Sep 27, 2012
kevincwelch Do you get the "floating" back-up cam video that won't swap? I noticed this in the Get Amped vehicles.
This starting to remind me of the 15,000th auto fail in the movie Gung Ho.
�
Sep 27, 2012
Doug_G That could be due to battery balancing, which occurs when you leave the car fully charged. If that is the case, the rate will slow down.�
Sep 27, 2012
shokunin Dadaleus was told that he should be careful with the "thin paint" which could be true. I didn't think the get amp tours paint was soft as even with the pictures from later events, the paint still looked good. It could apply to whole car or just the clear coat is thin.
�
Sep 27, 2012
strider As Doug said, it's possible the battery is out of balance. I would keep driving and charging it each night and it'll shake out. Also it's good that you're letting it sit after charging. Balancing occurs after charging so it's good to let it sit for 30 mins or so afterwards (cable can remain plugged in).�
Sep 28, 2012
DrDave There is no way Tesla would let cars go out with thin clear - that is an instant warranty claim and the vehicle would have to be repainted. If Dada was told this by a rep, it's another case of a rep talking about something they were uninformed about. Until someone can tell me exactly which technology they are using (company and type), I am not buying the "soft" clear pguerra refers to.�
Sep 28, 2012
pete8314 +1 that idea, I think it'll be a lot clearer to have a dedicated sub-forum for bugs/issues/troubleshooting, ideally with a thread per problem...there seems to be a lot of commonality with the issues cropping up at the moment, or course over time, it won't stay that simple...�
Sep 28, 2012
mknox From the Tesla Model S Warranty Guide:
In addition to the above exclusions and limitations, this New Vehicle
Limited Warranty does not cover any of the following:
Any corrosion or paint defects including, but not limited to, the
following:
� Corrosion from defects in non-Tesla manufactured or supplied
materials or workmanship causing perforation (holes) in body
panels or the chassis from the inside out;
� Surface or cosmetic corrosion causing perforation in body panels or
the chassis from the outside in, such as stone chips or scratches;
and
� Corrosion and paint defects caused by, due to or resulting from
accidents, paint matching, abuse, neglect, improper maintenance
or operation of the vehicle, installation of an accessory, exposure to
chemical substances, or damages resulting from an act of God or
nature, fire, or improper storage;�
Sep 28, 2012
doug The easy thing to do was to add a wiki to this thread which I've done.
If you have individual threads various issues you can also link to them in the wiki post.�
Sep 28, 2012
sublimaze1 My oh My; there is some scary stuff in these last 28 or so posts. I certainly hope that many of them are because we (purchasers of this vehicle) are just a bit more hard-to-please than the average Joe. The paint issue bothers me. The pixels in the 17" bothers me more. The battery used to bother me the most, but if it is just a matter of "breaking it in", then I can hang in there.
Waiting ... / P188�
Sep 28, 2012
ggr Smith came down from Costa Mesa. It's an amazingly finicky job... I watched (and probably bothered him, but he's too nice to say so) during breaks between meetings. Took about 3 hours, with many adjustments to be made. As always I am extremely happy with Tesla service.
At some point he rebooted the screens and the stray pointer droppings disappeared. I'm pretty sure they appeared while I was using the nav system, so I'll try that tonight, see if I can duplicate the problem.�
Sep 28, 2012
FlasherZ Small bugs are to be expected. Overwriting the wrong/video memory because you mishandled a pointer is a pretty common programming mistake. Let's hope all of their code review efforts have been focused on the drivetrain components.
�
Sep 28, 2012
mknox
I hear you. Based on my mileage, I expect to blow through the warranty in about two years, and so far as I know there is no extended plan available. The warranty itself is pretty skinny (i.e. no paint or corrosion coverage at all - very unusual). I hear all of the very positive comments on how Tesla bends over backwards to make things right, and I'm sure that's true... but I do worry about expensive, uncovered repairs in just a few short years from purchase.�
Sep 28, 2012
chmod a+wrx Battery.....not sure......
Screen.....this is probably a simple software or programming error......these things are typically easy to fix......�
Sep 28, 2012
Todd Burch I wouldn't worry too much. We're very early in the rollout of a new product, so there are bound to be issues. They will be ironed out...and each new car off the line (and every new update) will fix issues. The great thing is that it looks like the drivetrain--the truly most important part of the car--seems to be rock-solid so far.�
Sep 28, 2012
RDoc I don't agree this is a minor software bug. I haven't seen that kind of software error since I stopped using assembly language. Something has to be very wrong with the OS and/or compiler to overlay memory addresses like that in a modern system. If they're using assembler, or some unprotected language like C, then there are likely going to be a lot of bugs.
