teslamotorclub: Front-rear camera touchscreen parking protection switch kit reservations part 5

This implementation only makes sense. Even if you only have the standard rear view camera, you don't want backup lines over the image if you use it to look behind the car while driving forward. So the lines need to be activated in reverse only ...

--- Edit:

This was confirmed before in the Firmware 6.1 thread:

AlMc said: ?

Yes. Only present when you have the car in reverse.
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pilotSteve said: ?

If indeed Tesla engineering implemented parking lines enabled by REVERSE rather than camera-visible that would explain it. Good, correct, robust engineering..... and maybe some Tesla folks are forum readers and know about your cool camera switch artsci. Nice they didn't break it for us.
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Tesla knows about it for sure. For a while they were wondering about all the demand for rear cameras I think it's a tribute that they played ball.
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EBill said: ?

Do the white lines for the rear camera on version 6.1 show up on the front camera display?
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In my car (2013, non-sensor) the white lines do show up on the front camera, but only while in reverse. I don't have mine set up to automatically switch to rear camera when I put it into reverse. So, short answer--it doesn't know what camera is being used. I also tried switching from front to rear and back while in reverse, and the screen goes black (as we're used to) and the lines go away between cameras, but it comes right back up with image and guidelines with no problem. Interestingly, the "camera not found" text doesn't show when switching between cams while in reverse.
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Interesting. True that the system can't differentiate between the cameras which is why it works. The white lines must be triggered by the reverse signal.
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I can second the fact that for those of us who don't have the camera triggered to switch when going into reverse, the white lines show up when in reverse and the front camera on... it looks like it expects your about to launch into space, but I think that's just because I need to tilt my front camera down a bit.
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Couple of questions :
1-Do you ship to Canada?
2-Do you have a picture of the front camera mounting bracket? We don't have front plates here..
3-Does the mounting bracket work with the Autopilot equipped cars?

Thanks
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llavalle said: ?

Couple of questions :
1-Do you ship to Canada?
2-Do you have a picture of the front camera mounting bracket? We don't have front plates here..
3-Does the mounting bracket work with the Autopilot equipped cars?

Thanks
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OpenEVSE is the place to buy the camera switch PCB, bracket, and other parts. But you shouldn't wait as I don't think they have many left.

We originally made 100 sets, and once 75 were sold OpenEVSE bought the remainder. Likely these will never be made again.

If you don't have a front license plate you don't need the bracket, The front camera just mounts on the upper grille under the nose cone as in the photo below.

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I may have purchased the last available unit early this morning. The link above, which I used at the time, now returns a 404 page not found error.

I watched this video on the unit's operation: Tesla Model S front-rear camera switch demo - YouTube

Thanks to all of you who were involved in this, and especially to you, Rich, for everything you did to make it happen!

I do have a quick question or two about the unit's operation that aren't answered in the video.

If I haven't manually accessed the video icon, and just put the car in reverse, will the reverse camera view still pop up on its own as it does now? If so, will the "No Camera Available" delay be present or not?

I understand the "No Camera Available" delay occurs any time I switch between camera views. I'm just wondering how, if at all, having this system in place changes the behavior of what happens when there is no camera view on the display and the car is then put in reverse.

Thanks.
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Andyw2100 said: ?

I may have purchased the last available unit early this morning. The link above, which I used at the time, now returns a 404 page not found error.
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Yeah, looks like it. I wanted to order this morning but they are out of stock now :S meh.
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Andyw2100 said: ?

I may have purchased the last available unit early this morning. The link above, which I used at the time, now returns a 404 page not found error.

I watched this video on the unit's operation: Tesla Model S front-rear camera switch demo - YouTube

Thanks to all of you who were involved in this, and especially to you, Rich, for everything you did to make it happen!

I do have a quick question or two about the unit's operation that aren't answered in the video.

If I haven't manually accessed the video icon, and just put the car in reverse, will the reverse camera view still pop up on its own as it does now? If so, will the "No Camera Available" delay be present or not?

I understand the "No Camera Available" delay occurs any time I switch between camera views. I'm just wondering how, if at all, having this system in place changes the behavior of what happens when there is no camera view on the display and the car is then put in reverse.

Thanks.
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If the unit is properly wired up it always reverts to the rear camera when the car is placed in reverse. But if the default is set for the front camera (which I recommend) there will be a slight delay and a brief appearance of "No Camera Available" as it makes the switch to the rear camera. On the other hand if the rear camera is set for the default, the message does not appear, but you'll always have to use the remote or homelink command to switch to the front camera.

I suppose if there's sufficient demand we could alway make these again but to make it economical the minimum needs to be 100.
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artsci said: ?

If the unit is properly wired up it always reverts to the rear camera when the car is placed in reverse. But if the default is set for the front camera (which I recommend) there will be a slight delay and a brief appearance of "No Camera Available" as it makes the switch to the rear camera. On the other hand if the rear camera is set for the default, the message does not appear, but you'll always have to use the remote or homelink command to switch to the front camera.
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Thanks, Rich.

So just so that I am crystal clear on this, I'm going to restate this, as I now understand it:

All of the following assume correct installation (which I'm going to have done by professionals.)

--If set up with the rear camera as the default view (the mode you do not recommend) everything will function exactly as it does for me now, with no change, no delay, and I would never see that "No Camera Available" message when simply shifting into reverse. But in this mode, if I want access to the front camera, I would switch to the front camera using the remote or a programmed Homelink button to make the switch. So while parallel parking, I would have to use the remote or the Homelink button every time I wanted to change the view on the display from back to front, as the view would never change on its own simply because I was shifting between reverse and drive. Also, when I do want to simply see the front camera, I'll have to press the camera icon on the screen, but then will still need to use either the remote or the Homelink button, so utilizing the front camera becomes a two-step process instead of a one-step process.

--If the default view is set to front, when I put the car in reverse I will still get the back camera, but there will be that slight delay, and I will briefly see the "No Camera Available" indication on the screen. When parallel parking, the displays will automatically switch from the back display to the front display, as I shift from drive to reverse, each time with the slight delay and the "No Camera Available" message. When I just want to use the front camera to park, I'll only need to access the camera button on the screen, and the front camera will be immediately visible, with no delay or message. In this mode, the only reason I'd use the remote or the Homelink setting would be if I wanted to view the back camera while in drive.

