teslamotorclub: Model S Insurance part 3

I got a quote of $640 for 6 months as a primary car and $440 as a secondary. For a non performance 60kw
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That's actually pretty good. How old are you and what company is it?
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Im 30, got the P85, my yearly is $1150 CAD with TD Meloche Monnex (Canadian insurance company). Strangely my Genesis Coupe which i had before was $1200, but with this vehicle i have a "Green Wheel" EV/Hybrid Discount so it works out good for me.

i have no accidents or tickets in the last 8 years BTW.
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I see some people listing liability limits of $100/300k. If you can afford a model S, my experience says you should be buying higher limits and an umbrella. Just sayin. Its good to see everyone giving companies and rates as shopping is the best way to get the best rate. However, stating annual premium is not really apples to apples.
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Bradleybang said: ?

I see some people listing liability limits of $100/300k. If you can afford a model S, my experience says you should be buying higher limits and an umbrella. Just sayin.
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Maybe they're like me and make less than 6 figures a year and probably shouldn't be affording a Model S

Though in my case I may have to up my levels if Tesla keeps doing well as I will have more money to protect...
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Auto-Owners Insurance. Suwanee, GA P85+ 6 Months $684.74 vs. 382.81 for 2007 Lexus LS 460L. Traded in the Lexus for 30,000. So 100K vs 30k assumption of risk for Auto-Owners. 500k liability plus 100k uninsured coverage, pleasure use 60 yr old
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Insurance

Wow! Just got the premium quote back from my insurance agent.
I am interested to know what insurance companies you chose and your annual premium.
Thank you in advance for your feedback.
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I'm in the Los Angeles area, Mercury quoted me $2150 per year. I dropped my 21 yr old son from my policy and it went down to $1600. Mercury will cover him on a separate policy (he's at college in San Diego).
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Anybody has a good source for GAP/Total Loss Insurance ?

I think most of us here either bought the MS cash or financed with a huge down payment. With the crazy price raises of the P I would now have to put a lot of additional money out of pocket if my car would be a toal loss (which can happen quickly with some uninsured motorist who screws you up.....).

Does anybody know any after market total loss / GAP insurance for Florida ? I only found one which pays the replacement costs up to 5000 k difference, we need at least 30k !!
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Progressive valued my MS60 at about 10k more then I paid for it, due to the limited availability of the vehicle, long wait time to get one once ordered. So if it were to be totaled, I would be fine, according to my understanding.
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This is a good question. There is an insurance company advertising they will pay for a replacement vehicle "one model year newer"... I want to say Liberty Mutual. Also, some states (like California) have a little known rule that requires Insurers to pay market value, not Blue Book. So checking into that may be helpful.
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I'm in Orange County, CA. Adding 2013 Tesla Model S to my existing Home Warranty to get the discount cost me $2300 per year. I went with GEICO. They gave me higher limits and I pay $1900 per year.

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Should have added that the $2300 quote was from State Farm.

aoliva said: ?

I'm in Orange County, CA. Adding 2013 Tesla Model S to my existing Home Warranty to get the discount cost me $2300 per year. I went with GEICO. They gave me higher limits and I pay $1900 per year.

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I'm curious to know if new owners looking for insurance has the 5 star crash test results helped with insurance premiums?
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Saphire said: ?

I'm curious to know if new owners looking for insurance has the 5 star crash test results helped with insurance premiums?
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+1 I'm also interested in recent experiences with insurance quotes. I suspect that actuarial tables for the Model S will need to be updated. Anyone know of any insurance companies who have lowered their rates as a result of the NHTSA ratings?
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For me insurance isn't about the 'cheapest', because when you do file a claim, you'll quickly find out you get what you pay for. With that said, I've had USAA for 20+ years, and maybe a few dollars more, but rest assured, I sleep very well at night knowing if something did happen, it would get taken care of ASAP.

Ran a quote through my online account once I had VIN, it's less that my 2013 Audi S5 (which is only a $60K car vs $113K for P85+).
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NoMoGas said: ?

This is a good question. There is an insurance company advertising they will pay for a replacement vehicle "one model year newer"... I want to say Liberty Mutual.
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Allstste has his kind of coverage. You can have it up until the car is 3yo. You have to pay for the coverage, but its not very expensive.
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After calling around several insurance companies they were more interested in your driving record and your credit score than 5 star crash test results. It pays to shop around, also discovered that insurance companies want multiple coverages. By combining renters insurance along with auto insurance my MS will be less expensive than a 2008 pickup truck, I'm going with Safeco Insurance.
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barbja said: ?

Allstste has his kind of coverage. You can have it up until the car is 3yo. You have to pay for the coverage, but its not very expensive.
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I have Safeco with the new replacement clause for 1 year right now. It was < $30/year. We'll see what they say next year.

Had to switch all our insurance from Mercury because their rate for the Model S was outrageous.
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Geico was the cheapest for me, cheaper than my 2013 Volvo T6 fully loaded. Liberty was the highest.
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I have Allstate in NJ and am paying around $1,000/yr for my P85 as my primary vehicle. I'll be curious to see where rates go, once data regarding repair costs start to come in. A valet dinged up my front bumper. Cost $13,500 to fix!
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NJ Rob said: ?

I have Allstate in NJ and am paying around $1,000/yr for my P85 as my primary vehicle. I'll be curious to see where rates go, once data regarding repair costs start to come in. A valet dinged up my front bumper. Cost $13,500 to fix!
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A ding for 13500. I'd find another repair shop. Post a pic of the 'ding'.
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I'll post the pic once I'm back home. Body shop was Karosserie, Tesla certified shop in Norristown, PA. The impact was concentrated on one specific point of the front bumper on the driver's side. This caused damage to a cooling component in addition to the bumper and various things behind the bumper.
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NJ Rob said: ?