My suspicion is that the video hardware is broken.�
Sep 28, 2012
aviators99 I totally disagree, and I have 37 years of programming experience to back it up. Unfortunately, FlasherZ is correct, and this is a common programming mistake. It's something Microsoft is somewhat infamous for. If one of my programmers makes this mistake, they become someone else's programmer.�
Sep 28, 2012
ahimberg Does someone have a picture of what this looks like? I have seen pixely lines that are hardware problems (had a vertical band of shimmery caused by overheating once), and patterns that are software, a picture might help the guessing�
Sep 28, 2012
smorgasbord Got a picture to post?�
Sep 28, 2012
KenEE That's just standard warranty speak. It's only covering Tesla against external circumstances beyond their control. Paint and corrosion *are* covered if the problem is or is caused by a manufacturers defect.�
Sep 28, 2012
pguerra Soft paint or not, the weak warranty on the paint would suggest to me that putting Opti-Coat 2.0 on the vehicle would not be a bad idea.
I really hope this car exceeds my expectations ...and in a positive, not negative, way! Right now, things aren't looking too hot. Hopefully, "all the bugs will be ironed out" and "it's early in the production roll out" and "Tesla will take care of it" , etc.
Only time will tell.�
Nov 3, 2012
jerry33 Perhaps something over the sensor to fool the car into thinking the door was closed?�
Nov 3, 2012
NigelM Yes you can. Providing that you are willing to put up with the warning beeps every few seconds.
- - - Updated - - -
Since reading about this yesterday I've watched a few people getting in and out my car. There were a couple of instances of the door not closing fully, but people were being very gentle with this brand new car (which is appreciated!)
I have to agree with Jason as neither my wife nor I have had a problem.�
Nov 3, 2012
Raven Perfect. I've been impressed so far with how thought-through this car is. For a new car from a newish company, it's very impressive.�
Nov 3, 2012
teslasguy Doesn't feel like I've seen as much activity on here (re:deliveries) this week as last.
Or maybe it's just me and my 'wait anxiety' ;/)�
Nov 3, 2012
Jason S I think it has simply all been said. Nothing to do but agree with the earlier posters who essentially say that the "Car of the Year" awards are fully justified.�
Nov 3, 2012
Sig698 I've trained myself to use more force than usual when closing my passenger door (I.E. slamming it) and pushing it in at the angle that works best, but it still doesn't always work and it seems to be an alignment issue. It still requires 2 tries maybe 30% of the time with my adjusted technique, and this specific door is definitely different from the rest.
In a more recent but somewhat minor development, my front brakes have started to squeal rather loudly when coming to a complete stop. Has anyone else had this issue?�
Nov 3, 2012
ChadS 1700 miles and no, no squealing. But maybe all the rain up here has been keeping the brakes lubricated.
I had a couple of software issues in an earlier release, but they were fixed with the latest release. Everything is working great on my car.�
Nov 4, 2012
kevincwelch Would owners mind giving us an update on potential issues with the sunroof? ( I'm referring to possible noise and/ or creaking when opening up the sunroof as well as wind related noise when driving.)�
Nov 4, 2012
PRJIM Is there a procedure for a hard reset of the 17 inch display? I am thinking that I will just pull the fuse located in the Frunk. I have an issue where the 17 inch display is stuck on the camera selection. The scroll wheel reset has not resolved this issue.�
Nov 4, 2012
Raven Sig698, I'm willing to bed a good deal of money that your brakes are simply "glazing", if I remember the term properly. You're likely never using the brakes hard enough to heat them up to where you burn the glazing off, leading to squealing. This happens with driving that only applies brakes lightly and at low speeds. Try taking your car up to 60(shouldn't take long�
Nov 4, 2012
cinergi There is but not sure it's something I should advertise. Ask your service advisor to see if they're comfortable telling you how to do it (and if you're comfortable doing it).
I had to have mine hard reset 'cuz the 3G stopped working and soft resets didn't fix it, so I now know how to do it in case it happens again.�
Nov 4, 2012
dsm363 Not sure about a hard reset but have you called Tesla service to see what they say? Hopefully it is something they can address remotely or roll into the next update so it'd be good for them to take a look at it if you haven't already called them.�
Nov 4, 2012
CalEECS My brakes are squealing a bit, and there is also some rubbing noise when I released them. I've had this happen in other cars; I think it's a standard issue with new disc brakes. I wouldn't worry until you have a couple thousand miles on.�
Nov 4, 2012
mknox Okay, I'll bite. Is there some risk of causing damage or some other grief doing a hard reset? A lot of us know how hard and soft resets work on other electronic devices, so this statement has piqued my curiosity.�
Nov 4, 2012
ChadS When opening/closing the sunroof, sometimes it's quiet, sometimes it squeaks fairly loud. But just on open/close, that doesn't bother me.
Weather hasn't been great since it was delivered, so we haven't driven with it open a lot. But so far wind noise while open has not been bothersome at all.
