Aug 6, 2013
pete8314 Following up on this, my buttons decided to be bright white last night. Not the best photo, but they are very bright (which I like):
�
Aug 6, 2013
ckessel Do you adjust the screen brightness? I think all the ambient lighting adjusts with it.�
Aug 6, 2013
pete8314 No, never touch it. Sometimes they're super-bright, but mostly you can barely see the backlighting.�
Aug 6, 2013
NOLA_Mike What I have found is that when they are dim (or sometimes not lit at all) if I adjust the screen brightness up or down they immediately come back to life.
Seems like a bug to me.�
Aug 6, 2013
brianman Any correlation to Day/Night mode of the Display?�
Aug 6, 2013
jomo25 I thought recalls were exclusively for safety issues. I didn't think the groan was presenting any danger. Service bulletin, perhaps, if even that.�
Aug 6, 2013
J in MN Haven't tried to replicate it yet, but my experience is that if the car starts in day mode, and later auto switches to night mode, the buttons are bright. In other cases they are dim.�
Aug 7, 2013
pete8314 Hmmm, opposite experience for me, last night the car started (and stayed) in night mode, and the buttons were bright. This morning, started in night mode until I rolled out of the garage, and buttons were dim the whole time.�
Aug 8, 2013
mlbailey Just took some friends out in my P85+ today, and when I stomped on the accelerator, felt a "thud" at the rear of the car and a loss of acceleration, then had an error message pop up telling me to safely pull over to the side of the road and reboot the car. As I was coasting to the side of the road, I tried pressing the accelerator but nothing happened, except for a glitchy dotted yellow line moving through the power meter section of the speedometer. After restarting the car, it seemed to operate normally and could accelerate quickly once again.
Anyone else experience this?�
Aug 8, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla @mlbailey, similar to this?
Car delivered yesterday, died 10 times today, stranding my family.
Resolved thus: Car delivered yesterday, died 10 times today, stranding my family. - Page 7�
Aug 8, 2013
NigelM Mod Note: some posts went here - chimpanzee-s-big-project�
Aug 9, 2013
brianman I'll try to remember to stomp the accelerator a bunch of times tomorrow and this weekend to make sure mine doesn't have this problem.
�
Aug 9, 2013
JRP3 The "thud" is probably the drive train unloading from loss of power under load.�
Aug 9, 2013
ckessel Had my car in for creaking pano roof noises. Apparently _that_ day they'd gotten an updated TSB saying that if you bring it in for any pano roof issue they proactively fix all the possible known pano issues rather than just the one you brought it in for.
My car is nice and quiet again thankfully.
Edit: oh, and be nice to the service folks, the ones in Portland are still doing 60-70 hour weeks. And then quite a bit more on the end of Q2 push to get cars delivered. They're hiring, but staffing up is always slow. The Portland service center has 6 (maybe 7?) people now and had just 1 in January (and only part-time as he was in the process of relocating from the Seattle service center).�
Aug 9, 2013
Jeeps17 ckessel,
I just had my car in for the creaking pano roof as well... what day did you refer to for that new TSB?
I also had the ventilation retrofit performed, but unfortunately now have an annoying creak from the passenger A pillar region :crying:�
Aug 9, 2013
ckessel I'm not entirely positive. They were working on the car on Wednesday and when I went to pick it up it was still going to be over an hour since the TSB had them doing more work than was expected. So I'd guess the TSB came in Tuesday or Wednesday.
On the bright side, I got a Roadster loaner. Fun car in sort of a souped up go cart way, but noisy, rattle filled, and not very comfortable. It was a blast to have for a day, but I like my S much better.�
Aug 9, 2013
Rlsarch Had the same thing happen to me and a couple of weeks later SC called and said they saw the error and ordered the part, picked up the car and replaced it in a day. They said it was the inverter that needed to be replaced. converts DC to AC. Call your SC.�
Aug 9, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla I had a similar problem. See the resolution here:
Cricking from passenger side A pillar�
Aug 9, 2013
mknox How do you re-boot the car? I know how to re-boot the 17" screen and dash screen, but I thought that the car's drive system was completely isolated from these screens. (I've re-booted my 17" screen while underway with no ill effects as far as drivetrain performance goes).�
Aug 9, 2013
Rlsarch Manually power down the car from the controls menu, then step on the brake to turn it back on. Reboot the car.�
Aug 9, 2013
jomo25 I think its more involved than that. What you describe is no different than parking, getting out, and then going back in. It isnt a reboot. If they are truly rebooting the entire car, I think it requires pulling fuses. Though in the case as described above, they may have just meant a console reboot, which is pretty close to a full reboot.�
Aug 9, 2013
Rlsarch @jomo25 it was exactly that. The thread is discussing an issue that both myself and mlbailey experienced, where on acceleration power drop off and a warning appeared on the screen to do what I described and the warning called it a reboot. Just reporting the facts.�
Aug 16, 2013
sueinsanjose We had the low tire pressure warning a few days ago, thankfully right as we turned onto the street where we live. We pulled into the driveway to see if we could tell where the issue was and immediately noticed one tire was low. Upon further inspection, we realized the tire was worn significantly on the inside of it, and that both rear tires were completely worn on the inside of the tire and apparently not properly alignned. The left rear tire had a leak and would not hold air. Because the wear on the tires was significant and one was flat, we could not drive the car so Tesla came to pick it up the next day. Coincidentally, we were scheduled for service a few days later for issues with the charger (it was defective when it was built we just found out).
