins down, because it's unbalanced, it starts squealing as it scratches the sides of its case. It will eventually self-destruct.
This is the source of a really obnoxious squeal from any model S which is sitting still, parked, after having had the air conditioner running full blast for a while. The fan does not turn on until the cooling system has been running at a fairly high notch, so it won't be operating at all until then.
I presume that, having been notified of this, Tesla engineering will eventually replace this fan with a more appropriate balanced fan. But anyway, this is a heads up on one of the few hardware design defects I've found. (As with most such defects, it is a result of adopting something used in gasoline cars -- showing that Tesla was right to build as much as possible from the ground up.)
---
For reference, this fan is in the lower left front of the car, and it is apparently the *auxilliary* fan for the cooling system. It doesn't turn on until the cooling system is at a very high notch. The squeal, of course, is only present after the cooling system then turns *off*. I and the service tech ended up reproducing the issue by running the A/C on LO with the doors open until the compressor went up to the top notch, and then closing the door and turning the car off.
We figured out that this defect was present on all cars when we were also able to reproduce it on the loaner he'd brought. :-(�
Jul 18, 2013
NigelM Patient: Hey Doc, it hurts when I do this....
Doctor: Don't do that then....
;-)�
Jul 18, 2013
neroden Yeah, it happened spontaneously in hot weather, though.�
Jul 18, 2013
JRP3 This seems odd. I haven't seen a modern car with a belt driven fan, and I can't imagine purposely building an unbalanced fan to make a better noise in a noisy ICE. Who came up with this theory?�
Jul 18, 2013
jomo25 I have to say, I think I have heard this. Actually, I think I recorded the sound. Though I dont think the car has to be "off" for the sound to present itself.
Here's my use case and how I think I discovered the same sound: Its hot here in PHX. I pre-cool my car as I leave the office. It might be a good 5-7 min before I reach my car after starting pre-cooling as I step from my desk. Of course, the AC runs at full bore when I start the pre-cooling (along with the loud compressor sound). By the time I reach my car, the car has cooled somewhat and the fans no longer need to run at full bore. Its now just maintaining. As I approach my car, I hear a squeaking sound like an old fan that needs oil or something. So the AC is still running just at a much lower rate.
I recorded it with my iPhone. I figured whenever I need to take the car in for service, I'd play it for them if I couldn't reproduce it on the spot.�
Jul 19, 2013
qwk Yep, I have that noise too. Heard it for the first time yesterday, and again today.�
Jul 20, 2013
AmpedRealtor I find it difficult to believe that Tesla would design a fan that was unbalanced and that would wobble inside of its housing, rubbing the sides. This is something that would be impossible not to know during the design and testing process. Perhaps the tech is confused about the purpose behind designing asymmetric fan blades. Apple uses asymmetric fan blades on its latest generation laptops so as to cause an intentional and random variability in the noise the fan produces. This reduces the perception of fan noise because the noise is constantly varying between different frequencies, reducing our ability to "tune in" to the noise. An asymmetric fan blade design does not mean that the fan is unbalanced and will wobble, it simply means that the fan blades are not all of uniform shape and direction.�
Jul 20, 2013
jomo25 Ok, but it squeaks. Doubt that's intentional!�
Jul 21, 2013
JRP3 Right, it's probably a batch of defective fans.�
Jul 23, 2013
fluxemag Mine squeaks too when the car is turning off. I don't really care, but I'd be happy if it weren't that way. I pre-cool my car for about 15min before I head down from the office. It's not until the car starts moving that the loud compressor sound is heard. I wonder why that is...�
Jul 24, 2013
Doug_G I seem to have some nasty corrosion on the support that goes across the front of the Frunk. The damage was obviously caused by salt over the winter. People in northern climes might want to check for this.