When it's closed and we're driving over and bumps and/or speeding up or slowing down, it often creaks. It's pretty quiet and not a big deal as-is; but it's obviously loud enough that I notice it at least some of the time, and I wonder if it might get worse over time.�
Nov 4, 2012
PRJIM
My car is scheduled to have all these issues taken care of once the parts are available. My service advisor told me that he will take care of all these issues when I bring the car in. Right now I am just looking for an interim solution. I do not see any harm in removing the fuse, as this may accomplish the same result as the official hard reset procedure?�
Nov 4, 2012
cinergi I have no idea. All I know is the service manager said he was OK with me doing it (I asked, in case it happened again) only because I clearly understood what was involved. He said he'd normally not instruct others on how to do it. Now, *why* that is is anybody's guess.�
Nov 4, 2012
markwj It is the difference between control-alt-del and yanking the power cord. The first instructs the system to reset itself gracefully, and the second just powers off the system without any chance for a graceful shutdown.
Hopefully they have designed the system with the right type of filesystem to cope with such events, but if it was my car, I'd talk to Tesla Service before yanking the fuse. They may have a less drastic way.�
Nov 4, 2012
Ben W The sunroof does make a loud whistle when slightly open (or during the opening-closing process) at speed; this is a known issue. The creaking has affected several cars, including mine; the service reps said it seemed to be due to some tacky adhesive on the sunroof seal, and they ordered a replacement seal. I'll post again once this is installed.�
Nov 4, 2012
DaveVa My Ranger did a "hard boot" to fix a problem with the liftgate. He disconnected the 12v battery to let all the computer systems reset - unfortunately the battery is not easily accessible. He also warned that if "you drop a bolt" you have to basically disassemble all the frunk trim to get access. Not something I want to do...�
Nov 4, 2012
Babylonfive If I recall the 12V battery layout, you should definitely not drop a bolt onto THAT unless you like molten metal and 500A+ current spikes.
My late dad told me a story of someone (!) dropping a 28" crescent wrench into the battery comparment of a mini submarine, shorting out a 750AH 36V pack. Luckily the wrench melted off the terminals in short order... was a 'mess'.�
Nov 4, 2012
Sig698 Lots of little glitches! My UMC button has now stopped popping the charge port, I'll have to take it in to the service center to have it checked out next time I'm there.�
Nov 4, 2012
DrComputer I have a creak somewhere in the rear section in the sunroof. They are going to look at it when they replace my windshield. I've also developed a creak from the seatbelt retractor mechanism on the drivers side. I'll have them check that out too.�
Nov 4, 2012
ckessel I actually had a dream last night on this, no joke. I got my car and it was plagued with issues. In my dream it was sort of possessed car, lights came on and off sporadically, doors wouldn't stay closed, flickering displays. Then it flipped to some interview with Musk and a panel of other Tesla folks in a post mortem interview of the Model S release with an audience of disgrunted owners that were heckling the panel due shoddy quality. The panel walked out mid-interview, looking sad and beaten.
I guess my subconscious is rather worried.�
Nov 4, 2012
kevincwelch Your license plate wouldn't happen to say "Christine" on it, would it?
- - - Updated - - -
Is it a creak when opening the sunroof? Also, what happened to the windshield?�
Nov 4, 2012
DrComputer No, it's a creak when open or closed. I can't quite tell if it's the fixed glass portion or the support cross member. It gets worse when the body is stressed (going up an uneven driveway or over bumps). As for the windshield there is a flaw in the UV coating right in the driver's field of view that makes it look like you are looking through wavy water. Tesla is going to replace it and send it back to the glass vendor for inspection.�
Nov 4, 2012
ckessel Worried as I might be on the quality front, that's actually reasonably benign and obviously a supplier issue rather than a core issue with Tesla's design (which I'm worried about on the pano squeaks). Though I'm a little surprised it slipped through the 50-100 miles of test drive given it's on the driver's side.�
Nov 4, 2012
Ben W I've requested to Tesla that a quadruple-click on the key fob (essentially "open - open") should pop the charge port door. Too many situations where this would be convenient:
1. The Roadster HPC <-> Model S adapter doesn't pop the charge port, so it has to be done manually from inside.
2. Half the time it's more convenient to plug the car-end of the mobile charger in first, but the UMC button only works if you plug the wall-end in first.
3. I can't count of the number of times I've been in a parking lot somewhere, strike up a conversation about the Model S, and want to quickly pop the charge port to show it, without having to awkwardly bend into the car to fiddle with the touchscreen to pop it open.