It would apprear that the tires were not properly mounted from the time the car was built. We have about 11,000 miles on the car and received it in October 2012.
No word yet from the service center as to what happens or the status of the repairs. In the meantime, we have a Roadster loaner, which is not a bad thing. What a difference between the Roadster and the S though. The Roadster is a sexy car for sure, but a bumpier ride and no power steering! We are having fun with it, but also looking forward to the return of the S!�
Aug 16, 2013
Banahogg Which service center had the loaner for you? I got a Nissan Altima from Menlo Park earlier in the week, which was less interesting to compare and contrast with the Model S
To keep this post topical, I was in for a failed door handle and a few minor cosmetic issues (half of which they got to).�
Aug 16, 2013
sueinsanjose Ours is there too. We had to raise a stink with them when we found out about the issue with the charger because we had been having issues with it since day one only to find out it was built without a second charger. So we requested the Roadster and they were able to come through even though we ended up bringing the car in before our appt once we had the tire issues.�
Aug 16, 2013
Colasec I took my S60 in for an alignment this week and mentioned that the AM/FM radio reception was quite poor. Although my service advisor warned me that the poor performance was probably "normal", she said she'd have the tech take a look.
It turns out that my "booster antenna" was damaged. They ordered a part from Fremont; it was delivered two days later and installed that day. Got to have some fun with a P85 in the meantime and now my AM/FM radio reception is great. Both the alignment and the antenna fix were covered under warranty.�
Aug 16, 2013
TommyBoy You've only had your car for a few weeks, right? It already needed an alignment? That's a little disconcerting.�
Aug 17, 2013
jerry33 It's actually fairly normal for all cars. Alignment is easily messed up during transport because the tires and suspension are subject to stresses they are not designed to take. Two of the last three cars I've purchased required alignment after delivery (unfortunately, dealer prep doesn't include alignment--only an "is the steering wheel straight" check).�
Aug 17, 2013
JRP3 That doesn't make sense to me. First, I've never encountered an allignment issue on a new vehicle, and second, I don't see how a car on a transporter is subject to any unusual forces, in fact I'd think the opposite, since it's riding on the truck suspension as well, another buffer between the car and the road.�
Aug 17, 2013
efusco It's common, in most cars most people won't notice subtle alignment issues. With Prius it was quite evident bc people were not getting expected MPG and when we had them check were frequently out of alignment.�
Aug 17, 2013
AmpedRealtor +1
My Prius required an immediate alignment after I picked up the vehicle at the dealership. Priuses were notorious for needing alignments after delivery due to the shipping process. I'm not sure what causes the alignment issues during shipping, but apparently it was a rather well known issue in 2007 when I bought mine.�
Aug 17, 2013
efusco The Prius was notorious, but I believe it was because the MPG differences were so noticable. A 10% belown EPA MPG on a 20MPG vehicle is hardly noticable. A 10% MPG difference on a Prius is quite noticable, and people complained and thus the issue was found. Ignorance is bliss, but it doesn't mean the problem isn't present equally on other vehicles.�
Aug 17, 2013
drees I think it's more of an issue with production tolerances. The factory basically makes a best effort to get the alignment within range during assembly, but they never actually put the car on a rack to confirm alignment settings after the car is fully built - it takes too long. The vast majority of the time this is OK, but some cars obviously get through out-of-spec.
