Nov 30, 2015
Discoducky I'm worried about this as I still have all 4 Gen 1 handles on my early VIN and nearly at 50K miles. Never had any issues though so maybe I'm good?�
Nov 30, 2015
Forty Creek On both occasions I had just stopped the car and put it into Park. The door popped open as if I had pulled the handle.... so a couple of inches I would say. I heard from service and they advise that since this only happened when the car was going into Park, that it would not happen when the car is in motion.�
Nov 30, 2015
Sparrow All 4 of my Gen 1 handles just got replaced a week ago. The handles themselves were not replaced just the mechanical parts. The rear passenger door handle was acting flaky. It started a few months ago when it would extend, but not allow me to open the door. The light would also not come on. A couple of days later it started working again and I had no problems for about a month and then it started again. The day before I took it in for the replacements, the handle decided to stay extended. Never had the spontaneous door opening problem.
I do like the feel of the newer handle mechanism.�
Dec 1, 2015
davidc18 Had my first significantly unsatisfactory SC experience last week. The car was scheduled to have the front DU replaced, the side window alignment fixed and one of the arm rest screws (which I gave them) put back. The seatbelt inspection was scheduled and I asked them to check the tire pressures (which the car reported as 42 all around). They had the car for 3 days. While I had the loaner (a new 90D) I called and asked them to check the rear camera (the 90D camera looked like HD) to see if it was out of focus/working properly. They called on day 2 to say that they were checking the oil level in the DU, it was low, and the noise was now much lower. On day 3 when I picked up the car I found that 1. the front DU noise was now louder than before, 2. the armrest was not fixed, 3. the tires were now at 41 psi, 4. the windows were not aligned properly and 5. the battery was down to 106 miles (I dropped it off at 192). I am not sure what they actually did to the car, but it is NOT fixed. I am really disappointed and not sure where to escalate this to. This visit to the SC was, in my opinion, a total FAIL on Teslas part.
Just under 10K miles on car.�
Dec 1, 2015
BertL Sorry about the problems... Not a good experience, i agree. If you noticed these things before driving away, did you go back in and question someone? If you noticed them on your way home or once you arrived, did you call the SC and report the failures, or ask for the Service Mgr? ...or of you're just totally disgusted and prefer not to first deal with your local SC Mgr (which you'll eventually have to unless you are willing to drive to another SC), have you called National Customer Service? I suggest those are likely the best paths to proceed before writing a letter to Elon. Good luck.�
Dec 1, 2015
davidc18 The SC called tonight to follow up. They are going the check again with engineering back at Tesla and they offered to come pick up the car tomorrow to fix the arm rest. I do appreciate the followup. The staff has always been great. I'll wait for the follow up.
�
Dec 3, 2015
dirkhh Twice now I got in the car, turned it on by switching into 'R' and as I roll backwards down the driveway, I notice that a window has opened about 4in / 10cm. At least the second time around I am 100% sure that the window was closed when the car was in the driveway (because it was 32F/0C outside and I had pre-heated the car to a comfy 64F/17C - that wouldn't have happened this quickly with an open window).
The last three days I carefully checked the windows before starting the car and of course it hasn't happened since...
Might be random user stupidity. Not sure, yet.�
Dec 3, 2015
mknox About 3 or 4 times a week, my left knee will bump the switch for the rear passenger window and either drop it a couple of inches, or all the way if I bump the switch hard enough. At first I was sure there was some "firmware bug" causing this.�
Dec 3, 2015
Kalud Very possible but I also had a bug once where a window would roll down the ~1cm when opening the door, then would not return to original position when closing the door. Then opening and closing the door multiple time would leave the window multiple cm down. I was actually able to get it down all the way. I just had to roll it all the way up then down then up again and it "solved" the issue.
I'd like to note that I had the exact same issue a couple time with my former bmw (coupe with frame-less window).�
Dec 3, 2015
Ingineer Was it the right rear window? This happens to me all the damn time. It's my knee bumping the down button for that window when I go to swivel my body around to look back. I'm tempted to make some sort of a control guard that prevents this, it's super annoying!
--- updated ---
LOL, I just saw MKnox's knee does the same thing!�
Dec 3, 2015
dirkhh
OK, will check for a firmware upgrade for my left knee...�
Dec 5, 2015
EarlyAdopter I had a problem once where if I was wearing all synthetic clothing, like gym clothes, when it was really cold and dry out I would generate a huge static charge while sitting driving. When I'd get out and touch the door handle I'd discharge a significant shock into the door handle which would activate the window and roll it down a bit.
This was on my 2013 Model S. I since learned to not wear all synthetic clothing in winter and haven't experimented on my newer Model S, but this could also be a cause of mystery window roll down.�
Dec 5, 2015
Pilot_51 Interesting, that does sort of tie into my experience of it happening only in the winter. However, I only wear cotton clothing and my seats are textile, and it was reversing without my hand/arm near the switch. I also don't recall experiencing static discharge when touching any part of my car.
In my case, I suspect the reason it only happens when it's cold is because whatever is causing the resistance is affected by the temperature. Rubber, which is stiffer when cold, comes to mind as a possible cause.