Is the above a complete and accurate description?

And then one final question? Is this setup of which view I prefer as the default view a decision I need to make before installation, because the wiring is dependent upon it, or can I change the default view via the remote or some other way at any time?

Edit: I just looked at the manual which seems to make reference to buttons A and B on the remote, but in the video you talk about button D. It sounds like the button D in your video is functioning like the button A in the manual. Is that correct?
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If you're concerned about the small delay and the "No Camera Available" message, it's really not a big deal. It's very brief.

Having the rear camera as the default seems like a lot more hassle than the "No Camera Available" message and slight delay.

IMHO.

Either way, it's a great addition to "classic" Model Ss.
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HankLloydRight said: ?

If you're concerned about the small delay and the "No Camera Available" message, it's really not a big deal. It's very brief.

Having the rear camera as the default seems like a lot more hassle than the "No Camera Available" message and slight delay.

IMHO.

Either way, it's a great addition to "classic" Model Ss.
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Thanks.

I'm just trying to figure out which way I'd prefer to use it, as I rarely parallel park, and do, of course, put the car into reverse all the time. Even so, I'll probably go with the recommended setup.
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artsci said: ?

If the unit is properly wired up it always reverts to the rear camera when the car is placed in reverse. But if the default is set for the front camera (which I recommend) there will be a slight delay and a brief appearance of "No Camera Available" as it makes the switch to the rear camera. On the other hand if the rear camera is set for the default, the message does not appear, but you'll always have to use the remote or homelink command to switch to the front camera.

I suppose if there's sufficient demand we could alway make these again but to make it economical the minimum needs to be 100.
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Any chance the kit would be updated to use the newer forward looking camera if there was enough interest to get close to 100 new orders?
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Andyw2100 said: ?

... Is the above a complete and accurate description?

And then one final question? Is this setup of which view I prefer as the default view a decision I need to make before installation, because the wiring is dependent upon it, or can I change the default view via the remote or some other way at any time?

Edit: I just looked at the manual ...?
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If I read your question correctly, yes, that is an accurate description.

You do not need to decide which view you prefer prior to setup. You can change the default view via the remote or Homelink at any time.

I do not know the answer to your last question.
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Andyw2100 said: ?

Thanks.

I'm just trying to figure out which way I'd prefer to use it, as I rarely parallel park, and do, of course, put the car into reverse all the time. Even so, I'll probably go with the recommended setup.
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I leave the default to rear camera. At those rare times that I parallel park, I switch it to front. At that point it will still automatically go to the rear camera when the car is put in reverse.
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If I understand your question, you are referring to the front camera in the rear view mirror that is used for the autopilot functions. If that is correct, the answer is likely no, as that camera provides no video signal that is viewable on the touchscreen.
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santana338 said: ?

Any chance the kit would be updated to use the newer forward looking camera if there was enough interest to get close to 100 new orders?
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If I'm not mistaken the new forward looking camera sees over the hood and does not see obstacles down low. Correct me if I'm wrong.

If we got close to 100 solid orders (deposits) a new run could be done.
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artsci said: ?

If I'm not mistaken the new forward looking camera sees over the hood and does not see obstacles down low. Correct me if I'm wrong.

If we got close to 100 solid orders (deposits) an new run could be done.
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I was thinking about using an extra forward looking camera instead of the rear looking camera for this kit. I assume the cameras would be compatible?
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santana338 said: ?

Any chance the kit would be updated to use the newer forward looking camera if there was enough interest to get close to 100 new orders?
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swegman said: ?

If I understand your question, you are referring to the front camera in the rear view mirror that is used for the autopilot functions. If that is correct, the answer is likely no, as that camera provides no video signal that is viewable on the touchscreen.
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santana338 said: ?

I was thinking about using an extra forward looking camera instead of the rear looking camera for this kit. I assume the cameras would be compatible?
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swegman told you very clearly that the forward looking camera would not be compatible and why. The forward looking camera does not provide a video signal that would be viewable on the touchscreen. (I have no knowledge of this. I'm just restating what swegman posted. See above and upthread.)
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Andyw2100 said: ?

swegman told you very clearly that the forward looking camera would not be compatible and why. The forward looking camera does not provide a video signal that would be viewable on the touchscreen. (I have no knowledge of this. I'm just restating what swegman posted. See above and upthread.)
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I missed swegmans post earlier. Thanks for pointing it out.

I think swegman was thinking I meant to use the forward video camera in place. This is not what I am suggesting.

The existing kit uses a spare backup camera and puts it on the front of the car. The backup camera was the only camera available when the kit was developed. The downside of using the backup camera as a forward facing camera is the left-right reversal on the screen. If a new forward looking camera was used in place of the backup camera in the existing kit setup, I think this would solve the left-right reversal issue.

Even if the current front camera is not viewable on the main screen, I can't imagine the video signal for the forward camera would be any different from the rear camera.
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santana338 said: ?

I missed swegmans post earlier. Thanks for pointing it out.

I think swegman was thinking I meant to use the forward video camera in place. This is not what I am suggesting.

The existing kit uses a spare backup camera and puts it on the front of the car. The backup camera was the only camera available when the kit was developed. The downside of using the backup camera as a forward facing camera is the left-right reversal on the screen. If a new forward looking camera was used in place of the backup camera in the existing kit setup, I think this would solve the left-right reversal issue.

Even if the current front camera is not viewable on the main screen, I can't imagine the video signal for the forward camera would be any different from the rear camera.
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I think swegman understood exactly what you intended to do.

I think the front facing camera has no capability to output to the 17 inch display because Tesla apparently made that some really specific, proprietary format, which is why the only camera that can work to output a signal to the display is the rear-view camera. If there was currently any output from the front-facing camera to the display, you might be right that it could be used. But swegman has a lot of expertise when it comes to video stuff, so if he says it can't be used, I believe him. It makes sense since right now there is nothing that camera does that involves video being output to the 17 inch screen. In fact that camera doesn't output video anywhere.
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Andyw2100 said: ?

I think swegman understood exactly what you intended to do.