You would think that they could simply scan the car while it's rolling down some part of the line to confirm alignment and tag cars for re-alignment automatically if they get through out of spec, though.�
Aug 17, 2013
JRP3 I think Drees has the more likely explanation, sloppy production tolerances. It could also be that the setup at the factory on a brand new and possibly stiffer suspension may be a bit off after the suspension is cycled a bit and loosens up, either after transport or driving.�
Aug 17, 2013
Suzieq While washing my Model S at the local "touchless" self-service car wash, a piece of plastic on the roof departed the car. I was using the high pressure wand to soap the car, and the plastic cover for the roof rack attach point flipped up and broke off. It appears that the two plastic arms on the cover are not very robust and when the cover flipped open, they immediately broke and the piece detached. Anyone else seen this, and how did you handle it?
I have attached a few pictures: the broken part, the place where the part came from, and the rear cover, still attached but flipped to the up position.
�
Aug 17, 2013
lov2krz I've found service to be pretty good about these things. When you take the car in just add it to the SO and they should fix it for you. I would recommend not mentioning the power washer since the owners manual states the car should be hand washed. It broke of sometime while I was driving, is what I'd say.�
Aug 17, 2013
jerry33 Ouch. when that piece of plastic breaks, the entire piece that it is attached to has to be replaced.
There is a market for a screw in replacement if some enterprising soul were to market it.�
Aug 17, 2013
Suzieq That's what I was afraid of. I could not tell how it was attached, but the part itself could not cost much. It is just a small piece of molded plastic.
Do you have some experience with this you can share? Is it user replaceable?�
Aug 17, 2013
SteveH No personal experience, but the guy at the Dallas service center warned me about this. Definitely not user replaceable. He said to be careful when washing/drying the car because if these pieces come off then the fix is a pain. The whole plastic piece does have to be replaced, but it runs the length of the roof and is glued down. They have to rip the whole piece off, sand it down, and glue and screw it back in. Takes a while he said and a big job. Sorry.�
Aug 18, 2013
lolachampcar WRT rear alignment, Huibert Mees indicated the rear sub-frame is built on a jig which allows for checking the stuff that can not be changed and setting toe before the sub-assembly gets near the car.�
Aug 18, 2013
jerry33 Same as SteveH, No experience but the service folks warned me about it. As those little doors look very fragile, I've been taking extra care around them--at least until someone comes up with an aftermarket replacement. What I'm envisioning is something that screws into the socket and then has a press-and-click feature so that the plastic is flush with the car.�
Aug 18, 2013
NigelM Teensy bit awkward after Suzie posted the story, pictures, location and VIN here?�
Aug 18, 2013
Suzieq Wow, really? Not exactly what I would call "intelligent design."�
Aug 18, 2013
Suzieq no worries. I have learned not to use the high pressure setting on the self service car wash but I certainly don't feel like I was neglectful or abusive.
I'm pretty sure Tesla service will deal with this issue fairly as they have with most other customer issues reported here.
If you look closely at the part and the related structure the shortcomings are obvious.�
Aug 18, 2013
EarlyAdopter If one of those plastic roof rack covers break, just tape it back in place with some 3M VHB double stick tape. Same stuff that's used to fix the molding, emblems, lettering, and trim pieces like the Model S carbon fiber spoiler to cars.
Local auto parts stores usually stock it. Make sure you get the gray tape with red backing, that's the VHB (very high bond). It's semi-permanent which means it won't come off when you don't want it to, but will when you do (like if you should ever decide to get a roof rack)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/3M-1-2-in-x-5-ft-Scotch-Mount-molding-tape/_/N-25ej?itemIdentifier=517034_0_0_�
Aug 18, 2013
nspollution Take it in and they'll fix it for you. This happened to the Tesla service center here while they were washing my car.
Evidently, these roof rack things are pretty flimsy.�
Aug 18, 2013
Suzieq superglue to the rescue! All better.�
Aug 19, 2013
neroden It is excessively loud. It certainly shouldn't be making any noise when the car is turned off.
I have been told that they haven't tracked down exactly WHY it is making noise when the car is turned off. I have been told that it is a defect present in all cars, so I am willing to wait until they figure out what the design defect is before getting my *warranty repair*.
If, however, there are cars where this does not occur, then I need to know that.
�
Aug 19, 2013
strider I can answer this as my wife experienced the loss of (drive) power, red PRND and Please restart car message last night. Ended up having it towed to the SC with inverter faults. But the person on the phone walked me through how to reboot the car. Open the frunk and remove the middle plastic cover (the one below the windshield). You will see 2 fuse boxes. Open the left one (your left as you're looking to the rear of the car). You will see 2 yellow 20A fuses - 1 to the right (in the middle I believe) and the other 1 row to the left from the first. They are the only 2 yellow 20A fuses in the box. Remove both of these fuses, wait 30 seconds, re-insert them. Car will now boot up.