I'll post the pic once I'm back home. Body shop was Karosserie, Tesla certified shop in Norristown, PA. The impact was concentrated on one specific point of the front bumper on the driver's side. This caused damage to a cooling component in addition to the bumper and various things behind the bumper.
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Well that's more than a minor ding with that other damage. The other thing, I'd ask your insurance who they recommend. I'd like to know what requirements Tesla has for 'certified shop'. Not sure that means a lot. They also recommended Mr Electric for my 14-50, $650 vs $200 from local master electrician. Just saying.
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NJ Rob said: ?

I have Allstate in NJ and am paying around $1,000/yr for my P85 as my primary vehicle. I'll be curious to see where rates go, once data regarding repair costs start to come in. A valet dinged up my front bumper. Cost $13,500 to fix!
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But that won't make your rates any higher. That will make the rates of the restaurant/gym/hotel go higher. The Tesla almost becomes irrelevant.
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I've read that State Farm is gouging Tesla owners. If that's the case we're gonna insure the Tesla at Geico or Progressive. If we are happy State Farm might just lose the rest of our business as well. I almost fear they are getting "too big to fail" and we know how that goes...
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bareyb said: ?

I've read that State Farm is gouging Tesla owners. If that's the case we're gonna insure the Tesla at Geico or Progressive. If we are happy State Farm might just lose the rest of our business as well. I almost fear they are getting "too big to fail" and we know how that goes...
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That was not my experience. State Farm gave me a quote that was within $75 of what I was quoted by Geico.
Went with State Farm so I could bundle it with the house insurance. Considering that my previous insurance company, MetLife, didn't even have the model S in their database, I was satisfied with the State Farm service.
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get_amped said: ?

That was not my experience. State Farm gave me a quote that was within $75 of what I was quoted by Geico.
Went with State Farm so I could bundle it with the house insurance. Considering that my previous insurance company, MetLife, didn't even have the model S in their database, I was satisfied with the State Farm service.
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Well that's good to hear. I hope it is for us too. Thanks for that.
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I live in Boston, MA my current BMW 5 series coverage thru safety is $2800, and recently spoke with the same Safety Insurance Company thru my agent"if the cost new of the Tesla is under $95,000.00, then it wouldbe $3,679.00. If the cost new is over$95,000 to $100,000.00 then it would be $3,802.00"....REALLY?

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State Farm Quote Increase Sept 2013

Our State Farm 6-month insurance premium for our Tesla Model S went from $726 in March 2013 (with two cars insured for $450 + $726 = $1176) to $1061 in September with only one car (the Tesla, the second car was sold in May).

The drivers did not change and there was no new data from DMV or others, the coverage did not change, the Tesla did not change. This seems to be a number game with their single car insurance discount that brings the total cost of the premium for two cars to roughly the same amount as for one car. It does not make sense from the customer point of view.

Would someone have any better option? We would also transfer our home coverage and umbrella coverage.

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GdeB said: ?

Our State Farm 6-month insurance premium for our Tesla Model S went from $726 in March 2013 (with two cars insured for $450 + $726 = $1176) to $1061 in September with only one car (the Tesla, the second car was sold in May).

The drivers did not change and there was no new data from DMV or others, the coverage did not change, the Tesla did not change. This seems to be a number game with their single car insurance discount that brings the total cost of the premium for two cars to roughly the same amount as for one car. It does not make sense from the customer point of view.

Would someone have any better option? We would also transfer our home coverage and umbrella coverage.
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Time to get another S--that way you'll get a discount :biggrin:
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texex91 said: ?

Time to get another S--that way you'll get a discount :biggrin:
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Or, switch insurance companies...
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gg_got_a_tesla said: ?

Or, switch insurance companies...
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Or both :wink:
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2013 model s 60 is the same as my loaded 2013 Volvo through Geico

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I'm in Dallas, TX and insured with Liberty Mutual and pay $817 per year. Awesome rate for $100 comprehensive and $500 collision deductible. I have two cars on my policy so I get a multi car discount. If it was insured alone the rate would have gone up almost $300 per year. I've called Geico and Progressive and they were significantly higher. esurance wouldn't insure a tesla. farmers and state farm and allstate were all higher than progressive and geico.
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Preparing for delivery: advice/experience with getting insurance?

I've searched through the forums a bit, but the posts RE insurance are a bit of a mixed bag.

So I thought I'd ask for up-to-date thoughts on the trials and tribulations of getting insurance.

I've been with Allstate forever but haven't yet inquired about what my rates will be. I suppose I can do the obvious and go to Geico or Progressive or others and just start shopping for quotes. But thought I'd check in to see what people's experiences have been...

Thanks!
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Argelius said: ?

I've searched through the forums a bit, but the posts RE insurance are a bit of a mixed bag.

So I thought I'd ask for up-to-date thoughts on the trials and tribulations of getting insurance.

I've been with Allstate forever but haven't yet inquired about what my rates will be. I suppose I can do the obvious and go to Geico or Progressive or others and just start shopping for quotes. But thought I'd check in to see what people's experiences have been...

Thanks!
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A lot of threads on this--but fair question.

However, it's really hard to gauge because insurance rates are all different based upon the driver (credit rating, driving record, multicar discount, longevity with insurance co, claims, etc). For me I have USAA and would never switch no matter the cost. My rate is coming out to the same as it was with a 2013 S5 Audi that I'm going to replace this one with.

Everyone will have different rates--so call yourself to get a real number.
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If you can get USAA, go for it. Not the cheapest but people always seem to be happy with them.
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I had to play hardball and switch everything home, both cars, etc. Insurance companies just don't value retention as much as new customers. I switched to Pemco which has the benefit of being local.

