Feb 11, 2013
dtich of course, that's why i said most.... which i think is entirely accurate.
ps - not being snarky at all, just clarifying my intention.�
Feb 12, 2013
FlasherZ Did you reboot the center screen, or the "instrument cluster", or both? You reboot the speedometer display by holding the top two buttons (above the scroll buttons) for 10 seconds, until it blanks.�
Feb 12, 2013
pete8314 I've tried various combinations of reboots for both screens. At first there was nothing appearing on the left side apart from the volume control pop up, but a reboot at least got the album art there, but didn't fix the ability to change anything. I've let my service center know, they seem fairly baffled by it too. Not a big deal though.�
Feb 12, 2013
scriptacus Can you be more specific? Do you mean dead pixel(s), stuck pixel(s)... ?�
Feb 12, 2013
jhs_7645 It's a press and hold to bring up the UI to change the content, then scroll to choose the content.�
Feb 12, 2013
GeekGirls ... and then another click to actually select the content you've scrolled to. If you simply scroll through items and take no further action I believe it reverts to your prior setting after a brief period of inactivity.�
Feb 12, 2013
pete8314 Yeah, I got that. The images do not actually scroll, I can just see them slightly faded in the top and bottom of the window.�
Feb 12, 2013
jhs_7645 A video of the problem might do wonders here.�
Feb 12, 2013
STARR X My charger, which is a silver rectangular box underneath the back seat was bad. Tesla picked up my car, replaced it and returned my car. I was without my car for 8 days but it is running like a charm now. Very happy with their customer service.�
Feb 13, 2013
kinddog correctamundo.�
Feb 13, 2013
EarlyAdopter Coming up on 4 weeks now on my 2013 Model S and still zero problems.�
Feb 14, 2013
fluxemag I think it's very encouraging to see how much this thread has slowed down despite there being way more cars on the road.�
Feb 14, 2013
dlmorgan999 I can attest that since I got my car back from repair I've not had a single problem. Additionally, the 4.2 firmware seems to be very stable.
�
Feb 14, 2013
ckessel Sigh, rolled down my passenger window today on the freeway a bit, then back up and now it's generating tons of wind noise at 50+ mph. I opened and gave it a firm shut when I got to work, we'll see if that helps on the way home.�
Feb 14, 2013
lolachampcar One week, 700 miles and only the following small problems-
Front passenger door needs a little more force to close than the other three -- Tesla service says do not pull out the drain plug as the SRS Airbag system needs to see pressure rise during door crush to properly deploy. Tesla service will adjust when they next see the car.
Frunk has lifted a small amount on the right leading edge. Service will adjust at some point in the future when they see the car.
Rear tires are wearing on the inside edge. Cause is large negative camber used to control throttle off oversteer and decrease rolling resistance. This is common in BMW and Porsche. Tesla is providing alignment specs and the car is going to an alignment rack to see if we can get the rears from -1.75ish degrees negative to something more like -1 to -0.9. For reference, the rears measure 0.280", 0.270", 0.210" across both tires with the 0.210 being the inside edge.
So far, my MS has been one of the best cars I have purchased when it comes to initial quality.�
Feb 16, 2013
ChadS A week or two later, the weirdness continued. The hatch opened two more times, the windows rolled down twice, and the car unlocked itself once - all within the space of a few days. And always in the garage.
I noticed that all of these are things that you can control from the key fobs, which we store not far away. I did verify that while the fobs were far enough away that the car stayed locked even if I pressed on the door handles, the fobs were close enough that if I pressed a fob button, the car would obey. But why would the fobs send random messages? We tried moving the fobs far away for a couple of weeks, and sure enough none of this happened.
But while we were still storing the fobs away from the car, we started getting "key fob battery low" error messages when we drove the car. So I replaced both fob batteries, and stored the fobs back near the car.