I think the front facing camera has no capability to output to the 17 inch display because Tesla apparently made that some really specific, proprietary format, which is why the only camera that can work to output a signal to the display is the rear-view camera. If there was currently any output from the front-facing camera to the display, you might be right that it could be used. But swegman has a lot of expertise when it comes to video stuff, so if he says it can't be used, I believe him. It makes sense since right now there is nothing that camera does that involves video being output to the 17 inch screen. In fact that camera doesn't output video anywhere.
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I'd love for swegman to chime and rule out the front facing camera with personal knowledge that it is not compatible. The Omnivision press release from 2012 hints that this camera would be ideal for all of Tesla's needs including back-up and autopilot functions:

Press Release from 2012

�Driven by both anticipated legal/regulatory requirements and consumer demand, rear-view cameras and other vision- and sensing-based driver assist systems are experiencing high adoption rates in next-generation vehicle designs around the world,� said Inayat Khajasha, senior product marketing manager at OmniVision. �The OV10630 is our flagship sensor, designed to meet the stringent requirements of this rapidly growing market. We believe that the selection of this sensor by a leading-edge manufacturer like Tesla Motors underscores our leadership role in shaping the future of automotive imaging.�
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Even if the front facing autopilot camera is accessible and/or compatible, what good does it do for anyone? It's high up on the windscreen, and it can't see the road directly in front of the car or any obstructions that you need to see when parking.

The only extra purpose it could serve is to act like a dashcam, but that's not in scope of this project/thread.
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santana338 said: ?

I'd love for swegman to chime and rule out the front facing camera with personal knowledge that it is not compatible. The Omnivision press release from 2012 hints that this camera would be ideal for all of Tesla's needs including back-up and autopilot functions:

Press Release from 2012

�Driven by both anticipated legal/regulatory requirements and consumer demand, rear-view cameras and other vision- and sensing-based driver assist systems are experiencing high adoption rates in next-generation vehicle designs around the world,� said Inayat Khajasha, senior product marketing manager at OmniVision. �The OV10630 is our flagship sensor, designed to meet the stringent requirements of this rapidly growing market. We believe that the selection of this sensor by a leading-edge manufacturer like Tesla Motors underscores our leadership role in shaping the future of automotive imaging.�
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Perhaps swegman will weigh in. But I'm not sure what part of what he said is confusing to you. I know you said you missed his post the first time, and you still seem to be having trouble understanding it. Here it is again:

swegman said: ?

If I understand your question, you are referring to the front camera in the rear view mirror that is used for the autopilot functions. If that is correct, the answer is likely no, as that camera provides no video signal that is viewable on the touchscreen.
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That seems pretty crystal clear to me. But perhaps he will indulge you and say it again.

As for the press release you quoted, what's your point? That's a press release about the backup camera. No one is questioning the backup camera's ability to display video on the 17-inch display.

HankLloydRight said: ?

Even if the front facing autopilot camera is accessible and/or compatible, what good does it do for anyone? It's high up on the windscreen, and it can't see the road directly in front of the car or any obstructions that you need to see when parking.

The only extra purpose it could serve is to act like a dashcam, but that's not in scope of this project/thread.
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santana338 is talking about buying extra front cameras instead of extra backup cameras, to solve the problem of the image being flipped. He wasn't talking about trying to use the existing one mounted where it is. The problem, however, is that as per swegman, it won't work, because the front camera can't ouput video to the 17-inch display.
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The Tesla backup camera is capable of displaying a non-reversed image by programming a bit in a specific register. The problem is Omnivision will not disclose to anyone how to reprogram the register unless they are a customer and sign an NDA. I found the specific register that selects whether or not the image is reversed, but neither me or anyone else has been successful to find out how to program it and with what equipment. It is also not clear from the limited materials we found whether this register needs to be set only once, or whether the register is set by the touchscreen each time the camera is powered up.

No other camera has been able to provide an image on the 17 inch touchscreen. Artsci even purchased an adapter that converts the signal from a conventional camera to the signal type required by the 17 inch touchscreen, but it did not work with the Tesla touchscreen. We may purchase a touchscreen to attempt to reverse engineer the camera input thereon (there most likely is a unique handshake between the screen and camera signal) in order to enable the use of a non-reversing camera, and/or to provide an input for, for example a dvd player, and maybe an output to enable recording the images from the front and rear cameras (and maybe side cameras) (i.e., think dash cam).

As others have noted, the camera in the rear view mirror is mounted too high to see obstructions when parking. Further, it is unlikely that you could purchase (from Tesla) the camera in the rear view mirror without purchasing the entire mirror assembly.

BTW, pictures of the Tesla touchscreen that have been posted on TMC shows it has two video inputs on its back panel. It would not surprise me if when a second compatible camera is connected to the second video input that the touchscreen pops up a window to select video 1 or video 2 to display. If we get a touchscreen (or someone wants to volunteer to pull their touchscreen out of the dash so that a cable can be connected to the input of video 2), we will look into this possibility.
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swegman said: ?

The Tesla backup camera is capable of displaying a non-reversed image by programming a bit in a specific register. The problem is Omnivision will not disclose to anyone how to reprogram the register unless they are a customer and sign an NDA. I found the specific register that selects whether or not the image is reversed, but neither me or anyone else has been successful to find out how to program it and with what equipment. It is also not clear from the limited materials we found whether this register needs to be set only once, or whether the register is set by the touchscreen each time the camera is powered up.

No other camera has been able to provide an image on the 17 inch touchscreen. Artsci even purchased an adapter that converts the signal from a conventional camera to the signal type required by the 17 inch touchscreen, but it did not work with the Tesla touchscreen. We may purchase a touchscreen to attempt to reverse engineer the camera input thereon (there most likely is a unique handshake between the screen and camera signal) in order to enable the use of a non-reversing camera, and/or to provide an input for, for example a dvd player, and maybe an output to enable recording the images from the front and rear cameras (and maybe side cameras) (i.e., think dash cam).

As others have noted, the camera in the rear view mirror is mounted too high to see obstructions when parking. Further, it is unlikely that you could purchase (from Tesla) the camera in the rear view mirror without purchasing the entire mirror assembly.