This should be a trivial change in a software update; I hope they listen! (User-settable options for triple-click and quadruple-click would be even better!)�
Nov 4, 2012
aviators99 I volunteer as an arbitrator for the Lemon Law for the State of Florida. One of my favorite cases was "The Case of the Haunted <manufacturer redacted>", around 10 years ago. The car basically behaved just like your dream, with one major addition. For Lemon Law cases, I have to drive the vehicle. While I was driving it, the lights started flashing, the wipers started going, and then the car said, "HELLO!" to me. The stereo was one of the ones where it would speak "Hello" when it turned on, and whatever the problem was with this car, it caused the stereo to turn on and off, in addition to the other electrical devices. I decided that either the car was haunted, or I was on Candid Camera--but it was neither. I gave the consumer a new car.�
Nov 4, 2012
ckessel Most cars have a lever or button to pop the gas cap. Given you pop the charge port door far more on an EV than an ICE gas cap, it should have been a similarly simple, single purpose button to pop the charge port.�
Nov 4, 2012
Jason S 1) I wondered if it was supposed to work like that. Figured it doesn't since the whole thing seems like a hack. It charges and that's all I care about. :smile:
Another button on side of key fob for the charger port could be an answer too. I have a hard time with the roll down all windows function on the keyfob too. (double click then click-hold, iirc)�
Nov 4, 2012
PRJIM Tesla needs to come out with the Smartphone app. I would much rather control these functions via my phone, as it seems more convenient than nested key fob functions.�
Nov 4, 2012
ckessel That can't be the only solution though. Some of us don't have smart phones.�
Nov 4, 2012
DrComputer I'd rather have the double click and hold function (currently rolls down the windows) be user customizable so we could set that as charge port door open command... or possibly you press both the trunk and frunk at the same time.�
Nov 5, 2012
jerry33 There should be a small button on the side of the fob to open the charge door. (In keeping with the law of similarity).�
Nov 8, 2012
ChadS I am glad to hear they are working on it. I don't often leave my car around unplugged; but when I have with the Roadster, it seems to lose about 1% of capacity per day. I just tried this with the Model S; we went to Cannon Beach OR, and it sat unplugged for a little under 2 days. It lost 26 miles, which is more like 5% per day. Yikes. Fortunately we still had enough to make it back to Portland - without as much buffer as I would have liked, but I'd remembered this thread and also knew there was an EVSE in Timber, OR that was right on the way so we stopped there for a little while.�
Nov 9, 2012
Sig698 I hate that this is the thread that I frequent most often, but here are a few updates:
My charge door not opening problem magically disappeared. Tesla was nice enough to give me a new UMC (although I'm somewhat convinced they just said they were switching them out and gave me my old one back, it has a scratch in the same spot) so hopefully the problem won't surface again. I've also had my spoiler added as well as the rear parcel shelf (not sure if it's the new or old design).
More developments have surfaced regarding my dreaded passenger front door. They are going to replace my door latch, which will hopefully help the situation. It is currently on order and I'll update when it is installed. In other passenger door news, my electric handle no longer extends when I touch it, only with the double tap of the key fob. When recessed, the handle also appears to be sunken in more than the others, with a noticeable gap between the door and the handle, maybe 1-2mm. I'm not sure if the issues are related at all, but that door has definitely been a troublemaker. The reliability of the door handles was a concern of mine before the car was ordered, and I'm a bit displeased that my worries have come to fruition.
Tesla in general has been fairly good in dealing with the issues. I'm sure everyone at the service center hates my guts by now (I've been rather... firm with them regarding my issues) but they have still been doing their best to accommodate me and return my calls and texts in a very timely manner. They've also said they will throw in some freebies to make up for all of my issues, as well as some MAJOR issues I had with their communications with me.
I still LOVE the driving experience of the car, and I really want Tesla to succeed, but with my issues I've become a bit paranoid now at every hint of something going wrong. Hopefully as things get corrected, the car will no longer require weekly trips to the service center, but in the meantime the issues have soured my experience ever so slightly. I had been Tesla's biggest cheerleader before receiving the car, and I've been slightly put off by my experience afterwards. I hope that soon I will be back to my head cheerleader position :smile:�
Nov 9, 2012
roblab Sorry you're having a bad time. But wait! I thought *I* was their biggest cheerleader! My door latch quit, it was replaced. All is well. Also the Frunk latch bent, and was replaced and is better than before. Also the rear hatch had to be re-aligned. It looks great. Also the charge door magnet catch popped off and I reglued it with superglue. I found that the charge door antenna is about half a dozen lines down on the rear hatch, so if it doesn't see the cord, I just point it at the hatch, and no more problems.
Hey. This is a new car. First one off the shelf. You knew it would be hard for Tesla to get it all perfect the first time, what with suppliers not doing it right. I can't believe the whole car is so doggone wonderful. All of my issues have been taken care of, and new ones will be taken care of. Yeah, it's a pain to take the time, but it's free, and I support Tesla. I keep feeling amazed that I can be driving the best car in the world. (sorry for all you that don't agree, but it's just an opinion)
Chin up, Bucko! It will all be OK in a little while. Your repair trips will get further between, and you will again love your car. There isn't another one like it, and you know it!