The good news:
1. The problem has not happened since
2. If this really was the problem, it was only a risk in the garage. (It wouldn't have opened the hatch at a grocery store, because the fob would be too far away)
3. Tesla replaces fob batteries at the yearly service, and generally the batteries should live much longer than that (see next item), so most people shouldn't see this
Questions I still have:
1. Why did the fob battery die after only 4 months? Tesla says early cars (ours is VIN 112) had the fobs stored inside for transport, which apparently uses a lot of fob battery. They now transport the fobs separately.
2. Why would a dying fob battery send random signals? You'd think if the battery was weak, it would just sit there quietly.
3. How can I be sure I have fixed the problem? It took months to show up at all, and then didn't happen for a couple of weeks at a time. I'd feel better if I knew the answer to #2, but all in all I think this was very likely the issue.�
Feb 17, 2013
JRP3 Maybe the fob needs an off switch.�
Feb 17, 2013
jerry33 If the fob is stored close to the car, then it's always on. There is a bit about this in the NCF manual of the Prius, so it's not just a Model S thing.
Varying levels of RF interference. Sometimes the signal will appear stronger than others.
You can't prove a negative. Even if it works for ten years, you can't prove that at ten years an one day it won't happen.�
Feb 17, 2013
EarlyAdopter At least the battery in the Model S fob is easily replaceable. My wife's BMW fob battery died after 6 years and it's not user replaceable. That fob is sealed shut, and the battery is soldered in. You either have to buy a new fob at $200 (wtf!) or cut the fob open, desolder the battery, solder a new one in, and glue the fob back together (double wtf!).�
Feb 17, 2013
dtich
A dying fob battery should NOT send spurious signals. I would replace the old batteries, figure out which fob is acting badly and have tesla replace it.�
Feb 18, 2013
nleggatt Today I drove my car on the hwy a fair distance with the heat set at about 27 ish (it's 7 outside). When I pulled up to my place and turned off my music as I pulled into my driveway I hear a faint hum like a computer fan from the front dash. I've been sitting here for about 5 mins and the sound is still there. My climate is set to off and changing the accent lighting doesn't do anything
More concerned then anything�
Feb 18, 2013
Todd Burch I think that's normal. I hear that too sometimes...whatever it is.�
Feb 18, 2013
steve841 Yeah ... fans coming on is completely normal. No worries.�
Feb 18, 2013
kinddog my only issue after a week in is a very noticeable grinding or buzzing noise from the car when I drive on the highway between 65-70mph.
it is pretty loud and sounds like *egad* an aftermarket exhaust note or something.
i have NO IDEA what this is. motor? tires?
oh, and my charging cable won't open my chargeport door.
any ideas? i searched the forum but couldn't find anything about the grinding noise...�
Feb 18, 2013
tezco I hear this as well. Sounds to me like a small fan behind the dash display. Previously I didn't hear it when the car was off, until I upgraded to v4.2 Unfortunately, the fan now seems to be on 24/7.�
Feb 18, 2013
Ben W A fox, a chicken, a Tesla, and a key fob are all trying to cross a river, but there's only one canoe...�
Feb 18, 2013
stevezzzz
This may be the 'resonating rear hatch' phenomenon some have mentioned. The fix is apparently to adjust the rubber bumpers that get compressed when the hatch closes, extending them a bit to make the hatch latch work against a larger compression force and the hatch thus be less likely to vibrate. I haven't had this problem so I don't know exactly where you find these bumpers.�
Feb 18, 2013
Chgd Up I wouldn't say grinding (grinding sounds bad) but there have been a number of mentions of a hum from the motor/power train:
Road noise at highway speeds coming from wheel wells - Page 2
The charge port door is a noted issue, it sometimes helps to hold the cord above and behind the door. If you hold the button down and circle it around back there you'll probably find the spot. But I know service will replace your receiver antenna if you bring it in as a problem. I've just figured out where to hold it and it really isn't that inconvenient.�
Feb 19, 2013
goaliemanshark Does anyone hear a weird beep when you reach 25 MPH the first time after starting a drive?�
Feb 19, 2013
Todd Burch I had the hatch buffeting before adjusting my bumpers. This description sounds like something else.�
Feb 19, 2013
aaron.s Tezco, Others - Reboot your 17" screen and the fan noise will go away - has happened 2-3 times to me....