�
Jul 24, 2013
efusco That looks seriously bad! Where else might there be corrosion of that degree going on that we can't see or haven't found yet... Surprised there's unpainted metal there, that seems like a risk factor for corrosion.�
Jul 24, 2013
Doug_G I see no evidence of trouble anywhere else. This could be a defective piece - bad coatings or something. We'll see...�
Jul 24, 2013
shark I have a 60 kWh MS with v4.4 that charged to 190 miles on a standard charge. I noticed that a couple of times that charging had stopped at 150 miles. Dark blue instead of steady green light at charge port, green light on UMC. After a 4 day stay at the service center, all they could guess at is loose pins in the charge port. Charge port was replaced, I was given a new UMC (just in case), v4.5 (.59) loaded by SC.
2 days at home and it happened again. Charging stopped at 170 miles (set at 90%) yesterday and 157 miles today. NO light at the charge port, green light on UMC this morning. Saw the dreaded "12V battery power low" "car needs service" messages. Drove for about 5 miles. Car alarm went off when I got back in and restarted the car. Drove to SC. Apparently they have no records of 12V message in the logs. Texted them picture I took. Nothing wrong identified. Given yet another UMC that doesn't like my outlet (red light). Sat in the car while it charged uneventfully to 184 miles (90%) with the other UMC. SC thinks there is something wrong with my outlet or power surge that is causing the car to stop charging to protect itself. I charge at 2 AM, no AC on last night but will have electrician check it out.�
Jul 25, 2013
steve841 I'll bet this becomes Tesla's first serious recall....�
Jul 25, 2013
Langzaiguy To me, that corrosion looks superficial. Then again, I'm viewing it on my phone.�
Jul 25, 2013
Lloyd It looks like aluminum became the sacraficial metal where it attaches to the steel bumper assembly.
Boats use Zinc plates to help with corrosion is the salt environment.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion�
Jul 25, 2013
mknox Yikes! This was a huge concern of mine... something I raised with both Tesla before purchase and here on the forums. I was constantly assured that "aluminum doesn't rust", but I know from experience that it corrodes into a white powder. I had a car once with a chrome plated aluminum bumper, and it ended up looking like leftovers wrapped in tin foil when the aluminum went to powder inside.
If I'm looking at this photo correctly, that piece isn't even in a particularly "exposed" area. What about aluminum suspension components or the battery compartment?�
Jul 25, 2013
RDoc Agreed on the appearance of electrolysis, but zinc plates on boats are to counter the effects of currents in the boat grounding to or through the water, there really isn't anything like that for a car. Where I've seen that sort of corrosion on a boat is with stainless fasteners in an aluminum mast or aluminum backing plates exposed to salt water, and it can be quite damaging over time. If there's that much corrosion in one winter, it needs to get fixed. That looks to me like a very serious problem.
I wonder if you've got an abraded wire somewhere that's putting a trickle current through that part. The damage looks really serious for just environmental exposure, even with a dissimilar metal next to it. My NSX has lots of exposed aluminum parts and I drive it all winter in New England with nothing like that much corrosion.�
Jul 25, 2013
JRP3 It's pretty bad actually. I'm hoping it's just a defective part that slipped through.�
Jul 25, 2013
Kalllagtunet OMG this does not look good... With over 2000 cars on the way to Norway where they will be marinated in salted snow 4 months every winter lets hope this is just one part that is affected and it is easy to exhange/fix. If not it may be a good time to sell TSLA shares soon....�
Jul 25, 2013
Doug_G There is a significant crack in the piece, visible in the picture just above the leveler screw (missing its rubber cap in the photo). The top edge is supposed to be a straight line. It has already failed mechanically. This was discovered because the hood sunk a few millimeters on one side.
This is immediately under the hood, so it's very high up in the vehicle. Salt spray from the road definitely does work its way up there, though.
The repair is simple - replace the piece. The question is whether this was a one-off defect (or a bad batch of parts), or whether they have to change the part specs.�
Jul 25, 2013
mknox Doug,
Can you see this piece by pulling the plastic cover (over the fuse boxes) off? I was in there once, but can't recall.�
Jul 25, 2013
Doug_G Yes, the covers either side of the frunk easily pop off. I would recommend inspecting it since your car went through some winter.�
Jul 25, 2013
RDoc I'm still thinking that there may be an electrical leak that's causing galvanic corrosion. If there is and the part is changed without fixing the problem, it may just corrode away again, with or without salt.�
Jul 25, 2013
Zapped What does the other side look like ?�
Jul 25, 2013
Doug_G Also significantly corroded, but not as bad.�
Jul 25, 2013
Zapped I just checked both sides and everything is intact. Driver side does shows more evidence of a splash zone.
