Jan 7, 2013
dtich so, by "old data", do you imply that the 12v warning eventually cleared up and came to naught, or did you have a battery issue?
thx.�
Jan 7, 2013
Zapped There wasn't any bump or jiggle at the time this happened and I don't think my passenger touched the inside door handle. I assume the sensitivity can be set with software. Interestingly you need to pull twice on the inside door handle on my BMW for the door to open. ( for added safety no doubt )�
Jan 7, 2013
ckessel My understanding is the sensors don't detect very well in the back of the car. For instance, I was warned not to put my key in a backpack and throw it in the trunk as the car won't see it and lock the key in the car. If I approach the rear of the car it generally doesn't autodetect, but coming from the front it usually does (though sometimes it won't detect until I get near the actual front door).
So, yea, you have to walk up to the door first and backtrack to the charger. Or click the fob.�
Jan 7, 2013
lolachampcar Zapped,
The BMW is first pull to unlock and second to open the door. I too thought is a bit strange.�
Jan 7, 2013
brianman By old I meant "not newest firmware version". Note that my 12V warning disappeared seconds after sitting in the vehicle and I began the update to 4.1 moments later, so I won't have hard data on how transient that warning was w/ 4.0 vs. a fix with 4.1 update.�
Jan 7, 2013
smd Stability Control Disabled and Air Suspension Needs Service
I posted this at Telsamotors.com, but wanted to share it here as well.
I picked up my Model S 85 at the Fremont factory in mid-December and everything was well for the first week or so. Then these two warnings popped up on my screen and dash: 1) Stability Control Disabled 2) Air Suspension Needs Service. The car still seemed to drive fine and my manual changes to the air suspension while parked seemed to be as expected. I also upgraded from 4.0 to 4.1 software as it was pushed to me, but those warnings were still present. But it was now Christmas Eve, so I had to wait until the 27th to bring the car back to the Fremont Service Center. While I was there, I also had asked them to look at the chrome window trim on the driver side rear door which was misaligned with the rest of the trim as well as the hood, which had a significant gap with the front fascia when fully closed. A quick look at some of the cars coming off the factory line and getting tested at the service center showed that mine did have more of a gap.
After waiting 3 hours at the service center (watching a movie on my ipad), the techs and engineers weren't sure what was wrong to cause those 2 warnings, which was the first time any of them had seen those particular warnings. They wanted to keep the car for a few days, so they paid for an Enterprise rent a car, which I kept for 2 days only as I was leaving on vacation. Tesla would have covered a rental for the whole repair period had I wanted it. After about 3-4 days, it was discovered that a faulty YAW SENSOR was causing the service warning. That was replaced and the warnings are gone. I took BART to go retrieve my car and a courtesy shuttle was sent for me, although it was a bit disappointing that the driver just drove his own Ford F150 pickup. Everything was covered under warranty and my car was washed charged up to a standard charge for me. I did find that my homelink programming and my driver profiles were wiped out when I got my car back. My internet favorites were also gone. However, all my audio favorites and bluetooth pairings were still intact.
Overall, it was good experience with service and they were able to figure it out and repair it. It wasn't too much of an inconvenience as they provided the rental and i was out of town on vacation anyway.�
Jan 8, 2013
lolachampcar For a completely new effort, Tesla seems to have put a lot of energy into the service side to make sure the cars are properly supported.�
Jan 8, 2013
Suzieq Makes me wonder if there's a way to back up your stuff so you can restore easily... But the homelink, probably no way to restore that.�
Jan 8, 2013
rick325 I know this is late, but +1!
Is there a way to know if the OP Wiki post has been updated?�
Jan 8, 2013
radinator smd, Were they able to address the gap between the hood and the front fascia? I noticed that I have a good sized gap between the hood and the right front headlight vs. the left front headlight, and was planning on taking it in to see if they can fix it. Thanks.�
Jan 8, 2013
bbmertz I have the same issue and plan to point it out when I bring it into the service center tomorrow. I'll let you know if they are able to do anything to fix this gap.�
Jan 8, 2013
stevezzzz I call it the Tesla Two-Step: walk up to the charger port, sidestep toward the rear driver side door to make the car sense the fob in my left front pocket, sidestep back to the charger port, unlock charging cord, remove. It would be easier if I was right handed, though. :wink:�
Jan 8, 2013
Russell B Rear door handle doesn't work from outside
I parked and attempted to open the driver side door to allow my grandson to get out in the garage. It was solid as a rock and would not open. I tried any number of things but no help. I called Tesla and they believe it is a faulty handle mechanism. Anyone else have the same problem?�
Jan 8, 2013
Blurry_Eyed I had a similar thing happen as well. After the problem, I rebooted the touch screen (Hold both left and right steering wheel scroll wheels down for a maybe 15-30 seconds to do so) and the center instrument display (hold both left and right hard buttons above the scroll wheels for up to a minute). Initially that didn't seem to help, but I parked the car and left it for a while. When I came back, the rear exterior door worked fine (my car actually had problems with both passenger side doors).