Aaron�
Feb 19, 2013
Todd Burch That's normal too. Can't remember but it's a system arming. Might be ABS, child locks, something related to cruise control...can't remember. But I heard a similar sound in my old ICE when crossing a speed threshold for the first time.�
Feb 19, 2013
kinddog
okay, thanks for the info..�
Feb 19, 2013
mknox I had that in an ICE a couple of cars back. It was the ABS and/or Traction Control "charging up" or something. If you just happened to be on the brakes at that point, you could feel it in the pedal too.�
Feb 19, 2013
ggr I believe this is the doors auto-locking. It's an option you can turn off.�
Feb 19, 2013
strider Is this with 4.2? I've noticed this noise a few times when I've gone into the garage to do laundry. I just assumed it was a side-effect of sleep mode being disabled. I'll try the reboot.�
Feb 19, 2013
MikeK I don't think it's that. I suspect it's the ABS system -- it happens at about the same time and speed where previous cars that I've had would do a calibration of the ABS that was accompanied by an audible whine or other sound.�
Feb 19, 2013
nleggatt Yes! Noticed it yesterday and today. Called service and they said they would look at it on Thursday.�
Feb 19, 2013
MikeK If it's the same one I hear, I don't believe it's through the speakers.�
Feb 20, 2013
Todd Burch If you're referring to having service look at the 25 mph sound, I'd say don't bother them with it. After quick checks, I'm 99.9999% sure this is the ABS system check/activation sound. Do a Google search ('ABS arming sound' or something similar) and you will find dozens of comments on the same thing, from all different manufacturers. Happens to me right at 25 mph too, and likely everyone else. Almost sounds like a muted dot matrix printer head moving for a brief moment, right? (Had trouble thinking of common sounds that sound similar).�
Feb 20, 2013
jhs_7645 I have a sound that happens whenever I first get in the car and release my break pedal. It's kind of a low motor hum coming from the front. Sounds almost like a pump, I can get it to happen just by pushing down on the break and then lifting again while parked or moving very slowly. Anybody else hear that or know what it is? It seems more distinctive than in the past, but maybe I'm just noticing now, and I can't 'unhear' it.�
Feb 20, 2013
ckessel I think it's the compressor for the air suspension. Same thing happens for me.�
Feb 20, 2013
JRP3 Does the S have a vacuum pump for brake assist? That might explain it.�
Feb 20, 2013
Kaivball That is the ABS pump.
Have the same noise on the ICE car.�
Feb 20, 2013
William3
I've got this problem too. For me it happens between 70-75mph, but around 70mph seems to be the loudest. I've got the 19" rims/tires and the tire pressure is exactly at factory spec. I thought maybe it was the tires, but the noise remains the same when I transition between concrete freeway and asphalt freeway. I'm now thinking maybe it is the differential. It is really annoying because that is the speed I usually drive at, and now I have to hear that constant drone the whole time. It overpowers the stereo system if the volume is less than about 5 or 6. All windows up.�
Feb 20, 2013
William13 William13, I have noted the sound that you are describing. I believe it is resonance in the rear wheel wells. I expect it will change/decrease when you put in your parcel shelf.�
Feb 20, 2013
William3 I didn't buy a parcel shelf, and to be honest, I don't really want one. It would always be getting in the way with the way I use the car. The drone is bad enough that I'd consider getting one though -- if I was sure that would fix it. I'd hate to spend all that money on something that I don't really want if it didn't fix the problem. If anyone lives near Thousand Oaks, CA and has a parcel shelf that I can test with I'd really appreciate it (please send me a private message).�
Feb 20, 2013
EarlyAdopter That's the vacuum assist pump for the braking system. Because the Model S can't draw a vacuum off the engine like ICE's do, an extra electric vacuum pump is needed.