BTW, pictures of the Tesla touchscreen that have been posted on TMC shows it has two video inputs on its back panel. It would not surprise me if when a second compatible camera is connected to the second video input that the touchscreen pops up a window to select video 1 or video 2 to display. If we get a touchscreen (or someone wants to volunteer to pull their touchscreen out of the dash so that a cable can be connected to the input of video 2), we will look into this possibility.
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Swegman is completely right. No other camera than the Tesla camera will work and currently there's no interface that will work either. Remember, the switch is exactly that. As it's seeing the same signal, the touchscreen thinks the front camera is the rear camera.

The company I've contacted about creating the interface seemed to get cold feet when I sent them a number of photos of all of the connections and cables for the touchscreen. I haven't heard from them since (but I was out of the country for a week and will pursue them again now that I'm back). In the meantime I've put off buying the spare touchscreen until they confirm that they want to do the work.
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Got a question .. on the side of the box it says 12v, Gnd, Rear & Frnt... on the instructions it's 12v, gnd, sw1, sw2.

I know I connect the reverse light signal to "Rear" aka "Sw1" but.. what is Frnt or Sw2 for? Is it for anything? Just curious.. hehe..

Artsci & WhiteP85 Thanks for designing the kit!

Larry
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swegman said: ?

The Tesla backup camera is capable of displaying a non-reversed image by programming a bit in a specific register. The problem is Omnivision will not disclose to anyone how to reprogram the register unless they are a customer and sign an NDA. I found the specific register that selects whether or not the image is reversed, but neither me or anyone else has been successful to find out how to program it and with what equipment. It is also not clear from the limited materials we found whether this register needs to be set only once, or whether the register is set by the touchscreen each time the camera is powered up.

No other camera has been able to provide an image on the 17 inch touchscreen. Artsci even purchased an adapter that converts the signal from a conventional camera to the signal type required by the 17 inch touchscreen, but it did not work with the Tesla touchscreen. We may purchase a touchscreen to attempt to reverse engineer the camera input thereon (there most likely is a unique handshake between the screen and camera signal) in order to enable the use of a non-reversing camera, and/or to provide an input for, for example a dvd player, and maybe an output to enable recording the images from the front and rear cameras (and maybe side cameras) (i.e., think dash cam).

As others have noted, the camera in the rear view mirror is mounted too high to see obstructions when parking. Further, it is unlikely that you could purchase (from Tesla) the camera in the rear view mirror without purchasing the entire mirror assembly.

BTW, pictures of the Tesla touchscreen that have been posted on TMC shows it has two video inputs on its back panel. It would not surprise me if when a second compatible camera is connected to the second video input that the touchscreen pops up a window to select video 1 or video 2 to display. If we get a touchscreen (or someone wants to volunteer to pull their touchscreen out of the dash so that a cable can be connected to the input of video 2), we will look into this possibility.
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I have not been following this topic for a while so I apologize for not having the latest info.

I didn't realize the forward looking mirror was built into the rearview mirror. I was thinking last night that even if the forward facing camera was compatible, it would not be a good fit anyway because it is meant to be inside the car and not on the outside like the rear camera with its lens exposed to the elements. It would likely not survive long on a front license plate bracket.

Thanks for clearing that up for me swegman.
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LittoDevil said: ?

Got a question .. on the side of the box it says 12v, Gnd, Rear & Frnt... on the instructions it's 12v, gnd, sw1, sw2.

I know I connect the reverse light signal to "Rear" aka "Sw1" but.. what is Frnt or Sw2 for? Is it for anything? Just curious.. hehe..

Artsci & WhiteP85 Thanks for designing the kit!

Larry
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Front/SW2 is for nothing.
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Also, as artsci has mentioned way way up thread, the left/right reversal for the front camera is really no big deal.. when you're trying to not hit a parking barrier or other obstacles, it almost doesn't matter. And the wide angle lens is so wide angle, anything more than a few feet away is almost not even visible in any usable way.
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For those of you that have already installed this: roughly how long would you say it took? If you used a professional installer, do you happen to know how long it took them? Would you say this is a more complicated installation than a typical dashcam or radar detector installation?

I'm definitely not going to attempt this myself. I'm just trying to figure out who can do it for me.

Thanks!
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About 2 hours. The hardest part is the lifting of the floor carpet in the passenger seat area and finding the correct wire to connect to so that the cameras switch between the front and rear cameras based upon the car being in reverse or drive. Its a fairly easy install.
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swegman said: ?

About 2 hours. The hardest part is the lifting of the floor carpet in the passenger seat area and finding the correct wire to connect to so that the cameras switch between the front and rear cameras based upon the car being in reverse or drive. Its a fairly easy install.
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Thanks, swegman.

Anyone else care to weigh in with how long it took you, or how long it took your installer if you know?

I have a potential installer whom I definitely trust who works on high-end cars. I know they do excellent work. They regularly install stereo systems, dashcams, radar detectors, etc. I thought this would be right up their alley. Their main installer looked at some of the information briefly and expressed some concerns. He's going to look at it more thoroughly and get back to me. That's the reason I'm trying to find out if this is actually a very difficult installation, or if it should be relatively easy for a professional.

(I'd also be using the license plate mounting bracket, which I would think would make the installation at least a little easier than if I wanted to install the camera behind the grill.)

Also, am I correct that there is no soldering involved in the installation if I want to have the unit use switched power, so that it powers on and off when the Model S does? From reading the installation manual, that was my take on it, but I could be mistaken.

Thanks for the help and advice.
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FYI: I'm working on a mounting plate for the front camera. I haven't installed the prototype yet, but it looks very good. I'll post photos in a few days.
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DavidB said: ?

FYI: I'm working on a mounting plate for the front camera. I haven't installed the prototype yet, but it looks very good. I'll post photos is a few days.
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Great! Thanks!
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I'm in. Add me to the list
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Andyw2100 said: ?

I have a potential installer whom I definitely trust who works on high-end cars. I know they do excellent work. They regularly install stereo systems, dashcams, radar detectors, etc. I thought this would be right up their alley. Their main installer looked at some of the information briefly and expressed some concerns. He's going to look at it more thoroughly and get back to me. That's the reason I'm trying to find out if this is actually a very difficult installation, or if it should be relatively easy for a professional.
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I would call this a simple install for a professional.