I had to juggle multiple offers and tell each one that I had talked with X, Y and Z and their rate was not good compared with Xs. Many had issues with VINs etc, but I prevailed. Though months later we are still dealing with confusion and fallout. Though my coverage didn't lapse for every one day (I overlap as a matter of course).
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I just switched to Geico and saved 15%!

I was paying $1400 a year for my Tesla and 2011 Honda Odyssey with State Farm, and only $1200 with Geico. $1000 deductible, 100/300 coverage.
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My yearly premium went up about $575 a year more from switching from a BMW 335i to the Model S P85.
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I had Kemper Direct (Unitrin, was Response Worldwide) for 2004 Chrysler Pacifica and 2005 VW Passat TDI Wagon for $1600 a year (in Florida). Switched to AARP Hartford and added my new Tesla S P85 for a three car policy for $1990 a year (with discount for paying for full year). Everyone else was quoting $2900 - $3400 per year for three vehicles. Very reasonable insurance rates for Tesla with one year term (not six months though it is an option) from AARP Hartford Auto Insurance.
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GdeB said: ?

Our State Farm 6-month insurance premium for our Tesla Model S went from $726 in March 2013 (with two cars insured for $450 + $726 = $1176) to $1061 in September with only one car (the Tesla, the second car was sold in May).
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fyi State Farm was THE HIGHEST QUOTE I had received when I was shopping around. I looked at about 12-15 insurance companies. I'm sure there are probably some that are even higher, but the quote I had received was beyond absurd (it was something like $2200/6mo just for 1 Tesla MS). I highly recommend avoiding them for Model S insurance.

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oh, and geico's quote was pretty absurd too. but that was more of a NJ things for them , Geico's response to me telling them there prices are insane was something like 'based on our statistics drivers in NJ have the highest accident rates in the country...." yadda yadda yadda so it was simply a statistics thing for them - has nothing to do with the car or your clean record or clean driving history.

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FYI I just renewed by policy with Progressive in NJ. I decided that 100/300/100 coverage wasn't enough (especially after the big P85 price increase last month). basically $100k is no longer enough to replace my car option for option. I decided to upgrade my policy to a $500k CSL blanket. This increased my rate a little bit but IMO it's not too much more. I also reduced the deductibles from $500/$750 for my other car (2013 Ford Flex) to $250 so that also increased it a tad bit. Last thing I added was $2100 coverage amount for aftermarket items (XPEL Ultimate and 3M Crystalline tint). If I didn't change this policy, and god forbid I got into an accident, to replace my P85 with a matching one today plus XPEL and tint would be very close to $120k which the old 100/300/100 policy isn't enough for - I'd be $20k short. Now I can sleep in peace.

So this new $500k blanket policy for liability and uninsured motorist + $250 deductible for comp & collision + $50 deductible for windshield coverage + $2100 coverage for my XPEL and 3M Tint costs me $588/6mo for the P85. I think that's a pretty decent deal, especially in NJ which is a "no fault" state and premiums are typically higher than most places in the country.

Old and new policy:

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I have AAA and just sold one of our cars (2004 CLK500) to make room for my new MS. They quoted me a annual rate increase of around $525. Seems about right considering the price of the car.
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I ended up going with Progressive,

Both my mum and myself on the policy, mum as 10%, myself as 90%, both Foreign Drivers License, I'm 25 years old, without a USA D/L, and It ended up being about $1580 for 6 months.

I got the 100/300/100, with $1000 deductibles with CDW.

Funnily enough, this is still cheaper than insurance in Australia that I had for me as a 25 year old, on my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT (6.4L).

So not a single fk was given
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I just switched providers. Progressive gave me a good quote for the Tesla and my Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, but I had to keep a third car on the policy until I sold it. When I went to drop that third car, suddenly Tesla + Evo is $300 more per half than that original quote. So I swapped to GEICO at a savings of about $450 a half. Originally I was willing to pay a little more for Progressive having been with them for awhile with good experiences, but nothing worth nearly $1k. There's no loyalty bonus discount in CA, so no real reason not to give someone else a shot.

Ended up with 500/500 + $500 deductible @ $1266 a half for the two of us (married and 32yrs old) and those two cars. Pretty decent, considering that Evo is extremely expensive to insure (more than the Tesla for a car currently worth 1/4 as much).
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30 year old male, haven't had insurance in 7 years as I've been riding around on a bicycle (boy, is this going to be an upgrade). Clean record, no infractions, accidents, etc.

Here are the quotes I received for zip code 94301... FWIW, these are 6 month rates with $100k/$300k:

AAA $699.00
Progressive $827.90
Geico $828.00
State Farm $868.00
Farmers $1,018.92
The Hartford $1,075.00
Amica $1,100.00
Nationwide $1,212.00
Ameriprise $1,558.90
Liberty Mutual $1,576.00
Allstate $2,232.00
Rates in general seem pretttyyy high. But I think that's due to my zip code, lack of insurance recently, and the overall cost of the car.

Anyone have any bad experiences with AAA or general positive feel on them?
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gnychis said: ?

30 year old male, haven't had insurance in 7 years as I've been riding around on a bicycle (boy, is this going to be an upgrade). Clean record, no infractions, accidents, etc.

Here are the quotes I received for zip code 94301... FWIW, these are 6 month rates with $100k/$300k:

Rates in general seem pretttyyy high. But I think that's due to my zip code, lack of insurance recently, and the overall cost of the car.

Anyone have any bad experiences with AAA or general positive feel on them?
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Your AAA rate is pretty good. I'm in a similar age group, and same area, but pay $750/6month for Progressive but 300k for everything coverage $1000 deductible. AAA is pretty good, they have an office in downtown 94301, so it's pretty convenient to do things.
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gnychis said: ?