Thought you might also appreciate this - was poking around waiting for the tow truck:
�
Aug 19, 2013
qwk How in the world did you get the wrong firmware on the car? Is that why the car threw the faults?�
Aug 19, 2013
mknox Thanks, strider. I think I'll keep these instructions in the glove box "just in case".�
Aug 19, 2013
strider I'm assuming it is simply a display error like having the wrong wheels or color. It's been correct in the past as I've verified firmware versions after updates but clearly something is/was flagged wrong somewhere. The battery graphic looked correct (showing less than half battery at 131 ideal miles) so it knew it wasn't a 40kWh battery. But clearly the car had tossed its cookies�
Aug 21, 2013
sueinsanjose Got my S back today. We were able to get all issues resolved with no out of pocket cost.
We were told that the tires need to be rotated every 3,000 miles and replaced about every 7,000. Too bad we did not know that!
The Roadster was a lot of fun, but could not imagine driving one every day. I think we are spoiled by the S - such a smooth ride and a luxurious car. The Roadster would be fun for weekend drives down the coast, but not to drive all the time. It is quite difficult to get in and out of.�
Aug 21, 2013
mknox Huh? Is that stated somewhere in the manuals? I've never rotated tires that frequently (usually once a year / 15,000 miles). My Model S has just over 10,000 miles now, and I've not touched the wheels. I guess I've missed over 3 required rotations.�
Aug 21, 2013
Todd Burch She's referring to the Roadster.
Although that interval could go way up with less sticky tires and gentler driving...�
Aug 21, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla No, Todd, Susie appears to be referring to her Model S tires one of which was apparently really worn out.
I was told by the Fremont service center folks that the (first and free) tire rotation that I got for my 19" wheels at 7,500 miles or so was just at the right time.�
Aug 21, 2013
Todd Burch My bad!�
Aug 22, 2013
JRP3 That can't be right. 3K rotation and new tires every 7K? :scared:�
Aug 22, 2013
texex91 x2 - Seriously impossible to have to replace tires after 7500 :cursing:�
Aug 22, 2013
AmpedRealtor If the tire life is so severely restricted, wouldn't it be appropriate for Tesla to disclose or mention this somewhere?�
Aug 22, 2013
strider There's a whole thread for this somewhere but I think the key is to keep the tires rotated due to the negative camber in the rear. My Dad always taught me that when you get new tires to rotate them after the first 2,500 or so miles and then every 5,000 miles after that. I rotated our MS tires at 3,000 and then again at 8,000. We're at 11,000 now and so far so good. While it's a P85 and my wife likes using all that power I'm expecting to get 15-20k miles out of them. Remember that these are max performance summer tires and while the high degree of negative rear camber hurts tire life they're not going to last 40k miles on any vehicle.�
Aug 22, 2013
J-Philipp Found in the Model S Owner's Manual, Europe, 1.0_11 :
�
Aug 22, 2013
efusco This might fit better under the title 'Tesla Non-Issues', but maybe it fits better here. Over the past 3-4 months I'd noticed that after not being driven for several hours that the brake pedal would stop very high up upon first entering the vehicle, then slowly sink down to the normal stopping position. It doesn't do that every time, but only after 4-5 hours of sitting undriven. I'd asked our service techs about it and they wanted to check it out. The car went in for it's annual service a few weeks ago, but they weren't able to reproduce it. So they wanted to bring it back up, which they did yesterday. The looked at it and determined that it's normal and all cars do it. I don't remember it doing this initially, and I didn't remember the Performance loaner doing it. But the service tech says he checked several other vehicles and they all do it. Just the brake system reestablishing pressure in the system.�
Aug 22, 2013
Banahogg I have seen that as well. For me, it started exactly when I got 4.4�
Aug 22, 2013
Todd Burch This is normal and did not start with a specific software version. I believe you're noticing the brake booster coming online, helping to provide additional braking power to the master cylinder. It comes online as the car starts up, making an initially "stiff" bake pedal feel more mushy as you get more assistance from the booster.
At least that's what I think it is. Anyway, I've noticed it since I got my car in December (v4.0), and on other cars as well.�
Aug 23, 2013
texex91 Get the tire rotation, but where does it say you'll need to replace tires every 7K miles!
Is this 'tire wear' only on 21" wheels?
This could get costly!�
Aug 23, 2013
dnanian I had this happen to me as well, and I watched the two-second replacement procedure. Nothing needed to be removed, save for the bits still snapped onto the axle inside.�
Aug 23, 2013
J-Philipp I believe that they just can't give owners such an information, as tire wear essentially depends on vehicle use : Payload/Driver's behavior/roads condition etc. Do some manufacturers other than Tesla include this information in their manual ?
