May 26, 2014
Theshadows A good gps is spot on. My car is slow by 2 mph at 65. This is usually intentional because of having to fight a speeding ticket, or worse a fatality, the manufacturers do not want to be held liable.�
May 26, 2014
Lloyd The mobile signs are confirming 58 when traveling 60. GPS speed and hash marks confirm.�
May 26, 2014
Theshadows Another good way to test is to set your cruise at 60 and time exactly between mile markers on an interstate. Though with gps that is pretty old school.�
May 26, 2014
ecarfan My understanding is that it is typical for car speedos to be 2 or 3 mph high.�
May 26, 2014
mknox Glad you got it fixed. I was getting a similar sounding "creak" from the rear of the car, but not as serious sounding as yours. On a lark, I got my torque wrench out and checked all of my lug nuts. For the most part, they were all at spec, but a couple of the nuts did turn a tiny fraction before the torque wrench "clicked". Since then, I have not had any further creaking sounds.�
May 27, 2014
jerry33 BMW and other European car makers do it because there are very stiff penalties if the speedometer ever shows less than the speed you are traveling.�
May 27, 2014
cmjohnsondds I had this noise early on. It was actually the frame of the car that needed to be reTorque in someway. The mechanic took car for about a day and when it was returned the noise was gone.�
May 27, 2014
JRP3 More likely something that is bolted to the frame, since the frame is likely a welded unit.�
Jun 1, 2014
cobster I wanted to post my experience with European Motor Car Works in Santa Ana, one of the few body shops licensed to work on Teslas. This photo shows what my driver's side view mirror looked like when I left their shop, after they took 3 weeks to repair my front nose cone (at a cost of over $6,000).
They thought the casing was "loose" so decided to "help me out" by ripping it off. Apparently a Tesla body shop doesn't know the lower casing is screwed on?? Needless to say, after two weeks of back and forth they refuse to take any responsibility for the damage. Anyone else have similar experiences with them? Have no idea whether they did a good job on the nose cone, all I can tell is that is more difficult to close my hood ever since they got it but any new nose cone looks the same, can't tell if they screwed up anything internally without taking everything off (which I am very tempted to do now).
Oh, almost forgot to mention that they apparently took the car for a joy ride while they had it for 3 weeks - check out the energy spike it had when I picked it up:
They tried to tell me this was due to "charging the car up". Ha!
If Tesla Service wants to send you to European Motor Car Works in Santa Ana, insist they send you somewhere else.�
Jun 1, 2014
Theshadows I would report it to ownership. Even though it's a third party shop tesla should be able to put some pressure on them to treat you right and fess up to the mirror and the joyride.�
Jun 1, 2014
drees Have a service center check out the frunk, too.
Should be easy to verify if any joy rides were taken by looking at the odometer. Perhaps Tesla can pull the driving history of the car for you, too. There has been a case where it looked like a shop took a car out for a joy ride, but it turned out they just left the car on while working on it.�
Jun 1, 2014
RclKag The speedometer is probably calibrated from "axle" rotation, for when the tires are new, and the correct circumference.
As tires wear, the circumference becomes smaller, but the axles are still turning the same amount.�
Jun 3, 2014
glhs272 Yesterday I got a warning message on the Speedo display screen. "Car needs service/contact Tesla service" Rebooting screens did not make the message go away. I contacted Tesla Service in Highland Park, IL. They remotely pulled the logs. It appears one of the coolant pumps is sending a fault code. Tesla indicated that the car will need to be serviced in order to clear the fault message. However, they said it is still OK to keep driving it. They indicated they would like to keep the car at least a day to diagnose and repair. Unfortunately they have no available loaners at this timeI am going to hold off for a week in hopes of getting a loaner available.
�
Jun 3, 2014
pete8314 In the UK at least, the rule for manufacturers is that the speedo must read the correct speed, or up to 10% higher, but never lower. At least, that's how it used to be, which just means that everyone one just learning to drive assumes you can drive 10% faster than what the speedo reads because, obviously, your car is super accurate
The same theory works in reverse, that if a posted speed is 40mph, and it has a speed camera, then you're generally safe doing 44 though the trap. Can't confirm that completely, but I must've done about 150k miles around the M25 through many speed cameras, and never got a ticket.�
Jun 4, 2014
cwerdna My Nissan Leaf Forum View topic - Speedometer calibration ?