You might try a reboot and then let the car sit for awhile (I think mine took about an hour to finally reset).�
Jan 8, 2013
dtich my moves exactly, luckily am right handed.�
Jan 8, 2013
Russell B I have talked to tech and this problem isn't uncommon. They said the failure can be intermittent. By the way, the handle light doesn't work. Don't know if that means something.
Thanks so much, I'll try the reboot.�
Jan 8, 2013
dflye That is the exact problem I had (handle extends / retracts, but light doesn't come on, door cannot be opened from outside, only inside handle releases door latch)
From looking at it a bit closer, it seemed the handle was a tiny bit out of alignment compared with the other handles (not extending as much, somewhat obstructing the tiny light, a little more recessed on one end when retracted)
So while the problem may be intermittent, it potentially can stay in the 'busted' mode for weeks at a time.And if you aren't anywhere near a service center (several hundred miles away for me until one in Raleigh opens hopefully this spring), it may be a while before you can readily get it fixed.
At least, that is how mine behaved, it stopped working in early December, then magically started cooperating again on Christmas Day :biggrin: (go figure)�
Jan 8, 2013
FlasherZ I do more of a front-step then side-step, by approaching the rear door then step to the right. More suitable for 3/4 timing.
- - - Updated - - -
Ugh. I hope they make more efforts to preserve that in the future. One of my Homelink settings requires me to bring my boom truck into the machine shop so I can hit the magic purple button on the big door's opener.�
Jan 8, 2013
pete8314 That's lame. My last 4 or 5 cars all pop the trunk if the keys are in there to prevent being locked out of the car. I though that feature was more or less standard on all 'keyless entry' cars. Presumably the fabled mobile app will allow for remote locking/unlocking.�
Jan 9, 2013
mfcnova My Front and Rear bumper covers don't match the body paint as closely as I would expect. Has anyone else had the same problem? My friend has a Signature Model S and there isn't a noticeable difference. I sent Tesla this picture yesterday.
�
Jan 9, 2013
bonnie Beautiful color, stunning car - but in the pic, it does look different. Let us know the resolution.�
Jan 9, 2013
mfcnova I resized the original photo in MS Paint. The photo properties are below.
Oops.
I haven't received a response from Tesla. I sent the photo yesterday.�
Jan 9, 2013
jomo25 I think he meant "resolution" as in how this issue is resolved between you and Tesla.�
Jan 9, 2013
bonnie << she.
And yes, that's what she meant.�
Jan 9, 2013
jomo25 Oops, sorry! I knew that. Just forgot who it was since the post was on the last page!�
Jan 9, 2013
ckessel I've got the grey and my bumper/body are an exact match. Yours is almost two-tone :crying: and I really hope Tesla takes action for you quickly. Given how visible that is, I'm not sure how that sort of mismatch escapes the factory.�
Jan 9, 2013
GeekGirls I suspect they aren't even looking for it. During the factory tour they made a big deal of using the same paint batch for all parts of a vehicle, aluminum and plastic. Once you think you have a problem solved you tend to stop worrying about it. Obviously that's not the case for mfcnova's vehicle and Tesla should definitely be interested in what happened.�
Jan 9, 2013
lolachampcar I do not want to be harsh here but at least one Tesla employee drove the car through the test track (cars delivered with 22 miles or so on the odo). Is the problem only visible outdoors?�
Jan 9, 2013
kishdude Definitely does look different, but it may also be worse in the sun and depending on the angle of the sun. Note how your rearview mirror also looks the same shade as the bumper.�
Jan 9, 2013
steve841 Looks like a silver fascia added to a grey car.�
Jan 9, 2013
dtich yeah, that's totally wrong, somethin not right. they'll fix that i'm sure. weird.�
Jan 9, 2013
ElSupreme This is exactly what I was thinking.�
Jan 9, 2013
MikeK Hmmm. I didn't notice it in your pictures on the delivery update thread, but now that you've pointed it out, I do see it.
The plastic parts of the car are painted on a separate line from the metal parts of the car. I'm sure Tesla has processes in place to ensure a good match between the paint shot on those two lines, but it does seem as if something strange has happened here. Perhaps there was a part substitution that resulted in your plastics coming from a different paint batch than originally planned, for example.
I've seen the Dolphin Grey in other contexts, and I have not noticed any issue with the color match. I think you're right to raise the issue with Tesla.�
Jan 9, 2013
mfcnova It is more noticeable in sunlight, the delivery photos were taken on an overcast day.
- - - Updated - - -
I also had a paint flaw on the trunk, near the driver side indicator that wasn't caught at the factory.
�
Jan 9, 2013
radinator I had the same problem less than a week after getting the car. The driver's door handle would extend, but the light was out and you could not open the door. It was a faulty mechanism and had to be replaced. Odd thing was it stopped working after I applied the 4.0 update. Supposedly that had nothing to do with it, but just something I thought I would mention.�
Jan 9, 2013
kinddog perhaps we shouldn't start a new thread every time a one-off thing happens with the car.
sporadic unresponsive door-handles has been extensively covered elsewhere.
[mod note: posts merged into this thread. b.]�
Jan 9, 2013
JimO S1873 This is a follow up to my two previous posts #647 on 12/19/12 and #953 on 1/2/13.