Of course we have to expect tires to be worn out very rapidly on the Model S, cause it's an heavy car, and it's so powerful, and this power is so addictive.
I even believe that some of us nearly have to change tires on a daily basis !
�
Aug 27, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla My J1772 adapter gave up the ghost yesterday while plugged in at work from a ClipperCreek 30A station. It was all fine for an hour or so while charging at the expected rate and then, when I checked the mobile app, I found that the charging had stopped and that the car was reporting "No Wall Power". Gave it a shot again this morning from a different charger in the same cluster at work but to no avail.
Drove up to the Burlingame store/service center and picked up a replacement; all good since then. A side note: this newer adapter has a smoother, "matte" finish when compared to the glossy finish my original one from January had.�
Aug 28, 2013
mknox Any idea what the cause of the failure was? Is there an internal fuse of some sort? The reason I ask is that just about all of the public chargers I use are the high power (90 amp) units, and I now wonder if the higher than average current is going to "stress" my adapter.�
Aug 28, 2013
Musterion Interesting because the J1772 evolution threads all say the old version with problems was matte and the new improved version is glossy.�
Aug 28, 2013
Sparrow I just got my original J1772 adapter replaced yesterday. It was the original matte finish one that came with my Signature car. I expected to get the glossy version as I had just compared adapters with another owner on Saturday. The newest version is indeed a matte finish too, but a bit smoother than the original matte adapter I had.�
Aug 28, 2013
Musterion Version 3? Could you compare with the pictures posted in this very useful thread: Hardware changes (see first post by @brianman showing versions 1 and 2) and then add your photo if indeed different? You can compare part numbers.�
Aug 28, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla They didn't attempt to diagnose the problem with the broken adapter; the advisor simply swapped it out.
Here's the new one:
�
Aug 30, 2013
scottshipman I've had a few issues that I am not 100% have been fixed completely. Service has been terrific and the car is amazing.
1. loud wind noise from sun-roof. with headwind - typically at 60MPH, no headwind or crosswind - 70MPH. This is a known problem for some cars. the seal does not set correctly.
2. car swerves upon acceleration. Cause is a loose bushing in rear suspension, with wear can rub ankle. Replace and tighten.
3. screen toggle from day to night - will switch in low light (say in the shade of a tree) and will not toggle back unless in direct sunlight. Unreported to Tesla yet.�
Aug 30, 2013
Thumper Not a mechanical problem but a potential useful mechanical advance for the future. ZF has a product to capture suspension movement and put it in the battery. ZF announces new GenShock energy-recovery suspension - Autoblog�
Aug 30, 2013
JRP3 Minimal energy to be recovered, unless you are off roading.�
Sep 1, 2013
scaesare Charge Port Door Latch Adhesive Failure
Noticed my charge port door was open today when parked in a lot for 5 hours on a moderately hot (low-90's) day... some portion of that time in direct sunlight. Thought maybe I accidentally opened it when I remotely enabled the HVAC to cool that car.
Closed it.
By the time I loaded the frunk and walked back to the drivers-side door, it was open again. I realized that the port had not unlatched, but rather the adhesive that retains the small cylindrical metal latch-disk in the back of the door itself had failed, and the door opened, leaving the latch-disk still magnetically latched to the port body.
I pressed it back from some force and held it for a bit, and it held for the 20 minute drive home, but I don't expect that to last.
I'd just epoxy it myself if I didn't have to call the SC as I need to have them look at my fraying headliner again as well... it's getting worse.�
Sep 2, 2013
beeblezap I picked up my 85KWh MS at the Fremont Factory about a couple of weeks ago so it's running the new v5.0 firmware; Overall the car is fantastic and makes running errands fun! There are a couple of minor issues I've run across though:
1) trunk - all of a sudden, my trunk refuses to auto-open/close. I hear the unlocking click and I have to now manually lift the trunk up and also need to manually close it. Clicking on the height setting button of the trunk does nothing either. Also tried rebooting the large LCD screen, but no go still.
2) key fob - once every other day it seems like, my car no longer recognizes my key fob and I'm forced to reboot the large LCD screen which makes it work again...but yesterday even that didn't work so I had to revert to laying my key fob on the NFC device on the middle of the cup holders. This morning, my car is recognizing my key fob again.
Anyone else experiencing these issues?
Thanks
Greg�
Sep 3, 2013
FlasherZ You may have tried this, but this seems to make the liftgate more reliable - open the liftgate manually, and hold it an inch or two below its max open point. Hold down the height setting button for 3 seconds (or until it gives you the long beeps). Then try to close and open it.