There is also a separate air compressor for the air suspension. Adjust the height and you'll hear a different sound for it.�
Feb 20, 2013
MikeK That's what I figured. I wish they had a bigger reservoir for that pump. It runs so often and it's by far the most noticeable sound the car makes when driving around a parking lot, for example.�
Feb 21, 2013
EarlyAdopter Agreed. A higher quality, quieter pump would be welcomed, but it's pretty minor and only noticeable because the car is so quiet to begin with.�
Feb 21, 2013
scriptacus I wonder how many new sounds one would hear in an ICE car if the engine were completely silent. I get the feeling that a some of the noises S owners hear exist in ICE but are covered up by the engine.�
Feb 21, 2013
Todd Burch Regarding the grinding/buzzing noise, I'd recommend having Tesla check this out. It doesn't sound normal. I have no parcel shelf and don't hear this.�
Feb 21, 2013
mknox True. I think the worst part is not knowing what the sound is. I had a GMC Envoy SUV back in 2001 with air suspension. The compressor sounded like one of those cheap 12v tire inflators, but I knew what it was and got used to it.�
Feb 21, 2013
NigelM Comprehensive manual required.�
Feb 21, 2013
jhs_7645 I thought it was the air compressor, but since I can get it to happen over and over again by pressing and releasing the breaks, I tossed that theory out.
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks, That explains it.�
Feb 21, 2013
ckessel Hmm, odd. Mine only does it the first few times I brake in the morning then it stops. Maybe there's some sort of leak that ends up requiring your's to run the vacuum assist more?�
Feb 21, 2013
jhs_7645 It seems to be getting louder/worse, I'm bringing my car in tomorrow for a tire swap (finally.. the 19"!!!) new door handle, fixed rear bumper chrome diffuser piece, so I'll ask my tech to take a look.�
Feb 23, 2013
jhs_7645 Follow up, at the service appointment yesterday, the techs noticed the sound, and it was definitely louder than 'normal'. The issue seems to be the vacuum pump for the breaks as mentioned here. They suspect that it might have come a bit loose from its mounts and it's vibrating against the frunk. They haven't done a tear down of the area yet (they needed to finish the other work I had scheduled) so they'll do it on my next trip down next week.
On another note, since this is the mechanical issues thread, the service visit was for the following:
- Rear chrome diffuser piece on the bottom of the bumper was replaced because it was damaged by the car lowering itself onto a parking lot bumper, this repair is more significant than you might think, and they ended up needing to remove the entire back bumper to replace the part.
- Driver's side door handle needs replacing (still waiting on this part). I've had the 'door open when handles extend' issue happen with increasing frequency over the past two weeks (almost every other time now).
- Tire swap from the 21" to the 19" (they finally got my winter tires in� probably a bit late, but hey.. got 'em anyway)
- Condensation in the right rear reverse light that hasn't gone away since I got the car. They blew it out with an air compressor, and said that that might take care of the issue, but they said that it is not well sealed, and that they heard a re-design of that seal is coming.
�
Feb 23, 2013
spatterso911 I was called by my service center a few days ago. The taillight seal has been fixed and they have the part for me at the service center.�
Feb 23, 2013
DrComputer Nope, the parcel shelf doesn't help the 70 mph drone.�
Feb 24, 2013
kinddog love that there's a "William3" AND a "William13" here at TMC.. quoting each other for maximum confusion...�
Feb 24, 2013
scriptacus Picked up my car today at the factory and drove about 350 miles home to LA. Two issues came up in an otherwise flawless trip:
1) I noticed while checking the charging status of the car via iPhone app at Gilroy that my car was not locked. I have since verified that my car does not auto lock at all, and have emailed ownership. It did auto lock once, just after I picked it up and went to lunch, but has not worked since. I am able to approach the car without the fob and open the doors by pressing the handles to get them to extend.