I got a call from service about this yesterday and the pickup is scheduled for Monday. I bundled in some other things for them to check out, in particular my still-unresolved sunroof issue, which is why it needs to go to the service center (the last ranger who tried fixing it told me it needed to go into service to have the rear glass moved back).�
Dec 5, 2015
jerry33 I've never experienced the shock, but wiping the dash with a microfiber cloth can change values on the 17" display. Every instance I've had of the windows rolling down can be attributed to knee position--at least after they took the all windows down by pressing the fob. I had that happen a few times in pouring rain and it's no fun because a second press doesn't roll them up again. It's one feature I'm thankful they removed.�
Dec 6, 2015
pdxgibby In the Display settings, there is a "Clean Mode" that turns the screen black to allow for cleaning. In order to return from clean mode, you have to hold a button down for three seconds. Very handy feature for wiping down a dirty screen.
- - - Updated - - -
I wanted to follow up with this. My service center installed a whole new set of front sensors (6) for me and they are all working perfectly. Kudos to Tesla for fixing this problem.�
Dec 6, 2015
jerry33 True today, but the clean feature wasn't always there.�
Dec 6, 2015
Pilot_51 I have a portable battery pack and solar panels that I put on the dash when parked outside during the day and I've experienced similar behavior when the USB cable touches the screen while taking the panels down. I don't think it's static in this case, but it does seem to trigger actions that aren't very near where the cable touches. I've noticed that USB cables will cause touches on other touchscreens (phones, tablets) as well.�
Dec 7, 2015
mknox I'm the opposite. I regularly get "zapped" by the car getting out (same with my other cars too), but never had a single problem cleaning the dash or displays with microfiber cloths. In fact, I don't even bother with the "Cleaning Mode" they added.�
Dec 7, 2015
jerry33 I've never had a problem with cleaning the display. It's wiping the top of the dash that will sometimes cause the problem. Doesn't happen all the time and I understand there is fix but I haven't bothered to do anything about it.�
Dec 8, 2015
mknox No problem (for me) with the top of the dash either. Depending on where/when I use either a microfiber cloth, a Swiffer brush or (my favorite) a California Duster.�
Dec 8, 2015
Discoducky I'm willing to bet that there was a FW update available that you hadn't accepted
�
Dec 11, 2015
mknox Okay, since getting v7 (2.9.12) or maybe the release before that, about 50% of the time when I get in the car I have to wait for the "Systems Powering Up" alert to clear before I can tap the brake pedal and start the car. I have re-booted, but still have the issue. In the past nearly 3 years, I may have seen it twice before, but now it's multiple times a day. The car shouldn't be "asleep" because I keep Energy Savings OFF / Always Connected selected. It's not the end of the world, but I'm curious if it's just me...�
Dec 11, 2015
BertL After doing some testing showing fairly significant daily vampire loss when I turned this OFF, I keep mine ON, so can't validate for you... But, FWIW, the manual indicates when Energy Savings = OFF as you have, MS is still going into energy savings mode 10PM-5AM if that accounts for at least some of the times you're having to wait a few seconds.�
Dec 11, 2015
mknox Yeah, I'm aware of that, but it's doing it in the middle of the day. Sometimes even if I've just run in to a convenience store for a minute. The 17" and dash displays are both up and running, but the alert dialog box pops up at the bottom center of the dash (below the speedo) for (usually) about 10 seconds. Tapping the brake does nothing until the message goes away.�
Dec 11, 2015
pdxgibby Well, this is starting to get frustrating. Day 1 of ownership, I had the malfunctioning parking sensor issue, which evolved into 2 of the sensors malfunctioning in the span of a week.
A week after delivery, I was in the service center to address this problem. They had the idea to swap my bumper (including 6 brand new sensors) with another Model S that was headed for their showroom (not someone else's car). The color matched perfectly, and that car's bumper did not have the dents in it that mine did. Killed two birds with one stone! Awesome.
Sadly, one week later, and we're at it again. This time with a different sensor. Here are two videos on two different days. The first day, it was not raining and the car was clean. The second day, there was a light sprinkle.
The latest feedback I got from my service representative was a snapshot from the manual and telling me to keep letting him know if it continues to malfunction so they can request a logset to see what is going on.
If the sensors are malfunctioning due to environmental conditions, I would wager that the environmental conditions are similar at each of the other 11 sensors but none of them repeatedly malfunction.
Something is not quite right with my car...am I the only person having this problem? Could my luck be that bad? Has anyone else had repeated issues with misbehaving sensors?�
Dec 12, 2015
f-stop hey pdxgibby, you're not alone - I'm having the same problem with my new 70D - as I posted (and you already noticed) in another thread: misbehaving ultrasonic proximity sensor? Thought I should chime in here if this is the main discussion area of these sorts of things. I think our cars came off the line around the same week, so I wonder if there was some production glitch relating to this problem?
I called service and I was told they've had reports of this problem possibly due to improper paint over the sensors(?). anyhow I couldn't get a service appointment until early January so I'll have to live with it for now.
I'm a little worried that if it requires bumper replacement like yours the service may take a while, I was told they'd first need to see my car to diagnose (to me that sounds like a repeat visit will be necessary to get the parts).
In my case it's always the exact same sensor going off for no reason - left front, from the diagrams I've seen I guess it's the 2nd one in counting clockwise from the leftmost front sensor, same as your 1st pic above. "Environmental conditions" as a root cause makes no sense, since as you say none of the other sensors behave this way.