Rates in general seem pretttyyy high. But I think that's due to my zip code, lack of insurance recently, and the overall cost of the car.
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Look pretty much in line with what I've seen. The Bay Area (CA in general?) is expensive for auto insurance. Mine nearly doubled after having moved from Chicago, all things equal. In Ohio before that we'd been paying $450 a half! All three locations with the same 2 cars.
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tdiggity said: ?

Your AAA rate is pretty good. I'm in a similar age group, and same area, but pay $750/6month for Progressive but 300k for everything coverage $1000 deductible. AAA is pretty good, they have an office in downtown 94301, so it's pretty convenient to do things.
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It's good to know that AAA has a nearby office, and it seems like they have quite a number of agents around the area too. Glad to see we're roughly on-par there!

Gizmotoy said: ?

Look pretty much in line with what I've seen. The Bay Area (CA in general?) is expensive for auto insurance. Mine nearly doubled after having moved from Chicago, all things equal. In Ohio before that we'd been paying $450 a half! All three locations with the same 2 cars.
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Yeah, it definitely seems like it's more expensive here :\ But to be honest... for how many accidents I see around the area (e.g., on 101), the rate increased is likely justified. Such a high number of cars, large freeways, high speed limit, and obviously expected careless drivers. I just came from PA, and I didn't have an equal car at the time... but it's definitely significantly higher than those in PA I know with cars of similar value.

Thanks for your responses! Glad to see the prices I'm seeing aren't entirely crazy.
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gnychis said: ?

30 year old male, haven't had insurance in 7 years as I've been riding around on a bicycle (boy, is this going to be an upgrade). Clean record, no infractions, accidents, etc.

Here are the quotes I received for zip code 94301... FWIW, these are 6 month rates with $100k/$300k:

AAA $699.00
Progressive $827.90
Geico $828.00
State Farm $868.00
Farmers $1,018.92
The Hartford $1,075.00
Amica $1,100.00
Nationwide $1,212.00
Ameriprise $1,558.90
Liberty Mutual $1,576.00
Allstate $2,232.00
Rates in general seem pretttyyy high. But I think that's due to my zip code, lack of insurance recently, and the overall cost of the car.

Anyone have any bad experiences with AAA or general positive feel on them?
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I've been with AAA in one form or another for over 30 years. When I got my S, I called USAA to see if they could beat the rate, and they could not. Their customer service is great, and historically any body work/repairs have been done by top flight body shops without a hassle.

YMMV.
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Trnsl8r said: ?

I had a different experience. My state farm agent quoted me in the mid 700's, less if not primary vehicle. That was for a non-performance 85kwh. Think you need to shop around...
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You better consider shopping around. I have had state farm for 20 years. They have never had to pay to repair my car. I was in a accident with my P85+ and state farm would not pay for seven thousand dollars of the repair. After delaying for two months they still refuse to pay for two thousand dollars of the repair. My Tesla has been in the shop for 3 months. A associate had his car in the same shop here in Portland OR and state farm litigated his repairs instead of paying. State farm is choosing to litigate instead of repairing the Model S. I consider stories of insurance corps paying for other vehicles other than the Model S of little value when discussing weather said insurance corp will pay for Model S repairs. I will be litigating with state farm and I happen to know the shop has repaired 75 Tesla's. For court I will find out how many have been state farm repairs and of those how many were settled in court. I am sure 25 were state farm and most were litigated. State farm refuses to pay and the insurance commission seems to cheer them on.

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bareyb said: ?

I've read that State Farm is gouging Tesla owners. If that's the case we're gonna insure the Tesla at Geico or Progressive. If we are happy State Farm might just lose the rest of our business as well. I almost fear they are getting "too big to fail" and we know how that goes...
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Yes, State farm is bad. They refused to pay for 7000 dollars of my repairs, after complaints to the Oregon insurance commission and two months delays they refuse to pay 2000 dollars. In hindsight I wish I would have paid the 7000 dollars and sued state farm for the 7000 as I will be sueing them anyway for the 2000 dollars. My car has been in the shop for 3 months now.
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gnychis said: ?

Here are the quotes I received for zip code 94301... FWIW, these are 6 month rates with $100k/$300k:

AAA $699.00
Progressive $827.90
Geico $828.00
State Farm $868.00
Farmers $1,018.92
The Hartford $1,075.00
Amica $1,100.00
Nationwide $1,212.00
Ameriprise $1,558.90
Liberty Mutual $1,576.00
Allstate $2,232.00
Rates in general seem pretttyyy high. But I think that's due to my zip code, lack of insurance recently, and the overall cost of the car.

Anyone have any bad experiences with AAA or general positive feel on them?
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I've been with AAA for years. I have found them exceptional on claims.

Here is my quote: $100/$500 deductibles and $746 for a year. This is for a P85D. I live in zip code 95066 (Nor Cal).
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anyone have any experience with hail damage? I know that would be covered under comp but it seems even minor hail damage could result in enormous actual repair costs. Is the aluminum more susceptible to hail?
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Was the Amerprise quote through Costco?

WarrenInCA said: ?

I've been with AAA for years. I have found them exceptional on claims.

Here is my quote: $100/$500 deductibles and $746 for a year. This is for a P85D. I live in zip code 95066 (Nor Cal).
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I don't get it. I went from Allstate in S. Cal. (about $850 for 6 months) to Ameriprise about $350. Full coverage with 250/500 liability. I have a very clean driving record so I guess circumstances vary
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themacs said: ?

I don't get it. I went from Allstate in S. Cal. (about $850 for 6 months) to Ameriprise about $350. Full coverage with 250/500 liability. I have a very clean driving record so I guess circumstances vary
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Just wondering how you were able to get Ameriprise to cover you when I spoke with an agent and look through their website and the agent said they don't cover Teslas, the website's lust of cars doesn't have the Tesla name on their manufacturer's list? I was hoping they would provide coverage.
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Sent you a PM with information.
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Insurance Costs

So, I'm looking for a used S85 black on black.