2) Minor wind noise from the drivers side small triangular window when going ~75mph+. Putting my hand near it, I was able to feel the cold air coming in... Pressing the seals in the area had no effect. Has anyone else had this issue?�
Feb 25, 2013
jhs_7645 Could it be, since you had just picked the car up from the factory, that the second key fob was still in the car? If it was, this would have prevented it from locking.�
Feb 25, 2013
znino Just to be sure, in the setting you do have Walk Away Lock set to ON right?�
Feb 25, 2013
andrewket This was my thought as well.�
Feb 25, 2013
scriptacus Had both key fobs with me. Didn't know auto lock was a setting, so i'll check that, but it did auto lock the first time I left the car when heading to lunch with friends. (I recall this because they asked about it and I showed them the status in the app)�
Feb 25, 2013
Chris Yes I had the same issue. Wind noise at highway speeds coming from the right passenger side. In my case it was a seal issue with the small triangular window. Got it fixed during my last service visit and all is quiet now. Others have reported the same issue before.�
Feb 25, 2013
scriptacus Ok, so the setting was turned off. As far as it seeming to work earlier; when heading to lunch I attempted to lock with the key fob from quite far away... much farther than my Lexus fob works from. I saw/heard no activity from the car and assumed it was out of range.
TLDR; Lexus flashes lights and beeps to confirm a lock from the fob, Tesla does... nothing?�
Feb 25, 2013
ElSupreme The parking lights flash a single time. Even when autolocking while walking away. And if the door handles are out, they retract.�
Feb 25, 2013
pete8314 I'd still like the beep too though, the doors handles eventually retract regardless, and you look 'nervous' constantly looking around for the flash. Mine has never failed to lock though, except when I left the key in the car.�
Feb 25, 2013
MikeK I would love to have the option to have the car make a BMW-style beep upon locking, at least when locking with the fob. I sometimes let the car lock itself (walk-away locking), but if I'm parking in a busy area, I usually click the fob to lock it immediately. It would be nice not to have to look back at the car while doing that. When driving my mother's BMW 7 series, I just walked away and clicked the key in my pocket, and I would hear the beep and be assured that the car was secure.�
Feb 25, 2013
ModelS8794 I had this wind leak on the passenger side triangle, service center reseated the glass for me, a very quick fix.�
Feb 25, 2013
mknox I agree. I just walk away from my Cadillac with the fob in my pocket and it auto locks beeping and flashing the lights (both the beep and lights are user-configurable settings).�
Feb 25, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla I don't rely on the auto-lock any more. I press the fob in the pocket without looking back and as I walk away, I whip my phone out and check on the lock (and charging, if applicable) status. Not a big deal.
Before I adopted this routine, auto-lock failed me only once; well, kind of. It was while at the Oakland Zoo and I was probably several hundred feet away and was surprised to see on the phone that the car was still unlocked! Realized later that my wife's purse with her fob was hidden in the footwell in the trunk - thought fobs cannot be detected in the trunk?! - so, that explains that.
In any case, better safe than sorry. Good old fob press through the jeans pocket does the trick for me.�
Feb 26, 2013
mknox Can you lock/unlock from the mobile app? That would be handy to let someone in to get something out of the car if you're not around, or to lock it if you forgot.�
Feb 26, 2013
NigelM Yes.
.�
Feb 26, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla Absolutely.
�
Feb 26, 2013
napabill With the auto-lock setting "On" I have had one occasion where the car didn't auto-lock. I rebooted the main screen and haven't had the problem since. Not sure if that fixed it, or if by chance one of the doors was ajar when we left.�
Feb 26, 2013
Blurry_Eyed I think if you leave a fob in the main cabin of the car (Trunk, passenger area, glovebox) and lock the car with the iPhone app, someone can touch the door handles and they will present themselves because it detects the keyfob in the car, even with the car locked as indicated by the iPhone app. I haven't tried it out personally, but i'm pretty sure it behaves like that.