It's intermittent, some days it goes away but happens more days than not - and days when it malfunctions, it's chiming most of the day. Might be a coincidence, but seems to be worse on wet rainy days (a lot of those up here this time of year). For now I've turned off the parking chimes, it's just so annoying when driving in traffic and it going off for no reason every few seconds at low speed. Hopefully this can easily be fixed, I am eager to hear if/how this issue is resolved in your car�
Dec 12, 2015
Iheartfrenchies Three day old car and I've already gotten the "driver assistance features unavailable contact service". I did the scroll bar reset just to see and it's still not working.�
Dec 12, 2015
jerry33 Do the speedometer reset as well (two top buttons).�
Dec 12, 2015
boonedocks
Super easy fix. I have had this happen 4 times and the Tesla #800 support gave me the instructions. While seated in the car foot on the brake - go to control settings and press the e-brake button then the "power off" button. Remove your foot from the brake. Wait about 90 seconds and press the brake and the car will restart and you should be good to go.�
Dec 12, 2015
pdxgibby Hey f-stop,
The bumper replacement was to fix dents in my bumper from the bonding process between the plastic and the support structure. I guess they heated the plastic bumper up too high and it ended up getting warped or something like that. The guy in service says that this was a change made to how things were done before. If you don't have any flat spots or creasing in your bumper it's likely they will be able to just replace the sensor for you. I'm hoping it's a paint-too-thick or uneven paint issue, then it can be solved by swapping the sensors only. I think that is the case.
By the way, you can turn off the chiming in the Settings if you want. It makes it slightly less annoying.
Keep me posted on your progress. I'm hoping to get mine resolved soon. Very annoying.�
Dec 12, 2015
Iheartfrenchies Thanks guys. I read the old thread and did the reboot which didn't work. Then I just parked it in the garage for a while and it magically fixed itself�
Dec 19, 2015
Stuart1 pwm frequency
I am pretty sure that they are talking about the pwm frequency. PWM noise will increase with motor current and so it will change with speed and acceleration. It will change with speed because as you reach the speed you are accelerating to you will let off the accelerator and the current will decline to a low level.
Keep in mind that the pwm frequency is high and people hearing varies. If you are older you probably can't hear it but if you are younger you might.
Also the current going through the wire causes it to vibrate, this can excite the natural frequency of the cable, which can be a lower frequency. This can be adjusted by adding additional cable hold down to increase the frequency out of the audible range and also reduce the wire movement.
"On the perf version for example, max power is 310kW, thus approx 850A DC current in the inverter input conductors, and a little less of AC current in each motor phase output conductors.
I am pretty sure there is no connector to interconnect input power conductors to inverter and inverter output conductors to motor. I think it's rather direct screwed connection.
Concerning "changing the frequency of the electricity that goes through there so its not audible" :
An inverter converts DC voltage/current from 2 power conductor to 3 AC current for the 3 phases motor. To do this, the inverter uses pulse width modulation (PWM), which can be called the carrier. The duty cycle of this pulse width modulation signal is modulated to build the AC current in the motor phase.
Thus in an inverter we have 2 distinct frequencies :
- The frequency of the PWM signal (the carrier). This frequency is fixed and is the same regardless of the motor speed. If this frequency is too low, it will be audible as a continuous whistle regardless the motor speed. Habitually, this frequency is above 15 or 20kHz, to be in the ultrasound spectrum frequency and is inaudible.
- The modulated AC current frequency in the 3 motor phases (120� out of phase between motor phases). This frequency corresponds to the magnetic rotating field applied to the stator of the motor, and thus is totally dependent of the motor speed.
Thus if the audible noise frequency that some owner hear is changing according to speed, it's because that noise comes from the 3 phases AC current, and thus this frequency cannot be changed because it is totally dependent of motor speed.[/QUOTE]"�
Jan 13, 2016
davidc18 I've been working with the SC and I would like to update to say that once again, the SC has stepped up and over expectations to take care of the concerns I had. The SC service manager has, I think, gone above and beyond to help resolve the issues with the car. Thank you to everyone involved at the Dania Beach SC.�
Jan 17, 2016
bareyb Is anyone having problems with their Nav since the update? My Nav has my car Icon driving in the weeds on the side of the road, instead of on the road (position is wrong now). This happened the same day I got the Garage door opener update on my Classic S.�
Jan 17, 2016
Praveer When I had my classic VIN 29330, I saw these "wait for system powering up" messages pop up pretty frequently. Just like you, sometimes happening within leaving the car for a few minutes. My service center advised me to note the time of when this message popped up. They said it should never really pop up. I started noting that down. After giving them about 8 reading in two days, I dropped off my car with them and they fixed it. Can't remember what they did, may be been replacing the MCU (17" display).
Hope that helps.�
Jan 18, 2016
mknox The only issue I've had since 7 is that the spoken directions are often truncated mid-sentence. Happens often enough to be annoying.�
Jan 18, 2016
rclams ==> mknox said: "The only issue I've had since 7 is that the spoken directions are often truncated mid-sentence. Happens often enough to be annoying."
THIS ^^^^^^^^^ !!!!!!
And I thought I was going crazy!!
For me "truncation" only seems to occur in the "preliminary guidance" before an upcoming turn.�
Jan 20, 2016
bareyb It seems to have fixed itself like the last time. Hopefully it sticks. Now finally, the new "Auto-Open and Close" feature works properly on my garage. I like it! That's pretty cool. The Homelink Icons still drop down one extra time at the end of the block and then pops back up. My wife suggested that perhaps it's a visual confirmation that it had closed the door. Which come to think of it would be ingenious. How many times have you turned the car around to make sure you remembered to close the Garage Door?
Having said all that, I was curious if anyone else had noticed the Homeink App Popping down and then back up briefly when you reach the end of your street. Anyone notice this or is it just me?
ETA: What the hell, while I'm at it... Anyone notice their "Gas" Door popping open after you close it the first time in the morning? I often have mine pop back open and I had to re-close it. Anyone?�
Jan 20, 2016
pdxgibby I had this as well on 7.0, however it seemed to only happen when a track would switch on TuneIn or Slacker.