Speedometer Error about 1 MPH?--Some evidence | PriusChat�
Jun 11, 2014
glhs272 As a follow-up on this issue:
I continued to drive the car for a few days until a loaner was available, per OK from Tesla. I didn't have to wait long. Once Tesla had their hands on it, they confirmed the issue was the Motor Inverter Coolant Pump (6007373-00-C). Pump was replaced, issue fixed. I am not sure where this pump is located or if it is part of the motor drive unit. The motor drive unit was replaced last month due to noise. The unit was replaced with a refurbished one. The drive unit works perfectly, no noise. I wonder if this pump is part of the drive unit or was original to the car.�
Jun 11, 2014
Otmar All three coolant pumps on the Model S are located in the front, under the frunk liner.�
Jun 13, 2014
islandbayy This is what the ranger did at my home last week Friday. Same error.�
Jun 13, 2014
JPP ....me three...I got the error a few days ago after parking in a very hot closed garage (100+ F) and charging at 240V 40A for 2 hours. Unplugged my UMC, got in, stepped on the brake, got the same error. Rebooted everything--no joy. Called TM Service line...logs show problems with coolant pump. They say OK to drive while local Service Center waits for parts--backorder on the pump.
FWIW, I have 15 months and 16k miles on my S.�
Jun 14, 2014
Theshadows We had the clicking steering wheel problem and took it to the service center. They installed two bushings and retorqued everything. About a week after we had it fixed I thought I heard a single click as I turned the wheel to lock. Then a few days later I heard it again. Well, yesterday I was parallel parking downtown and it clicked almost the whole time while I completed the maneuver.
I'm hoping that they will send a ranger for free since they didn't fix it right the first time and I live 170 miles from the closest service center.�
Jun 16, 2014
mknox Supercharger Connection Problems
Thought I would post here rather than start a new thread.
Took my first Supercharger trip last weekend, hitting the Angola IN, Mishawaka IN and Aurora IL Superchargers. At each location, I had issues getting the car to connect. At my first stop, I kept getting a red ring, so I moved to another stall and continued to get a red ring. After futzing around for a bit, it finally connected and went green, but when I got back in the car and sat down, it disconnected. I realized that I had to very carefully plug the cable in "just so" and not touch the car or cable again, else it would disconnect. This was the case at every Supercharger stop I made.
Just wondering if this is common. I already had my charge port on the car replaced because of UMC connection problems, and since then, UMC, HPWC and J1772 adapter connections have been rock solid.
I'm going to ask Service to look into this at my next visit, but with no Superchargers in Canada, I wonder how they will be able to verify and diagnose?�
Jun 16, 2014
pete8314 Never had that issue, it doesn't sound normal. Maybe they'll be able to see something in the logs to clue them in?�
Jun 16, 2014
wycolo Aurora, IL: The SpC nearest the RoundHouse was DEAD for me both coming and going on a recent trip. The other one worked fine. These are skid-mounted portable units with cable runs in trenches under loose gravel. The one that doesn't work is labeled '120' rather than the '208? or 440?' on the working one.
Cheyenne, WY: The uphill charger recently kept going bonkers (and killing the session) for me as I opened the driver's door to get back in the car. After several tries figuring this out it settled down for a complete session. I had climbed in the back door and slept like a log until 5am. :smile:
These are the only issues I've had so far with SpChargers out of ~36 sessions.
--�
Jun 16, 2014
Kalud Not necessarily your issue but I really start to wonder if Tesla should start shipping cleaning kit for the charge port contact and UMC/HPWC, like contact cleaner and small brushes. I was having similar issues at home and did a good cleaning of both side and it did a HUGE difference, it basically works as new. Talked to a ranger and he said, "when we do 100km to reach a client we cannot just clean the contact and hope it works we swap the cable and/or chargeport, then the owner is 100% satisfied and the issue resolved" but he agreed that when inspecting some chargeport they are extremely dirty. I must say that the contact cleaning also reduced a lot the heat generated while charging, not that its a surprise, but still a good indication that its a good measure.
Most of my issues were with the tiny proximity and pilot signals at the bottom, it any of those have dirty contact you get very inconsistent connections, port clicking, green, white, green, white, red...�
Jun 16, 2014
shark mknox,
depending on how long you are staying in Chicago, you might want to contact the Highland Park Service Center as they have a supercharger at that location.�
Jun 16, 2014
Chipper I had that problem but I noted that I just needed to push a little harder on the plug to get it farther into the socket. Then I heard the familiar loud CLICK! and the green flickers and system powered up.�
Jun 17, 2014
mknox Well, I got the click, the ring turned from white to blue, then a second or two later it would turn red. On a couple of occasions, just getting in to the car or touching the cable ever so slightly would cause the charging to halt as well. Thankfully, after several attempts at each Supercharger I was able to get it to work. My port and the cable ends both looked very clean to my eye, and my UMC and J1772 adapter work perfectly. Kalud's suggestion of a cleaning kit is a good idea.