Besides, I got two phone calls today while driving back from the shop, with people wanting to ask about the car, and two Prii drove by with thumbs up and all smiles. Left me feeling pretty good.
RAH RAH, GO TESLA!�
Nov 9, 2012
markwj If it helps, I was in the same boat as you with my Roadster for the first six months. Way too many ranger call outs.
But, for the past year, zero issues. The car runs like a dream, and I almost miss the rangers. The filth in the PEM and battery compartment shows how good it has been�
Nov 9, 2012
NigelM Sig698, sorry to hear your problems, sounds like you got a bad door handle and that's caused he door problem also. Just wanted to add my reassurance that I've had zero problems with anything to date.....aside from the fact that my wife now drives Model S all the time and I'm back in the Roadster (I know, I know, that's pretty good consolation).�
Nov 9, 2012
PRJIM Has anyone had a problem with the rear window regulator? I hear a noticeable grinding noise when the power window button is in use�
Nov 9, 2012
Sig698 Thanks for the reassurance, guys, it does help�
Nov 9, 2012
brianman "Two Tesla problems"
(akin to first world problems)
�
Nov 9, 2012
stephenpace Did anyone post the workaround for the intermittent buzzing in night mode noise yet? It is rare, but I had it happen again today. I called service just so they could mark the time and pull my car logs, and I was immediately given a workaround which was to adjust screen brightness to 100%. I did that, and it did the trick for me. They also said they are working on a more permanent fix.�
Nov 10, 2012
DrComputer Yes, the buzzing is actually caused by the ambient lights. Just go into the lights setting screen and turn them off and the buzzing will stop. No fix as of yet (except to just turn them off).�
Nov 10, 2012
ckessel We're going to need an FAQ on known issues and workarounds/fixes.�
Nov 10, 2012
deaton52 I've had my Model S now for 10 days, with very few problems, and loving it (nothing that a soft reset on both screens couldn't fix). However, last night I encountered a very weird problem. I left the airport parking garage, and everything was fine. About 5 min into my drive home, I took my foot off the accelerator and was shocked to NOT feel the regen braking come on! The display had an orange 'dotted line' at about -10kW, that later moved to about -30kW. When I took my foot off the accelerator, the power use indicator would not go into the 'green' regen more than 1-2 kW (barely visible) even when going 65 mph! I switched regen from standard to low and back again a few times, but it didn't do anything. However, about 10 minutes later, the problem disappeared, including the strange orange dotted line, just as quickly as it showed up, for no reason (I was simply continuing my drive home on I5, planning to do a soft reboot of the computer when I got home). Anyone else have anything similar to this? I will report to the TeslaGuys for the record, but it is not a problem now. But a bit scary. What other software glitch that affect driving safety could happen while driving down the highway at 70 mph?�
Nov 10, 2012
JakeP Hasn't there been some discussion, confirmed by Roadster owners, that the battery's ability to accept regen charging is temperature-dependent, and takes a few minutes of warm-up time before it can occur? Perhaps the battery was too cold from being left outside at the airport parking garage, and took time to warm up, which is why the issue disappeared after ten minutes.
If this is the cause, clearly it is something that needs to be communicated, as drivers will expect the regen to slow the vehicle, and need to learn to apply brakes instead on a cold car/battery.�
Nov 10, 2012
ToddRLockwood At the Natick MA store opening, I asked George B and the lead technician for the new Boston service center if Tesla had spec'd "high zinc content rotors" for the Brembo brakes. They weren't sure. I just received a message from a new Model S owner whose rotors rusted after the first two car washes. I experienced this for years with my Audi S6, and it's a major nuisance. What happens is that the iron oxide on the rotors gets imbedded in the pads, and then, after some moderate braking at freeway speeds the pads will glaze the rotors. From that point forward, the brakes will chatter as if the rotors are warped. There's no way to clean them, short of machining the rotors. I replaced the rotors and pads on my S6 numerous times before figuring out the solution: high zinc content rotors. They are considerably more corrosion resistant and only cost about $20 more per rotor. Tesla should be using these as standard equipment. I wouldn't be surprised if Brembo offers them as an option.�
Nov 10, 2012
David-El Iirc and you had a full charge on the battery, the regen is limited when the battery is full. That is why the dotted line, then, once you had driven and used enough of the battery, the limit was removed and you had access to full regen.�
Nov 10, 2012
ChadS I've noticed similar behavior to deaton's. When cold, or full, regen is limited. The little dotted line shows you the max available regen. In my case, when cold, regen was limited from when I turned the car on because I was parked outside. In deaton's case, it was probably just warm enough in parking garage that he could regen at first, but colder outside once he started driving but before he'd driven enough to warm up the batteries.
It is no doubt surprising the first time it happens, but I think the dotted line is a pretty good indicator. The Roadster behavior is similar, but it has a lamp come on rather than a dotted line on the power meter.