I do think if you put the keyfob in the frunk (not trunk) the door handles will not present themselves if someone touches them if you lock the car with the iPhone app. Been to lazy to try out the experiment myself, but I've heard it does that. I should give it a try sometime.�
Feb 26, 2013
ElSupreme You could also wrap the keyfob in aluminum foil, or put it into a metal sunglasses case.�
Feb 26, 2013
NigelM That's correct. (I tested it)�
Feb 26, 2013
scriptacus My rear seatbelts have an issue that I could swear I've seen mentioned here, but I was unable to find the thread. A passenger noticed that when pulling them out at a normal angle they are scraping against something inside of the upper mechanism. I tried it myself and it seems they only extend smoothly when held at an unnatural angle that is very close to parallel to the seat. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, can it be addressed by service?�
Feb 26, 2013
znino I noticed and reported this on December 21 when I got my car. I doubt it will be something they can fix. Seems to be a design issue as the roller is just placed at an angle that is not appropriate when you are sitting and try to pull the seatbelt. I'm sure if they get a lot of use the seatbelts will fray from rubbing against the edge of the plastic guide.�
Feb 27, 2013
scriptacus I also asked an owner on the teslamotors forum about this. Here's the conversation:
@nickjhowe - my rear seatbelts scrape against something inside of the upper mechanism when being pulled out at a normal angle. Is this the same issue you're having, and if so, is it fixable by service?
@scriptacus - yes. It is a known problem (has an ID in the service system) and has an orderable part to fix it. Speak to TM service. Some cars seem better than others, and even the perfect ones still seem to scrape a little when pulling across the body - but there's definitely a problem with some cars that can be fixed/improved.
So... maybe there is some hope for a fix after all.�
Feb 27, 2013
znino That's great news. Mine is definitely one that is not aligned and scrapes against the edges of the mechanism. I will ask Tesla about this fix. You wouldn't happen to know the Service System ID in question?�
Feb 28, 2013
Seegem Hi Friends,
P85 here (absolutely the best car I've ever owned, OMG!).
I've noticed several times that I hear this really loud scraping & grinding sound out of either of the front wheels, often when driving over pebbles/dirt on the road. Sounds like some of the stones are being pulled up by the 21" performance tires (in the grooves) but I have no idea where they're landing... Could it be the brakes? Anyone else have this too?
Thanks,
Mark
==============
So, turns out it they are rocks that can get caught in the calipers. Many cars with large breaks have this problem and while the rocks do scratch the rotors its not a huge deal (from Tesla service)�
Feb 28, 2013
scriptacus New annoyance: I usually leave work when it's dark out, and for some reason my display switches into day mode about 10-20 seconds after leaving the parking garage. This has happened for 3 nights in a row now. I park on the roof, which is dark, and the drive down to the exit is reasonably well lit, but not bright. I'm wondering if the light sensor sensitivity is something service can adjust. For now I just open the settings and put the car into night mode for a minute or so and then back to auto. Just switching from auto to night and back immediately still ends up going back to day mode.
