Apr 9, 2012
Eric from NE Yeah, we went through it pretty thoroughly for the rears. Don't need to replace the fronts yet.�
Apr 9, 2012
hcsharp I have a pair of Mich Pilot Super Sports in the garage waiting to put on the rear. I will try them with the AD07s on the front. Here's what caught my attention:
- Max performance, Y speed rated with exceptional reviews and test results for handling and grip.
- Being used as OEM tires on a lot of very high performing cars like Ferrari 599 and others.
- Very low rolling resistence compared to other Max Performance rated tires. = good range
- 30,000 mile tread life guarantee. Sadly it's cut in half if your front tires are a different size.
- Lighter than the AD07s = better performance and range.
- About half the price of the AD07s and guaranteed to last 4x longer (300 UTOG).
I'm planning to report back here when I get them on which should be in about 10 days.�
Apr 9, 2012
Eric from NE Considering the Pirellis made it barely 9000 miles, I'll take my chances.�
Apr 12, 2012
Stuart My 2008 Tesla Roadster is in for its three-year service, and the quote for two new rear AD07s was $855. Instead � with the help and cooperation of the good folk at Tesla � I ordered two AD08s from TireRack.com, delivered directly to Tesla in Menlo Park for them to install for me. Cost $400 for two tires, $25 two-day delivery, $25 each tire to install, making $475 total. Elapsed time to place order at TireRack.com: about ten minutes. So (unless I'm confused) the AD08s have better traction than the AD07s, last longer, and cost less. I'm puzzled that Tesla are perfectly happy to install AD08s on the rear (and indeed suggest that, if you ask what the tire choices are) but don't carry those tires in stock themselves.�
Apr 12, 2012
dsm363 Thanks. Can you report back on how you like them? Does traction seem the same... Etc. I'm not looking for autocross tires just a good replacement for the AD07s.
It may have something to do with the ADO7s and AD048s are the only officially supported tires for front and back. They technically haven't tested different tires for front and back so probably aren't supposed to recommend that.�
Apr 12, 2012
Doug_G My understanding is that the AD07's (and A048's) are the only tires that are "officially approved", which is why they are the only types stocked.
When my current set of rears wear out I'm planning on putting AD08's on, so I'd be very interested to hear your opinion after driving on them.
Edit: What dsm363 said...�
Apr 12, 2012
hcsharp The techs at the Tesla NY service center said they don't recommend AD08's. I asked why and was told they aren't as safe as the AD07's. Went on to say "It's not just that we don't want to sell you cheaper tires. It's because other tires like the AD08s really aren't as safe with AD07s on the front."�
Apr 12, 2012
cinergi I just replaced my AD07's with AD08's -- with a winter tire in between (so a direct comparison is very difficult). I'm pretty happy with them though. Plenty grippy and not noisy. Same load/speed/UTQG rating as AD07's. Quick Googling seems to indicate AD08's do better, especially in wet weather.�
Apr 12, 2012
btown I've been running a set of AD08 tires in the back for the last couple thousand miles. I haven't noticed any difference from the original AD07 tires. Traction control under full acceleration does not come on in dry reasonably flat pavement/situations, which is very much the same as I observed with the original tires. If the AD08s have less grip than the AD07s I have not been able to detect it, but I must admit I do not try to push my car to the limit on cornering and such, nor do I go to the track. I won't know whether they wear any better until they have many more miles on them, but I'm happy to have saved a couple of hundred dollars on the set.�
Apr 13, 2012
Doug_G Well, that leaves me wondering. Doesn't sound like they said why. Are there solid engineering reasons for this statement, or is it simply that they haven't tested it?
Last year my Ranger advised keeping the same rubber on all four wheels. He said the traction control system expects the wheels to expand at similar rates, and different tires might have different characteristics. At least there was an explanation. But we're not talking about mixing Yokohamas and Toyos, we're talking about putting on the "next version" of the AD07.
So is this statement coming from engineering or legal?�
Apr 13, 2012
Doug_G Yokohama claims they have more. If anything increasing grip on the back would increase understeer. A stock Roadster is dialed in with a lot of understeer, because it's safer for street use and for inexperienced drivers (by this I mean everyone who hasn't at least taken a race school). They'd be worried about things snap oversteer and power oversteer. The TC system was designed to control both of those things.
Is it possible that the TC system is so finely tuned it only works with stock tires? I rather doubt it. The car isn't going to have different modes for AD07 and A048. And I've been running on Toyo T1Rs with no ill effects.�
Apr 13, 2012
Eric from NE The Michelins are on. Only have a few miles on since the replacement but it's noticeably different at neighborhood speeds already. Have a little moisture on the ground today so I'll get to play on the way home at highway speeds.�
Apr 13, 2012
W.Petefish Most likely legal, as to avoid liability.
I have to go in for a new set of rear tires today. The Coopers that I had lasted about 10K, but it was slower than most. I think that I'll try the Michelin Pilot Sport and see how they handle.�
Apr 13, 2012
jerry33 The statement your Ranger made is actually a valid engineering statement. Even tires from the same manufacturer can have very different characteristics. Perhaps surprisingly, this can include the exact same tire made a different batch.
Tesla is not able (and probably doesn't want to spend the money) to test every combination and the Roadster is one of the few cars that doesn't have the same size tire all around. These kind of tests are actually quite costly. So they pretty much have to go with the one they've tested, because if they guessed wrong...
So there's a legal reason as well.
�
Apr 13, 2012
hcsharp Which Michelins did you get? The Pilot Super Sports? Or the Pilot Sport all-seasons you were considering?�
Apr 14, 2012
Eric from NE The all-seasons. Too much weather around here year round to bother with swapping tires, so I'm just going to try to find something that will work year-round.
Only have about 40 miles of bone-dry highway on them so far.�
Apr 14, 2012
hcsharp I called Tire Rack yesterday and spoke with a guy with considerable knowledge about high performance tires. I asked what the difference might be between the AD08, AD07, and Mich Pilot Super Sport on a Tesla Roadster with AD07s on the front. First he said "it's not ideal [mixing front and back]." He said the AD08 would be at least as good or slightly better than the AD07 with better tread wear, and the PSS would be "comparable" to the AD08, "you would probably not notice any difference except better wet performance and much longer tread life" with the PSS. I asked about future availability for the fronts in either AD08 or PSS and after checking both he said "I don't see either one coming in that size this year."
FWIW I recommend taking it with a grain of salt until you try it. But I wanted to report what he said.�
Apr 14, 2012
Eric from NE Keep in mind I'm not doing anything outside of "daily"-type driving here. Just 80 miles of highway most days. My battery and paint will take much bigger beatings than the tires, and I'm not interested in squeezing every last .01 out of my acceleration times.