At first, I took the kit to a local professional, who looked at it, and balked at running the camera cable up the side through the door, and instead, wanted to run it through the firewall and do it "his way". Well, I balked at that and just did it myself. I've done lots of radar and audio and other car electronics installs in the past, so this was really no big deal. As mentioned, the hardest part is getting under the pax footwell and finding the one wire in the connector to signal reverse.. and even that wasn't all that hard. And the new method of running that one wire in the hollow metal tube to the other side of the car is so simple. You probably don't need to solder anything, but you might have to strip and crimp a few connectors on some wires.

The instructions are very detailed and make it look like running the camera cable from the grill is somewhat complicated... but it's really easy! I also sent Rick the following suggestion on running the cable from the frunk to the cabin:

Also, I found (what I think is) a better way to run the cable into the dash area.. instead of coming in sideways next to the side panel door-jam area and through the weather stripping, I routed the cable up the A pillar a little bit (3-4 inches), and then ran it straight down beneath the rubber molding into the dash area. This had the benefit of not deforming the weatherstripping on the side so much because of the thicker cable coming through it. Also, you can't see any cables exposed this way at all.
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Also, for power, I used the OBDII port, but instead of soldering the OBD connector included with the kit, I got one of these: Amazon.com: Oem OBD-II OBD2 16Pin Male to Female Extension Cable Diagnostic Extender 100cm: Automotive and hacked off one end, found the two wires that were + and -, and used that for power. Real easy. (note: the wires inside the cable are very thin, so you or your installer might need to beef them up with some larger wire before connecting to the camera module).
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HankLloydRight said: ?

I would call this a simple install for a professional.
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Thanks for the detailed response. I'll definitely male sure to pass along your suggestion regarding the A-pillar routing to whomever winds up doing the install for me.

I'm wondering why you chose to go with the OBD connection for power. With that connection drawing power all the time, isn't that a negative? What were the benefits that outweighed the negative?
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Andyw2100 said: ?

I'm wondering why you chose to go with the OBD connection for power. With that connection drawing power all the time, isn't that a negative? What were the benefits that outweighed the negative?
Click to expand...

It's a very small amount of power, a few miliwatts maybe? Artsci might be able to chime in, I think it's mentioned in this thread somewhere. I am also pulling power from the same source for my dashcam with parking mode/motion sensor so it was easier to tap into that harness I created than switched power from the fusebox or tapping into a different power wire in the MS harness. It's also easier to remove the entire setup -- camera module, dashcam, OBDII plug, etc without leaving a trace or cutting or resplicing anything.

I don't think the drain on the batter amounts to enough to worry about. Also, it's being pulled from the 12v battery anyway and not the traction pack. Sure, the 12V might need to be recharged slightly more often, but again, it's such a small draw, it can't really account for all that much. Though I did install a switch in the OBDII port area in case I need to shut them both down for some extended period of time or in the rare case I might need to limit vampire drain, but I really can't think of any. It's not like I leave my car parked at the airport for extended periods of time (I take my ICE to the airport for that).
�

We're talking about milliamps here, not enough to even give a thought. Plus in the final install instructions we're tapping into switched power that's only on when one's butt is in the driver's seat.
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HankLloydRight said: ?

It's a very small amount of power, a few miliwatts maybe? Artsci might be able to chime in, I think it's mentioned in this thread somewhere. I am also pulling power from the same source for my dashcam with parking mode/motion sensor so it was easier to tap into that harness I created than switched power from the fusebox or tapping into a different power wire in the MS harness. It's also easier to remove the entire setup -- camera module, dashcam, OBDII plug, etc without leaving a trace or cutting or resplicing anything.

I don't think the drain on the batter amounts to enough to worry about. Also, it's being pulled from the 12v battery anyway and not the traction pack. Sure, the 12V might need to be recharged slightly more often, but again, it's such a small draw, it can't really account for all that much. Though I did install a switch in the OBDII port area in case I need to shut them both down for some extended period of time or in the rare case I might need to limit vampire drain, but I really can't think of any. It's not like I leave my car parked at the airport for extended periods of time (I take my ICE to the airport for that).
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I had read somewhere in this thread that someone had a problem with the camera overheating when left out in the sun all day, and it turned out it was also powered on, because they were powering from the OBD port. I think I also saw after that that ArtSci actually changed his recommendation from using either installation method, to just recommending the switched power. But obviously if you're not having any issues, that's not a concern.

- - - Updated - - -

artsci said: ?

We're talking about milliamps here, not enough to even give a thought. Plus in the final install instructions we're tapping into switched power that's only on when one's butt is in the driver's seat.
Click to expand...

I had downloaded a PDF file from the OPENEV Store site where I purchased the unit, but seeing the above, I'm thinking that must not be the final instructions, as that version still talked about soldering a connection to the OBD port as an option. Where would I find a link to the final install instructions? I'd like to send that to the possible installer who is considering taking on the job, so he can better evaluate what needs to be done.

Thanks!
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Andyw2100 said: ?

Thanks.

I had read somewhere in this thread that someone had a problem with the camera overheating when left out in the sun all day, and it turned out it was also powered on, because they were powering from the OBD port.
Click to expand...

That probably has more to do with being in the sun all day then being on unswitched power.
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HankLloydRight said: ?

That probably has more to do with being in the sun all day then being on unswitched power.
Click to expand...

Can confirm. I haven't had any issues since Fall of last year and I'm still plugged into ODBE port. During summer it would not work for the first 10 minutes of my drive everyday after work. I need to try to figure something out before it gets hot here again.
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I got the switch and the camera, but didn't realize cables were extra and apparently there are reliability issues:
Amazon.com: Superbat The Tesla Front Camera cable kit sets Fakra female straight 4pole high quanlity Dacar 535 cable: Computers Accessories

Does anyone have a source for reliable cables, both the long ones and the short ones? Thanks
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DavidB said: ?

FYI: I'm working on a mounting plate for the front camera. ... I'll post photos in a few days.
Click to expand...

The bumper is removed in these photos (I'm doing other work as well), but here is the front camera & mounting plate:

This is a view looking almost straight into the lower grill, which few would ever do. That is why the etching doesn't align with the grill work.