- - - Updated - - -
That's the one I used while there, and after a couple of red rings, it finally did connect and work for me. I was the only car at the one closest to the Roundhouse, and there was one at the other "pair" as well. It looks like they've filled the trenches with "cold patch" asphalt now. It stuck to my tires and splattered out into my wheel wells as I drove away!�
Jun 18, 2014
Eggplant @Mr. KNox
I had a similar issue early on with my car. Turned out to be a bad connection from the charger unit inside the car. Some path only used when charging >40 Amps. (It happened when super charging and on HPWC, but not NEMA 14-50). The replaced a simple connector and resolved the issue.�
Jun 18, 2014
mknox Thanks. I'll mention that at my next service. Not a burning issue as we don't have Superchargers anywhere near me yet, and the other charger connections (including HPWC in my case) all seem to be working perfectly.�
Jun 19, 2014
Jeff Miller It's unfortunate that you are having this problem especially on your first supercharger trip. Have you used any non-superchargers along the way?
Coincidentally, When I left for work yesterday, I noticed the same red ring when I went to unplug the car. The car had only partially charged. I'd never seen that before. So after reading about your experience, I just went down to the garage and looked and I see the same problem today - red ring and only a partial charge. Yesterday I was careful to make sure I had a good connection (flashing green) and the car did start charging, but it stopped. I just downloaded the latest software so am wondering if this might be related.�
Jun 19, 2014
mibaro2 Good to know. I've only had a flashing red, white circle one or two times. Sounds like cleaning it can't hurt, and made it work like new for you.�
Jun 19, 2014
mknox The UMC, J1772 adapter and HPWC all work perfectly every time. It was only with Superchargers that I had the issue.�
Jun 19, 2014
Jeff Miller Glad to hear that. I guess my issue must be unrelated.�
Jun 24, 2014
Modelxvin1365
I Find it interesting that the Model s exhibits that style of behavior shutting off when both peddles are depressed. Wouldn't it be safe to say that a more conventional approach to this situation would be a regular audible warning as currently implemented without powering off the car? The reason i propose this solution is because i for one have depressed Both peddles atleast 6 or so times within the past 7 years not because of laziness but due to Certain Footwear (Construction boots vs flip flops,Snow boots,Sneaker) and frequently driving vehicles that are not primarily my own. On occasion there you may have needed to move your foot 2 extra centimeters or not depending on the brand of car. Imagine if a family member who is not a tesla "Expert" borrowed you vehicle and due to depressing both peddles the car automatically shut off? There immediate reaction would be a frantic phone call to you stating "your call just turned off i dont know what happened" Fruit for thought�
Jun 25, 2014
ggr This is silly. The car doesn't shut off. It just beeps at you, and the brakes override the accelerator.�
Jul 15, 2014
skn Just had the door handle not extending issue and got it fixed at SC (NL/AMS) in about 10 minutes. They told me there was a bug and they have "sorted it out." I wonder if sorted = bug fix or sorted = reset (and pray)?!�
Jul 26, 2014
AmpedRealtor Looks like I need a new battery coolant pump! Car threw up a service warning this morning. SC says it's okay to drive, but that supercharging rate will be limited until the pump is replaced.
I had all three coolant pumps replaced a few months ago. Um...�
Jul 26, 2014
Berkut Same thing happened to me. They came out to the house and replaced it.
Hopefully this trend doesn't continue. Particularly for cars operating 100 deg F weather.�
Jul 26, 2014
Bardlebee So 1600 Miles in and loving this car that is more then I would ever pay for anything else in my life. But I have a problem.
I have a 14-50 plug and recently I came back from a 2 week trip where I set the charge limit to 50 percent. Everything was fine for two weeks while I was out and I missed my car.
When I came back, I set it to my normal 90 percent, I have done 90 percent since day one and haven't seen mileage drop yet, anyway when my car charges now sometimes it stops!!
Here are the symptoms:
A) Car will have the error "Unable to charge, unplug and replug"
B) Another error is "Check cable or power source"
C) The cable has a green light and the port on the car is blue when it stops charging
D) When I attempt to unplug and replug it in I get a charging green light
E) The amperage will go quickly up to 40 Amps (which is normal, its always done 40 Amps) and then all of a sudden drop to ZERO
F) After dropping to zero it sets it to max of 30 Amps and then climbs back up and hovers around 16-30 Amps consistently
G) All the while I have the errors showing up from A) and B)
I am not sure what is causing this as it still charges, albeit a hell of a lot slower and even sometimes it stops charging which catches me by surprise when I have to wake up to that. I am going to call Tesla on Monday but I figured I would ask what you guys think it may be. Sounds like the cable to me because if the Amperage can get up to 40 but then crashes, it sounds like maybe the cable is unable to handle that Amperage for whatever reason.�
Jul 27, 2014
bsd Sounds like the same problem I (and others) had: it's a bad UMC.