With 7.1, I'm seeing this as well.
I have a previously scheduled service appointment this Monday and I will mention it.�
Jan 20, 2016
Pilot_51 I had that happen semi-regularly with the UMC, not so much after installing the HPWC. I never figured out why it happened and service was unable to reproduce. I think making sure to close it firmly and being careful not to press the button as you put the cable away is about as much as you can do.�
Jan 23, 2016
Bugeater No, this happens randomly for me sine I got the car. I have very carefully closed the reflector and watched as it popped back open. The HPWC cable was already put away.
The truncated directions has been noticible by me since 7.0.�
Jan 24, 2016
jerry33 ^^^^This. It happens but not frequently enough to be really annoying, maybe twice a month.�
Jan 24, 2016
Pilot_51 In my case, when it did happen (roughly once a week), it was just about always as I was putting the cable away (coiling it up on a small table), so I thought it was possible there was a short of the button wiring in the cable or something. I also left the protective plastic on the handle, which I thought could have been causing the button to stick, but service said many owners leave it on and don't have the problem.�
Feb 10, 2016
Scottd I have found that the front headlight accent lights and amber lights on my '13 MS 85 are not illuminating when the headlights are on. From the touch screen it shows that they illuminate then turn off which tells me that the car realizes that they are not on. Is there a fuse or something I can do easily to fix this or should I set up an appointment with service?�
Feb 10, 2016
BertL Check the back of your Owners Manual for fuse location, otherwise, I'd just call the SC.�
Feb 10, 2016
FloridaGary - - - Updated - - -
Fuses are located in the Frunk on the passenger side near the windshield. You have to remove the black plastic to access.
- - - Updated - - -
I've only had my S for 6 weeks and this has happened to me 3 times. I notice it happens when I am washing the car in the driveway and when I hop in to pull into garage to dry it, I notice the screen is blank as if its asleep.�
Feb 10, 2016
Scottd I ended up calling my SC here in Dallas. They said that they had a good idea of what could have caused it and to stop by. It ended up being that the last tech to work on the car during a service, forgot to plug a connector together in the front of the car. That piece also controls the louvers for cooling. Not sure how a code was not thrown but if anyone has this issue in the future--best bet is that the plug is not connected.�
Feb 12, 2016
Beryl My invoice from the SC included this remark:
"Numerous aftermarket electrical accessories installed"
The SC replied to my email questioning that description since I only recalled installing a webcam.
They are correct. Tesla installed the console with the phone charger but I forgot about the USB multiplier (in the lighter port with nothing attached) and USB drive (music collection).
Has anyone had warranty problems with a comment like this being on file at Tesla? I'd like to leave the webcam installed but should I remove the 3 USB items when not in use?
Update: Tesla sent a new invoice with changed verbiage:
"Note: Vehicle has aftermarket forward and rear facing dash cams."�
Feb 13, 2016
hoskme I got the message about waiting for systems to restart a few days ago. My phone had a message that charging was complete but when I got in the next morning the screen was blank and the message was on the instrument panel. I waited a couple of minutes the rebooted both screen and instrument panel and everything then started up ok. This has only happened once in 7 weeks since delivery.�
Feb 14, 2016
Ingineer Tesla service is hostile to aftermarket equipment of any kind. Keep in mind if you have USB stuff, or anything plugged into the 12v (cig lighter) port, it goes off when the car goes to sleep, so this will not impact anything in the car. If you have tapped the 12v system so that your device is always on, then that is a different scenario though.
I had a firmware update on my car fail (due to bugs in their system), but they decided to blame it on my dashcam that was hooked to the 12v system. They made me take the car back with old software and remove the dashcam before they would fix the car and apply current software. Total BS, but I had no choice if I wanted to receive updates. Several other owners (without dashcams) on cars with similar configurations to mine also had the same failures and they admitted it was a software issue and apologized. They made me drive to service an additional 2 times for no reason.
- - - Updated - - -
If you get this frequently, disable "energy saving" and check "always connected" and see if the problem goes away. It will use a bit more "vampire" power, but I don't find it to be a problem.�
Feb 16, 2016
mknox Why would that be? The DC-DC will kick in and "top up" the 12v as it trickles down periodically whether the car is "on" or "off", does it not? It's not like an ICE where the alternator is only replenishing the 12v when the car is running. I assumed the 12 v maintenance algorithm would be the same whether the car is on or not. I have heard it said that one problem might be that they let the 12v drain too far down before initiating a "top up".�
Feb 16, 2016
FloridaGary I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion.�
Feb 16, 2016
Ingineer Tesla could deny warranty on the 12v under the claim that your added load is deep-cycling it more. It's BS, but they could.�
Feb 18, 2016
mknox Could they? The car has 12v and USB ports in it. Do they expect us not to use them? (As I say, the charge/discharge cycle of the 12v is not like an ICE with an alternator and as far as I can tell is the same with the car on or off).�
Feb 20, 2016
Ingineer No, you did not follow my complete reasoning, see several posts back:The 12v/USB ports go off when he car goes to sleep, so they'd only have a leg to stand on for people tapping in directly.�
Feb 21, 2016
mknox Okay, maybe I'm missing something, but on the Model S, what difference does it make? Does the car do something differently with respect to replenishing the 12v when the car is "on" vs. when it is "off"? I know mine will engage the DC-DC converter from time to time when parked to top up the 12v and I assume the car does the same when I'm driving it. It's not like an ICE where the 12v will simply run down if the engine (alternator) is not keeping it topped up. Whether an accessory is switched or on all the time, the car should be doing the same thing to keep the 12v charged. Sure, it won't be doing it as much for a switched 12v load, but I am not sure why this would be a problem. A ton of other 12v stuff is always on in the Model S and it keeps the 12v maintained regardless. What would the warranty issue be?�
Feb 22, 2016
JRP3 You'd be putting greater load on the DC/DC and the battery, cycling them both more often.�
Feb 22, 2016
mknox Well, more duty cycles, but I doubt more load. My guess is that when the 12v gets to a certain point, the DC-DC starts its top-up process at or about the same current levels each time. The same would be true for someone who does not use the Energy Savings options vs. someone who does, or simply drives more for that matter. I'm still struggling to see how Tesla could make this a warranty issue.�
Feb 23, 2016
Ingineer They have the upper hand. They've already proven it to me more than once. If you do happen to have them refuse a claim, your only recourse is to sue them.