What do you think his implication was for "not ideal" for mixing front and back?�
Apr 14, 2012
jerry33 Except in extreme mis-match cases where the car becomes unstable at even very low speeds, the time you usually find out about the mis-match is at the limits of adhesion. If that happens during an emergency maneuver it's likely to ensure an accident or make an unavoidable accident worse.�
Apr 14, 2012
frequencydip I call bullocks on tire expansion issues front and rear. Tires never expand ant the same rate even if you have the same 4 on all corners. Tires dont even expand equally left to right although the are more likely to. Front tires take the majority of breaking, that heat from breaking heats the front tires faster than the rear tires. Front tires also warm up faster due to them being turned in a cornering maneuver, they do not follow a strait line and therefore have higher friction. The rear tires have considerable weight on them and they heat up if you accelerate hard especially if you disable traction control. Due to the weight they also heat up due to the side walls compression and re-expansion over the tires contact patch.
When cornering the outside tire takes the brunt of the load making it heat up more than the inside tire. The main reason you want matching tires is so the revolutions the tire makes are the same side to side at normal temperatures thats why you replace them both you dont want a 50% worn tire on the left and a new tire on the right that will lead to different circumferences in tires regardless of heat expansion. This is why you also dont mix tire brands or models side to side. Tires with the same 195/35 sizing from two different manufactures will have different circumferences in addition to different grips. Matching different tires front to back will make no difference to TC in regards to heat expansion if they work cold they will work hot.
At operating temperature all 4 tires will have a different temperature and different level of expansion. Buy tires that fit and don't put cheap tires that have high Treadwear ratings these tire will not perform well for the roadster. I would not recommend any summer tire with a higher than 200 rating.�
Apr 14, 2012
jerry33 It would take an extreme difference in construction to change the expansion rate to a significant degree. Example, A tire with two stabilizing belts rather than three or a tire with floating sidewall plies vs. no floating plies. Tires with these kinds of construction differences would also have different revolutions per mile.
Correct.�
Apr 14, 2012
Doug_G Sure you can get left-right differences. You can get a couple of PSI difference with the sun shining on one side of the car while it is parked. That sort of thing would be noticed in a race car driving at the limit of grip, but not under normal driving circumstances - that takes a bigger difference.
The other day I had occasion to drive someone else's car, and it felt really wrong. The handling was weird, and on the highway it kicked sideways when you hit the gas! Figured it out pretty quickly... somebody didn't check his tire inflation. The left rear was 12 psi low!!! Now that is noticeable, if not downright dangerous.
FWIW, I don't really buy the tire expansion thing either.�
Apr 15, 2012
dsm363 You're correct I believe. I typed 'have tested' and meant to type 'haven't tested' different tires for front and back on same car.
That said, I'm going with AD08s on back next time. No need to donate $200 more to tires if it makes no difference for street driving.�
Apr 15, 2012
jerry33 Actually, I can tell that kind of difference (2-3 psi) in the Prius. However, I'm probably more sensitive to tires than most people. When I drove the Land Rover Series III, I could tell a one psi difference (but I was a lot younger then :smile
�
Apr 15, 2012
Alan Due some new tires soon - 7K miles again out of the rears :smile:
Considering swapping from the AD07 LTS to AD08s but they seem out of stock with no delivery dates in the UK so thinking of other options.
One area the Yokhama tires are weak on is the wet grip, not surprising really as they are really track day tires. Reading a few reviews I am tempted to trade off a bit of dry grip for wet performance - see this review for example 2010 EVO Tyre Test | the online tyre guide Also I can not help but notice how many accidents reported on this site involve wet road conditions.
Are those of you who have moved away from the Yoko tyres been impressed by better wet performance / braking & is it worth the loss in ultimate dry grip?�
Apr 15, 2012
Doug_G I'm currently running the now-obsolete Toyo T1Rs. I can't say there's a dramatic difference, but they might be slightly better in the wet. They don't have quite the same dry grip as the AD07, but for some reason you notice it more on cornering than on acceleration.�
Apr 15, 2012
ChadS I still have the original AD07's on the front. But on the rear I've had a couple of pairs of AD07's, a pair of Proxes 4's, and now I have Continental Extreme Contact DWS. Whoa nelly, do they have better grip in the wet. I can floor it on wet pavement and the TC light usually doesn't come on (base model, standard mode). Supposedly these DWS tires also kick serious butt in snow (at least when new), although I haven't had a chance to try that.
There is some loss of dry grip. In fact it seems like I get the TC light more often on dry pavement than wet, although I don't see how that can be possible. It doesn't always come on, and it doesn't stay on long. Is that worth it? Depends on what kind of weather you get, and how you drive. I feel I can drive with more abandon in wet conditions (when I used to just drive carefully), but now I can't count on max acceleration when dry.
Thoughts on all three tires (note that all thoughts are based on street driving; I have not been to the track):
AD07: Best dry grip. Great handling. Gotta change 'em a lot. Not especially quiet or smooth.
Proxes 4's: Almost-as-good dry grip (not quite); but somewhat worse than the AD07 in wet (despite being all-season--this surprised me). A little quieter, with a slightly smoother ride. Cheaper to buy, and lasted twice as long. Handling did suffer a bit (most notable when driving on freeway ruts), but then I still had AD07's on the front; putting Proxes on all four tires probably would have helped.
Extreme Contact DWS: Definitely less dry grip than the AD07's, and even the Proxes 4's. But awesome wet/snow grip. Not as quiet and smooth as the Proxes 4's; probably similar to the AD07's (but almost a year passed between the two, so it's hard to compare). Handling is similar, but probably a tiny bit worse than the Proxes 4's, although again I'm still running AD07 on the front. About the same price as the Proxes 4's, but should last 75% longer.
If you live where it's always dry or always wet, the choice may be simple. But if you have a dry season and a rainy season, I think it would come down to choices like the following:
If you bought the Roadster because it's a sports car and you want to always have the best grip (and are willing to give up some time and money to get it), get an extra set of wheels and run AD07's (or AD08's) in the summer, and Contact DWS in the winter.
If you bought the Roadster because it's electric, and you just want cheap, simple and safe (and are willing to give up a little performance to get it), get a full set of Contact DWS.
Somewhere in between, if you don't need perfect grip or the cheapest solution, but you do want great dry traction to demo the car and nice general driving characteristics, and you'd rather drive carefully in wet than swap wheels twice a year, the Proxes 4's make sense.�
Apr 15, 2012
Doug_G That fits with their reputation. They are quite often used as wet weather track tires.�
Apr 15, 2012
Alan ChadS - thanks for that.