Found one in CA, and give the VIN to my insurance company. (fly out, drive home)

$1,000/6 months?! (All State)

I've had no accidents, no speeding tickets. I have a house, 3 other cars, boat, and 4 jet skis on the policy.

I've never had a claim with them.

What are you guys paying, and with who? This seems like a crazy lot of money just for this...

Thanks!

I thought the insurance on my 2012 Wrangler was a rip off... ugh. Can't win.
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Shop around. Based upon reports here on TMC over the past year, the price of insuring a Model S varies dramatically by location and company. We switched from Allstate to Geico when we replaced our Mini Cooper with a Model S and as a result, saw very little net increase in our policy.
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Thanks. I plan to. It's just a hassle since I JUST switched to All State... too many toys... some won't do PWCs.
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I'm with Allstate in NY area
950 per 6m. No increase from 2013 Audi S6 i replaced
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AndreyATC said: ?

I'm with Allstate in NY area
950 per 6m. No increase from 2013 Audi S6 i replaced
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Yours is also a P85+. I'm shopping for a S85, so I'd hoped it would have been less to insure... Hmm...
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Tesla Model S 60. Insurance increased $100 as I got a ticket last year after 7 years. Insurance was around 560 before. I have total of 3 cars with Geico.

GEICO
Vehicle total 6 month premium: $658.00
Comprehensive $75.40 Deductible: $250
Collision $376.80 Deductible: $500
Bodily Injury Liability: $100,000/$300,000
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SabrToothSqrl said: ?

Yours is also a P85+. I'm shopping for a S85, so I'd hoped it would have been less to insure... Hmm...
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It may not matter what version of S you have, but who knows
What's your zip?
PA is usually a lot cheaper than NY, but greatly depends on the area
Metro area is always more $$ than suburbs
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My zip is 17339. $560 for 6 months with Geico seems reasonable to me!
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$490 / 6mo with maxed out coverages and a $500 deductible. With Progressive for two years. Rate only went up $3 when I replaced my two year old P85 with a new P85D.
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Your location where the S will be garaged & operated, you age, your credit rating and driving record have a great deal to do with your quoted rate.
These factors account for large quotation variances and make for a lot of head scratching... e.g. why is that guy getting a really lower rate... (he probably is 60+, 800+ credit rating and lives in some very rural area where theft is nil and has had no moving violations in the last 10 years).
Also, deductibles and having agreed upon replacement value are also big factors as are the injury and liability $ values.
And I have been told that leasing vs owning may be a factor, there is data that leads insurers to feel that owners are much more careful with their autos than are those who lease.

AndreyATC is asking the right questions, IMHO.
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Well, I'm 32, married, with an excellent credit rating, and no violations.. live rural and it's kept in my garage at home, and even in a private garage at work... so... should be safe, right?
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SabrtoothSqrl:
You should be good.

I just ran numbers for The 2013 Prius and a 2015 P85D (Model S Performance) they actually did not have P85D as a choice).
It will run me $320 more per year than my current policy which has the Prius and a 2011 Volvo XC60 R Design.
With all things/limits and factors being the same 250/500 BI. 100K PD, 5K Med, 250/500 Uninsured Motorist, 1K Deductible, no road service I have AAA no rental for same reason.

So for 2 cars, 2 drivers, $1683 per year total. Not too Outrageous.
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I'll shop around when it becomes closer to reality this summer. I'm selling my Jeep and 2 of my jet skis... to help w/the cost of the Tesla... I don't want to... but I do want that Tesla.

Thanks guys for the feedback. I panicked when I thought maybe everyone was paying $175/month insurance... that's just too much...

What a fun process to switch insurance company for everything... especially if you have a mortgage...

If they were willing to deal, I'd stick around, but that's just too much.
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See if they can counter-offer
Maybe you won't have to change anything
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Im shopping, too as I just put an S85 on order. I have 1 moving violation and 1 speeding ticket in the past 3 years.

It's pretty clear which providers are familiar with Tesla and which aren't. I currently have State Farm and they quoted $800/6 mos. Costco Ameriprise quoted $2200/ 6 months - a freaking joke. AAA quoted Safeco at $1780/year and travelers at $2160/year. All with gap, all 250/500.

They also said, and it makes sense, that until they have the VIN the quote can be as much as $100 off.

Anyhow, good luck.
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<$100 / month seem's awesome.. I just asked my insurance place in town how much it would cost me to insure the S (15 yrs Exp, no violations) and they told me ~$211.00 CAD / Month. That's with maxed coverage.
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I'm paying $1200 per year for full coverage and high limits, but I registered it as a commercial vehicle. In MA insurance is a lot cheaper if the policy is under a company, with my record (few speeding tickets) different insurance companies were asking between $2800 and $4000 per year, something I wasn't willing to do. As soon as I put it under my company the rate dropped down to $1200 for full coverage and $500 deductible and higher limits (not sure what the numbers were).

The best part is my driving record don't matter and anyone can drive the car, not just the person on the policy. I don't know what the reason behind the huge difference between commercial and private insurance policy is in MA, but it works for me well. The other good part is that if I get into an accident and it's my fault (depending on accident severity) it won't go on my driving record, as it's a commercial vehicle.

Don't take my words for granted, speak to your insurance agent, I'm sure it varies a lot state by state. It matters where you garage the vehicle, ask them about that too.
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Insurance question

This is not the typical insurance question asked on here. My question is all my cars have 250/500 with state farm (4 cars now with the tesla). The tesla for me is going cost this per 6 month:

250/500: $516
500/500: $540
1mil/1mil: $572

What would you opt for and why. I am questioning this more with a higher priced lux car. Opinions appreciated.
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Fezzik said: ?