So what are YOU going to do if they decide to blame your aftermarket accessories on something? I had to capitulate or do without AP (or sue them).�
Feb 23, 2016
jerry33 Still, I've found they're better than the dealer who tries to stall fixing the problem until after the warranty expires so full price can be charged.�
Feb 24, 2016
mknox Fair enough. The only anomaly in my car is the dash cam that I wired in (with in-line fuse) to the dongle under the microphone grille. Tesla knows it's there because they unplug the camera every time I'm in for service. They haven't said anything to be about it (yet)!�
Feb 24, 2016
richardw0000 The Magnuson-Moss warranty act generally covers you for the installation of aftermarket accessories. This is the same act that is cited by car stereo shops as to why they can install radios aftermarket. This act is intended to put the burden of proof on the warrantor to provide evidence that the aftermarket accessory caused the warranty issue. https://www.sema.org/sema-enews/2011/01/ftc-validates-right-to-install-aftermarket-parts�
Mar 24, 2016
Lerxt Interesting about the aftermarket equipment. Here in Hong Kong I had my windshield replaced and they even reattached my blackvue camera with new tape in the process. They have no problem with cameras and they are not mentioned in the service receipt.�
Apr 21, 2016
Theshadows We got an email from service to bring our car in for a switch and power supply update that could take a couple of days... Does anyone know what this is about or heard of this before?�
Apr 23, 2016
FloridaGary Agreed. This worked for me also and was recommended by Tesla.�
Apr 24, 2016
Ingineer If the BMS (Battery Management System) detects high contactor resistance it's likely a sign of impending contactor failure. The car will then send an alert to service and if they get too many of them, I think they schedule a preventative contactor replacement.
The contactors are located in the battery pack and are effectively large high-voltage relays. There are 2 large main ones, one for positive and one for negative and there is also a smaller precharge relay that acts to prevent arcing in the main contactors by allowing them to switch "softly". These 2 contactors act as remote controlled switches that enable the ~400 volt high-voltage power to leave the battery and power things such as the Drive Unit and Climate control system, as well as recharge the 12V battery when it's low.
When you get in your car, you can hear the contactors closing as a "clunk clack" noise under the car in the back, and when the car goes to sleep you hear them open dull "thunk" sound. When the car is off in this state, there is a small 12V Lead-Acid (AGM) battery that powers the so-called "house" or "hotel" loads, such as the Touchscreen, Gateway, Security controller, etc. It also keeps the cellular modem powered so the car can be contacted by Tesla's servers. Because of this, the Gateway keeps an eye on the 12V charge level and when it gets low, it will ask the BMS to close the contactors to enter 12V support mode and recharge it using energy from the main pack. Once it's charged the contactors will again open and the car will go back to sleep. This happens several times each day and night. Since this cycles the 12V battery each time, and it's very small compared to most car batteries, it has a relatively short life. Tesla's 12V battery choice in the early cars was not as good as the red C&D ones they now use, so those rarely even made it to a year old before failure.�
Apr 24, 2016
Theshadows The red C & D ones you are referring to is that the 12v battery? I know we have a D pack for our main pack.
Thank you very much for the detailed response. It is really helpful.�
Apr 27, 2016
Ingineer Yes C&D is the manufacturer of the 12v battery. This has nothing to do with the main pack.�
Apr 28, 2016
markn455 Speaking of 12V battery, I am an Amateur Radio Operator and would like to put a small UHF/VHF transceiver in my MS. I need to find access to 12V (switched or unstitched) in the Frunk or the Trunk area that would support about 1 amp most of the time and about 6-7 amps for brief moments when transmitting. Do you have any experience with adding 12V accessories on a MS?�
Apr 28, 2016
apacheguy @Ingineer - How can I read raw 12 V voltage (what the gateway sees when determining when the close the contactors and boot up the DCDC)? Is this on the powertrain or body can bus?�
Apr 29, 2016
Ingineer In the frunk, the passenger side fusebox under the cowling cover is a good place. The only thing in the rear would probably be the feed for the hatch lift motor. Even f you don't have that option, the wiring is still present. It's unlikely you'll be transmitting while the hatch is opening/closing, so that will save a lot of wiring.�
Apr 29, 2016
Ingineer It's likely available on CAN, but I haven't bothered to map it yet. It's available by JSON query to 192.168.90.100:4035 on the Ethernet network as "12VBatteryVoltage". Current is also available as "12VBatteryCurrent".�
May 2, 2016
Forty Creek Not sure if this has been observed, reported on a previous page. I'm seeing some rust on the rear hatch door strut. Strange, that this area is generally kept dry. The photo below is of the passenger side strut. The driver's side strut is showing only a tiny rust mark.