I had thought about having 2 sets of tires / wheels for different seasons. We dont really get much snow in the UK but plenty of rain so a "winter" set that performs well in the rain such as the continentals makes some sense. Given however the tire pressure monitoring stuff it might be easier to keep one set of wheels and swap the tires? If you have different wheels you will need a Tesla ranger to reset the TPMS?�
Apr 15, 2012
jerry33 Every time you mount or demount a tire you risk damaging it. The damage usually occurs on the inside where you can't see it. You also have to pay for rebalancing and mounting each time. Extra wheels are always the way to go.�
Apr 15, 2012
Doug_G If you're not near a Tesla service center you can "borrow" the TMPS gadget from Tesla to set up your wheels, but it would be a bit tedious to do that twice a year. It's also possible to purchase the gadget from them.
I've taken the approach of NOT installing TPMS sensors in the second set of wheels. You just have to be prepared to ignore the inevitable BRAP BRAP BRAP and error message - and the somewhat annoying loss of the left-arrow button on the VDS.
Funnily enough I often got "Tire Pressure Low" messages when backing out of my garage. That's because the TPMS sensors were in the other set of tires sitting on the rack in my garage, and they got low due to the cold temperatures.�
Apr 15, 2012
hcsharp A lot of tire shops in the US won't install tires now without TPMS sensors if your car originally had them. I now have 2 sets of wheels but can't see any reasonable way to use them. I'm too far from any service center and would get sick of the [email�protected] warning message for half the year. I'd buy my own tool but Tesla wants $800 for it.�
Apr 16, 2012
W.Petefish Just so you know, that is apparently the going price for said tools. I'd see about getting a second set of rims and tires but I don't want to have to buy the TPMS sensors and have them on the same frequency and ID that the roadster's current ones are.
I am getting a set of Toyos today. The Cooper tires that I was using work great for in-town driving, but they are slow. (I guess that it has to do with the 380 rating.)�
Apr 16, 2012
augkuo I've had the MPSS on the rears for 4000 miles now with no problems (AD07's on the front). It has a better wear rating and performed nicely during the massive rains we've had recently.
�
Apr 16, 2012
hcsharp Really!? :love:I've been trying to find somebody with this setup! (Mich Pilot Super Sports on rear w/ AD07 front). Can you give us a more detailed report on how they perform on dry pavement compared to AD07s on the rear? I'm putting the MPSS on in 2 days...
TIA.
edit: Augie do you have the Pilot Sport A/S or the Pilot Super Sports? There appears to be a big difference. thanks.�
Apr 17, 2012
augkuo I got the Super Sports - it's a summer tire with a wear rating of 300 vs the AD07's of 180. The Sport A/S is an all-season tire with a wear rating of 500 - I would imagine that for your fall/winter/spring seasons the A/S would be a better bet. It's pretty dry here so all-seasons aren't really needed here. I've seen my 0-60 times increase by 0.1-0.2 sec (PocketDyno on iPhone) but I primarily use the car for my commute so I'm ok trading off tire wear for a little slower acceleration. I think that the A/S would slow you down even more so be aware that a high wear rating usually means that your tires will be less "sticky".
�
Apr 18, 2012
frequencydip It's not the decreased acceleration switching to a less sticky tire in the rear you should be worried about its the increased oversteer your adding to the vehicle. That 1000lb over the rear wheels is going to swing around real fast when it breaks loose. Looking at the bright side the more roadsters that get totaled increases my roadsters value.... so its not all bad...�
Apr 18, 2012
Doug_G I don't think this is an issue if the TC is on. Plus the stock suspension (and default for the adjustable suspension) has a huge amount of understeer dialed in. I've loosened my front sway bar and it still understeers.�
Apr 18, 2012
hcsharp I put the Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the rear today with AD07's on the front. They're not broken in yet but my first impressions are quite good. TC does not come on at all in full acceleration. It feels almost the same as having AD07s on all 4. Maybe slightly less under-steer, but so close it's hard to say. I'll give a more detailed report after they're broken in at 500 mi or so. These are guaranteed for 15,000 mi on a Roadster and 30k mi on a car with the same size tires front and rear.�
Apr 18, 2012
benji4 Yesterday Tesla installed Toyo's entry level performance DRBs ( 225/45R17 91W) on the my rear wheels. I was just dying to experiment with something cheaper and quieter than the $440 installation included that Tesla Japan charges the stock Yokos. The DRBs cost just $130 each + about $60 per wheel for Tesla to install. Unfortunately it would not appear that Toyo sells these tires in the U.S.
TOYO DRB | Toyo Tires
I can report so far that I'm happy both with how quiet these tires are as well as they seem to grip very well both off the line and in mildly aggressive cornering. I don't want to go too crazy with these quite yet before they are broken in, but I'm definitely looking forward to doing more testing soon.�
May 3, 2012
Doug_G Driving on A048's
I recently got a second set of rims with A048 sticky tires, for use in autocross. My first event of the season was a school in Toronto. No problem, I've done that trip before many times.
Got a nasty surprise - the temperature was unexpectedly low on the trip out - and back! Despite being quite warm at other times, I was driving long distances both ways at 4 - 5 degrees C. At those temperatures my power consumption was about 25% above "ideal". Wow - I've never seen anything like that before. The rolling resistance of those tires is horrible in the cold.
This made things a little tense in terms of "schedule anxiety". Because I kept an eye on things and slowed down appropriately, I was never in danger of running out of charge, so no "range anxiety". But I ended up driving slowly and the only charge stations available right now are only 30A. So the trip took much longer than planned. Despite leaving ample time, I ended up very nearly missing a flight (had to do a side-trip for business along the way).
All that said, the A048's are absolutely awesome for autocross. What grip! Huge difference in the cornering!�
May 3, 2012
strider Doug, were you running lower pressures for added grip? Could that have contributed to the loss of range?�
May 4, 2012
Doug_G No, I was running on the highway so I had the pressures set to Tesla's recommendation. The next day when the temperatures were at 16C the range was back to normal.