I understand the DOT use way more salt in the eastern provinces than in the west. I remember the cars and roads being white from salt during a winter visit to Ottawa.
Regardless this should not happen.
Be interest to hear what the Tesla SC has to say.�
Jul 26, 2013
brianman When I see threads reach 180+ pages, I start wondering: "Shouldn't there be a sub-forum with separate topics rather than a single thread?"
Also, it would be nice if (the next version of?) the forum software allowed people to retitle their posts so that individual issue threads can be updated with "(Resolved)" or whatever when appropriate.�
Jul 26, 2013
mknox That's for sure. In winter out here, the roads are constantly wet with salt laden water and slush. If that were not enough, they often roll large tankers that spray salt brine on the freeways. It's horrible to get behind one of those because they spray a humongous volume of brine across multiple lanes.
My initial concern with all of this was with the aluminum suspension and powertrain components, including electrical connections at the battery and motor.�
Jul 26, 2013
ken830 I agree.. This thread is should be an entire sub-forum.
I also have the squeeking fan sound after the HVAC shuts-off.�
Jul 26, 2013
DrComputer Although I'm the one that originally started this thread, I have been rather quiet about pointing out issues with the car. I figured I'd have service fix things and keep quiet unless it was something major that I think should be shared. Well, I now have had one of those "major" issues.
Since the first day I took factory delivery of the car I noticed that at freeway speeds (65-85MPH) there was a low pitched groan or hum sound that seemed to come from the drive train. My Lexus LS was noticeably quieter. For the past 9 months I've driven the car with this groan and lived with it. When I drove up the 5 freeway to TESLIVE I had the back seats down and the cargo cover removed because I was carrying some stuff for the event. The goran was noticeably worse with the seats down. After 5+ hours on the freeway I had a headache from the constant sound. While at the TESLIVE factory party on Saturday night I happened to be chatting with a Tesla employee and we were talking about the car and I mentioned the goan. He said this was a known issue with some early VIN cars (I'm Sig 272) and that the drive train would most likely need to be replaced.
When I got back home I e-mailed my favorite guy Vince at the LA service center and told him about my issue. He picked up the car and agreed that the complete drive train should be replaced. I just got the car back tonight and took it out on the freeway for 1/2 hour and drove at speeds above 65MHP. All I have to say is WOW! I can't believe the difference. The car is SO much quieter now it is unbelievable. If you have a car that makes a hum or groan sound above 65mph take it in to service and have them fix it. I really should have driven another S months ago on the freeway to realize that my car was NOT as it should have been. I do hope this is just an isolated problem with a few cars. I'm sure Tesla doesn't want to replace many drive trains.
FYI: Here's what they wrote on the service order:
Complaint Narrative: Customer states: Groaning noise from drive unit
Pay Type: Warranty
Cause: Internal fault in drive unit.
Correction: Drive Unit - Remove and Replace
Test drove vehicle and verified customer concern. Opened attac case and advised that
noise was coming from drive unit unit area. Was advised to replace drive unit assembly.
Replaced drive unit assembly and test drove vehicle. Vehicle working as designed.
Part - ASY,P-TRAIN,SPORT,MECH,COMPLETE - (1002633-01-B)�
Jul 27, 2013
Todd Burch DrComputer--glad your issue was resolved. I'd seen you mention this groan before and had no idea what you were referring to. The fact that it's only on certain very early VINs explains it. So how does this change your opinion of the car?�
Jul 27, 2013
Zapped DrComputer, Thanks for posting.
I recently had a scheduled inspection. Since I live 14 hours from a service center, TESLA sent their service "ranger".
The experience was great: friendly , knowledgeable and thorough.