I'll bet they also have a similar dotted line on the other end of the power meter if you get to the other end of the spectrums (too hot, or low on battery) and power output needs to be limited.�
Nov 10, 2012
strider Yep, just to chime in and second the last few posts. The first time I range-mode charged my Roadster (~3 weeks into ownership) and regen was disabled I thought the car was broken. I almost blew through a stop sign as I thought, "Why isn't it slowing down!" and then nailed the brakes. I looked in the manual and sure enough it said that if the battery is too full it will limit regen (no place to put the energy). Also a characteristic of Li-Ion is that it can discharge at a lower temp than it can be charged. So the car will run at low temps but won't be able to regen/charge until the batteries are warmed up. Maybe Tesla needs to add a stronger warning (like in the Roadster) than the dashed line.�
Nov 10, 2012
Sig698 I noticed similar behavior to what everyone is describing (yelllow line, no regen) when I did my first range charge. Made me nervous at first but I figured it was because of the full battery.
I was just wondering that myself. I guess we do need to consider adopting a tiny bit of ICE like behavior if we want to preserve our cars as long as possible (ie, no flooring it on a cold "engine"/pack). Does anyone have any idea of how long it takes the pack to reach operating temperature or what operating temperature is? Living in Sunny Southern California, I have yet to experience any temperature related regen limiting.�
Nov 10, 2012
PRJIM I have not done a full range mode charge yet on my Model S, but others have reported that regen is not disabled on the Model S after a full-range mode charge. I believe Rod and Barbara reported that a full-range mode charge on the Model S does not disable regen-as it does on the Roadster.�
Nov 10, 2012
ChadS Regen was disabled on my Model S after a range mode charge. Not completely disabled, just reduced - the dotted line kept moving farther and farther until full regen capability was back, then the dotted line went away. I didn't measure time or miles, but it didn't seem to take very long.
That's what I like better than the on-or-off "no regen" lamp in the Roadster.�
Nov 10, 2012
Doug_G I was quite aware of the missing regen when Range mode charged or cold. But despite that the first time my Roadster got cold enough it was very surprising. Instead of decelerating at the parking lot exit it just rolled, and I was so startled that I nailed the brakes. Then I looked at the console and saw the "no regen" light. D'oh. After that experience I was never surprised again. All that said I find it annoying when the regen is disabled - feels like I'm driving an ICE.�
Nov 10, 2012
ckessel Maybe a voice warning should go into the feature wish list thread "Warning, regen is disabled until the battery reaches normal operating temperature."�
Nov 10, 2012
phx182flyer would "I'm sorry Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that..." be appropriate?�
Nov 10, 2012
NigelM Ditto. Makes you feel like this car knows what it's doing.�
Nov 10, 2012
Doug_G Re regenerative braking in the cold... this patent is interesting: Patent US20060028167 - ENERGY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM AND METHOD - Google Patents
A quick scan of the patent suggest that, if the battery is too cold for regen, the regenerative energy is instead applied to a battery heater. That will slow the car and use the energy to warm up the battery to a point where it can accept regenerative charging. Very clever.
Back to your regularly scheduled topic...�
Nov 10, 2012
EarlyAdopter Or they could apply the friction brakes when the battery is too full or cold to accept regen.
Tesla needs to follow the Rule of Least Astonishment and keep the deceleration behavior consistent at all times before someone glides through a red light on a cold morning and hits someone.�
Nov 10, 2012
brianman Interesting, I always thought it was "Rule of Least Surprise". Apparently rule vs. principle and astonishment vs. surprise varies.
Anyway, interesting wikipedia entry:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Least_surprise�
Nov 10, 2012
TEG Both my RangerEV and LEAF disable regen for a while after the battery is charged to "100%" full.
Another reason to keep routine charging to less than full (in the case of the LEAF "80%".)�
Nov 11, 2012
jkirkebo I thought the Model S would keep the battery at a reasonable temperature (ie not too cold) when plugged in ?�
Nov 11, 2012
NigelM Personally I don't want my car applying brakes for me as that's going to reduce range, even if its only a small amount.
Because of my Roadster experience I immediately understood the dotted line and limited regen following the range charge I did. After reading some of these comments I checked the owners manual and the safety manual and didn't find any reference to limited regen. If its missing, Tesla really needs to include something for new EV drivers.�
Nov 11, 2012
Todd Burch It will keep it at a reasonable temperature for battery health/longevity. A reasonable temperature for regen is a different matter.�
Nov 11, 2012
kevincwelch Does anyone have this with the latest firmware update? It looked almost as if the dash screen was scratched with these hatch marks. (I am making a mockup of the dash I saw last night when doing a test drive.)