Edit: the relevant thread.�
Jul 27, 2014
teslasguy I often see my car change my amp setting from 30 to 40 amps by itself. I set it to 30, then when I plug in for my next charge it has defaulted back to 40 amps.�
Jul 27, 2014
dirkhh Is this at the same location? IIRC the amp seeing is location specific...�
Jul 27, 2014
tezco Known firmware issue discussed here and in firmware threads. Mine resets to 80A on occasion. Some folks are seeing multiple charging icons on the map at their home address.�
Jul 27, 2014
dirkhh That sounds like GPS errors making the car think it's a different location�
Jul 27, 2014
Bardlebee Ah, that is good to hear. I have Tesla coming out Monday to look at it, called them today and they were prompt to tell me they would contact me back when the SC was open. Which is pretty sweet, they are going to come out to my house. I don't have a SC out in San Antonio yet, so I guess they have traveling guys do the work. Sounds pretty open and shut.
A bit disappointed I had a problem this early, but frankly as long as its not the car I am not worried about it. I don't believe that it is the car and I was highly suspicious of the UMC myself. It pretty much points to it almost.�
Jul 28, 2014
shrink I bought a used Model S about 2 months ago from an owner in Seattle. I live in Phoenix. After 1-week in the desert, I got a service needed warning and Tesla replaced one battery coolant pump. A week later they called and said after checking some more algorithms, they wanted to change the 12 volt battery. They sent a ranger to replace the latter at no charge.�
Jul 28, 2014
AmpedRealtor Service advised that there is nothing wrong with the pump, it is simply a communication error in software. They said engineering is hoping to push out a software fix this week. We all know how that goes. The software miscommunication causes charging to become limited at the supercharger, but has no impact on regular driving or charging.�
Jul 30, 2014
Bardlebee Welp, after 1800 miles... my charger is apparently on the fritz in the car. Carlos from Tesla came out. Awesome guy and impeccable service. I am not upset that its broken, just a bit disappointed it happened so fast.
Carlos was so cool though, I can't be upset. Tesla seems to be taking good care of me so I don't even worry about it.�
Aug 19, 2014
windward four warnings at the same time new car two months old
Does anybody had the same problem? Four warnings: ABS Needs Service - Traction control Disabled - Regenerative Braking Disabled- and Stability Control Disabled. All happened at the same time while driving. Also the steering wheel very hard, no power steering at all at any setting, sport, standard or comfort.
Stopped the car and called Tesla, they told me to turn car off, didn't work, drove to where I am staying away from home (I am from Florida on vacation in North Carolina) I have been without a car for two days. I was told yesterday they would try to reboot and work on it remotely and called me back, nobody did. I had expected better customer service from Tesla. I will follow up with them again today.
Anybody had a similar experience?�
Aug 19, 2014
qwk I have had this a few times, mainly in the winter when the tires got frozen in the wet snow. Going to Controls>E Brake and power off>shut car off, then closing the door for a minute cleared it every time. I think it's just an error that pops up when the traction control system senses a certain unusual condition.�
Aug 19, 2014
LarryC My 2 month old S85 has what I think is a speaker power line short. The standard left A-pillar speaker crackles for seconds at a time intermittently, sometimes when I turn the steering wheel, but this happens even when the the sound system is muted. At other times the AM radio will suddenly sound like the voices are coming from a distant tin can, and occasionally with an echo, then 5-10 seconds later it returns to normal. Both issues are very annoying and Tesla says they will look at, but I haven't had time to coordinate a service trip. Has anyone else experienced this?�
Aug 19, 2014
Forty Creek Yes.... I have had the static noise too and it only comes from the left A-pillar speaker. It sort of sounds like Morse code. Doesn't last long. Don't think it is associated with a turn of the steering wheel but I will have to pay closer attention next time. Thought I would mention it the next time I'm in for service.�
Aug 19, 2014
Duckjybe Sometimes, with my cell phone in the cubby, I can hear cell phone wireless noises in the speakers. Move the cell phone and it goes away.�
Aug 19, 2014
Forty Creek I'm not in the habit of leaving my cell in the cubby but will take note of its location the next time I hear the sound. It it a distinct sound pattern. The same every time. Maybe Elon is messaging me?�
Aug 19, 2014
gg_got_a_tesla Why Cell Phones Make Speakers Go "Blip Blip Blip Buzz" | Mental Floss�
Aug 20, 2014
mknox Interesting. I always leave my cell phone in the cubby and have never once had any of those wireless noises. FWIW, it's an older iPhone 4 on the Telus network.�
Aug 20, 2014
Forty Creek ...and iPhone 4s on Bell for me.�
Aug 20, 2014
dasRad I think the noise that some of us are experiencing is that when our phones drop back into EDGE mode (Enhanced Data Rates for GSM Evolution) there is radio interference. I do not experience the interference when my phone is running on LTE and I don't believe that it is a problem when the phone is connecting in "4G" (whatever that this!) or 3G mode.