- The issue with the passenger door opening on its own when I parked and then not working just after that and at one other time. Tesla service informed me that they have had a total of three complaints of this including mine and in all cases have just swapped out the handle.
- The issue of the dreaded black screen that numerous people have mentioned could not be duplicated. As I stated in my post on January 2[SUP]nd[/SUP], it has been booting up fine since January 1[SUP]st[/SUP].
- I had an issue of bubbles in the paint armor in the front nose area that the service team took care of by contacting the warranty department who sent someone down to replaced it.
- I also had stains in the lower rocker under the doors on one side of the car. They couldn�t get them to buff out so they replaced the rocker.
- I also had the problem that many people have stated about the sunroof sticking and therefore taking a double click to get it to open. The service didn�t want to see rely on it just being a software issue and was proactive. They ordered new seals and reset the glass behind the sunroof where it was getting caught on. Since then I haven�t had an issue with it.
I must say that I'm very impressed with the quality of service from the Los Angeles service department. Thank you Dave & Vince for answering all of my concerns.
One thing that I haven�t seen in any blogs is something that I noticed when I�m charging my car. I have the dual charger and am using a NEMA 14-50 outlet. I noticed when charging that the small display will show the current charge rate such as �20 miles/hr�. I then noticed that the big center display stated the same charge rate �20 miles/hr� however just under it is stated �+15 miles�. I inquired about this and was informed that the extra 15 was the bonus that I was getting from the dual charger. I�m glad that I paid the extra for the quicker charge.�
Jan 9, 2013
MikeK I thought the +15 miles display was the amount of range you had gained since plugging in.�
Jan 9, 2013
qwk This cannot be true, as the charging rate from a 14-50 is limited by the safe current that one can pull from the outlet, not the charger.�
Jan 9, 2013
FlasherZ This is correct.�
Jan 9, 2013
jomo25 A pic would help to confirm, but I believe it is as others above stated.�
Jan 9, 2013
cinergi Goodness that's incorrect! That's the number of miles put into the car since the charging session started. You don't see anything special for dual chargers. You'll simply see a higher amperage. But you'll only get this on an EVSE providing more than 40A of current (e.g. the HPC).�
Jan 9, 2013
artsci Agree. There's no benefit having the dual charger with a 40-50 amp feed. It charges at the same rate as a single charger, 31 miles an hour. You need the HPWC, dual chargers, and at least an 80 amp feed to get 62 mile rate.�
Jan 9, 2013
smd They were able to improve it but not completely get rid of the gap. Originally I had over 1 cm gap along the front right and left corners of the hood. That was reduced to about 0.5 cm, so it's completely flush, but definitely better. It does require a little more force now to close the hood.�
Jan 9, 2013
pete8314 The weird thing is that they shouldn't have that amount of variance between paint batches, period. It's possible we're over sensitized to it now that its been pointed out in the photo, but to me, the bumper is a shade of silver, not grey. If my whole car was the color of the bumper, I'd be very disappointed. I'm sure they'll fix it, but, the QC out of the factory seems to have really, really suffered with the end of year push. Mismatches like this, and the mixed up interior trims do not require an expert to spot.�
Jan 9, 2013
mfcnova Tesla contacted me Wednesday evening via telephone. They agreed that there is a problem and that they will send someone to look at the car.�
Jan 9, 2013
jhs_7645
As others have mentioned up-thread, it looks like the bumper from a silver car, it probably isn't that noticeable because it's mostly in the shadow of the car.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD�
Jan 9, 2013
MikeK The silver and the Dolphin Grey don't look very similar to each other in person. I can't imagine that anybody could miss that. Keep in mind that the car is in sunlight in these photos, and the Dolphin Grey paint becomes dramatically lighter in sunlight than when it is in shadow. It may be that the plastics have a bit more metal flake in the paint, so they're lightening more when the sun hits them.�
Jan 10, 2013
kishdude Glad they are doing this. I just looked at the other pics you have posted from your delivery etc and you can definitely see the difference in color on front and rear bumpers even in the shade.�
Jan 10, 2013
yobigpapa anybody seen the error "key no longer in car. car will not restart" (or something close to that) even though the key is still sitting in my pocket? this has happened three times (and then gone away after a few minutes). no impact yet. i have never had any problems with the handles coming out, unlocking or allowing me to start the car. on 4.1.�
Jan 10, 2013
NigelM Welcome to TMC!
This happened to me once or twice but I realized that the key was being hidden behind my phone. Keeping them in separate pockets fixed the problem. If you have a bulky jacket or similar, Tesla recommends putting the key in the drinks holder as the optimal position.�
Jan 10, 2013
kishdude Happens all the time when I have my iPhone in the same pocket as the key. Also happens in my other cars with keyless entry as well.�
Jan 10, 2013
efusco For the first time ever, my "Since Last Charge" didn't reset after charging. No way to manually reset it that I can tell either.�
Jan 10, 2013
Todd Burch Tesla service dropped by my house Tuesday night to close out the punch list of items that I had since delivery. Here's my report:
1. As people have said, the service was OUTSTANDING. Pete (a former gold star Porsche mechanic) came to my house around 7pm to look at my items. Despite the late hour (and knowing that he had a two hour drive ahead of him), he was happy to sit and answer all of my questions and thoroughly investigate all of my issues. He even took part of the car apart for me so I could see the guts.