Anyone else had this issue?
�
May 2, 2016
Kalud I've got exactly that, replaced under waranty. They actually replaced the whole strut including the part that goes on the hatch door.
�
May 2, 2016
Forty Creek Hey, thanks Kalud. I am passed the original warranty but purchased the extended one. Guess I should have pointed this out at the 80,000 km mark but it wasn't as obvious then. I'll have it looked after when I reach 100,000 kms several months from now.�
May 2, 2016
Kalud I guess you could replace the clip only for almost nothing.�
May 2, 2016
Forty Creek True, it does look like it should be a simple fix.�
May 2, 2016
James Anders Sure looks like someone should be paying more attention to galvanic corrosion.�
May 3, 2016
Duckjybe Timely. Yesterday I was scratching at the rust on mine to see how bad it was. I am also still getting water dripping out of the bumper pads of the hatch when I open it after a rain.
Mine is going in a couple weeks for motor hum. I am at 120,000 km and have had my drive unit replaced once already. Wipers are also making a ticking noise.�
May 3, 2016
209California I've owned my '13 S P85 for a couple of months, up to 66k miles on it. When i gently tap on the accelerator whether it be drive or reverse the initial tap generates this strange clicking sound, not sure if its drive shaft or from the motor. Is this a normal sound?�
Jun 18, 2016
Oyvind.H Anyone had problems with creaking from the steeringwheel? Not the steeringwheel itself, but when manouvering at slow speed (i.e. when parking) i get some creaking/clicking sounds fron the steeringwheel. You can hear it quite well outside the car. Might be something with the steering-rack.
I`m quite sure it`s not related to the undercarriage or suspention. I had a problem with a bolt on my old S85 that made a sound every time I turned the wheel all the way in parking scenarios. And I know how defective parts in the undercarriage sounds and feels. This is different. It`s sudden creaks from the steering-rack. Very noticeable both inside and outside the car. Like the sound when hard plastic snaps. But since it`s so loud outside the car, and constant, it`s probably not plastic.
Reason why I`m asking is:
1. Is it a known error/what`s the problem
2. Is it easy to fix
3. Is it dangerous
I`m going on holiday very soon. The chance of getting an appointment at a service center here in Oslo within a week are slim. But I might try if it`s important to get it looked at before a long vacation/road trip.�
Jun 19, 2016
JRP3 I don't know the answer but a cracking sound related to the steering is certainly something I would have checked out immediately.�
Jun 19, 2016
RatRace Being out here in AZ can get pretty hot, however HVAC wise I have my A/C set to 68 - 70 degrees..near the end of my 30 minute commute my A/C turns off for about 5 minutes. and I get this warning. Every day since passing 100 degrees this seems to happen to me. I brought it up to our center and they said everything is operating as it should and they added more fluids to the battery, but that I should expect this. Considering AZ that the temp in the car rises quickly in the car, and after 5 minutes the car was at 80 degrees inside. This gets a little uncomfortable for me, and I have my child in there, betting shes getting uncomfortable as well. Has anybody ran into this issue.
Sometimes I get this warning...
![[?IMG]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5dltZhvv8hllSXHnQb2-s6A9NO_L2kkpVOd48AICEV0BqH-vHSxMOH12e4QrqllCwYWQg7GLpR-kIr3jUUWZONueaLifTX3ijKQlErp6bLwcbLpGKzjfsqDTe1T4CMjimhgie0ihUwYuqP6meGruOqJsYa0e0p1bF69DZ_GabR_Iz3h8H6CX0rlyfKRsAhPq5EMUL6IgezxvUwvcf5XyUXaBQ0t8FbQ8y8Al2t62oLYTb7c809Ec9_DfNngKRX8ZBCqPKNI5yQBSPk_HMHl6g1LHhnk30vxtBHew0R2cqOizBb1vYoUWqSsbZV815nWAMX2pUJieZpNLD14iksoKUiPv0Lws3GP7MoAV5okYkWyzLxI71BKvfFiPypoOv9lY5Pp84k5SZB1YIK_6d20hec0XohowgTMs-vS0hLgcHVazFn2fQjR5PiVuVdp7vf7xRhu-LDJfL-HutNezRvm6chRmy7uVxfndLBe0DgPuL7omiFU1-grHfHYqzOF3iowaYbhLOns5O98aAdVoD_UXtTdYp023D_jcr8_rmwOQfB9N_l4_nsnknkPbMx_ZXDvDaKbpUHvpLPlSg4koQZP89JlNjoZoxR0=w1620-h911-no)
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Jun 20, 2016
Duckjybe My early SP85 has had this since I got it. It is a slight flexing of the steering rack attachment points. It sounds like a pop can flexing. They put shims and retorqued the bolts a couple years ago which reduced the noises significantly but it still makes an ever so slight click click sound when turning the wheel in parking lots. I figured this is not a problem in the newer vehicles. There was a technical service bulletin out for it. My issue was not a safety concern at all.�
Jun 21, 2016
Ingineer There is a TSB that indicates to put some kind of special diamond coated friction shims in there to keep the rack from popping. My car was doing it, and since I couldn't locate the special diamond friction shims, I just loosened it and put some cyanoacrylate glue on the mating surfaces and tightened it down. Problem solved.�
Jun 23, 2016
blee321 does anyone have a link to the service bulletin ? My car started doing this just this week... 2015 85D�
Jun 23, 2016
Oyvind.H Stopping by the service-center tomorrow morning to have a mechanic listne to it. Just to check if it`s a safety issue. I`ll post the results
Never had this with the old S85.�
Jun 24, 2016
ggr I have a weird one for you. Last Sunday, which was insanely hot in SoCal, around 100 degrees, I parked my car in the morning inside an un-conditioned garage. At least it was out of sunlight and a bit cooler than outside. I got back at about 7pm, and the car said it had dangerously low tire pressure, pull over safely. Car had not moved in that time. I pulled it out to where the road service guy could get to it, and they got a spare rim and tire from Tesla, swapped it out, and took the low (about 16psi) tire/wheel to the service center.