Interestingly skid pad testing indicated that those pressures were just fine for autocross, too.�
May 9, 2012
btown I replaced my first set of rear tires (7K miles) with AD08s hoping for a bit longer tread wear. I found them to be very comparable to the original AD07s in terms of grip, but after just 5K miles they are down to the wear bands. A bit earlier in the year they gave me a bit of a scare on the freeway in very heavy rain when I could feel the car start to float slightly back and forth. I backed down my speed immediately (but very cautiously as well). The tires had plenty of tread when this happened and I guess it makes sense for all these performance tires to not do so well in the rain, given all the flat surface areas on the tires. So I'm back looking at options and considering moving towards something with a bit better rain performance/safety. Longer wear would be welcome as well of course. A couple of folks (hcsharp and augkuo) mentioned putting on the Michelin Pilot Super Sports, but I don't think either of them have reported back after getting a bit more experience with those tires.
So this is a call to hcsharp, augkuo and anyone else running the Michelin Pilot Super Sports to chime in on how these tires are doing in terms of rain as well as dry performance.�
May 9, 2012
Doug_G btown - My Toyo T1R rears are now down to the wear bars, and I had a hydroplaning incident pretty much identical to yours. I already have a set of AD08's to swap in, and just hadn't got to it yet. (Will put original AD07's back on the front.)�
May 9, 2012
ggr I'm happy with mine in the dry, but in the three months or so I've had them on the rears, I've been somewhere else every time it rained.�
May 9, 2012
btown How do you feel they compare to the original tires (AD07s) in terms of dry conditions grip? Do you notice less traction or anything like that?�
May 9, 2012
dsm363 The AD08s lasted 2,000 miles than the AD07s for you? I was thinking about going to the AD08s on the rears but still have another 4,000 miles to go on my new AD07s.
That's scary. Glad you're ok. I've never checked my tires as much in my life until I got the Roadster. I'm going to be very conservative from now on with my tire replacement schedule and replace them earlier than normal (probably 4/32 tread instead of the 2/32 inch I've read about).�
May 9, 2012
btown I think you read my comment wrong, or I was unclear in the way I stated it. For me, the original AD07s lasted 7K miles. The AD08's are already down to the wear bands and have only 5K miles on them. I was expecting/hoping the AD08s would last a bit longer than the AD07s, but instead they wore out even sooner. 8^(
In my case, the hydroplaning occurred when there was still a good amount of tread left. It was VERY heavy rain though and the freeway I was on had ruts which I think added to the issue. Definitely didn't give me a good feeling though, and I've learned to be very cautious at higher speeds in the rain.�
May 9, 2012
dsm363 Hi. I typed my response incorrectly and left out the word 'less'. I meant to write the AD08s lasted 2,000 miles less than the AD07s. I thought they were rated higher than the AD07s. If that's the case, I'll just stick with the AD07s then. They've driven fine for me in the rain (yes, we've had rain recently in Texas:smile�
May 9, 2012
Doug_G Funny how I wore the original AD07's down well past the wear bars (wasn't paying enough attention back then), and never had a hydroplaning incident. Must have never happened to drive in the wrong conditions.
As a driver I've become much more sensitive to grip thanks to the Roadster, and not just because of simply driving it. It inspired me to try motorsports. I've taken a couple of advanced driver training schools, and have been doing autocross and lapping*. I've come to the conclusion that you don't really know how to operate an automobile unless you've taken one of these courses. I think this helped me when the rears started hydroplaning, because (a) I felt it right away and (b) I knew better how to react to it. No harm done but it really alarmed me.
*Lapping in another car due to lack of charging at the track... and the fact that the Roadster is pretty much irreplaceable now. :scared:�
May 9, 2012
btown It's possible the freeway ruts contributed to the problem by pooling the water. I felt the mushy hydroplaning feeling right away (as the rain really came on) and backed down immediately. The entire event probably lasted about 1-2 seconds before I backed off on my speed. Perhaps it was just the perfect storm...�
May 9, 2012
Doug_G Yeah, it was the same with the "ruts", but I think also amplified by the fact that we've had very little rain prior to that night. The road gets layered with rubber, oil, etc. over time if it doesn't get washed off.�
May 9, 2012
jerry33 Hydroplaning occurs when the pressure in the wedge of water which is created in front o the tires is equal to the inflation pressure. The wider the tread width is, the faster pressure build up. So don't be stingy on pressure in your tires when it's raining.�
May 9, 2012
hcsharp Good timing because it rained hard yesterday and I did a bit more testing. I have about 450 miles on them so not entirely broken in but close enough to have a discussion.
They have excellent grip and handling with what appears to be much longer life than the Yokos. The dry grip and traction is very slightly better with the AD07, but not much, and wet grip is much better with the MPSS. I have the adjustable suspension so I had already dialed out some of the understeer. With the MPSS on the rear and AD07's on the front the understeer was further reduced, but not a big difference. On dry pavement I have a hard time making them let go before the fronts, and when they do it's predictable and still quite strong. On wet pavement I could not make the rear tires let go first, and overall their wet performance is notably better than with AD07s on the rear.
For flat-out acceleration, I could not detect any difference between the AD07 and MPSS. That doesn't mean there isn't any. I just don't have a good way of measuring 0-60 times. I also switched to forged rims which might have helped. The MPSS are also lighter than AD07. Augie said he measured .1 to .2 sec slower 0-60 using his phone dyno app. That wouldn't surprise me. I could not make TC light come on during full acceleration on dry OR WET pavement. That last part is interesting to me. With AD07s on the rear, even w/ lots of tread, they would sometimes slip enough to trigger TC on full accel in heavy rain. Not so with the MPSS.
In summary, I think you give up a very small amount of dry grip/handling in exchange for a lot better wet performance, much longer tread life, less money and possibly more range. If only they made this for the front...�
May 9, 2012
dsm363 Thanks for the review. I find it highly annoying that Lotus picked a tire size where only one manufacturer in the world made both front and rear tires sizes.�
May 9, 2012
hcsharp Continuing the discussion of the Mich Pilot Super Sports on the rear with AD07s on the front.
The other thing I noticed in the rain the last two days is I appear to get better range with these tires. I don't really have enough data to call this for sure, but I drove 50+ mile routes the last 2 days in the rain and yesterday I almost matched the ideal miles. 11 of those 50 miles were at 65mph and it rained the entire time, sometimes hard! I drive these routes a lot and rarely match ideal miles when dry, and it's normal to see an additional 10% usage with rain. More if you have to run the defrost like I did for part of yesterday.
This would be consistent with Consumer Reports, one of the few places that tests tires for their rolling resistance. They reported this tire to have both excellent gas mileage and outstanding performance, a rare combination.�
May 9, 2012
btown
I noticed these tires are about 3lbs lighter than the stock tires. I wonder how much of the range difference may be due to that. The lower the mass in the tire, the less energy required to spin it.