Discovered a noisy rear wheel bearing. ( I hit a dreaded pot hole a 2 months ago) They shipped a new one out overnight and replaced it the next day, no charge !
Just curious .. How long did your repair take ?�
Jul 27, 2013
Plug Me In Dr. C score one for the electric car! "Drive train replace" on an ICE is comparable to a heart-lung transplant but sounds fairly straightforward for the Model S. Glad they made your car even better.�
Jul 27, 2013
cinergi Mine was also recently replaced for the same reason (plus I had an unusual drive inverter noise (nothing that's been described on the forums before) -- so two birds with one stone). Night and day. Totally agree about the "wear and tear" it had on the driver! It had slowly gotten worse so it was difficult to realize it was abnormal.
There was somewhat excessive metallic "flakes" in the lubricant; some amount is normal but apparently it was excessive enough that clearly something was wrong (e.g. it was eating itself).
Edit: this does not mean I have zero drone. So please don't go bombarding service asking for new drive units. The same noise is still audible, just very faint.�
Jul 27, 2013
DrComputer I would say that it greatly improves my opinion of the car. Although my Lexus LS600hL was still a quieter car at freeway speeds, this new drive train puts it much closer to the Lexus and makes it far more enjoyable to drive.
- - - Updated - - -
I also agree. But on a scale from 1-10 (1 being silent and 10 being as loud as a lawn mower) I would say my car was at an 8 and is now at a 3. Not as quiet as a Lexus but also no longer as loud as a 1970's VW bug.�
Jul 27, 2013
brianman I had my Annual (well 12,500 miles) Service last week. Nothing troubling to note (yay).
They noticed something I hadn't and fixed it for me. Sharing with the class...
Thanks, Tesla!�
Jul 27, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla I've gotten into the habit of raising my suspension to Very High before backing into my garage. Of late, I've been hearing creaking sounds, more so from the rear and a bit from the front as the air suspension does its thing. A bit worried now about it.
A less worrisome creak is from the hatch lid as it closes. Some sort of lubrication or equivalent's in order for the gas struts?!�
Jul 28, 2013
aaron.s I have this same problem! I'm VIN# P03449 - about a month ago I had my tires rotated and took the service guy out on a test drive and he confirmed hearing the groan. I get it between 60 - 75 miles per hour.
Going to be bringing the car in shortly for her 12,500 service and will show this to my service manager!
Thanks!
Aaron
�
Jul 28, 2013
mknox Interesting. I feel my Model S is noisier at freeway speeds than my previous Cadillac CTS was, but not by much and I really believe it's tire noise.�
Jul 29, 2013
Eggplant I agree. My tesla isn't the quietest car I've ever driven, but I think most of the noise is tire noise. I think it's just not as well sound proofed as some other cars.
Except... I have picked up a whine from the rear at high acceleration. I first noticed the same noise in a P85 loaner, and then a few days later it appeared in my car. I've only had my car about two weeks, and I sort of wrote it off as a known thing after reading about similar things here in the club forums.�
Jul 29, 2013
DrComputer The drive train replacement did NOT change the high pitched balloon squeal sound on full throttle acceleration. If anything, this new drive train is a tad louder with the squeal. But I will take that sound over the horrible groan any day.�
Jul 30, 2013
neroden Well, Tesla service refused to fix it, and it was present on the loaner as well.
If anyone tests the test conditions I gave, and the squeal is NOT present, then I'll have to call service and yell at them for not doing their job. I would appreciate it if someone could do so. If someone can test, letting the AC run until it's at full blast, then turning it off, and you do NOT get the squeal, please report back, because then I can force them to fix it.
---
I would appreciate it greatly if someone could test this and NOT reproduce the squeal.
Because unless I can prove that it doesn't happen on all cars, I can't get the defective fan fixed. Tesla Service Philadelphia claims that all the fans do that.