Anyone else experience similar issues?�
Mar 1, 2013
mnx Why not just set it to Night and leave it there? In my S it resets to auto each time the car turns on.�
Mar 1, 2013
scriptacus As a workaround? I suppose... but I'm hoping its an issue they can fix.�
Mar 1, 2013
jhs_7645 Update on my driver's door handle issue. I could not get it repaired last week when I had the car in for service, so I figured I could wait. Over the past few days, my door has occasionally felt more difficult to open, and as of this AM it would not open at all (handle extended, but would not open the door when I pulled on it). I had to climb through the back seat and reach forward to the inside front door handle to open it. I tentatively have an appointment on Tuesday to have the new door handle installed, but i wanted to warn folks that have the 'door sometimes opens when unlock' issue to make sure to get your handle replace before it fails.�
Mar 1, 2013
pete8314 My truck close button, after being a bit 'dodgy' for a week or so, has finally quit working completely. It's still lit, but other than that, non-functional. Closing via the fob and control panel are still fine, so it's not a big deal, but it's booked in for next week to have that looked at, and a couple of other cosmetic issues that have been there since I took delivery.�
Mar 1, 2013
scriptacus I believe holding the top button on your fob will roll down the windows. Might make life a little easier until you get it fixed.�
Mar 2, 2013
znino I had a similar thing a while back where one handle was extended but could not open door. They rebooted the door handle system by pulling out two fuses and it solved the issue. Have not had a problem since�
Mar 2, 2013
jhs_7645 Thanks all for the help!
ARGH!! duh� thank you!
- - - Updated - - -
Looking over the fuse layout in the manual, I see 'Rear Door Handles' and Door Controls (right and left sides). Is it the 'door controls left side' fuse?�
Mar 2, 2013
znino He pulled two fuses which he said were related to all the door handles (I guess resetting everything doesn't hurst). If you look at the attached picture there are two 10A red fuses lined up on top of each other in the center of the fuse box. He pulled those two out, waited a minute, put them back and everything started working again. (The two two red fuses that are in the same column together)
�
Mar 2, 2013
Beavis Interesting. I did it myself when the rear, driver side handle wouldn't present. I was given instruction by a service tech. The fuse I pulled was the 5 amp fuse that is between the 25 amp and 10 amp fuses, next to the empty spot. It worked. My only warning is that if you drop that fuse, you are going to lose it.�
Mar 2, 2013
jhs_7645 Thanks guys! According to the manual, the two red ones are 'F41 (door controls left side)' and 'F32 (door controls right side)'. The five amp fuse that Beavis referred to is 'F40 (rear door handles)'. So basically, the answer is 'YES'
- - - Updated - - -
OK, can I just say that after spending years under the hood of my '68 mustang, leaning over the fender of the Model S and pulling fuses was the most ridiculous thing I've done to a car
And, on another note. I finally feel like the car is mine. I never feel like something is mine until I take part of it apart.�
Mar 2, 2013
Thumper Always carry a variety of spare fuses in the glove box!�
Mar 2, 2013
efxjim I wonder since the car can roll down the windows can it roll them up when setting the alarm? More than once I have walked away with a window down.�
Mar 2, 2013
MikeK I sure wish there were a way to ask the car to just "close up shop" -- windows, sunroof, etc. with one easy action.�
Mar 3, 2013
napabill I took care of a part of it by ordering the special option; the solid roof. Always closed. Works for me.:wink:�
Mar 4, 2013
ksl125 Model S - Dead Touchscreen
I had the same problem at 540-miles.
No Touchscreen, No Heat - 2013 Tesla Model S Long-Term Road Test�
Mar 4, 2013
ksl125 Tesla Motors Service just called. Dropped off car at 8:30am @Fremont factory. Got a call at 5:12pm wherein I was told "hopefully tomorrow" and he "thinks they're going to replace the console."
Love the car. Not overly impressed by the service (including the Enterprise Rent-A-Car service they arranged). Certainly one area the major lux car mfg. have it over Tesla.�
Mar 4, 2013
rekoh New car.. New issues:
The walk-away lock feature doesnt work. When I slide it to 'on' it doesnt stay there. All the other options on the page work fine.. Drive-away lock, child lock, etc. Reset the screen, no difference. Deleted user profiles incase that was interferring - nope. Waiting for a call back from Tesla.