2. One of the issues had to do with my fog lights. As it turns out, the fog light wire harness wasn't even plugged in! No WONDER I couldn't see them working! Pete made short work of fixing that. He says he knows exactly what happened. Apparently, when the nose cone design changed, a few of the original design noses were going on later cars, which Tesla wanted to keep only for sigs (or something like that--didn't get that entire story). When they noticed this, they had the original noses removed and replaced with the new ones. Apparently my car was one of these. It seems as though when they replaced the nose, they unplugged the fog light wire harness but failed to plug it back in! MORAL OF THE STORY: Check your fog lights to make sure they're working. The car doesn't need to be in drive. Just turn on your headlights, make sure the fogs are on, and check your lights!
3. Many of us were having difficulty closing the passenger door. I was one of them. This is NOT an alignment issue. It is indeed a pressure issue, and is due to the fact that the cabin is so well sealed. When you close the passenger door, the pressure builds up between the inner and outer seals, making the car difficult to close. (This also explains why it's still difficult with the driver's window open, which you think would alleviate the pressure. It's not due to pressure in the cabin, but BETWEEN the inner and outer door seals on the passenger side.
On the bottom of the passenger door, you'll find a round plug. Remove it and put it into the glove compartment. That should fix the issue, at least for now. BTW: This is an "unofficial" fix. I'm doing it because it fixed the problem. YMMV. (Note: I did not notice an increase in cabin noise after removing this plug).
4. My pano roof was also sticking. Pete lubed up the pano roof, and opened/closed it about 6 times. It fixed the problem, at least temporarily. The next day, the roof wouldn't open on the first command. But later in the day, it did. I'm going to hold off on this one to see if a software fix solves the issue.
5. On delivery, I had some sort of sticky adhesive on the driver/passenger windows. Wouldn't come off with glass cleaner, and barely came off scraping hard with fingernails. Pete used Purple Power on it, and after sufficient scrubbing, cleaned it off!
In short, my issues are all fixed (with the exception of the pano roof) and Tesla service was ABSOLUTELY AWESOME.
Almost 1000 miles. Drives like a dream!�
Jan 10, 2013
Super Gizmo We had several problems with the car from day one -
- Right front door had to be slammed hard and it popped open on its own on one occasion.
- Car needed front end alignment and the steering wheel was installed off center.
- Rear hatch and Right front door needed adjustments (they had uneven gaps)
- Tilt wheel made a loud snapping sound when coming down from the highest position.
- Windshield washers were hitting too low.
The good news is after two trips to Fremont service dept. they were able to fix all the problems except for the tilt wheel. It still makes a snapping sound. Hopefully if it totally breaks down, it will happen under the warranty period. The bad news is I have a new problem with the climate control going haywire on manual setting (I don't use Auto). If I set the temp. to Lo it goes up to 78 or 80 on its own. Sometimes the reverse happens and if I set the temp. to 78 0r 80 it suddenly goes down to Lo on its own. I also have the problem of the charge cord not wanting to go into the port although the door handles are in out position. However if I open the door then it goes in. The $1000 sound system upgrade is junk. I can not even tune into local AM stations without static.
I enjoy driving the car but so far it feels like an expensive guinea pig with more problems than any new car I have ever owned and I have owned several BMWs and MBZs etc.! So much for Elon Musk's promise of building the "best car in the world". Now all theTSLA stockholders and EV fanatics are going to jump all over me. By the way whatever happened to Tesla's promise of replacement lighted mirrors, sunshade etc. I haven't heard a word about it anywhere.�
Jan 10, 2013
Todd Burch With the exception of the climate control (which sounds like a software thing that can be fixed in a future update), I wouldn't put up with any of this. It sounds like you and I have entirely different cars--my issues have been very minor. Are you an early sig? Sounds like you have a lemon. Insist that these issues be fixed. If Tesla refuses to fix them, I'd explore your state's lemon laws.�
Jan 10, 2013
MikeK It doesn't matter whether it happens during the warranty period or not, so long as you have a written record that you reported a problem with it during the warranty period. If the problem was reported while it was under warranty, but not fixed, then the fix is owed to you.
I disagree with you that the sound system is "junk". It's among the better-sounding car systems I've ever tried. I agree that the reception is not as good as I think it should be. They need to do some work on that front.
I'm sure you're disappointed and frustrated, but I must tell you that I have not had problems with my doors, charge port, steering wheel, alignment, climate control, or wiper sweep. It sounds to me like you have an unusually large number of quality problems that absolutely should not happen, and must be addressed, but which do not reflect the level of quality of cars that most people are receiving.
There are certainly some common problems, like the sticking roof, the funky automatic wipers and the difficulty with the passenger door (I have the former two, not the latter). I had a problem with the sunroof that I believe nobody else has reported here. It seems as they have a couple of common problems which are being worked on, and many cars have one or two squawks at or shortly after delivery. Tesla needs to do a better job of inspection on the cars coming off the line, and they need to address those common problems if they hope to have a good reputation in the long term. But the car is not of poor quality overall. It's very good.