I've had one bad day where the car was being goofy with key detection. Replacing the fob battery cleared that up for me.�
Sep 4, 2013
loganss Overnight my 3G just stopped working on a consistent basis. Was fine yesterday. I see the 3G symbol appear and disappear over and over again. I can't remotely connect to the car and when in the car the maps don't download. So weird. Is this happening to anyone else?�
Sep 4, 2013
steve841 A reboot usually clears that up .... (scroll wheel reboot for 17" display)�
Sep 4, 2013
loganss No luck when i did that. car's going into service for Supercharger HW failure so I'll have them look at that. Any other suggestions to get It working again?�
Sep 4, 2013
steve841 I recall reading about a fuse to be pulled .... but you're gonna have to search for that one...�
Sep 5, 2013
loganss I pulled the fuse and waited for an hour or so before putting it back in and 3G is still toast. Looks like Tesla Service will have to take care of this next week. Sucks. I used the remote app and maps traffic so much.�
Sep 6, 2013
beeblezap Thanks FlasherZ@ - ended up making an service appointment at the new Burlingame location next week. I also have the passenger door issue that was discussed in the earlier posts - i.e. can't completely close the passenger door w/o using obscene force.�
Sep 6, 2013
beeblezap Very high thermostat reading whenever car starts
Not sure if others are having this issue as well. I live in sunny California and the weather these days are around high 70s, but whenever I get in the car (I park mostly in covered areas like my garage or underground parking) - the thermostat reads ~98-101 (F) and I hear a whirring sound of the AC. After I drive for about 5 minutes or so, the thermostat reading gradually goes down to something more realistic. Anyone else experiencing this?�
Sep 7, 2013
loganss Yeah the same high readings happen to me too. The interior and exterior when stationary temp never seem quite right to me�
Sep 7, 2013
Doug_G So my front brace was replaced. The problem was galvanic corrosion caused by insufficient isolation of the magnesium brace from the steel bolts. There's a simple fix for this which is being implemented as a service bulletin.
They also replaced all four door handles with the new version. I had only reported trouble with one, but two more misbehaved while it was at the service center, so they did all of them.
As always the service was excellent.�
Sep 7, 2013
ckessel My HVAC temperature seems to be wacky lately. I'll turn on the AC and bump things down a few degrees, but the air doesn't get any cooler. I'll bump it all the way down and it finally kicks in and will stay on an appropriate amount as I push the temps back to normal values. Same problem on heating, it won't kick in unless I crank it to max and then bump it back down.�
Sep 9, 2013
mknox My list of issues is getting long, and I've got to make time to call and get it in. No show stoppers, but my back door is popping open most of the time now, and I have that steering "snap" real bad now too. A bunch of other stuff like tail light condensation as well. I'm at about 20,000 km now.�
Sep 9, 2013
FlasherZ Sounds like they need to run the list of TSB's with yours too. I imagine you probably need the mandatory list: rear hub nut replacement, passenger door fix, the new side panels at the base of the trunk (they replace the plastic at the bottom of the liftgate area inside the cabin), the DC-DC firmware version, and TPMS pressure setting. They also check your J1772 adapter, your 14-50 UMC adapter. There are also "upon owner complaint" TSB's for things like squeaky brakes (which mine had), rear seat belt alignment, the pano roof creak fix, and a few others.
EDIT: Clarified "open owner complaint". They aren't mandatory.�
Sep 9, 2013
Doug_G They did a bunch of TSB's on my car, including the tail light condensation. But, alas, apparently not the squeaky brakes. I guess they didn't have the parts.�
Sep 9, 2013
steve841 Any details on the TSB for brakes would be appreciated....�
Sep 9, 2013
mnx That's a long list! I think many of them must be for earlier cars. When I had my car (#4242) in on August 14th I only had 3 TSB's taken care of.
1) "Rear Window Regulator Re-inforcement Clip"
2) "Panoramic Roof Creak"
3) "Steering Notchy Feel or Clicking Sound"
#2 was the only issue that I would have brought up with them. It was annoying on bumpy roads, but is totally silent now.�
Sep 9, 2013
mknox Interesting. I've never had squeaky brakes at all. One thing I have noticed it that when I wash the car in the driveway, I can literally watch the rotors rust over in real time. Afterwards, the brakes "grind" for the first stop or two until the rust is scraped away. I never noticed that on any of my other cars before. Doesn't seem to be an issue for me, though.