�
Nov 11, 2012
Doug_G The Roadster does. Have to wait and see what the Model S does...�
Nov 11, 2012
donauker Yes, I have had some pixilation with the latest firmware. Not near as bad as earlier versions but still occurred recently.�
Nov 11, 2012
jerry33 For now, when the pixilation gets annoying enough, you reset the display. This can be done anytime. The 17" display is reset by pressing and holding both scroll buttons. The instrument cluster is reset by holding both top steering wheel buttons.�
Nov 11, 2012
Kauai Anyone have trouble charging? I get the following error message:
Car Needs Service
Unable to Charge
There were some additional messages about the charging system overheating but I foolishly didn't write them down and now they no longer display. For context I picked up my Model S Performance yesterday (Sat, Nov 10th) at Fremont. Charged at home using 14-50 just installed with the electrician watching. Ran a few short errands after than, and left the car plugged in overnight on standard charge. This morning saw the error codes. Car seemed fully charged for Standard mode and drives fine, but I am unable to charge it so off to service on Monday...
Goes without saying that I will miss the car even more now that I've had it my hands for a hot second!�
Nov 11, 2012
bonnie Just a tip - when you see an error message, grab your cell phone and snap a quick picture. It helps when you're talking to your service rep (because there will be an error code). And the pic is invaluable for an error that isn't easily reproducible.
Hope you get your car back quickly!�
Nov 11, 2012
Kauai Thanks Bonnie! I kicked myself for not doing exactly that when I realized that some of the error codes cleared. Hopefully there is an internal log of the codes the techs can read out in service.�
Nov 11, 2012
dsm363 That sucks. Did the car ever charge or have you tried a 110V outlet? Hope it gets fixed soon.�
Nov 11, 2012
Kauai The car did charge. When I got home from the factory, I plugged into the 14-50 outlet and charged for about an hour at 40amps with the electrician who installed the plug monitoring and learning about the car. The outlet is on a dedicated 50amp breaker in its own panel. This was the first Model S my electrician had seen :biggrin: Later I drove around some and plugged back in overnight though I limited to 30amps. In the morning I had the various error codes...�
Nov 11, 2012
Kauai Wow talk about service. I swung by the Menlo store/ service center to drop the car off. A tech was around and even though service isnt open on Sunday, he cleared the error codes and charged up my car while I waited. I am posting from the car as a take a spin on a glorious Fall day. Still some work to figure the original issue, but I'm loving my car in the meantime�
Nov 11, 2012
Cottonwood And some of us use the car out of cell phone coverage on a regular basis... Maybe, if Tesla gets the WiFi working, the smart phone can just communicate via WiFi, when in range.
Also, another issue: Charge Port Door Not Opening
This morning I went to plug my Model S in, I put the UMC over the rear window, and heard the charge port door release click, but the little door did not open. I tried this multiple times from the rear and the 17" display. Each time, I heard the click of the release, but the charge port door did not open. I did this with and without the key fob in my pocket.
My theory was that the door was stuck. I went and got a thin, flat screwdriver, and used the UMC button again. When I heard the click, I applied gentle pressure to open the charge port door, and it opened. I looked around the edge of the charge port door and the opening it goes into, but could not find any interference points. For now, the little screwdriver will stay with the car.
The next time I tried to open the charge port, it worked.�
Nov 11, 2012
dsm363 If you have a mobile phone with a camera on it, that will work. The picture doesn't have the great quality.�
Nov 12, 2012
vfx Chad, do you think they have revised this with software upgrades? When I do the occasional Range charge it does not seem to be an On or Off issue like it used to.�
Nov 12, 2012
bonnie Yes, that's all I meant. The quality only has to be good enough to read the error code. I usually have my cell phone on me - it's just remembering to take a pic. Then I attach it to an email and forward to TM service.�
Nov 12, 2012
ChadS The Roadster's regen itself clearly starts small and grows over time. It's only the lamp on the dash that has to be on-or-off. (And it does appear to turn off before regen is fully restored).�
Nov 12, 2012
vfx That's what I meant.
And I too use my cellphone to take pictures of VDscreens that are new to me. Service wants the exact description and/or the code in the corner.�
Nov 12, 2012
brianman Including typos if there are any. You wouldn't believe how often that helps zero in on issues. At least, it's been useful for me doing so.�
Nov 13, 2012
William13 This am I tried to use the power port between the seats. I plugged in a small tire air pump to this cigarette lighter/ power port which the manual says is good for 15 amps or 180 watts. I blew the fuse in less than a second. Looking at the manual further, the fuse in this location is marked with a "5". Does this mean 5 or 15? Is it mismarked?
Immediately after this the warning light came on saying the 12 volt battery has a fault. Repair quickly. Replace 12 volt battery.
I called and they put a service order in, but I have not yet heard back(Only 6 hours ago). The car otherwise works like a champ. I love it.�
Nov 14, 2012
VolkerP The Model S owners guide lists a 15A fuse (F35). Description is "2V Power Socket". I assume 2V is a typo and should read 12V.