This shot is looking downward at the camera, and the etched work lines up with the grill.

I will make several variations of this mounting plate available (price not determined yet) for either the top or lower grill, and either the center or offset to make room for a license plate.

And yes, in these close up shots, the clear bra looks ugly. One of my upcoming projects will be to get my car color corrected & re-coated.
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Does anyone have the final version of the installation manual?

ArtSci no longer has it, but would like to have it again, and I said that if I managed to obtain one, of course I'd make sure to get a copy to him. The .PDF file that was most recently on the OpenEV Store site is not the most recent version.

ArtSci says of the most recent version: "A key change was the threading of the camera cable into the cockpit, which in the latest version was through the gap between the driver's side fender and the windshield frame (with photos). Another was the threading of the reverse signal connection from the passenger side behind the dashboard. In the latest version the wire is threaded through the long hollow tube that runs the entire length of the dashboard."

Please let me know either by posting here or by private message if you prefer if you have a copy of this version.

Thanks!
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Andyw2100 said: ?

Does anyone have the final version of the installation manual?

ArtSci no longer has it, but would like to have it again, and I said that if I managed to obtain one, of course I'd make sure to get a copy to him. The .PDF file that was most recently on the OpenEV Store site is not the most recent version.

ArtSci says of the most recent version: "A key change was the threading of the camera cable into the cockpit, which in the latest version was through the gap between the driver's side fender and the windshield frame (with photos). Another was the threading of the reverse signal connection from the passenger side behind the dashboard. In the latest version the wire is threaded through the long hollow tube that runs the entire length of the dashboard."

Please let me know either by posting here or by private message if you prefer if you have a copy of this version.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, please, if anyone saved a copy, let Andyw2100 know. I saved it to Dropbox and lost it all when I was trying to clean out old files. Regrettably I did not save it to another place.
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Andyw2100 said: ?

Does anyone have the final version of the installation manual?
Click to expand...

Here are the two most recent files I have: One was the 21 July 2014 version with reduced file size (compressed graphics) dated 28 Jul 2014, 17:38, a second an update that describes the easier cable routing from the frunk to the cabin via the gap in the fender trim, dated 2 Aug 2014, 16:18 (these are the PDF metadata, not the download dates.) The update still references the Chinese cables that proved to be problematic. The OEM cables from Tesla that Rick bought for us work fine, so those are the one's to get.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xlkz3la1rjbdm8w/Camera%20kit%20instructions%2C%20smaller%20file.pdf?dl=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2lpcfyxa27zu52u/Urgent%20camera%20swith%20install%20update.pdf?dl=1
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Klaus said: ?

Here are the two most recent files I have: One was the 21 July 2014 version with reduced file size (compressed graphics) dated 28 Jul 2014, 17:38, a second an update that describes the easier cable routing from the frunk to the cabin via the gap in the fender trim, dated 2 Aug 2014, 16:18 (these are the PDF metadata, not the download dates.) The update still references the Chinese cables that proved to be problematic. The OEM cables from Tesla that Rick bought for us work fine, so those are the one's to get.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xlkz3la1rjbdm8w/Camera%20kit%20instructions%2C%20smaller%20file.pdf?dl=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2lpcfyxa27zu52u/Urgent%20camera%20swith%20install%20update.pdf?dl=1
Click to expand...

Thanks so much Klaus. Those two files are ones I didn't have and they provide some valuable updates. I think there was an even later version of the full instructions that addressed threading of the reverse signal wire through the tube behind the dash.
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Klaus said: ?

Here are the two most recent files I have: One was the 21 July 2014 version with reduced file size (compressed graphics) dated 28 Jul 2014, 17:38, a second an update that describes the easier cable routing from the frunk to the cabin via the gap in the fender trim, dated 2 Aug 2014, 16:18 (these are the PDF metadata, not the download dates.) The update still references the Chinese cables that proved to be problematic. The OEM cables from Tesla that Rick bought for us work fine, so those are the one's to get.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xlkz3la1rjbdm8w/Camera%20kit%20instructions%2C%20smaller%20file.pdf?dl=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2lpcfyxa27zu52u/Urgent%20camera%20swith%20install%20update.pdf?dl=1
Click to expand...

Well, that was fast!

Thanks, very, very much! That definitely appears to be a later version than the one I had. ArtSci--can you confirm that this is, in fact, the "last" version that you were in search of?

Thanks again, Klaus!

Edit: Whoops! I guess I should have refreshed before posting.

- - - Updated - - -

DavidB said: ?

The bumper is removed in these photos (I'm doing other work as well), but here is the front camera & mounting plate:
Click to expand...

Looks interesting.

What is the plate made out of? Will one of your variations include a smaller plate, or does it need to be that large to hold the camera securely in place?
�

The plate is made out of a black plastic--I'll get back to you with the specific type. The size of the plate is designed to fit over the hole in Tesla's new grill (re-purposing what is intended for the autopilot's forward radar). If you want to use the older grill, or use a different location with the newer grill, the plate can be smaller but a hole will have to be cut in the grill to fit the camera behind the plate. I would like some feedback about preferred placement; for those wanting it offset because they have the license plate in the center, how far to one side do you need it?

Steps for mounting this plate:
1) Remove bumper, taking care to detach wiring
2) Remove grill from bumper
3a) If you use Tesla's new grill (as shown in the pictures), the grill does not need any modification. This option is not feasible if you have the autopilot package.
3b) If you use the old grill or for all other placements, cut a hole in the grill to fit both the camera & the included bracket. Dimensions for the hole & a cardboard guide will be included. Note that the exact location of the plate must be predetermined: The grill is curved and the dimensions for the plate are different for every location.
4) Notch bumper to make room for the plate
5) Remove existing mounting bracket on the camera
6) Install camera onto the plate with the included bracket & fit the plate onto the grill
7) Reattach grill onto the bumper. This step will lock the plate in place.
8) Make sure all wires are attached and reinstall the bumper

Note that the camera fits almost flush with the grill, and that a license plate might severely limit the camera's field of view.
�

artsci said: ?

Thanks so much Klaus. Those two files are ones I didn't have and they provide some valuable updates. I think there was an even later version of the full instructions that addressed threading of the reverse signal wire through the tube behind the dash.
Click to expand...