This is not the typical insurance question asked on here. My question is all my cars have 250/500 with state farm (4 cars now with the tesla). The tesla for me is going cost this per 6 month:

250/500: $516
500/500: $540
1mil/1mil: $572

What would you opt for and why. I am questioning this more with a higher priced lux car. Opinions appreciated.
Click to expand...

I am a State Farm Agent. What you are describing is the bodily injury liability part of your car insurance policy. This is what the insurance carrier will pay for injuries YOU cause ($250,000 per person, $500,000 per accident). So you ask the question, which one would you opt for. The answer is personal. If you feel you have $250,000 or under of assets and income to protect, go the $250/500 route. If you feel the need to protect 500k of assets and income, go the 500/500 route. If you have assets/income in the 1 mill range, go that route or seek an umbrella from your Agent. This particular coverage has nothing to do with the Tesla and everything to do with the injuries you cause. Hope that helps.
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Those are your liability limits. I would suggest you go with 250/500 and buy an umbrella which will extend over both your auto liability and homeowners personal liability policies.
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It's worth noting that the "same" insurer (AAA, for example) may have the car in their database in one state and be totally unable to write insurance for it in another state. :-( I really think the insurance thread should be per-state.
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Better get a policy that has replacement or you can get hosed. Liberty Mutual or such
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maddog1762 said: ?

Better get a policy that has replacement or you can get hosed. Liberty Mutual or such
Click to expand...

Liberty Mutual's policy language is "less than a year old, original owner, not leased, and less than 15,000 miles"... just an FYI. And it's a rider for an additional $50-75/year make sure you ask for it, or you don't have the coverage.
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Is that the same or different to "agreed value"?

I've been reading that Tesla requires this type of insurance (agreed value), because a minor bump can total the car and the insurance will cover a very low price for this insanely cheap-low-value car model that is worthless because it "total loss"'s so quickly (super rapid depreciation).

Blame Tesla's anti-salvage anti-competition repair racket or not, this still requires heavy duty terms on your coverage, and probably more $ to boot.
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bwa said: ?

... because a minor bump can total the car ...
Click to expand...

Which makes me wonder what going on with this P85, why is Geico putting it up for auction where it appears to only have minor damage.
2015 TESLA MODEL S, 14371096 | IAA-Insurance Auto Auctions

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spaceballs said: ?

Which makes me wonder what going on with this P85, why is Geico putting it up for auction where it appears to only have minor damage.
2015 TESLA MODEL S, 14371096 | IAA-Insurance Auto Auctions

Click to expand...

There's probably nothing wrong with it. But many insurance companies just declare a bump like this as a total loss because of the price gouging at the certified repair shops. It's probably only a $4-5k fix in reality but the certified chops tend to charge $40-50k instead thus the insurance companies treats it like a salvage.
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Literally 40+ thousand to fix?
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TwoBit said: ?

Literally 40+ thousand to fix?
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Yes I've seen repair bills for scratches that were $8k, repair bills for bumps like the above around $24-$30k, and there have been a few that were $48k that were NON-structural , so completely cosmetic that were $48k. It's sad but that's the truth. The repair shops seem to try to inflate the bill as high as possible and laugh all the way to the bank because they know the cars can't be repaired anywhere else.
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I switched from Geico to Liberty Mutual because they have Better car replacement pkg.

Yobigd20: I hope things change as more MS are being delivered. TM need to address this issue sooner or later.
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taurusking said: ?

I switched from Geico to Liberty Mutual because they have Better car replacement pkg.

Yobigd20: I hope things change as more MS are being delivered. TM need to address this issue sooner or later.
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I'm more worried about the repair costs for Model 3. Nobody is going to buy if a scratch is going to result in a total loss salvage vehicle.
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yobigd20 said: ?

I'm more worried about the repair costs for Model 3. Nobody is going to buy if a scratch is going to result in a total loss salvage vehicle.
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I thought Model # wasnt supposed to be aluminum
So it should cost average price to fix
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AndreyATC said: ?

So it should cost average price to fix
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Ha. Keep telling yourself that. The parts cost from tesla are still astronomical, they still won't sell parts to non certified shops, and the repair shops will charge whatever they want because they can. They know no one else can do the repairs as they aren't certified. It has nothing to do with aluminum vs steel.
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AndreyATC said: ?

I thought Model # wasnt supposed to be aluminum
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No one outside of Tesla knows what the Model 3 body panels are going to be made of. Could be aluminum, could be steel, could be carbon fiber-reinforced plastic, could be plastic like the Saturn, could be...

Of course there has been a great deal of speculation. But it is speculation, not fact.
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I'm with Geico in Northern CA. $495/6 mo. $300K/100K liability, $1000/1000 deductible. About twice what I pay for a VW Eos and more than 4x what I pay for a Tundra that seldom gets driven (no collision on that one). On the other hand the value of the Model S is 4X the VW and 8X the Tundra.
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yobigd20 said: ?

Ha. Keep telling yourself that. The parts cost from tesla are still astronomical, they still won't sell parts to non certified shops, and the repair shops will charge whatever they want because they can. They know no one else can do the repairs as they aren't certified. It has nothing to do with aluminum vs steel.
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Well TM needs to change ^^^^^

People will hesitate to buy Model 3 if the cost to fix the car is astronomical......esp given the fact that GM is coming with Bolt and the cost to fix Bolt might be cheaper ( assumption)
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Steelerfeever said: ?

Liberty Mutual's policy language is "less than a year old, original owner, not leased, and less than 15,000 miles"... just an FYI. And it's a rider for an additional $50-75/year make sure you ask for it, or you don't have the coverage.
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Wow. So over a year old, then its no good? Any other type of coverage after the year. I was thinking of calling them.
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Just got my renewal and SON OF A!!