As for the replacement visors with better mirrors, I assume that it takes time to spool up a supply chain for something like that. Since there is a viable temporary solution, I would expect that their focus has been on delivering the third row seats (which are finally starting to come), the parcel shelf, the HPWCs (which are also just starting to come). These are all "due bill" items that people have paid for and not received at all. Plus, there's the opportunity console, which many more people have complained about than the visors.�
Jan 10, 2013
White Thanks... the mirrors were set... then lost the settings. I reprogrammed them and they work now... thanks for the help. Hope the sunroof bug fix comes out soon.�
Jan 11, 2013
drrreza Homelink issue
Originally Posted by fizzazle
Not sure if anyone else was having a hard time with their homelink setup.
If you are not having luck with the homelink....open up your frunk and place the garage/gate opener in the frunk and hold down the button.
When i did this, the headlights flashed almost immediately.
Apparently the sensor is inside the frunk and sometimes the signal doesn't penetrate through the bumper from the outside. (the on screen instructions tell you to point the garage door opener directly at the bumper).
Hope that helps!�
Jan 11, 2013
waidy @MikeK: Would you be so kind to tell us what the temporary solution for the visors? I would love to make my S's visors function as visor.�
Jan 11, 2013
mfcnova UPDATE
Mr. Blankenship contacted me via email yesterday and after sending him photos of the car he told me that the bumpers will be replaced. He was very apologetic and told me that he wanted to ensure this would not happen again. I have also be contacted by Service Advisor from the Rockville, MD service center.
I am happy with how quickly the problem was addressed and impressed with how much internal visibility it was given. I didn't expect Mr. Blankenship to get involved. Tesla rocks!
- - - Updated - - -
It happens to me daily. I just check my pocket for the key and then I ignore the warning.
- - - Updated - - -
The same thing happened to me yesterday morning. This morning the "Since Last Charge" was reset.�
Jan 11, 2013
pete8314 That's great. It's the right thing to do, of course, but it's still very refreshing to see that Tesla are doing the best they can. I'm picking up a new car for my wife tonight which we've not yet seen, but of course it's from a regular dealer, so if there's an issue, they fix it. Tesla doesn't quite have this luxury, so it good to see the effort going in to prove the legacy dealer model isn't the only option when buying cars.�
Jan 11, 2013
efusco Mine was reset normally this morning too.�
Jan 11, 2013
teslasguy Just unplugged my car and got in to take my wife for dr appt. dreaded 12v battery alert popped up and says replace 12v battery soon. I was already aware that this is happening to a lot of people but was hoping I could escape this problem. Talked to my service mgr and he said I should be good for a few days and he will come to my house to replace the battery or I can bring it in when I get a chance. I also know this battery is a real pain to get to for replacement. Just hope it doesn't die on me before I can get it in for new battery. Sure hope they figure out what's causing this problem soon. Don't want to be replacing the battery every month or two!
P1117 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk�
Jan 11, 2013
Todd Burch What software version are you on? Is this happening to anyone with 1.19.31 (v4.1)?�
Jan 11, 2013
jomo25 I agree with the suggestion made previously that posts describing issues encountered should include the firmware version running.�
Jan 11, 2013
teslasguy I'm running 4.1
P1117 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk�
Jan 11, 2013
Dborn It is quite clear that Elon is no longer "walking the line" to ensure quality control. Those issues should NEVER have left the factory! This is a serious breakdown in quality control and probably related to the imperative to get cars out the door by years end. In fact most of the fit/finish problems being reported seem to be on cars recently out of the door or more accurately, December assembly. For the "best car in the world" this is not acceptable and it is entirely appropriate that senior management is involved. The Quality control manager needs to be on the carpet for this with his feet VERY close to a roaring fire!!�
Jan 11, 2013
gmontem Just sat in my car after a long day of work and was greeted with a "Car needs service. Car may stop unexpectedly" warning. WTF!?
And these warnings disappear faster than I can read them. Good thing it showed up twice. These warnings ought to be duplicated in the 17" console somewhere.
Firmware: v4.1 (1.19.31)
Sent from my Nokia Lumia 920 using Board Express�
Jan 11, 2013
pilotSteve I've seen this as a transient message. Probably it's a 12v battery 'false warning' but you should call Tesla roadside service and they will remote diagnose the problem. Likely justa glitch but you can find out for sure by having remote diagnosis of your car. They might push a SW update to you early depending on the situation. Calling has been very helpful for me.�
Jan 11, 2013
Brian H Just a WAG, but that sounds like part of the start/boot sequence getting ahead of itself and other sub-systems and then correcting itself when the other(s) catch up.�
Jan 11, 2013
brianman There should also be a log of them (think Event Viewer in Windows, but without a bazillion entries). Good suggestion to mail ownership@. Nudge, nudge.�
Jan 11, 2013
Chgd Up Sadly still going without doors and windows on the passenger side. I waited for a while for the update that was not to be, due to the roll out halt and went into to service to see what they could do.