Artsci might be referring to this version, dated 8/8/2014. https://db.tt/bkxykVic
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DavidB said: ?

The plate is made out of a black plastic--I'll get back to you with the specific type. The size of the plate is designed fit over the hole in Tesla's new grill (re-purposing what is intended for the autopilot's forward radar). If you want to use the older grill, or use a different location with the newer grill, the plate can be smaller but a hole will have to be cut in the grill to fit the camera behind the plate. I would like some feedback about preferred placement; for those wanting it offset because they have the license plate in the center, how far to one side do you need it?

Steps for mounting this plate:
1) Remove bumper, taking care to detach wiring
2) Remove grill from bumper
3a) If you use Tesla's new grill (as shown in the pictures), the grill does not need any modification. This option is not feasible if you have the autopilot package.
3b) If you use the old grill or for all other placements, cut a hole in the grill to fit both the camera & the included bracket. Dimensions for the hole & a cardboard guide will be included. Note that the exact location of the plate must be predetermined: The grill is curved and the dimensions for the plate are different for every location.
4) Notch bumper to make room for the plate
5) Remove existing mounting bracket on the camera
6) Install camera onto the plate with the included bracket & fit the plate onto the grill
7) Reattach grill onto the bumper. This step will lock the plate in place.
8) Make sure all wires are attached and reinstall the bumper
Click to expand...

I appreciate the info. I'm definitely going to go with a simpler approach, though. I'm sure there are plenty of people that will appreciate what you're doing!

- - - Updated - - -

kirkp said: ?

Artsci might be referring to this version, dated 8/8/2014. https://db.tt/bkxykVic
Click to expand...

That has got to be it! It has the part about the hollow tube behind the dash that ArtSci mentioned.

Thanks very much!
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Andyw2100 said: ?

I appreciate the info. I'm definitely going to go with a simpler approach, though. I'm sure there are plenty of people that will appreciate what you're doing!
Click to expand...

That is fine--what I've done is a labor of love, and I do not expect enough volume to pay for my expenses, much less make a profit.

However, I do want to point out that none of the steps are difficult. The bumper is surprisingly light weight and can be handled by one person. Because of the bulky size, it helps to have one person hold the bumper and another person disconnect/connect wires and bolt the bumper in place.
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kirkp said: ?

Artsci might be referring to this version, dated 8/8/2014. https://db.tt/bkxykVic
Click to expand...

I found this version also on my iPad to use it during the installation, it hadn't made it to my Mac. Thanks for finding it.
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DavidB said: ?

FYI: I'm working on a mounting plate for the front camera. I haven't installed the prototype yet, but it looks very good. I'll post photos in a few days.
Click to expand...

Nice work! Does this mount require the original mounting points on the camera (as many of us have cut them off)?

Also, can you post a shot of the bracket with the bumper back on the car. Seems that it will look much different when the grill is on and it's dark behind it. Should blend in quite well.

Is there any way to point the camera down more? It seems like this would result in it being difficult to gauge how close you are. I have mine pointed slightly down and when the curb is at the bottom of my screen I know I'm about 8" away.
�

PM sent.
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just got my front camera installed at audio symphony in san francisco. they did a great job and it's working well. if other owners need any upgrades, they are a good installer.
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Shakattk said: ?

just got my front camera installed at audio symphony in san francisco. they did a great job and it's working well. if other owners need any upgrades, they are a good installer.
Click to expand...

Did they encounter any difficulties? Do you know about how long it took them?

Thanks!
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Auto Symphony is a good shop, IMHO
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So I hear from artsci that there won't be any more orders. Is there anyone who didn't complete their installation and would like to sell theirs to me?
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hiphenry said: ?

So I hear from artsci that there won't be any more orders. Is there anyone who didn't complete their installation and would like to sell theirs to me?
Click to expand...

Sent you a PM
�

Has anyone else seen their front camera going blank due to rain?

Twice now I've had my front camera blank out for a day or two after a rain storm. In both cases, it eventually returned to normal.

I assumed these cameras were waterproof, but either they aren't, or I have a defective camera.

What would people suggest as a good way to waterproof the front camera without affecting the image?
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HankLloydRight said: ?

Has anyone else seen their front camera going blank due to rain?

Twice now I've had my front camera blank out for a day or two after a rain storm. In both cases, it eventually returned to normal.

I assumed these cameras were waterproof, but either they aren't, or I have a defective camera.

What would people suggest as a good way to waterproof the front camera without affecting the image?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the cameras aren't sealed as well as one would hope. The camera is housed by two molded pieces, a front & a back, held together by screws on the back, and sealed by a very small gasket:

I have experienced water intrusion in both the original camera and in the camera I installed in the front. I've found that adding a very fine bead of sealant, in addition to the gasket, works far better than the just the gasket alone.
�

So a bead of silicone around the seam where the two halves meet?
�

Yes, that's what worked for me! A very small bead of silicone. I actually used a syringe to get the tiny bead.
�

I don't have a syringe handy, so I think I'm just going to use my finger and slather on the silicone around the thing.

�

I just noticed today that when switching between the front and rear camera, the screen no longer displays the "Camera Unavailable" message. Instead there is a short pause while the screen is black, and then the correct view just comes up on the display. I made a short (low resolution) video to demonstrate this:

I currently have firmware version 6.2.2.4.250 on my P85D. While it's possible that this behavior started with an earlier version of the firmware, my best guess is that it did not.

I'm wondering both how and why this behavior changed.

Anyone think this could be an indication that Model X is going to use both front and rear cameras?

In any case, I'm pretty happy with this change, as I never cared much for the "Camera Unavailable" screen.
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Andyw2100 said: ?

In any case, I'm pretty happy with this change, as I never cared much for the "Camera Unavailable" screen.
Click to expand...

I've actually noticed both behaviors.. sometimes it says "Camera Unavailable" and sometimes it's just blank. No rhyme or reason why it's on or the other.

Also, if the MX has a front parking camera, I suspect they'll use a switching device that's more instantaneous that this kit, so there wouldn't be a blank pause between cameras.
�

I finally got my front camera kit installed today. (It's a long story) Anyway, it works great but the key fob only works with button "D". Is this normal? It would be more convenient if it worked with one of the larger buttons.
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Thumper said: ?