Went from $763 to $975 with no changes or anything.

Liability went up $50, comprehensive went up $40, collision went up $110.

Looks like we're paying the price for all these repair costs....
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Steelerfeever said: ?

I am a State Farm Agent. What you are describing is the bodily injury liability part of your car insurance policy. This is what the insurance carrier will pay for injuries YOU cause ($250,000 per person, $500,000 per accident). So you ask the question, which one would you opt for. The answer is personal. If you feel you have $250,000 or under of assets and income to protect, go the $250/500 route. If you feel the need to protect 500k of assets and income, go the 500/500 route. If you have assets/income in the 1 mill range, go that route or seek an umbrella from your Agent. This particular coverage has nothing to do with the Tesla and everything to do with the injuries you cause. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Very Good Advice, and a great explanation as well. Thanks
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Fezzik said: ?

Wow. So over a year old, then its no good? Any other type of coverage after the year. I was thinking of calling them.
Click to expand...

Its one year newer model and 15000 less mileage, every year you own it. Got to have replacement as the car depreciates rapidily off the lot. If you total it in the first year you will be out tens of thousands of dollars. I think for this price range it is a must have! IMHO
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I carry 1k deductibles on my cars. It reduces the premium and I have no concerns about coming up with the funds to cover it should the need arise.

Much to my dismay, my bank is requiring that I reduce the deductible to $500 on my new P85D loan. I understand that they want to make sure that in the event of an accident that the collateral on the loan is protected. What I don't understand is why they would be concerned over my ability to cover $500 (the difference in the deductible) especially since they approved me for a 100% 130k loan. I think I've proven my credit worthiness.

Is there something here I'm missing? This is only the second bank that has asked me to prove that they are listed as the primary beneficiary to the insurance, and the only one that has insisted on a $500 deductible, and I've had 8-10 auto loans over the years.
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andrewket said: ?

I carry 1k deductibles on my cars. It reduces the premium and I have no concerns about coming up with the funds to cover it should the need arise.

Much to my dismay, my bank is requiring that I reduce the deductible to $500 on my new P85D loan. I understand that they want to make sure that in the event of an accident that the collateral on the loan is protected. What I don't understand is why they would be concerned over my ability to cover $500 (the difference in the deductible) especially since they approved me for a 100% 130k loan. I think I've proven my credit worthiness.

Is there something here I'm missing? This is only the second bank that has asked me to prove that they are listed as the primary beneficiary to the insurance, and the only one that has insisted on a $500 deductible, and I've had 8-10 auto loans over the years.
Click to expand...

Seems standard practice. My lender requires $500 or better too.
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Just FYI, I got a quote from MetroMile (pay per mile insurance) $250k/$500k with $1k deductible is $33.88/month + $0.057/mile. I believe they only offer coverage in a handful of states.
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spaceballs said: ?

Which makes me wonder what going on with this P85, why is Geico putting it up for auction where it appears to only have minor damage.
2015 TESLA MODEL S, 14371096 | IAA-Insurance Auto Auctions

Click to expand...

yobigd20 said: ?

There's probably nothing wrong with it. But many insurance companies just declare a bump like this as a total loss because of the price gouging at the certified repair shops. It's probably only a $4-5k fix in reality but the certified chops tend to charge $40-50k instead thus the insurance companies treats it like a salvage.
Click to expand...

Bump? Minor Damage? Are you guys blind? The left rear wheel appears to be about 5 inches in from the outside of the car from where it should be. I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't major drive unit damage to this car.

Side note, funny to see that they typoed the VIN so it's showing as a 2015 when the door sticker clearly shows this as a March 2014 vehicle.
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andrewket said: ?

I carry 1k deductibles on my cars. It reduces the premium and I have no concerns about coming up with the funds to cover it should the need arise.

Much to my dismay, my bank is requiring that I reduce the deductible to $500 on my new P85D loan. I understand that they want to make sure that in the event of an accident that the collateral on the loan is protected. What I don't understand is why they would be concerned over my ability to cover $500 (the difference in the deductible) especially since they approved me for a 100% 130k loan. I think I've proven my credit worthiness.

Is there something here I'm missing? This is only the second bank that has asked me to prove that they are listed as the primary beneficiary to the insurance, and the only one that has insisted on a $500 deductible, and I've had 8-10 auto loans over the years.
Click to expand...

Same for both my cars, each time. Two different credit unions, too, so I'm guessing standard practice.
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Everyone's situation is different, but I'll just throw out that I asked USAA yesterday about changing collision deductibles on our 4 cars (avg of 9 years old, 2 "mature" and 2 <25 drivers) from $250 to $1000. Only $228/yr. savings offered.
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CHGolferJim said: ?

Everyone's situation is different, but I'll just throw out that I asked USAA yesterday about changing collision deductibles on our 4 cars (avg of 9 years old, 2 "mature" and 2 <25 drivers) from $250 to $1000. Only $228/yr. savings offered.
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Exactly, I see your point. A no-brainer for me, with no insurance claim in 30 years. You would be betting against having a claim in the next 3.3 years -- somewhat less likely. $228 saved for me. $228 well invested for you!
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Interesting comment from an article about Edmunds taking the new aluminum F-150 to get repaired at the dealer after intentionally putting dents into it.

Interestingly, the dealer was willing to offer a significant discount when they found out they were being paid "out of pocket" rather than by an insurance company.The amended, final price reflecting that was $2,938.
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Heres How Much It Costs To Fix Dents On The Aluminum 2015 Ford F-150
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Hit a deer this past January. We were paying $88/month and starting in May it goes up to $133/month. We did change deductible to $500 but that itself only added $8/month. $12,000 in damages. Not happy about it but all other places want at least $300/month for the same policy. We're with State Farm btw
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I am with Amica too, I had asked for a qoute on a 2014 P85+ and they said my premium wouldnt change. Ended up getting 2015 85D and my premium went up $450..
We live in Florida which is one the highest states for auto insurance.
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Anyone able to get a quote for the 70D yet?
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Tampaukfan said: ?