Reproduction recipe quoted from my earlier comment:
(can also be reproduced by turning the A/C off completely after letting the compressor get to the top notch. Getting to the top notch takes a while and can only be done on a hot day of course)
Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues - Page 179
---
Oh, and I'm going to second the request to make this thread into an entire forum.�
Jul 30, 2013
JRP3 Fan still works, and apparently it's not excessively loud, so Tesla isn't going to replace it at this point in time. I'm not sure that's an unreasonable position, though maybe not ideal.�
Jul 31, 2013
kgb Had my car since February and I have 3000 miles on it. I finally had what I would consider a significant issue (all others were very minor). Driver rear window became disconnected from it's motor. Can't recall when exactly it happened, but that is a window I rarely use. I noticed that the window was hanging about an inch down from closed. So I tried rolling it up, and it didn't go. I rolled it down, but it wouldn't go back up. It was stuck midway. I pulled the window up to close it (it was raining). I called TM service, It was a last minute rush deal, so they had me drop it off but they gave me a P85 loaner. They fixed it within 2 days (they had to get a part from California). While it was in, they replaced my floor mats.
Other minor issues I had include: Rear seats got stuck in down position (blocked by trunk molding). Rear seat got stuck in up position (latch lever disconnected). Passenger floor mat would flop down (I didn't even complain about that... they just noticed it and took care of it). There was some adhesive goo on my roof due to the pano roof (they took care of that too).
So far, I'd say the quantity and severity of these problems are average for a new car (some manufacturers would have fewer, some more). Luckily it is less than what I expect from a new car company, with their first car, from their newly opened factory, using cutting edge technology. I have no complaints.�
Jul 31, 2013
Zythryn I seem to have a mix of similar motor noises.
If my windows are down, I hear a scratchy, squealing noise from the rear axle starting around 20 mph, peaking in volume around 24-25 mph and fading over 30 due to road/wind noise.
Service put it up on a lift and the noise from the rear axle area was very clear around 35 (no road or wind noise to cover it).
The noise only sounds when the accelerator is depressed. Doesn't seem to matter if it is a little or a lot, just that it is pushing power to the motor rather than neutral or regen.
Lately, I have noticed a very high pitch whine that occurs under the same circumstances. This is only audible when windows are up but is present at just about any speed over 20. It sounds like one of those hearing tests I used to take when young (do they do those anymore).
In addition, lately I have been hearing a groaning noise when cruising over 60.
These are all different than the acceleration whine which I take as just the regular noise with high acceleration.
The other noises worry me as I suspect they indicate a problem
Edit: I should note this is on VIN 116 with 14,500 miles or so.�
Jul 31, 2013
Doug_G There is a TSB for the rear windows. Apparently at very high ambient temperatures the windows can come off the rail. Service installs a tiny clip to prevent that from happening.�
Jul 31, 2013
Dr.Ling Doug_G, why don't you make a separate thread about that nasty corrosion-issue? It would be interesting to see if anyone else has this. I wonder what Tesla will do about it.
Reading through this whole thread (yes, it should be chopped up) I'm getting a bit nervous about being 700km from the nearest SC. I'll get my Model S in november....�
Jul 31, 2013
Doug_G If the problem recurs next winter then you can bet I'll raise the profile! For now I'm assuming it is a defective part.
As for Ranger service I'm over 400 km from the Toronto service center, and have been very happy with the service over the last three years.�
Jul 31, 2013
fizzazle Lets just preface this story with...today is my birthday!
So I go to my car to go to work and handles extend, I open my drivers side rear door, unplug my charger, roll it up and toss it on the floor of rear like I always do every morning.
I noticed that the radio was NOT on (as it usually is for the 30 seconds it takes me to unplug and put away my charger).
I get in the car and the center screen is off. I tap on it and...nothing.
The screen in front of me was fine, but it had a message on the bottom stating "please wait for center screen to power up". (Not sure of exact wording and was already late to work so didn't think about snapping a photo (or getting a screen shot!). Tried both reboots...and ... Nothing. (Not even my smaller screen rebooted).
Anyways...the damn car wouldn't drive either. I tried putting it into drive and it wouldn't let me. Sat there for good five mins...and nothing.