I think I'm going to give the MPSS tires a try for my next set unless I hear some compelling reason not to. So far it doesn't seem like there is only marginal down side if any. I also read in some of the reviews that they are quieter than the AD07/08 tires, so that would be a nice bonus as well. Too bad they don't have them for the fronts, as Michelin is running a sale with $70 off on a set of 4.�
May 10, 2012
strider Toyo makes tires in Front (Sport) and Rear sizes.�
May 10, 2012
dsm363 Oh, didn't know that. I guess I only checked on Tirerack.com so that's good to know there is another option at least. Thanks.
I have a regular Roadster but with the sport wheels and suspension upgrade so it should work.�
May 10, 2012
vfx http://dynolicious.com/ ???�
May 11, 2012
augkuo Another pro is that there's less tire "dust" on the back of my car, especially since it's white!
�
May 20, 2012
vfx Any try these?
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/productdetails/Home/Turanza_with_Serenity_Technology
Supposed to be quiet
$229 at Tirerack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+Serenity&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=245WR7TS&tab=Sizes�
May 20, 2012
Doug_G AD08
I've been running AD07 front and AD08 rears for a few days now. I've put them through their paces and I have to say they're just fine. As expected the grip is a bit better than the T1Rs I had been running.
Frankly I can't see any reason to spend more to get the older AD07 rears.�
May 21, 2012
Jaff Thanks for the input Doug...I think I'll switch to your config the next time I'm in the market!�
May 30, 2012
Andy Spaziani At 7500 miles I had the Toyo Proxes R888 tires installed. The car now has 9795 miles and the rear tires are down to the wear indicators. I'm older, don't race and rarely travel above the speed limits. I really don't believe these tires have a 100 wear rating.
:smile:Andy Spaziani vin 1198�
May 30, 2012
dsm363 There's a lot of good information in this thread but I'd at least put the Yokohama AD07s on all 4 tires or ADO7s on front and AD08s on rears. They will last a little longer (maybe 7,000 miles on the rear and 25,000 on the fronts). There are other tires that will last longer for the rears.�
May 30, 2012
Doug_G R888's are a street-legal competition tire. Great for autocross, but I don't think they're a good choice for daily driving.�
May 30, 2012
btown I put a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the rear last week based on the positive experience some other owners had expressed. I was looking for a bit better wear and better rain performance. Here's my experience so far:
- They are much quieter
- Haven't had any rain yet, but the tread pattern definitley looks like it should do very well
- They are sticky enough to launch (full accelleration) on dry flat ground without any traction control. This does not of course mean they are as sticky as the Yokohoma, but the only way to know for sure would be in aggressive cornering at high speeds and/or acceleration, which I have not tested. Fortunately, I think I've gotten past the reckless point of testing such capabilities (like I did back when I first got the car).
- Traction control comes on a lot during regen (steadily blinks), but only for the first 1-2 miles after each start
That last item is an interesting one. At first I was concerned the tires were not sticky enough. However, the tires are proving capable of much larger Gs during acceleration than they are trying to inflict on the car during regenerative braking. That coupled with the fact the traction control during regen goes completely away after 1-2 miles makes me suspect this is possibly a minor issue related to the new tire diameter??? The new tires are 25", whereas the AD07s are 24.9". That doesn't seem like enough difference to be an issue, but I can't think of any other explanation. Here's my theory. The rear tires are larger and therefore spin slower than the "stock" tires. During regen, it appears to the car that the tires are slipping (ie. real slipping caused the rear tires to turn slower during regen). My guess is that the car monitors the speeds of the front vs rear tires during normal cruising (ie. not heavy accel or decel) and comes up with the proper ratio to base the traction control on. I'm guessing that when you start the car you are at a default ratio and the car is learns the real ratio after a mile or two? The only odd thing with this theory is the fact they wouldn't store the learned ratio for use on the next drive. However, doing so might cause some safety issues on the first mile or two after replacing tires. So perhaps they took the more conservative approach by always starting with a factory default which is over cautious (ie. more prone to throw on the traction control vs. less prone which would be less safe). I have NO idea whether this is really what is going on, so I'm all ears if anyone can come up with a better theory. Thankfully, the traction control during regen still allows probably about 50-60% of normal regen AND everything goes back to normal after a mile or two. I'm confident this will probably just go away once the tires have .1" of wear on them.
All in all, I'm very happy with the tires so far and consider the traction control a minor issue. I wouldn't be saying that if it was coming on during acceleration of course!�
May 30, 2012
hcsharp With those tires I can launch full accel on virtually any WET pavement without TC coming on. Not so with the AD07s.
I never have TC come on during regen (unless I run over something). Reading the rest of your post makes me wonder if you have a version 1.5 or are unaware of the new tire learning feature. You have to select a menu option for new tires and then the car will instruct you to drive a specific pattern to "learn" the new tires. It doesn't do it automatically every time you drive 2 miles. I think this feature is only on 2.x models.
Not sure how many miles are on your new Super Sports. Maybe you already know this but most performance tires need a good 500 miles or more to get broken in. They will be quiet but otherwise not perform as well when they are new. Mine got better for the first 1,000 miles or so.
I'm waiting for someone to give these a real test, like on a track or carefully measured 0-60 times. And, of course, I'm waiting for them to make it in the front size!
�
May 30, 2012
strider It's also possible the tires just take awhile to warm up. I have no idea if this carries over but I can tell you that Michelin motorcycle race tires take FOREVER to heat up. Once they're hot they last well and are fine tires but they are terrifying when cold. On acceleration the car may be limiting power but not enough to light the TC light. I notice with my Toyo Proxes 4's (less sticky than stock) that I get lower acceleration numbers when stomping on it (from the car's performance screen) and also less regen when the tires are cold but the TC light doesn't come on in either case.�
May 31, 2012
Doug_G Yeah, I suspect it's a matter of the tires warming up.�
May 31, 2012
btown You are correct, I have a 1.5 Roadster, which means it doesn't have the tire replacement screen/option. The tires only have about 100 miles on them, but I really doubt they are actually slipping during regen. I can't imagine them slipping during slow speed regens yet not slipping during high acceleration takeoffs. TC during regen is very consistent, even at very slow speeds. TC during regen completely disappears after 1-2 miles each and every time I go out for a drive. I'll try to do some more calibrated testing when I get a chance. If I determine that the TC during regen goes away at exactly the same mileage point on each trip, then I think it's pretty safe to conclude there's some sort of software algorithm at play. I'm still open to hearing other thoughts, theories or experiences out there. It's interesting the other Michelin Pilot Super Sport purchasers haven't seen this issue. Perhaps I'm the only one who has put them on a 1.5 Roadster?�
May 31, 2012
jerry33 Note that new tires still have mold release (lubricant) on them. It's a good idea not to use them full out for the first 300 miles to allow this to wear off.�
Jun 2, 2012
ChargeIt! What are you cold PSI pressures ? Try increasing the rears by 2 psi, or creating an additional 2 psi differential between rear/front ... this will depend on how close your current settings are to recommended pressures. HTH.