The rear hub nut that FlasherZ mentions is interesting. For the last few weeks, I've noticed a very faint kind of "humm" proportional to speed from the drivetrain. I was wondering if it was gear noise I hadn't noticed before.
For those that have had the tail light condensation fixed... did they affix the chrome strip back properly? I've spoken with a few people that have had this done, and the chrome strip appears not to be tacked down towards the ends (moves in and out when you press on it).
I suppose too, I should have the defroster vent thing done. I dread ending up with dash squeak/rattles and hope they have that procedure down by now.�
Sep 9, 2013
FlasherZ Some of them are mandatory, and some of them are "upon owner's report". You have to complain about them before they do 'em.�
Sep 9, 2013
Doug_G I did complain about the squeaky brakes.�
Sep 9, 2013
FlasherZ Same problem here. When you press on the chrome "wing", you can feel it engage adhesive, but it doesn't stay stuck.
Typically, they'll do a better job reinforcing things if you have that done. I had a dash squeak and they applied felt where things were rubbing, making that noise. I just couldn't bring myself to ruin that wonderful looking grille with some ugly vents.
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I think I read somewhere here that it involves replacement of rotors.�
Sep 9, 2013
mknox I agree with you there. Others have reported horrible fogging issues with the original vent, and so I'm torn. If I wait until I find out if I have problems, it may be too late. I had a few cold days in March when I got my car and was able to keep it under control by directing all air to the defroster and leaving the fan on high. But that was March, not January or February!�
Sep 9, 2013
sueinsanjose
I mis-spoke and it was clarified that the tire rotation schedule is for rotation every 5,000 miles with an average life expectancy of 10,000-12,000 miles for the rear tires. This of course is dependent on driving style. It is important to note though so that owners can make sure they appropriately check the tires.
Suzanne�
Sep 9, 2013
FlasherZ I have found the biggest issue was the offgassing that created a film on the inside of the windshield. If I kept the inside of the glass clean once every other week, I didn't have any issues.�
Sep 9, 2013
JRP3 I'm sorry but this still sounds insane. You rotate the tires once and then they are worn out after 10-12K miles?�
Sep 9, 2013
Doug_G I'm one of those "others". The bigger problem was actually the driver's side window, which on a long trip completely frosted over for me. This was dangerous as it completely blocked my view to the left and the side rear view mirror. I had to stop and buy a scraper, and I had to use it every ten minutes or so for the rest of the trip.�
Sep 10, 2013
mknox Yep. Same here. Almost every new car I've purchased has had that "offgassing" problem and I do clean my inside glass (all the way around) every week or two.
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I remember you saying that. Did you get a chance to see how the revised vent works in that regard, or was the winter already too far in the past?�
Sep 10, 2013
Doug_G It was kinda almost too late - the hard core weather was over with. But there was still some moderately bad weather and the defog was completely effective.
We'll know for sure in a few months...�
Sep 10, 2013
loganss Just as my 3G stopped working overnight now it's working again. Woke up and just works now. Still going to SC. I'm soooo happy it's back.�
Sep 11, 2013
mknox This may seem odd, and I have no explanation as to why, buy my 3G signal gradually gets worse and worse over the course of a couple of weeks until it eventually cuts right out. I then re-boot the 17" screen and it's back to normal. I drive the same 1 hour route each day and can see the "bars" getting lower and lower over the several week period between re-boots.
When I do re-boot the 17" screen (for any reason) the 3G will usually take 15 to 20 minutes before it comes back on-line (and I'm in a 5-bar signal area).�
Sep 11, 2013
bareyb This thread is freaking me out a little....All I wanna know is... and I think what most new and perspective buyers want to know is... Is this thing going to leave me stranded?
I can handle (and even expect to have) a certain amount of growing pains that would require me to take my car in, but there are certain times for work that I HAVE to be at a certain place at a certain time and there is nobody who can take my place. The meeting would have to be canceled and 80 people would have shown up for nothing and would have to go home... Has anyone ever actually had a "no start" condition where they had to miss work? Do I need to be thinking about getting some type of backup vehicle? Am I naive to think this can be reliable enough to be my primary vehicle or should I be making some type of arrangement on the days (3 days a week) I have those meetings? Maybe I should do a poll...�
Sep 11, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla bareyb, I'd guess that atleast 98% of Model S owners have had no issues more major than a fussy door handle or a noisy pano roof or a chirpy dashboard. Things that may annoy but not leave one stranded.
Yes, there were a few folks who early on reported dead cars in the garage owing to faulty 12V batteries; Tesla has since switched suppliers and there have been no such reports of late AFAIK.
There were the even more sporadic instances where the car powered down with a warning while the car was in motion. Folks needed the main battery pack replaced on occasion.