This power socket should at least be capable to run the Tire Repair Kit offered by Tesla.�
Nov 14, 2012
William13 I was looking at charger,charge port which is a 5 amp. I expect you are right that it is the 2 volt power socket which is 15 amp and 12 volts.�
Nov 14, 2012
William13 The Ranger came tonight. They thought I had a bad 12 volt battery. It was just the fuse for the power socket. He was very polite,efficient, timely, and intelligent. Kudos.
They are working hard to make this new company blossom.�
Nov 14, 2012
goyogi at 87% and above it doesn't buzz in mine. Not a big deal and I'm sure they'll have a fix.�
Nov 16, 2012
MitchL Picked up my Model S today, and ran some errands. About 60 miles into my journey, I had just dropped the kids off at home. When I got back into the car, there was a message something like:
12V Battery is low. Car my shut down at any time.
Contact service
(I didn't get a picture). I reset both the instrument cluster and the center console and the message was gone, and I haven't seen it since.
I could have sworn that someone else on this thread or on the forum had a similar experience. I'm not spooked (yet), but the phrase "may shut down at any time" is not something you want to see in a *car*
/Mitch.�
Nov 16, 2012
Tommy It's problems like this that have me worried. Reading through the thread, I have to wonder how some of these problems weren't caught during what is suppose to be an extensive QC. Loose valve stems, steering alignment out of adjustment, bad door handle, etc. I am baffled why these problems surface so suddenly after a customer takes delivery, especially if an extensive QC is being done. Maybe Tesla needs to revisit their QC procedures.�
Nov 16, 2012
NigelM Contact service if you didn't do it already. The nice thing is that they can pull the logs remotely and tell you if you have an issue or not.�
Nov 16, 2012
MitchL I sent them an email ("[email�protected]") and will call in the morning to speak to a human.
/Mitch.�
Nov 16, 2012
ElSupreme Remember that this is common for ALL NEW CARS JD Power's average rating for initial quality (problems in first 90 days) is 102 per 100 cars. Yes that is right there are on average more problems than cars in the first 90 days.
Lexus had the least amount of problems industry wide with a paltry 73 problems per 100 vehicles
2012 U.S. Initial Quality Study Results | J.D. Power�
Nov 16, 2012
jerry33 New cars have defects. What's important is how the manufacturer deals with them. If there is a system in place to fix them without more than a minor inconvenience to the owner, then it's a non-issue. If you have to fight with them (or more likely the dealer for other cars) before they fix it--assuming they ever do, putting off repairs until the vehicle is out of warranty so the customer can be charged is an all too common tactic--then it's a problem.�
Nov 18, 2012
FJT Im am new to this forum and just placed my order for the S yesterday. I must admit I'm a little concerned with the small but yet irritating issues that are popping up for a car in this price range. I hope someone from Tesla is reading and listening. Obviously I am a fan and want to succeed but they must improve to their QC or else once the top luxury car companies (BMW, Porsche, Merc) start manufacturing EVs at some point, it will be game over.�
Nov 18, 2012
DaveVa I have had many new cars - some flawless. The Model S is still, by far, my favorite.�
Nov 18, 2012
jerry33 Because of the over-the-air updates, by the time you get your car the majority of the early bugs will be gone. They've already squashed many of them.
I don't think you'll have to worry about any of the larger car companies. They are all doing as little as possible to forward EVs, other than a press announcement and a concept car every so often. By the time they get serious, it will be too late for most of them.�
Nov 18, 2012
brianman Welcome to the forum.
Speaking as one of the apparently "lucky" ones, I've been satisfied with the QC on my vehicle, though there are some nitpicks (like my Paint Armor isn't applied yet) that I consider well within the "early adopter" tax.
While it can be concerning, as you note, hearing the negatives on the forum keep in mind that people are usually less vocal about "no issues" (much like people are quicker to complain during employee reviews than to praise).
I suspect the "lucky" are outnumbering the "unlucky", otherwise the "quiet many" would likely find the TMC forum (or the official TMI forum) and vent a bit.�
Nov 20, 2012
FJT
Thank you for the valuable feedback. I am 469 on the Canadian list. They say delivery will be 9 months away. Can't wait.�
Nov 24, 2012
FlasherZ After delivery today, there are a couple of things that have to be resolved on my model S.
1. For some reason, the GPS receiver isn't working as the car thinks it's on Deer Creek Rd. in Menlo Park and the maps are gray. There is no apparent way to force a GPS update, a reboot didn't fix. Service is being alerted.
2. TPMS error is displayed; DS thought it might be the tire pressure being on the high side during transport, but it didn't resolve when we let some air out to reach standard cold tire pressure. Neither 20 miles of driving, nor a reboot fixed it either. Service is being alerted.
3. This isn't an issue with the car, but rather the UMC: I have the dreaded UMC range problem where it must be held directly above the rear glass when pushing the button before the charge port will open. A new UMC is being provisioned to replace this one.�
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