Neither Telus nor Bell run a GSM network, hence no EDGE, no interference.
An aside. If you are looking for data speed, you want LTE. With a strong signal I've experienced download speeds as high as 106 Mbps in BC. In Vancouver I've seen 53Mbps, both down AND UP! Makes me wonder how much longer I'll bother with a wire based ISP.�
Aug 20, 2014
eVader If the sound is a crackle or Morse code like, then it could be your cell phone as Duckjybe suggested. It can occur when a GSM 2.75G or 3G smartphone (or possibly the Tesla Tech Pkg modem) handshaking with the GSM network when it is establishing a data connection. You may have experienced this during a business meeting when someone had their phone close to the speakerphone or headset. GSM is used by T-Mobile, ATT. Issue doesn't occur with Verizon and Sprint who use CDMA. If you have 4G coverage with any of the carriers this noise doesn't occur that i know of.�
Aug 20, 2014
LarryC I'll definitely check this, but in my case I hear the sound even when the sound system is on mute! How would cell phone interference do that?
Another problem I've experienced is if I plug my phone in to the USB port then turn on the car, the car seems to think there is an ongoing call and goes into call-in-progress mode. However, I cannot end the call form the steering wheel or the screen, mute the call or do anything else. The dash keeps track of the call time and the speakers emit an open line sound. The phone does not think there is a call so I can't end it there. The only way to stop it is to unplug the phone. This has happened 3 times now and is VERY annoying.�
Aug 20, 2014
jerry33 The speaker wires act as antennae.�
Aug 20, 2014
miimura More likely, it's being picked up by the wiring before the amplifier. Just because the audio is muted, doesn't mean the amplifier isn't running or the gain is way down.�
Aug 21, 2014
mknox Interesting, because I DO get the Bbrruupp...brruupp noise on my cheap work computer speakers from time to time with my Telus phone.
Agree except for the cost and ridiculously low bandwidth caps. My friend has a summer cottage and is suffering with 1 Mbps DSL (end of a long line) simply because the cost and caps of a Rogers, Bell or Telus fixed LTE solution are so out of range. He used to have a Rogers WiMax device that worked well, but was discontinued.�
Aug 21, 2014
Duckjybe I am on an iPhone running on the Bell network. I have only noticed the noises when I was in a low signal area. Does the iPhone try EDGE regardless of carrier if signal is low or non-existent?�
Aug 21, 2014
dasRad Not sure. With the exception of the CDMA version of the iPhone 4 (A1349), I think that every iPhone is EDGE capable. If you are roaming on a non-CDMA capable network (with a EDGE capable iPhone), I expect that the iPhone will drop back to EDGE from time to time, and as neither Bell nor Telus run a GSM network, I would think that the only time your iPhone would drop back to EDGE is if it is roaming. Again, not sure....�
Aug 29, 2014
Bugeater Last night drove a friend home to Saratoga, CA and as we drove away, noticed a rear window open. When I tried to close it, I heard a crunch! Drove a half mile to dinner. Had to slide the window up manually. Called Tesla Service and left a message since it was late. Tesla Service called just after 7:00am! The car is in the shop to replace both rear window actuators. I had the same issue with the other window over a year ago! They said that the actuators have since been redesigned and shouldn't have any issue again.
On another note, just yesterday my wife notices that the right front panel just above the Tesla emblem behind the front wheel had been keyed! Nearly a foot long deep scratch. The Tesla Service center called a body shop for a quote. They said it would be about $750 to repair.
In the mean time we are driving a loaner P+ with likely all options installed! Had my wife drive it to see how the parking sensors work. Would possibly upgrade our car to get them if we could. That's likely the only option I'm really am envious of.�
Aug 29, 2014
Bugeater Oh yea. When I asked the service guy said 6.0 is coming "soon"! I will believe it when I see it!�
Aug 31, 2014
dlmorgan999 This just happened on my car last week. They are going to valet me a loaner on Tuesday and get me all fixed up.�
Sep 1, 2014
Bugeater Got mine back Saturday. All better! Had them do a few other things too. I was told that the loaner I drove was driven by none other than Elon just before be! They replaced both rear actuators so I shouldn't see the problem again! Hope your car comes back all better too.�
Sep 4, 2014
bareyb Every once in a while when I unlock my doors, the passenger side door pops open! Has anyone seen this happen before?�
Sep 4, 2014
jerry33 Yes. There are a number of threads on this. The new handles that move supposedly fix it at the cost of not having the LED light the area as much. (Why they didn't move the hole for the LED out a bit when they changed the design is a mystery.) I've heard that some who have the new handles also have this problem, so it may be a software issue. I've found that a reboot reduces the occurrence for a while. (Note: It's the driver's side on my car)�
Sep 4, 2014
Bugeater I had this happen a long time ago. With the new handles I haven't seen the issue since. That was over a year ago. How old is your car?�
Sep 5, 2014
jerry33 There was a post yesterday in one of the other threads where it happened with the new handles.�
Sep 7, 2014
bareyb They just contacted me and I'll be going to the service center on Tuesday. I should correct, that it happens when I Unlock the door not when I lock it. It only happens once in a while but I may as well have them take a look. It sounds like they'll probably give me some of the newer handles. Were there any improvements made on the new handles? Why did they change them? Was it because they were popping open, or something else?�
Sep 7, 2014
Bugeater That's interesting. The original problem I had was that they popped open entirely on their own. Once when it happened to me I had been driving and parked. No less at a Tesla store. The handles wouldn't go in when I tried to lock the car so I checked and a door on the passenger side was open.