But, like I said, less than 2% of owners may have faced such major issues and in every such instance, Tesla did right by them by helping with towing, loaners, expedited fixes and so on.�
Sep 11, 2013
EarlyAdopter I'd say that given there are increasingly more and more Model S's on the road every day yet we see fewer and fewer posts about major problems here it's a good indication Tesla has worked out the major issues and the car is proving to be extremely reliable.�
Sep 12, 2013
AmpedRealtor I took my car to the local service center to have the tires changed. I noticed the S85 loaner was much quieter at freeway speeds - my car had a "humming" noise coming from the rear that noticeably increased between 65 MPH and 75 MPH. I thought it was tire/road noise, but mentioned it to the service center just in case. They drove it and concluded that it was noisier than it should be. Engineering sent a special instrument with which to record the sound in the back of the car, and after hearing the noise Tesla Engineering advised the service center to replace the "drive inverter". They have those in stock, oddly enough, and I should have my car back on Friday or Monday. They have to send it out for an alignment after replacing the drive inverter, as the entire rear end of the vehicle comes down and the alignment gets messed up.
My car was just over 2 weeks old when it went in to service on Monday with 600 miles. Service has been excellent, diagnosis of the issue was extremely fast and the service manager called me to ensure everything was proceeding to my satisfaction. He said there was nothing technically wrong with the drive inverter, but that it should be quieter. The defective part will be shipped back to the manufacturer for analysis and to determine how to prevent this from happening again.�
Sep 12, 2013
ckessel Probably no more or less often than your typical car would due to a broken fan belt, water pump, failed fuel pump, clogged filter, bad starter, bad solenoid, dead battery (ironic there), cracked radiator, etc.
The disconcerting part is that with the Model S it's like wondering why your computer won't boot, it's just sort of a magical mystery. With an ICE, often there's visible/audible indications of the issue. Either way you're equally hosed, but there's a certain odd satisfaction in at least knowing what part to curse at in an ICE.�
Sep 12, 2013
mknox Interesting. I have had that humming for the past couple of weeks. It's proportional to speed and I was wondering if it was just tire noise I hadn't noticed before or some sort of gear whine.�
Sep 12, 2013
loganss I've hung on to one of my ICE car just in case and as a tinker car. In 16000 miles I've never had to use it in an emergency. I've just got to make sure to start it up every few months or so.�
Sep 12, 2013
mep Looks like I have the same problem. Today we went on our first long distance trip to be at the ribbon cutting ceremony of the new Supercharger station in Rockford, IL. The car was quite silent up to about 60-65 mph. At 65 mph a noise started sounding like a loud engine noise or a humming noise. It got much louder at 75 mph to a point that I could hardly hear the radio anymore. I arrived home this afternoon with a headache. Sounds like I will need to take the car to the service station. I assume that noise is NOT normal at higher speeds in a 85 model? I need some reassurance folks because on my way back I seriously thinking whether I made the right choice with a MS. If this is not normal then I am sure they can fix it. Glad I found your post.�
Sep 12, 2013
jerry33 Basically, no--unless you roll a bad number. I had one of the chargers go out on a vacation trip and Tesla flew in a Ranger to fix it. I couldn't charge but there was enough range left that the only down time was the two hours the Ranger took to install a new one. Great car, great service. I've had worse experiences with other cars.�
Sep 12, 2013
gg_got_a_tesla Regarding the humming noise, it does sound abnormal. I have no such noise at even 85-95 mph (done only occasionally when totally safe, I might add) with my 60 from January.�
Sep 12, 2013
Newscutter Funny! That's one of the thoughts that has been rattling around my head. My work is very dependent on computers and they frequently leave me wishing for a return to the steam age.
Repeating "computers make our lives easier" over and over isn't nearly as satisfying as it should be.
Maybe I should try more cursing.�
Sep 12, 2013
AmpedRealtor My car is a P85 and the noise was determined to be abnormally loud, so I would say that if you hear this loud humming noise it should not be considered normal even on a P85. The P85's inverter is a little more efficient, I believe, but otherwise not that much different than a S85. The noise levels should be comparable. I also thought my car might be louder due to the pano roof (loaner had no pano), but I was wrong there as well.
One other issue that I'm having them look into is that my backup camera seems a bit out of focus compared to the one in the loaner car, which was tack sharp. I am going to compare my vehicle's camera to the loaner's camera tomorrow when I pick up my car. I've read other threads here indicating that others are having the same issue. Perhaps Tesla changed camera suppliers and the quality is not the same as it used to be?�
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