Called tesla Santa Monica and service manager was awesome. They are gonna take a look at it tomorrow. Still really hard to get loaners apparently...but he set one up for me after I dropped the birthday card
Eventually (about 10 mins later) the car let me go into drive ....with center screen still off. Fine by me...I was late to work! Drove 10 whole feet, Got to the gate and....doh! Can't open damn gate b/c the center screen is out (and can't use home link!)! No backup clicker/opener in the car...so cursed a few times ...and ...tried rebooting again....and....THE WHITE TESLA T! It worked. The screen fired up, the gate opened and I FLEW to work (reminding me why I love this car in the first place). i managed to only be 15 mins late to work!
Tomorrow they are gonna see if they can figure out what the heck happened.
Has this happened to anyone else?
I did just update the software few days ago...�
Jul 31, 2013
Todd Burch Over 7 months, twice on startup the driver console has told me to wait for the touchscreen to boot up. Within 3 minutes or so, it was ready to go. Rare occurrence for me, and no issues otherwise. I wondered if it was doing some sort of indexing or OS housekeeping.�
Aug 1, 2013
Todd Burch Regarding the low groan at highway speeds:
I have a P85 loaner right now as mine is in for the 12,500 mile service. The car only has about 1,500 miles on it, so must be a fairly recent VIN (forgot to check)--but I heard this groan start around 55mph (faint) and grow in pitch and volume toward 70+mph....so it seems like it may not just be very early VINs. I'll mention it to the service center when they drop my car back off.
P85 = fun.�
Aug 2, 2013
pete8314 I've got a question about the steering wheel buttons:
The other day when I was driving at night, they were bright white. I asked my wife if they were always that way, and she looked at me like I was being a bit slow (not unusual). I assumed it had just been a while since I drove at night, which on reflection wasn't really true. Anyway, last night, they were barely lit at all...if you cup your hand around them you can see a very dim backlighting, but it's almost non-existent, and not bright enough to actually see the button when it's really dark.
So, what's normal? Bright white, or barely noticeable?�
Aug 2, 2013
Doug_G They're lit??? :biggrin:
They do light up, but dimly.�
Aug 5, 2013
Model S P stability control disabled
I had two warnings pop up, stability control disabled and air suspension failure. No prior indications of problems. Service report lists cause as: Faulty yaw rate/lateral acceleration sensor, Correction: Brake Sensor Cluster.
I requested the SC update to 4.5. The Courtesy Inspection Checklist indicated that the latest firmware version had been installed, but when I checked, it was still on 4.4. The 3g service is really spotty in my area. For the last update, I had to drive to a known good coverage area and request that Tesla push the update.
I called the SC and inquired about the update to 4.5. They said it was an oversight and dispatched a Ranger to install the firmware. Ranger arrives, plugs laptop in and starts update. He said it should be complete in about 20 minutes. About a half hour later, I see him pull the car out of the garage. I assume the update is complete and he's doing a quick test drive, but he parks it in the driveway. I ask how it's going. Apparently, even when loading the firmware from the laptop, the update requires 3g or wifi updates. An hour or so later, the update still hasn't finished. He asked to use my wifi to speed things up. He gets connected, but after another hour goes by, I check again. The update has stalled and factory technicians are attempting remote diagnostics.
Eventually a flatbed was dispatched to haul the car back to the service center. The controls were inoperative and the parking brake could not be disengaged, so the tow truck driver had to drive 3" wide plastic wedges under the rear tires to try and lift them off the pavement. This is marginally effective and I have nice ten foot skid marks on my driveway. I didn't hear what caused the update to fail.
I must say that all of the technicians were polite and friendly. Tesla service did everything to smooth things over including delivering a P85 loaner and taking my car to a body shop to repair a scuff on the front bumper.�
Aug 5, 2013
JRP3 Am I imagining things or wasn't there a way to manually release the parking brake? If not there should be.�
Aug 5, 2013
brianman To my knowledge there is not. I made a request of @ownership on this one quite a bit back. No follow-up though other than the standard "thanks for the feedback" type reply. Definitely fire off another one to @ownership if you haven't already.�
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