EDIT: I corrected this post below ... try the opposite (thanks, hcsharp!)�
Jun 2, 2012
hcsharp That's funny, my reaction would have been to try decreasing the difference between front and rear. Not that I know what I'm doing... I think ChargeIt has a good idea to experiment with the relative tire pressures. You might want to also post your results in the 1.5 tire thread if not already.�
Jun 4, 2012
btown Thanks for the suggestion hcsharp. I went ahead and posted to the 1.5 thread, as the regen issue I'm seeing is definitely a 1.5 issue. Still very happy with the Michelin Pilot Super Sports, so I want to again give a big thank you to the 2.5 owners who turned me onto them!�
Jun 5, 2012
ChargeIt! WHOA !! Thanks for catching that. YOU ARE RIGHT ... I must have been on some sort of meds ( kidding ... but I don't remember !!
So ... let's re-write the whole thing ...
Try decreasing the rears by 2 psi, or reducing the differential between rear/front by 2 psi ... this will depend on how close your current settings are to recommended pressures. HTH.�
Jun 29, 2012
augkuo Ok I wore my Michelins down to the bone - about 11k miles versus ~5k for the Yokohamas.
�
Jun 29, 2012
Doug_G You totally corded it! I don't think you really got 11k miles out of them... they were probably not street legal for the last few thousand miles.
I'm guessing you don't drive in the rain very much, because that would totally hydroplane at highway speeds.�
Jun 29, 2012
hcsharp Looks like you'll be getting some compensation from Michelin. Those were guaranteed to last 15k. You would get more money back if you made a claim when the tread was at the wear bars.�
Jul 3, 2012
daniel Not sure if this is the right place to post this.
At my first annual service last week (2010 2.5 non-sport #1117, purchased from inventory so I took delivery exactly a year ago last week) with roughly 3,600 miles on the odo, the ranger told me that my rear tire treads were at about 50% and suggested that below this they would not be safe in the rain. Based on his recommendation I bought two new rear tires from him. (I don't know enough about cars to feel comfortable deviating from Tesla's recommendations, so I'm sticking with their recommended tires, and I'm supporting Tesla by buying them from them, especially since he had them with him.) Since I'll be gone for a good part of summer, and getting tires switched is a hassle, I'll wait until it's time for winter tires before having the new ones installed, though I'll do that rather early than late.
My question is: What happens to the old tires? Do they have any value with 50% of the tread remaining, maybe for someone who only drives in dry weather? And if so, should I expect the tire place to give me something for them when I'm not buying the new ones from them? Or should I expect to pay them to haul the old tires to a tire recycler? Or is there a secondary market for them (e.g. Craigslist or eBay)?�
Jul 3, 2012
jerry33 1. The tire place won't give you enough to make it worth your while.
2. There is always someone who will purchase your 50% worn tires. (for track practice if nothing else, after all, racers typically shave the tread down to 50% or lower).�
Jul 3, 2012
drees With that much more tire wear on the insides rather of the tires, I have to suspect some sort of alignment issue or Tesla specs too much toe-out in the rear - perhaps to get the car to rotate better? Getting the rear alignment more neutral should add a lot more miles to the tires and perhaps increase efficiency, too if it's caused by toe-out.�
Jul 5, 2012
frequencydip Put the tires up on Craig's list you should get a $40 or give them away for free. Someone can certainly use them.
The Roadster will always wear the inside of the tires out, this is normal and the expected behavior. The tires all have negative camber on them, this is designed to improve cornering, the Roadster is a sports car not just an EV.�
Jul 5, 2012
drees Unless there is a LOT of negative camber, you shouldn't be seeing that much more wear on the inside. Looks like stock rear camber specs are -1.8. That's not really that much and maybe only slightly more than what you typically see on stock vehicles. Could have to do with how the particular car is driven - would be interesting to see if everyone's tires are wearing like that.
It's also quite likely that the wear looks more un-even than it really is from this one pic. Just seems like it could be a bit better.�
Jul 5, 2012
Doug_G I agree with drees... I've never seen that kind of wear. If it's in spec then it shouldn't be that bad.�
Jul 5, 2012
daniel Thanks!�
Jul 6, 2012
frequencydip That tire was worn out 2000 miles ago thats why the tire looks like that. with -1.8 and all the weight from the battery the roadster will chew the inside of the tire out much faster. All sports cars if properly setup will wear the inside of the tire out under normal driving conditions both front and back. If you were really driving the car hard like a sports car or at a track the tire wear would be even. When a car corners hard it leans on the outside edge of the tire, with negative camber the tire will lay flat when cornering thereby making maximum grip. when driving strait the car is leaning on the inside edge causing what looks like excessive wear. The roadster has insufficient front negative camber thats one of the reasons why the car tends to understeer.�
Aug 15, 2012
kgb I'm reviving this thread with an update:
I just replaced my rear tires again. To summarize the history of my rear tires:
Miles 0-3,100 = Yoko A048's (if I remember correctly, these tires were good but didn't last long)
Miles 3,100-7,100 = Toyo Proxes R888 (I liked these too, but also didn't last long)
Miles 7,100-16,200 = Continental ContiSportContact 3 (these were ok for just driving around town. they were very bad at the track. Mediocre grip taking off from red light)
I was noticing that my wet traction was getting really poor. More recently, my dry traction was poor too. Then I got a "low tire pressure" warning. I thought I picked up a nail, but when we took off the wheel, the tire was almost bald. Had to get something in stock, so this time I got the Hankook Ventus V12 evo. We'll see how that goes. So far, it's hard to test traction when the battery is low. (as for fronts, still on second set of A048's)�
Aug 15, 2012
Doug_G After running AD08's on the rears for a while now, I have one additional comment. If you floor it from a standstill, the AD08's often produce one little chirp as you accelerate. The original AD07's didn't do that, even if the wheels did slip a little. However, I can see no other performance differences.�
Aug 15, 2012
cinergi mm, yeah now that you mention it, I agree. I do chirp the tires on occasion especially if I'm turning from standstill and flooring it.�
Aug 15, 2012
jory i recently got a rear flat tire on the SF bay bridge. ended up opting for the michelin pilot super sports. after a few hundred miles they are doing great.�
Aug 16, 2012
btown I put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the rear a while back, so I figure it's time to give an update. Please see my previous posts in this thread regarding traction control so you'll understand what I have to say next. I'm still running the original Yokos on the front, so the rear tires are .1" larger than they should be. I ran the calculations to determine what amount of tread wear would be required to get to the point where the rear tire size was what the Roadster expected (again, read up on my previous posts regarding TC). According to my calculations, that point would be 20% tread wear. So I've been watching for the startup TC issue to go away, because it will be a decent indicator of 20% tread wear. So far I've put about 4500 miles on these tires and the startup TC issue is still present, but just marginally. So I am confident that I'm just starting to get closer to the 20% wear point. At this rate, I'm estimating these tires may last as long as 25,000 miles (5X the point where the TC issue totally disappears).