Here's where the story gets strange. No-one could see anything wrong with the tire, and the barrel-of-water test didn't show any leak. So they pumped it up and left it overnight. It lost 4psi overnight. So they put a new tire on (the original was almost new...). Pumped it up, and it lost another couple of pounds overnight. There's only minor curb rash on the rim, and that has been there for ages, there was definitely no new damage within the last few weeks.
It doesn't appear to be the valve (that would show in the barrel), and I've never heard of a leak through the rim itself. But that's all I can think of. Anyone seen anything like this before?�
Jun 24, 2016
James Anders Had a similar thing years ago. Porosity in the wheel casting. Air was slowly leaking through the pores of the aluminum. Bad casting.�
Jun 24, 2016
scaesare I had this same issues on my early 2013 S85.�
Jun 26, 2016
Oyvind.H Had a mechanic listen to the sounds, and as you guys said: it`s shims that need to be added. A bit surprised that a "know" error like this is still present, and that I have this on the -16 but not on the -13. But I got an appointment in september. 3 month wait is an improvement.�
Jun 26, 2016
greentea My BF has a first generation model S and brought this issue of a weird buzzing noise that our car makes about a year ago. Could be linked to suspension issue upon reading up on google. Tesla denies we ever inquired about it even though we brought the issue up the last time they fixed some broken thing in our car due to their poorly manufactured inside.
Fast forward a year later, our car had a recall so they brought it in to their shop. They told us our suspension was broken. We inquired about our automatic headlight sensor not functioning properly as well. Was charged a total of a little over 1K (almost 1.5k) due to their inexperienced in manufacturing cars.
Our family has two lexus that we've own for over a decade each and their automatic headlight sensor STILL WORKS to THIS DAY. Yet tesla denies it's their responsibility because we are out of warranty. I asked the rep to SHOW US HOW TO MAINTAIN THESE MALFUNCTIONS so we do NOT have to pay thousands more for their faulty cars. Seriously, how do you maintain something like automatic headlight sensor to prevent this from happening again, only after 2 or so years. They told me no idea but steven from tesla will call us. WHO IS STEVEN and WHEN WILL HE CALL?
I have a deposit on a model 3 for myself but will have to reconsider all these extra added hidden fee due to their inexperienced in car manufacturing. My life & our hard earned money is more important than to have a model 3.�
Jun 28, 2016
ggr By way of update, the wheel was indeed the problem. Why it would suddenly go sour after nearly 4 years is an open question. There was nothing visibly wrong with it, but by process of elimination, that was what stopped the tire going down.�
Jun 29, 2016
JRP3 Micro corrosion developing over time in a porous casting, finally letting air escape, maybe.�
Jun 29, 2016
Gregsbeach It happens here too.....but only at superchargers. Close the darn thing and it pops back out. See lots of other cars driving away with the reflector open, so we are not alone!�
Jun 29, 2016
Gregsbeach I have another "gripe" for you. I was three miles from my house, and had between 30-40 miles of range on my car. IT was over 100 degrees out, and tried to use my tesla app to turn on the A/C. The darn thing says "due to low battery level this is not available". WTF....what brilliant programmer locks you out of a feature like that?�
Jun 29, 2016
travwill Yeah, mine did that too the other day with about 50 miles left. Seems to kick in when about 20-25% of battery is left and below.�
Jun 29, 2016
scottm That's a robot for ya, self preservation kicks in when power source is being threatened, by inconvenient meatware trying to use creature comforts like, you know, HVAC.
At least you know where you sit in the AI algorithm running these things.�
Jul 1, 2016
GridSpace Has anyone else had A/C issues since last night's software update? I was able to reset/reboot the car and it "fixed" itself. The dealer told me they had another call on the exact same issue within 5 minutes of my call.�
Jul 2, 2016
MartinW My 90D arrived in Cleveland last Tuesday. Pickup scheduled for last Thursday. On Wednesday noon my DS called to delay pickup due to "issue with the parking break". No further details as of Friday pm. Had anyone else had this? Should I be worried it's significantly more than this that's wrong? Did I get a lemon?
Would appreciate comments and advice.�
Jul 2, 2016
BertL I frankly would not be concerned. BE HAPPY that Tesla caught some manufacturing issue in their pre-delivery process. Things could always happen in the plant and get resolved with an owner never even hearing about it. I'm not aware of pervasive issues with the brake, and people tend to post anything potentially bad somewhere around TMC -- but not post what is likely the more normal "everything is peachy keen" sorta thing.
I know waiting a bit longer for your MS is a royal pain in the !(#$*@#$ and it's what in part makes you wonder what's going on. Just hang in there and you'll have your new toy soon.�
Jul 2, 2016
MartinW Ok. That sounds good. Thanks for your insight. Will be fun to get it when ready.�
Jul 2, 2016
JRP3 I'd say be happy they found the problem before you took delivery. A bit early for "lemon" speculation, don't you think?