Also - I have a crackling sound coming from the front speaker -- I cannot believe it is blown?
anyone else having these issue??�
Mar 4, 2013
danubi1 I also have the crackling sound from front passenger side tweeter. The bass mid in the door is not working either! Love the car despite these issues, and hope Tesla fixes them quickly.�
Mar 5, 2013
AnOutsider Anyone else noticing their car no longer locking when they walk away? The lights stay on for a long time (5+ minutes), and I thought it was just the lights but I was coming out of a store and someone I was with was leaving another store and walked toward the car. They pressed the handle and the door opened. I'd been inside for appx 8-10 minutes.
Walk away lock setting is on, and I turned it off and back on to be sure.�
Mar 5, 2013
mcornwell Started to hear a rubbing sound through the steering wheel on slow speed turns of the wheel, such as parking lot maneuvers. Anyone else?�
Mar 5, 2013
mnx I've seen through the app that my car is unlocked before, but it's been sitting in my garage with the keys just inside the house. It locks itself most of the time however....
�
Mar 5, 2013
Robert.Boston Are you sure all the doors were closed properly? I had this happen once when some loose cargo got caught in the door jam.�
Mar 5, 2013
Todd Burch If it's a somewhat faint noise, like a far-off zipper being zipped, that's just a normal power steering sound.�
Mar 6, 2013
digitaltim Definitely - I won't have a chance to have it looked at though for another month.
Let me know if you have it looked at.�
Mar 6, 2013
Cool-Model S If all the doors are closed properly, my car locks few minutes after you walk away.
i have a front hood alignment issues. On the Left side of the hood, I can slip my index finger in and on the right side, it is nice and tight. I am going to drop the car for them to look at.
Has anyone had this problem before.�
Mar 8, 2013
brianman I hear more of a "straining" sound rather than a rubbing sound. Sorry for the poor description.�
Mar 9, 2013
neroden I noticed immediately that the car is pretty old-school when it comes to turning the wheels -- you want to be moving while turning the wheels. 1 mph is enough. The car doesn't like turning while standing still; you scrape rubber against the pavement and it's a huge effort for the power steering. (Somewhere I read about the detailed technical design considerations which affect this, but I forget the details.) Luckily I learned to drive a car which had the same characteristic.�
Mar 9, 2013
JRP3 Does it change at all with the different steering settings?�
Mar 9, 2013
mcornwell I'll try on my next drive. It's been set to sport since pickup.
If I had to describe it, it sounds like a cable is getting caught up on the steering shaft when large inputs are made, it rubs, then releases.
I have a laundry list of items for Service, but I',m still waiting to hear if they've gotten a door handle in. My contact at the local San Diego service center was out on training this past week, hopefully we can touch base Monday and set an appointment.�
Mar 9, 2013
kgb Anyone have problem with audio streaming issues? I get clipping of audio playback with both my Slacker source and my iPhone 5 Bluetooth source. Although I find it hard to believe that signal strength is poor for both 3G and bluetooth from my phone, it could be that... or it could be something with the audio processing on the Android side. The problem is intermittent, but happens for a little while almost every time I get in the car. Anyone else with this?
I already tried changing the setting for slacker from "high quality" to "standard" to help in the even it was a bandwidth issue.�
Mar 11, 2013
seidste1 My Bluetooth to iPhone works great, but slacker will often skip or just silently spin the circle arrow. Seems to happen with weak 3G but sometimes with all bars present. I rebooted the center screen with no improvement.�
Mar 11, 2013
Lloyd I have a small issue that nobody else has mentioned I believe. I work pretty hard at keeping my car clean whenever I can. Whenever I wash my car, there is an area around the rear window that collects dirt and water when washing the car. Even if the car sits, the area around the rear window will expell water and dirt on the first drive following a wash, leaving dirt streaks down the rear of the car. I wish the rear window had a seal around the glass to prevent water from pooling in this area. Over time this area has to be an area for corrosion if it is not kept free from pooling water and dirt.�
Mar 11, 2013
steve841 The best solution I've found...open the rear hatch.... Dry the inner areas ...by the time you finish that, the bulk of the water is gone in the glass seal area....�
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