They were very helpful as usual. They switched the car into diagnostic mode using the key fob and the steering buttons and found that my RHS handles were not sending any signals at all, so definitely not software and too coincidental that they both failed simultaneously. They concluded it could be a wiring harness problem and ordered a harness. It will be a few days until it arrives. They had seen a similar problem with one of their demo cars.
At least they didn't take my car away and it should only take a couple of hours to replace.
I did find out the hard way you can drive away with out your key in the car when I got stranded.�
Jan 11, 2013
ckessel I'll echo the desire for some sort of error log I can check on the center console.
Twice this week some warning has flashed up on the driver's console as I got into the car then gone away so quickly I couldn't read it. I'd like to know what it was...�
Jan 11, 2013
Jeff Krueger Got our P85 (VIN P02975) on Wednesday and have been loving it!
The wife and I noticed that with the volume all the way off, there is a faint static noise in the cabin. Turned on the stereo and could still here it with low volume, once you turn up the stereo it drowns out the static but I suspect its still there. I haven't noticed it at all times.
Has anyone else encountered this? I hesitate to stop by San Diego Service until I know how to replicate it. It's pretty minor, but when moving at slow speed the car is so quiet that it is distracting.
Thanks!�
Jan 11, 2013
FlasherZ They do show up in the 17" console, but they disappear just as fast. Touching the exclamation point on the top line of the display will show all the current errors/warnings, if any.�
Jan 11, 2013
MikeK I have noticed occasional noises from the stereo, although I'm not sure that the sound was turned down, or if I just had it paused. In my case, it seemed to be interference from my GSM iPhone, but there may be other sources.�
Jan 12, 2013
Mike_Schlechter I think another update was pushed out. My Bluetooth now works fine for phone and music, and I see the outside air temp even when the battery is heating.�
Jan 12, 2013
JRP3 Is it possible that these quick warnings on start up are similar to an ICE when the check engine and other warning lights flash on when you first start it?�
Jan 12, 2013
Robert.Boston Try turning off the Ambient lights, which buzz when the screen brightness is turned down.�
Jan 12, 2013
znino Is it really static or a low buzzing sound? The ambient lighting (led lighting on doors etc) is known to create a buzzing if the screen intensity is dimmed below 100% so that might be it. It either turn off the ambient lights or out my screen at 100%�
Jan 12, 2013
jomo25 Updates don't auto install, right? So, it would only update if you told it to update, I thought.�
Jan 12, 2013
Jeff Krueger It is static, not buzzing. It sounds like "digital static" vs. "analog static", meaning it isn't just snow like you might here on a radio when not tuned to a broadcasting station. It almost sounds like a stream of bytes being expressed as static.
I'll try adjusting the brightness and ambient lighting, but it sounds like those are buzzing sounds which this is not.
I have a hunch that this is coming from the navigation system. Does it have a dedicated speaker for navigation guidance? I noticed it has its own volume and seems heavily driver focused (navigation that is, not sure about the static yet).�
Jan 12, 2013
jomo25 Ignore if you know that it isn't this, but what you just described does sound like GSM/cell phone interference.�
Jan 12, 2013
GeekGirls I hear GSM interference occasionally, too. I'd just like to know if it's from the vehicle's own connection or one of my devices.�
Jan 12, 2013
DrComputer If it is happening at night when your headlights are on turn off the ambient lights and see if the noise (buzz) goes away. This is a known problem.�
Jan 12, 2013
ckessel Since it's come and gone before I can read it, I really don't know. I don't think it's the equivalent of the "check engine" since it's not consistent. Idiot lights all come on every time as part of a normal test at startup, this is something occasional and transitory (since it's there no flashing ! on the center console header).�
Jan 12, 2013
brianman Some auto install. v1.15.14 is an example of such a case.�
Jan 12, 2013
mknox It probably just focuses nav through the front left speaker(s). My current ICE's built-in nav does this.�
Jan 12, 2013
kitk This is most likely to occur if you fall back to EDGE coverage. A 3G/4G/LTE connection shouldn't create this type of interference. Next time this happens take a quick look at how your phone is connected to the network.�
Jan 12, 2013
GeekGirls It only seems to happen on a particularly windy stretch of mountain road. There's no way I'm taking my eyes off the road to check the various devices that accompany me everywhere (iPad, iPhone, sometimes more than one of each!) I was wondering if the car is falling back to GSM or EDGE, though I've never seen the indicator change from 3G. I'll try the drive with all of my usual gear in the trunk the next few times. Or look for someone to carpool with who can keep an eye on everything for me.�
Jan 12, 2013
FlasherZ My phone causes this if I put it in the cubby below the touchscreen as it falls back to EDGE or GSM/GPRS, and its proximity to the car's audio hardware picks up on it.�
Jan 12, 2013
teslasguy Ok, so today my passenger front door has opened three times by itself. It appears to happen when I put the car in park. And I'm not talking about a partial open. The door pops open a couple inches. I wonder if this could be related to the 12v battery error?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD�
Jan 12, 2013
NigelM It's a problem with the pressure sensor in the door handle. Talk to sevice as it probably needs the handle to be replaced.�
Jan 12, 2013
ckessel My phantom console presses are definitely due to the surrounding dash. It happens most on bumps, the dash bends/torques enough the chrome lining the top of the console is causing the screen to see touches. I've pushed up some on the dash and it's definitely reduced the issues. I've gotten some phantom touches on the bottom of the screen as well taking corners aggressively which, again, adds some stresses to the dash just enough to cause touches to register.�
Jan 12, 2013
dlmorgan999 It sounds like this isn't the exact same problem, but I've had my car for 8 days. The first night I had the car, I scheduled 4.1 for install. Every morning since then, I've gotten a series of messages including "Car Needs Service (Car May Not Restart)", "12V Battery Power Low (Car May Shut Down Unexpectedly)" and "Car Needs Service (Unable to Drive)". Shortly after getting these messages, the car shuts down, and in fact I can't drive it.