I am with Amica too, I had asked for a qoute on a 2014 P85+ and they said my premium wouldnt change. Ended up getting 2015 85D and my premium went up $450..
We live in Florida which is one the highest states for auto insurance.
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Michigan is THE highest. I'm also with Amica and I'm paying just over $4100/yr with similar coverage/deductibles as most others I've seen. Half the premium is on the Michigan Broadened Collision coverage, which is essentially the big important part of the insurance. I'm 28 and never had any accidents or tickets. I haven't seen any other owners with a premium anywhere near as high as mine, though they've all been in other states.

Of the six companies that gave me quotes (another four apparently didn't insure Tesla), only Geico gave me a cheaper quote at about $1500/6mo, but it sounds like they deny a lot of claims and I don't want to risk that nightmare with such an expensive car. Farmers was by far the worst at $7800/6mo for my preferred coverage, or $13,500/6mo for their "Basic" coverage. Even with Michigan being the worst and the car so expensive to repair, I have no idea why I've been thrown such ridiculous quotes, as though I'm missing something. Am I supposed to haggle or something?

I'm coming up on renewal and will be going through another round of shopping.
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Some of these prices scare me--I'm hoping the Model 3 doesn't run into such issues. Are high-end cars usually so expensive to insure, or is the Model S significantly higher than many others?

Right now I pay $40 for my current gasser, and adding my upcoming ED to the mix will cost $47 before changing/lowering coverage on my gasser. Fairly low deductibles, too, but in one of the lowest states to insure in.
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How can the variance be so high between Ohio and Michigan? Or is it the area of Detroit?
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CHGolferJim said: ?

How can the variance be so high between Ohio and Michigan? Or is it the area of Detroit?
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Car insurance rates by state

No idea behind the reasoning, but according to this estimate it's a literal jump from worst state, to second best state.
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eloder said: ?

Some of these prices scare me--I'm hoping the Model 3 doesn't run into such issues.
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if tesla charges the same labor and parts rate at the certified shops for the Model 3 as they do for the model S, the insurance will be just as high if not higher due to the even higher rate of 'totaled vehicles' aka $20k repairs bills for a $30k car = totaled.
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eloder said: ?

Car insurance rates by state

No idea behind the reasoning, but according to this estimate it's a literal jump from worst state, to second best state.
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Sweet, NC is 44th lowest :love:
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0Q991 said: ?

Anyone able to get a quote for the 70D yet?
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I called a few places. AAA Wanted $3600 a year! I have been with them 30+ years, no claims. This would be a 200% increase over my current insurance on my Audi.

Geico wanted $1900

USAA wanted $900. Have yet to confirm with them but plan to soon
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lg_golfs said: ?

I called a few places. AAA Wanted $3600 a year! I have been with them 30+ years, no claims. This would be a 200% increase over my current insurance on my Audi.

Geico wanted $1900

USAA wanted $900. Have yet to confirm with them but plan to soon
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With my 70D en route to replace an Audi A6 TDI (anyone want a sweet deal on a nice diesel??) and being a USAA member, I am keenly interested in what they offer you. Please keep us updated!
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When I asked for a quote from Sate Farm (I've been with them for 30 years), a month before delivery, they quoted me about $1400/yr. When I actually insured the car, earlier this month, it was a bit under $1000/yr! I don't know if they dropped their price or neglected to include the various discounts, such as safe driver, multicar and multiline. My record is clean, with a 2nd car, homeowner's, and an umbrella liability policy with them.
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I just insured my new 85D with USAA.

Texas, clean driving record, high credit score, mid-40's. 100K/300K/100K policy, 100K UI/UIM, 1K collision and comprehensive deductibles. $1460/year. For my 2008 Audi A6, this same policy was about $950/year. The increase is almost all in the collision and comprehensive coverage due to the high cost to repair the vehicle should it be in an accident.
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Ride Long said: ?

With my 70D en route to replace an Audi A6 TDI (anyone want a sweet deal on a nice diesel??) and being a USAA member, I am keenly interested in what they offer you. Please keep us updated!
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Will do! I just got my VIN Tuesday so that should help the cause. Mr. USAA (My dad) has been in the hospital and the last thing I want to do is pester my mom while he is there. Trying to be a good daughter. Trying!
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Ride Long said: ?

With my 70D en route to replace an Audi A6 TDI (anyone want a sweet deal on a nice diesel??) and being a USAA member, I am keenly interested in what they offer you. Please keep us updated!
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I regularly ask USAA about hypothetical scenarios, so you could find out
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SomeJoe7777 said: ?

I just insured my new 85D with USAA.

Texas, clean driving record, high credit score, mid-40's. 100K/300K/100K policy, 100K UI/UIM, 1K collision and comprehensive deductibles. $1460/year. For my 2008 Audi A6, this same policy was about $950/year. The increase is almost all in the collision and comprehensive coverage due to the high cost to repair the vehicle should it be in an accident.
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Same as what I got for myself with Safeco with OEM parts endorsement and new car vehicle replacement. I would check to see if USAA offers those endorsements.
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teslamotorclub

Thứ Sáu, 2 tháng 12, 2016

Model S Insurance part 3

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AAA	$699.00
Progressive	$827.90
Geico	$828.00
State Farm	$868.00
Farmers	$1,018.92
The Hartford	$1,075.00
Amica	$1,100.00
Nationwide	$1,212.00
Ameriprise	$1,558.90
Liberty Mutual	$1,576.00
Allstate	$2,232.00