*Edit: Didn't see that Bert had already said the same thing, hate to be redundant�
Jul 3, 2016
Otmar I've had my new Model S for a 11 days and over 700 miles and I haven't had a single problem. Should I be worried? Most importantly, I want to know what is Tesla going to do about it!? ;-)
Enjoy these fantastic cars!�
Jul 4, 2016
NikeWings Like the others here, I would not worry. And don't equate the length of delay with the severity of the problem. Its a long weekend, a popular vacation week (for Tesla service techs too) and the boom in recent deliveries has probably created some high-pressure backlog that needs to be moved out/booked.. Congrats and enjoy!�
Jul 4, 2016
MartinW Thanks all for your comments. I'm hoping for a roadtrip to Cleveland sometime this week.�
Jul 8, 2016
Skipdd I have a charge port opening issue that just surfaced after uploading 2.24.102. I'm posting here vs the 7.1 thread until I/we determine 100% that it's related to the update.
Issue - when the car is charging and I try to stop the charging and remove the cable, I cannot do so from the fob. My usual practice has been to double click the center portion of the fob to unlock the car. Then the charge port is unlocked and I can depress the button on the charging cable, the port ring turns white and I remove the cable. Now when I unlock the car from the fob, and then depress the cable button the charge port cycles through to white but just for a second, then turns green. The only way I have been able to remove the cable is to manually stop the charging from my iPhone.
I just had the car at the Service Center July 1 for the annual/12,500 mile service (learned that annual isn't really annual
Any ideas?
Thanks.�
Jul 8, 2016
GlmnAlyAirCar Yes, I encountered the same problem. I would do as you do and press the cable button and see it turn briefly white. I discovered I now have to hold the button the entire time I am removing the cable, otherwise it locks again. Hope this helps.�
Jul 8, 2016
Skipdd Thank you! That worked. I like a simple solution�
Jul 9, 2016
MartinW Brief update: After technicians worked on my faulty parking brake they identified the wire harness as the culprit. After several days (10 in total) the technicians were unable to identify the exact problem in the "80 miles of wiring". My DS sensed that I was becoming uncomfortable with this particular car (what else is wrong in the 80 miles of wiring?), so he offered a new build. A very good solution - I am in no particular hurry.�
Jul 9, 2016
kort677 what do you mean by a new build?�
Jul 9, 2016
BertL I'll bet: "A new (aka different) car, built to his original specs with a new build and ship date." From other threads, Tesla has done this before in specific, perhaps similar, situations where the future owner is loosing confidence in their vehicle as it's delayed in the post-factory-build/pre-delivery process.�
Jul 9, 2016
MartinW Exactly that. Very generous of Tesla.�
Jul 9, 2016
rxlawdude And then the car becomes an Inventory vehicle available for sale at or near original price. Don't ask (about post-build/pre-delivery problems), don't tell.�
Jul 11, 2016
Big-Al
I have the exact same problem with my S70D delivered just 2 weeks ago.. I noticed the creaking noise shortly after I took possession of the car. I made an appointment today to have the noise checked. The Service person who took my information told me that this was a known problem and that a "service bulletin" had been issued and that Tesla was working on a solution. It was not considered a safety issue, but was something that was going to be addressed. That said, my service appointment is a month from now so I won't get an answer any time soon... Hope this helps!�
Jul 12, 2016
Kensiko I have my S60 since 2 weeks and quickly noticed the stronger noise coming possibly from the power electronic when flooring the pedal. Is that normal ?
You can hear it, sorry for the cellphone hitting the center console.
http://menu-principal-forums-aveq.1097349.n5.nabble.com/file/n47891/VID_20160712_122257_mp4_Output_1.mp3
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Jul 14, 2016
209California Hey guys a follow up from my service visit and my post form March 5th..got my vehicle back about 2 weeks ago, my suspension is now pulling to the right and my screen still needs repair : ( Another visit. But service center has been great.
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Jul 16, 2016
dgpcolorado I think I saw someone else report this but can't find it. Yesterday I got an error message in the IC, something to the effect that "Service needed, Power reduced" (didn't have a camera handy for a picture). I managed to limp home on very reduced power, mostly <20 kW but it got down below 10 kW and down to 12 mph on the steepest portion (14% grade) of the thousand foot hill I use to get to my neighborhood. "Power reduced" indeed! I was fortunate that nobody was behind me.
When I got home and the car shut off I started it again and the message was gone. I took the car out for a couple of miles and everything seemed normal. Made a call to the Tesla roadside number and chose the service center option but nobody picked up (Friday evening). Didn't really need roadside assistance at that point.
Now, of course, I don't know whether I can trust the car; I plan to make a trip down the hill again today and will see what happens. The obvious thing to do, schedule an immediate service visit, is difficult since I am 337 miles from the Denver Service Center and 376 miles from the Salt Lake City Service Center. But I'll do it if I have to, although if the power gets reduced again it is tow time since 10-20 kW isn't going to cut it on hundreds of miles of freeway and mountains.
Anyone have this happen before? Is it safe to drive the car?
Edit: Called the Denver Service Center and they are going to try to figure out what is going on by pulling the logs. Since this is my only car I don't have other options for getting around short of calling neighbors.�
Jul 18, 2016
Zextraterrestrial Has anyone ever had this string of errors? Happened to my Coworker's wife this weekend while she was driving...they are a bit upset...2013 S85
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Jul 19, 2016
ggr It's reminiscent of a problem we had with our Roadster, where the CAN-BUS wires got chafed and shorted and started garbling random bus messages. You definitely have a problem, but it's probably none of the things being reported...�
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