After doing some testing over the last few days, I discovered that the 12V battery really was low. Last night, I put it on a Battery Tender and it took quite a while to fully charge. Once charged, I went for a ride (to get my "Tesla fix"
This morning, I woke up to the same series of messages and couldn't drive the car. I connected the Battery Tender again and found that in fact, the battery was fairly low again. It seems that there may be a combination of overnight power draw and perhaps a firmware-related lack of proper charging for the 12V battery. The Tesla engineers have told me that this is fixed in the next firmware update. In the meantime, I plan to leave my car connected to the Battery Tender every night.�
Jan 13, 2013
steve841 You NEED to call your service center .... the firmware either didnt take on the 12v charging module or the part is bad. Either way, you will be stranded at some point until they fix it.�
Jan 13, 2013
ModelS1079 You know, funny thing: My driver's side door opens at times when I pop the car into Park. I thought, heck, that's kind of convenient, albeit a little precocious. For the record, is this normal?�
Jan 13, 2013
jerry33 That isn't the intended behaviour. Its convenient, but only until a 30 mph gust of wind catches the door .�
Jan 13, 2013
ModelS1079 Getting a low rumble specifically when the climate is on, with the air flowing only through the defrost vent. AC off does not change this. Goes away if I add floor vent or chest level air flow. Before I'd had time to figure out the above, service saw the car and thought it might be AC cable against an inner cabinet, and opened all to be sure no contact was being made; given the above this obviously was not helpful.
I should add that, when air is sent only through the defrost vent, with or without AC, whether fresh air or recirculating, I get not only this really annoying low rumble as mentioned, but also a fan noise up high (dash, from the defrost vent in the middle). Of note, this is all new in the past week.
Thoughts before I bring Elwood back to Service?�
Jan 13, 2013
dlmorgan999 I've wondered if it might be a bad part, but right now the engineers are telling me it's an issue that is fixed in the next firmware update. Since that is due "soon", I'm going to wait for the update and see what happens.�
Jan 13, 2013
rlawson4 When I first got the car the bluetooth calling was very clear. To the people hearing me on the other end I sounded loud and clear. After my last update, people are telling me it is extremely hard to hear me. When I am not talking they hear no background noise. When I am speaking, they are telling me I sound muffled and there is a great deal of background noise. Has anyone else experienced this? Also, I do get the occasional drop or stutter in bluetooth when listen to music, a book, or a podcast. I am far more concerned that people cannot hear me clearly on the phone. One thing I have not tried is re-pairing the phone. I could certainly do it. I also wondered if I had a bad microphone, although it did work in the beginning. Thoughts? Anyone with similar experiences?�
Jan 13, 2013
Blurry_Eyed The low rumble issue has been a personal quest of mine as it really bothers me (A big hobby of mine is related to sound engineering and AV stuff). I believe the low rumble (beyond the normal tire and suspension noise over road surfaces and less than perfect road surfaces) actually is emanating from two primary sources:
1) The rear hatch lid
2) The rear seats (not the kid seats) themselves
I know exactly what sound you are describing with the HVAC system. The best way to describe it is it's like tapping the head of a bass drum lightly, you kind of get a 'whump, whump' type sound. If you tap the rear seats from the back (so stand behind the car with the rear hatch open and tap the back of the seats) you can duplicate the sound. Also you can do it from the inside of the car as well by tapping the back seats while reaching back from the driver or passenger front seats.
I found it strange that the sound would still resonate from the rear seats in relation to the HVAC issue even when the windows were open ands the sunroof was open, but what might be happening is the defrost vent pushes the airflow in just the right way to resonate the rear seat covering just enough to act like a bass drum head. It doesn't take much movement of a resonate surface to cause a low frequency rumble.
The temporary solutions I've found fairly effective at mitigating the problem:
1) Adjust the rear hatch rubber shims (extend them to the point where the rear deck almost won't close) to tighten the pressure on the rear hatch between the car and the hatch. The shims are on either side of the rear lift gate that raises (in the left and right corners by the tail lights).
2) Adjust the round flat plastic knobs that the rubber shims sit up (extend those out)
The above two fixes will primarily take care of the whump, whump sound when you are driving, but they really don't seem to help the HVAC issue that much.