Others reported wild and wacko behaviour from handles not extending to extending when they shouldn't to not retracting at all.
The solution was to replace the handles once they thought they had fixed the hiccups.�
Sep 8, 2014
mrElbe Wrong, Bell and Telus are running a GSM network since the 2010 Olympics, sharing towers. They are also still running legacy CDMA for the older phones. Rogers on the other hand switched to GSM earlier and dumped their old TDMA service.�
Sep 8, 2014
dasRad GSM - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Telus Mobility - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaEDGE is 2G GSM. Telus and Bell won the communications contract for the Vancouver Olympics. They didn't have a GSM network and needed to put in an HSPA+ network in time for those Olympics or all the European visitors would be roaming on Rogers.�
Sep 19, 2014
bareyb I added a second Apple Airport Extreme Wireless Router to my home Network (second one is in Bridge mode) to improve signal throughout the house and in particular to the Garage where the Tesla sits. I've taken readings in the Garage with "WiFi Explorer" and the new Router is MUCH stronger in there than the old one, but for some reason my Car insists on connecting to the weaker Router rather than the stronger new one.
So here's the question: Is the car tied to the physical hardware address of the original Router in some way and defaults to that? If so, is there a way to reset it?�
Sep 20, 2014
shelbri I have a wifi repeater in my house in addition to the wireless router. Each is named differently. All you need to do is click Forget This Network on the connection you don't want and it will not automatically connect to it in the future.�
Sep 20, 2014
bareyb Mine is set up a little differently. We have a Roaming Network, so the SSID's are identical for both Routers. I did try Forgetting the Network and setting it up again, and was able to get it to connect to the stronger Router. Briefly... By the next morning it was back on the old one again. So it will connect to it, it just doesn't seem to be wanting to stay on it. Weird...�
Sep 22, 2014
aronth5 This thread's first posting was 9/27/2012. Now that we're approaching 2 full years of posts I thought it would be interesting to graph the number of posts for 6 month period.
Very unscientific method and lots of ways to interpret the data but nevertheless interesting. I took the total number of pages posted to this thread for each six month period and simply created the bar chart.
�
Sep 22, 2014
bareyb That's cool aron.
The two minor fixes I had were both fixed permanently. So they are finding good solutions. I might point out that both times they contacted ME about my concern and already had the appt. ready and waiting. It's like this thread is a direct pipeline to the Service Dept. If you want the same treatment put something similar to what I have in your signature.�
Sep 23, 2014
JRP3 Impressive considering that the total number of vehicles has greatly increased at the same time total number of issues have decreased.�
Sep 23, 2014
brianman I don't think we can really draw that conclusion. Discussion about issues has decreased, not necessarily the number of issues of TMC members... or of the general driving population.
I think it's more a trend of fewer forum members among buyers these days and fewer new and interesting issues cropping up. The latter is definitely a good sign, IMO.�
Sep 24, 2014
paco3791 I, for one, try NOT to repost an issue that has already been discussed. That's what the search function is for. However, I do get the impression that issues as a whole have been going down.�
Oct 4, 2014
Rahine
I was told it could be around $6800 to upgrade to parking sensors just FYI�
Oct 4, 2014
Bugeater Yea, I'm hearing prices along that line. Thanks! Still might be cheaper than constantly hitting the wheel stops.
Really wish they would make the wheel stops shorter!�
Oct 7, 2014
Causalien Not sure if I am posting in the right thread
Not sure if I am in the right thread. But here goes my question. I had a chance to drop by the Amsterdam store today as it was conveniently located on the major road to Van Gogh. There was a display of just the tesla's skateboard and battery pack, so I took some time to look over the welds.