Overall I continue to be pleased with these tires. They are sticky enough to launch without TC in most reasonably flat dry pavement situations. I would NOT be willing to give that up! Where I notice the biggest difference is in cornering. The AD07s and AD08s rarely broke loose and even when they did, they didn't really squeal and tended to grab again fairly quickly. The Michelins will squeal on fairly aggressive cornering and definitely break out much sooner than the Yokos. Fortunately, after putting over 13K miles on the Roadster, my juvenile desires to push corners really hard have faded and I've settled down into a more reasonable driving manner. I still do full on launches regularly, but I just don't try to nail the corners... especially now that I'm not running the Yokos. I don't track the car, so I feel very comfortable with the new limits I have on cornering. It's a small sacrifice for not having to replace the rear tires every 6-7K miles and in the end, I may actually be safer than before. Now I know fairly well where the cornering limit is. With the Yokos, I tended to be way overconfident because it took so much to break them loose.
I really like this thread! I never would have tried these tires if I didn't read about them here. Thanks all!�
Aug 16, 2012
Tesla 940 Thread Depth Measurement
Curious why you don't just buy a thread depth measurement tool - they are only a couple bucks - and stop "guessing".
Like you I like this thread so I know what tires to buy. I'm only on my first replacement set - Toyo's. The Michelin's sound like a good option for my current type of driving.�
Aug 16, 2012
dj905 Michelin Pilot Super Sports
After burning through three sets of AD07s on the rear (@47,000km), I decided to make a change. I switched to the Super Sports on the rear a week ago, and so far they are great. For the front tires, I still have the original AD07s. I am not seeing any issues with TC on either acceleration or regen. I have also noticed some improvement in energy economy in highway driving (seems to be at least 5%), and I will keep an eye on this to see if it continues.
Thanks to others on the thread for suggesting these tires.
David
Radiant Red 909�
Aug 16, 2012
hcsharp I've also noticed an increase in range with the Mich Pilot Super Sports of at least 5% and more like 10% or more when it's raining. The tires are lighter and have lower rolling resistance than the Yoko's.
Wow my experience is just the opposite. After 5,000 miles I'm almost at the wear bars. They aren't wearing as unevenly as augkio's tires that he corded but I'll be surprised if I get 8,000 miles out of them. I'm kind of disappointed with the tread life but they're guaranteed for 15,000 miles so maybe I'll get some money back. I didn't think I drove that aggressively!
Once again, my experience is just the opposite (except I agree about the launch performance and squeal). I find it virtually impossible to break the rear tires loose before the front AD07s. I don't find them to have any less grip whatsoever in corners compared to the AD07. There is a very slight difference when you first turn the wheel but not much. The ultimate cornering grip is very strong and predictable. When it's wet, they're stronger than the AD07.�
Aug 16, 2012
Vger Hmmm, sounds like you could have an alignment issue. Perhaps excessive toe-in. Guys up here in the Pacific NW commented on that on our local email list.�
Aug 16, 2012
hcsharp That's possible but the tires are wearing evenly across the tread. I'm about to have the alignment checked.�
Aug 17, 2012
btown Good point Tesla 940. Never trust theory and mathematics without verifying with direct measurement! Although I did like the idea of being able to monitor from the comfort of the drivers seat. I think I'll take your advice and go buy one though, since the Roadster is requiring me to keep an eye on tire wear like no other vehicle I've owned.
Ok, I don't have a gauge yet but I did take a quick measurement of the tread depth which I think is about as accurate as I can get without having a gauge in hand at the moment. It turns out I'm at about the 50% point rather than the 20% wear point which I had hoped. I also checked my actual miles on these tires and it's 4,600 miles (I was only off by 100 miles).
So I would like to officially restate my estimate for the Michelin Pilot Super Sports to be around 9,200 miles. I'm sure I'll run them down until all wear bands are hit all the way across, so I'm now estimating I may be able to get somewhere around 10K miles. The warranty will help in that regard, so I'm still pleases with the tires overall.
Now.... Anyone have any theories on why I still have a slight startup (first few minutes of drive) TC issue??? The tires were supposed to be just .1" larger in diameter than the stock tires. With 1/4" of wear so far, the tires now have 1/2" trimmed off the original diameter. So these tires (in theory) are now 24.5" diameter vs the stock tires which start out at 24.9". Yet I still see a slight startup TC issue. Hmmmm.....�
Aug 17, 2012
Talkredius hmm, at least in Germany it is legal to have the bigger size 195/50 R16 on the front wheels with Standard Roadster and standard rims.
For this size you'll get here the Michelin Pilot Sport 3, for the rear tires I also have the Michelin Pilot Sport 3
The MPSS are not available in Germany for the size 225/40 R17. I will let my brother dig deeper, he owns a tire shop. So may be I'll get them soon to see if there is a difference in performance
As I'm more a long distance guy I have the Michelin Energy Saver on the front wheels.
For winter tires the Michelin Alpine 4 are my absolute favorite. Last winter I drove 25.000 km with one tire set, according to the wear bars I could have driven 3.000 km ... 5.000 km more.
I was really surprised.�
Aug 17, 2012
btown Please see my revised estimate of 10K miles in my recent post. Still though, it looks like I'll get double the mileage you are getting. My Roadster is a 1.5, but I don't see how that would change anything significantly. It will be nice to hear of others experiences with the MPSS tires since it sounds like we now have a few Roadsters out there giving them a whirl.�
Aug 18, 2012
frequencydip The tire size you are referring to is the installed diamater of the tire from the manufacture when installed on a industry standard rim with no load. Tires when installed on different rims are always different sizes on every rim mostly based on rim with as tire have a range of rim sizes they can fit on. But every rim also has slightly different characteristics in the lip, width and its own diameter.