I think the HVAC issue may have to be addressed by:
1) Putting additional padding material in the rear seat with the goal of preventing the resonate surfaces in the seat from vibrating
2) Improving the tightness of the latching mechanism so there is absolutely no flex in the rear seats.
3) Use a different material for the rear seat that has improved low frequency sound absorptive characteristics.
4) Change the airflow of the front windshield vent (This particular issue is being looked at by Tesla closely in regards to the fogging issues on the front windshield)
5) Install the rear parcel shelf - That would have the effect of making the speaker cabinet (rear hatch space) smaller, and potentially change the frequency of the resonance to something in the higher frequency range which might be less annoying
Another potential measure that owners could take would be to look at using some bass traps (from the audiophile world) in strategic locations in the car. Basically address the problem like you are having unwanted bass resonances in your listening room (in this case the car cockpit would be your listening room). It does seem a bit extreme, but it would be a way to reduce or eliminate the low frequency issue.
Also upon reflection, I think part of the issue is that the rear hatch is acting like a bass cabinet. The clearance between the top of the rear headrests and the top of the roof/hatch is relatively small, which essentially creates a massive speaker cabinet in the rear hatch with the rear seats acting like the bass drum head. Any movement of airflow in that space will act like a speaker. So if the hatch moves, the airflow movement will resonate the rear seats and if the rear seats move because of the airflow in the cabin (with the defrost vent moving airflow around the top of the car and into the back hatch) it will act like a speaker cabinet and resonate.
Hope that helps your quest to get a quiet cabin!�
Jan 13, 2013
Kauai I don't think this is normal, and had it fixed on my car. I had this happen with the driver's side passenger door. I flagged this as an item when I was last in for service. Apparently there was a fix, though I am not sure if it was hardware or software. No problems with accidental release over the past three weeks.�
Jan 13, 2013
clmazin How did you manage this? I couldn't get either to budge with just my hands, and I don't want to damage them with the improper tool.�
Jan 13, 2013
Blurry_Eyed My right one was stuck as well. I put some gloves on which helped me get a good grip on the screw and that helped me get it unstuck. Left (counterclockwise) will loosen them (lefty - loosey, righty - tighty).
If my gloves didn't do the trick, I would have used a cloth hand towel and then use a wrench to get a grip on the plastic screw (it has some flat points along the perimeter) and then turn it clockwise very carefully.�
Jan 13, 2013
lolachampcar has anyone tried putting the rear seats down to see if this changes the amplitude or frequency of the issue?�
Jan 13, 2013
jomo25 So, this is the fix for the "pressure buffeting" issues posted in another thread: Pressure Buffeting - Has anyone experienced it?
Is this the same "rumble" people are hearing, just being characterized differently?�
Jan 13, 2013
cinergi No, your door handle needs replacing. Same problem I had.�
Jan 13, 2013
MikeK I hear a rumble when the climate control is active (on heat, for sure, not sure about A/C), even if the car is at a dead stop. The sound stops instantly if I turn the climate control off. So, it's not the rear hatch issue.�
Jan 13, 2013
efxjim I have the same super low frequency rumble when the car first comes on. I think it might be the AC compressor running very slowly. It goes away in less than a min.�
Jan 13, 2013
ckessel Somewhere I read, perhaps the manual, that the compressor runs for the air suspension for a bit when the car first comes on.�
Jan 13, 2013
Fedderman I had a problem getting the parking brake to disengage today. After washing the car yesterday, I drove it the 15 feet into the garage where it sat overnight, and I am sure the brakes were wet. Today When attempting to back the car out of the garage, it wouldn't budge, and I could feel the car struggling against the brakes. I had to alternate between forward and reverse a few times, applying a light throttle each time, until the brakes finally released. Has anone else experienced this? Next time I wash the car, I'll plan to drive it around the block and apply the brakes enough to dry them off.�
Jan 13, 2013
pilotSteve I have this noise as well. Seems more noticeable in my now cold garage so perhaps it's the heat pump. Also sounds like a fan out of balance. I have only noticed this the past week when temperatures in my garage are below 40F. If it continues I will ask service if something is out of balance. Something new going on.�
Jan 13, 2013
Zapped Yes, I hadn't used the brakes much initially because the regen works so good.
I think any developing rust is like glue with the park brake applied and the occasional "harder" braking has solved the problem for me.�
Jan 13, 2013
MikeK As I noted above, it only happens when the climate control is on, and it stops instantly when your turn the climate control off. I'm pretty confident it's related to the climate control.�
Jan 13, 2013
Doug_G Yeah, I've been noticing a faint deep rumbling sound on start up for the last couple of days. It's unusually "warm" here right now (i.e. well above freezing) so maybe that is the A/C compressor.�
Jan 14, 2013
JakeP I have experienced that same rumbling, very noticeable, which stops instantly when you turn climate off. I was wondering if that was normal, as my car is only three days new. Running version .31.�
Jan 14, 2013
nhurst I have noticed loud climate control fan when set on automatic with significantly different temperature set points on driver and passenger side. "Climate control fighting itself?"�
Jan 14, 2013
Zextraterrestrial I believe so�
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