This one is near the front passenger side wheel and I see quality issues with this. Does anyone know if it's because these displays are assembled from a different process? or if this is production quality?�
Oct 7, 2014
JRP3 I don't know, but I'd think if there were some early production issues those units might be sent off as display units, and, if there were quality issues in production that were significant they would have shown up as some structural weakness in the many accidents which have occurred.�
Oct 7, 2014
Todd Burch Agree, it's very likely that those with structural issues were the very ones chosen to be used for display units.�
Oct 8, 2014
Causalien Ah good. I need to find someone who dissassembled their Model S then.�
Oct 8, 2014
breser If you believe this post on reddit they are not built by Tesla but rather for Tesla by Brooks Motor Cars in Oakland. It's apparently done this way because the car is never in this state in manufacturing so you can't just pull a car off the line to get one of these.�
Oct 9, 2014
Duckjybe Seems you are a trader trying to drum up a problem. You must be short Tesla stock.�
Oct 20, 2014
AudubonB Completely by chance, the Scottsdale AZ gallery manager was discussing these welds with me as he and I were going over their sample skateboard just yesterday. Paraphrasing, "you can tell this is a pre-production chassis; completely handmade. The robot welds are precise to microns - look absolutely nothing like these."
So, I would say the one on display in Netherlands likewise has "such sloppy" welds. I just wish I could make my own aluminum welds look even anywhere near that nice!!!!�
Oct 21, 2014
bsd My car was in for its 1 year service today. They're quite serious about taking the cars out on the road to reproduce issues, but this seems above the call of duty:
�
Oct 21, 2014
AudubonB That's the best location yet! You don't suppose it signals Alaska might actually get its promised Service Center?
Naah, thought not.�
Oct 29, 2014
lalainyourface Hi everyone! I recently had my car delivered (9/27) and have had the best few weeks of driving yet. There are a few things that I had some questions about that although isn't a big deal, I was wondering what kind of issues are.
1. When I am driving between 30-65mph, there is a faint clicking noise. It's a repetitive click click every 3-4 seconds and seems to be coming from behind the driver's left side AC. I was informed by my Specialist that it is standard and all new cars have it and that it may be due to some kind of autopilot related issue? Is anyone else having this problem or should I make a video of the sound?
2. The car seems slanted. The left side is like an 8th inch to a quarter inch lower than the right. Is this something that is seen in other cars or would it possibly be an issue with the suspension springs? The bottom plastic liner near the rear drivers wheel seems deformed? Should I take some pictures for show here so that someone may help or explain?
Other than that, love the car to death and makes my work commute so much more fun!�
Oct 29, 2014
breser Sounds like it might be this:
issues on new cars
Don't know about your other issues.�
Oct 29, 2014
lalainyourface
This is exactly the sound I have! Now I know its not just me hearing this. Hopefully they will figure it out soon so I don't have to use music to drown it out :O. Thanks for the info and link.�
Oct 30, 2014
Todd Burch Issue #1 is the EM brake system "self check" sound, so says my service advisor. There is currently no fix for this yet.
For #2, do you have coil suspension or air? How can you feel a difference in an eighth to a quarter of an inch from one side of the car to the other? Pics will help.�
Oct 31, 2014
mknox I noticed something similar on my car. It seemed to be lower on one side than the other when approaching from the rear. At first, I just figured one wheel was in a depression or something. Later, I realized I could fit 3 fingers between the top of the wheel and the fender on one side, but only 2 fingers on the other. Not very scientific, but I had Service look at it. They told me that the suspension was working fine and is perfectly level, but that the body could still be off by a bit depending on how it was assembled (or something like that).�
Oct 31, 2014
JRP3 A half inch or so difference in the body seems like a lot.�
Oct 31, 2014
lalainyourface It's been raining today so I couldn't get great pictures. But the plastic underportion is deformed. Don't know if you guys have this issue. I tried to circle it in red. I will post better ones Sunday as it will be raining most of tomorrow in the bay.
- - - Updated - - -
Coil Suspension. I had a delivery specialist measure from the wheel rim to the arc and he said it differed 1/8th an inch, but I think it may be more. They said there isnt a safety issue, but I scheduled an appointment to have the bottom cover replaced as it is deformed. They will check out the suspension then.�
Nov 3, 2014
fstech I use Ubiquti unifi ap enterprise (sold on Amazon) you can buy two and have a true roaming network, works much better than any product I've seen. It's expandale to use as many access points you need to cover any given area. I have three ubiquti access points one in my garage and two in my home my devices always connect to the strongest access point. It's shows up as one ssid and you can see the devices connect to each ap via the included software. It's also poe and you can see all users signal strength so adjustments can be made in your layout configuration. Hope this helps!�
Nov 3, 2014
bareyb Oddly enough, the problem has resolved itself. It now consistently connects to the stronger router.�
Mar 9, 2015
Pilot_51 Temperature got up to a very comfortable 50F today and my car was hot (83F before I started pre-cooling), so when I got to my car, I opened the sunroof to vent. When I decided that wasn't enough and tried to open it further, it wouldn't budge, so I closed it and tried opening again and it wouldn't move, as though the software knew something was wrong and disabled it to prevent damage. I drove the whole way home with all 4 windows cracked open, which I almost never did last year when the sunroof was working. After I got home, I tried venting it remotely and noticed it moved slightly, a few millimeters with a slight overlap over the rear pano glass.