You can measure your tires diameter and see where you are in the spec, use one of the measuring tapes tailors use.�
Aug 18, 2012
smorgasbord FWIW, I just crossed 8K miles on my AD08 rears. Previous to that I fell just shy of 6K miles on my original AD07 rears (worn to no tread on right rear).
I believe I'm driving about the same aggressiveness. I still floor it at lights, and even did Laguna Seca on the AD08s.
And the 08s were about $100 cheaper than the replacement 07s.
So, for me, definitely a tastes great, less filling choice.�
Aug 18, 2012
jerry33 Well, that was certainly true for bias ply tires. For steel belted radial tires the belt determines the RPM of the tire. This won't be changed by altering the rim width. Note that the overall diameter of the tire cannot be used to determine the RPM of the tire. You have to look at the manufacturer's specifications to find the RPM of both tires and use that as a comparison.�
Aug 20, 2012
btown Interesting point regarding the belt determining the RPM. I just ran the calculations and the ration of stated diameter does not match the ratio of the revs per mile. According to the revs, the diameters are about .04" different instead of .1". There's obviously a lot more going on here than my simple diameter or revs calculations are able to predict. Especially since I continue to see some minor startup TC even with 1/2 of my tread worn. I never would have guessed tires were so complex!�
Aug 20, 2012
jerry33 The book we can write about what we don't know about tires is quite a bit larger than the book we can write about what we know about them.�
Aug 24, 2012
jory and
i recently bought a pair of MPSSs for my 2.0 roadster and just registered the tires with michelin in case i could use the 15K mileage warranty.
however, reading the warranty, i am wondering if it actually applies in our use case.
from http://www.michelinman.com/mediabin/Approved/Michelin/Visuals/Digital/limited_mileage_warranties.pdf
Mileage warranties apply to tires that come as original equipment on model year 2011 and later vehicles. Some vehicles come from the vehicle manufacturer with �split fitments� � meaning different size tires on the front and rear axles. Because these tires cannot be rotated as recommended by Michelin, the mileage warranty on each rear tire will cover half the number of miles as the standard mileage warranty for that particular tire design.
?
emphasis mine, which suggests to me that the warranty would not apply to a 2010 car or (more importantly) any car that did not come with the tire as original equipment from the manufacturer.
is my reading of the warranty correct, or am i somehow mistaken? has anyone successfully used the mileage warranty? thanks!�
Aug 24, 2012
jerry33 Actually, it doesn't matter. Mileage warranties are a sales tool to get you to purchase a second set of tires. If you read the warranty carefully, you'll see that it's based on the MSRP of the tire. An example:
MSRP of tire $100 (hey, I like easy numbers)
Street price $75 - $80
Amount of miles short: 20% (almost all tires get at least 80% of the rated milage unless the alignment is bad or they are driven hard--both of which are causes to void the warranty)
Cost of new tire under warranty: $80.�
Aug 24, 2012
hcsharp Hmmm... I'm not a lawyer but does that mean it only covers OEM tires? Or only covers tires that are used as OEM on any vehicles, even if not yours? The MPSS certainly is OEM on a number of other cars model yr 2011 and later. If you read further, it implies that tread wear is covered on replacement winter tires. Also, the Michelin Promise Plan states that the tread wear warranty covers replacement tires with this statement:
I'll find out in a few weeks. I'm a couple hundred miles from the wear bars on the right side. If that.
- - - Updated - - -
Here's a link to the real warranty.
http://www.michelinman.com/mediabin/Approved/Michelin/Visuals/Digital/Owners%20Manual_Post_Promise_Plan.pdf
It clearly applies to replacement tires. A few things caught my attention:
WHAT IS NOT COVERED
This warranty does not cover tires damaged due to misuse, abuse or accident such as:
� Uneven or rapid wear which is caused by mechanical irregularity in the
vehicle such as wheel misalignment, (a measured tread difference of
2/32nds of an inch or more across the tread on the same tire);?
WRT the pro-rated amount, it is based on the lower of the current selling price at the retailer you go to, or the Michelin base price ($323 in this case).
I'll have to measure and see if I'm more than 2/32nds of an inch difference across the tread but it looks pretty even.�
Aug 25, 2012
jerry33 Often there are two separate warranties: One for OE tires and one for replacement tires. I see you found the all-inclusive one.�
Aug 27, 2012
jordanthompson I am SOOOOoooooo confused! There are many "sport" tires that will fit on the back wheels, which one to choose? Obviously safety comes first, then performance, price, etc. I don't race my car (much
Any suggestions?�
Aug 27, 2012
ChadS No feedback on the G-Force; but in post 310 in this thread I give some thoughts on the Proxes 4. Cheap, last twice as long as the AD07, and smoother and quieter. But surprisingly did not seem better in bad weather; and while grip is usually fine on a dry road, sometimes TC will turn on even with a base Roadster in normal mode.
If you want great grip all the time, try AD07 in the summer (or Proxes 4 if you can give up a little grip for a lot of money), and Continental Extreme Contact DWS in winter. (I'm sure there are other tires that work too; those are just the ones I've been happy with in those conditions).�
Aug 27, 2012
Doug_G For street tires I use AD08's on the rear. They're the new version of the AD07, and are significantly less expensive than AD07, have good grip, and they appear to wear well. I punch it all the time and they do a good job. Even did a drag race with them recently.
I run them with AD07's on the front because AD08 isn't available in the size needed for the front.�
Aug 27, 2012
dsm363 No problems mixing kinds of tires then? I'd read some people were concerned about that but that probably only matters in extreme circumstances.�
Aug 27, 2012
ChadS I've heard mixing AD07 and AD08 isn't a big deal, but haven't tried it myself.
When I had AD07 on the front and something different on the rear (Proxes 4 or Continental ExtremeContact DWS), the car was definitely more squirrelly on freeway ruts. It was pretty annoying at first, but I got used to it. I didn't notice any other issues, but then I don't stress the tires other than accelerating in a straight line. Putting Continentals all around made that problem go away.�
Aug 27, 2012
ggr Of course I keep matched pairs, but I've had no trouble mixing different fronts/rears.�
Aug 27, 2012
strider I'm running Proxes 4's and I'm happy w/ them. My car is a daily driver so I needed longer life than the AD07's. There is less grip in general than the AD07's (there's no free lunch) but if they're warm they work quite well.�
Aug 27, 2012
dsm363 Yes, thanks. Good to know. That's what I meant to say, same tires in front and different set in rear.�
Aug 27, 2012
Doug_G Tesla doesn't recommend it, but in my experience they won't recommend anything that isn't stock. They said that the traction control might not like it; however, in the case of AD07/AD08 I can see absolutely no evidence of that, and I've been running them for a while now.�
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