I remember a post somewhere about this issue (or similar) with a simple solution involving a seal that I could probably do myself, but I'm having trouble finding it again. It must be somewhere in this thread.
Update:
Got a voicemail from Cody at Cleveland service about my "sunroof concern" just before I left work. They really stay on top of the forums. :smile:
I was just going to wait for my June annual service if it continued to be a problem, since it's only a nice-to-have, not worth having a ranger come out when I have the annual coming up in 3 months.
When I got out to my car and called back at 5:35pm, no answer. Maybe they were busy or got off a little early. I'm not one to leave voicemails unless necessary, so I'll just try again tomorrow.
Anyway, the good news is that when I tried opening it this time, it opened with a little resistance and sort of a pop, and quickly improved as I opened and closed it a few times. I suspect the issue might have something to do with the grease not being lubricated for a few freezing months and/or a seal that I noticed was slightly sticky. I'll mention it to service and I'm sure they'll take a look at it on the annual to prevent it from happening again.�
Apr 18, 2015
Pilot_51 The first time I tried opening the sunroof after washing my car today, it got stuck just as I had previously mentioned. It also got stuck immediately after the last two times I took it to a touchless wash, suggesting water makes it worse. This time I got out to see if I could find the cause and saw the weather seal pulled up by the sunroof. I closed it again before I thought to take a photo and couldn't get it to stick again, but it was still catching while opening. I caught it on video and here's a frame grab of the seal being lifted.
Has anyone else experienced this and know an easy fix? I'll make sure Tesla takes care of it on my annual service in a couple months. It doesn't bother me too much, otherwise I would have found the cause much earlier.�
Apr 19, 2015
cmjohnsondds Service will fix it! My 2013 did this and also presented with the seal not perfectly seated in its channel. I didn't watch what they did, but it was fixed and it never happened again. (Just ordered my 2015 dual motor P85 and will trade in the chocolate brown "60" 2013! Love the car)!�
Apr 25, 2015
Forty Creek Not sure if anyone has posted this before.... the motor that tilts the passenger side mirror runs non stop whenever I put the car in reverse. It has probably been doing that for some time but with the nicer weather I opened the windows and could hear it right away. Close the windows and it's barely audible.�
Apr 25, 2015
mknox It shouldn't do that. It seems like it "thinks" the tilt point is beyond the range of the mirror's ability to tilt. I'd try re-setting it, or saving a higher position and see if that helps.�
Jun 21, 2015
pmoa I opened my fuse box in the frunk and had to reseat just about half of my fuses. Any ideas as to why?�
Jun 21, 2015
AudubonB Perhaps because of the typo?�
Jun 21, 2015
pmoa Haha! Bazinga! Damn auto correct.�
Jun 21, 2015
mknox
I had heard about the fuses not being fully seated back when I got my car in early 2013. Back then I found the same thing and had to push half or more of them fully into their sockets. I haven't checked it since. Maybe I'll take another look to see if they have worked their way loose.�
Jun 24, 2015
RAM_Eh So how do you know when you have a lemon?
I have had the following replaced.
drive unit
pano roof
mirrors
head lights
countless rattles and sounds
and now my AC does not work.
Car has been in the shop at least 12 times.
are the newer vin numbers any better? I am thinking 50K plus.�
Jun 24, 2015
mknox My list is way longer than that (early 2013 car) but I wouldn't characterize it as a "lemon". I'm an early adopter and fully expected that there would be issues. It was a brand new car, of a brand new design from a fairly new company. The saving grace is that Tesla has been great about dealing with issues and getting me fixed up.�
Jun 24, 2015
pmoa So far my VIN 8000 series has been okay, but I reported fraying cloth headliner, leak on the driver side rear ceiling and stained my headliner blue, loose fuses, and vibrating compressor that shakes the driver wheel and footwell area.�
Jun 24, 2015
RAM_Eh I'm sure there are a lot of owners with more problems and Tesla service has been outstanding, but there are lemon laws.
For the record I love my car, but my question remains.�
Jun 24, 2015
qwk Your list is tiny, and most items sound like cosmetic replacements. So, no not a lemon.�
Jun 24, 2015
shelbri Lemon laws typically protect when manufacturers can't fix a specific item after several attempts, not that several unrelated items need resolution. Having an issue that is then fixed is not a lemon, otherwise GM would be out of the game long ago.
FWIW, my vin 50406 has 22k miles and no visits to the service center except for installation of winter tires.�
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