I finally got my front camera kit installed today. (It's a long story) Anyway, it works great but the key fob only works with button "D". Is this normal? It would be more convenient if it worked with one of the larger buttons.
Click to expand...

It's most convenient to program the button into Homelink. Then you don't need the remote at all. I actually had three things already programmed into Homelink, but decided that having the front camera switch in Homelink was more important to me than having the third one.

Edit: And to directly answer your question, I actually don't remember, since I don't use it, but I think yes, it probably is normal.
�

Hi Art

Fully interested in obtaining a couple of front camera kits. Are these still available? I have a friend who has your camera in his Model S and love it!
Thank you
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sgiambastiani said: ?

Hi Art

Fully interested in obtaining a couple of front camera kits. Are these still available? I have a friend who has your camera in his Model S and love it!
Thank you
Click to expand...

The kits are no longer available but some buyers never installed theirs. I'd post something to see if you can get one. If you do let me know and I'll send you the install instructions.
�

The front camera kit is the best mod I've done to my car by far!!

That's why I jumped on the Appliqu� project because you never know how many more are going to be made.

Thanks Artsci, Danal, WhiteP85 and anyone else involved in these awesome projects.
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artsci said: ?

The kits are no longer available but some buyers never installed theirs. I'd post something to see if you can get one. If you do let me know and I'll send you the install instructions.
Click to expand...

I agree with Hank--this mod was terrific. I still use it regularly, 2 years later. How many orders would you need to get again to make it worth another run?
�

I have a never-installed kit. The white box & remotes, plus the separately ordered cable from China. The installation process was not for me. PM me an offer!
�

I have complete kit - never installed. PM with offer.
�

Apparently the installer that installed my front camera switch for me tapped into the main wiring harness. I discovered this just now when I received a call from the service center manager where my car is having it's first annual service performed. I had asked them to check into a water leakage issue, which turns out to be due to how the installer ran the cables.

I'm looking at perhaps $2000 or more in parts and labor to take care of this, as there is already corrosion of the wiring harness. Because the wiring harness should never have been tapped into in the first place, if I don't replace it, Tesla would void the warranty on the 12V system components.

I am livid.

I know the installer is not going to "make this right", and I'm going to have to sue him in small claims court, which is going to be a royal pain, since he is a couple of hours away.

And after it's all said and done, the front camera switch won't be installed, as Tesla can't install it, since it's third party.
�

That's a shame. That's one of the reasons my switch is sitting on a shelf, still. I haven't had time to install it, and I don't know anyone trustworthy enough to do it.

I thought Rick's instructions were pretty straightforward. Where did your installer tap the harness and how did it lead to water intrusion? Might be helpful information for anyone yet to install one of these.
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Gizmotoy said: ?

That's a shame. That's one of the reasons my switch is sitting on a shelf, still. I haven't had time to install it, and I don't know anyone trustworthy enough to do it.

I thought Rick's instructions were pretty straightforward. Where did your installer tap the harness and how did it lead to water intrusion? Might be helpful information for anyone yet to install one of these.
Click to expand...

I don't know the details of where he tapped the harness.

I believe the water intrusion is related to how he routed the cables through the side of the door, which I thought he actually did as per the instructions, but perhaps he did it poorly.

Any installer should know enough not to tap into the wiring harness, right? Isn't that something that should just never be done, under any circumstances?

In other words, is there any possible way I don't win in small claims court?
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Gizmotoy said: ?

That's a shame. That's one of the reasons my switch is sitting on a shelf, still. I haven't had time to install it, and I don't know anyone trustworthy enough to do it.

I thought Rick's instructions were pretty straightforward. Where did your installer tap the harness and how did it lead to water intrusion? Might be helpful information for anyone yet to install one of these.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'd also really like to know where he tapped the main harness (photos?) I used the OBDII port for power to the switch (as in the directions) as well as my dashcam. I could probably uninstall the entire thing from behind the dash in 30 minutes if I needed to (which I just might do if/when I get the LTE upgrade installed).

I had taken the kit to a local professional auto stereo shop for a quote, and when they looked at the directions, they decided that instead of doing it that way (routing the cables through the door frame and A pillar), they insisted on going through the firewall. They would not budge on this, so I collected up everything and installed it myself.

I like this kit so much I'm thinking of buying one of these other kits for sale just in case I buy another Model S (way way) down the road.
�

Andyw2100 said: ?

Any installer should know enough not to tap into the wiring harness, right? Isn't that something that should just never be done, under any circumstances?
In other words, is there any possible way I don't win in small claims court?
Click to expand...

I mean, the instructions specifically suggest you tap a wiring harness. I don't know if this is the "Main wiring harness" in Tesla-speak, but yes, tapping the harness isn't a completely boneheaded thing to do. (See "Choosing your 12V Power Source": Tesla Model S Front Camera Touchscreen Switch Kit - TESLARATI.com )

HOWEVER, the tap is in the kickplate. So you'd need a double failure to get what they're describing. Routing the camera wire through the body must have somehow allowed water into the cabin, and that water must have leaked down to where the tap was performed. Hard to speculate without details, but it seems pretty unlikely.

Unless the water is just coming in and they happened to see the tap and decided that was a good enough reason to throw their hand up, which is certainly possible.

HankLloydRight said: ?

I like this kit so much I'm thinking of buying one of these other kits for sale just in case I buy another Model S (way way) down the road.
Click to expand...

If you decide you want one let me know and I'll give you a good price. Mine's posted over on the for sale forum, along with the prototype camera back parts I developed.
�

I have cables running through the door frame as well. I use those for my radar detector. I haven't seen any water intrusion, nor have I heard anyone else.
As far as liability is concerned, I think you would have to prove that he did something wrong that led to this. Maybe he did by tapping in the wrong location, causing the leak to track into the main harness? Ugh. So sorry.
�

HankLloydRight said: ?

I had taken the kit to a local professional auto stereo shop for a quote, and when they looked at the directions, they decided that instead of doing it that way (routing the cables through the door frame and A pillar), they insisted on going through the firewall. They would not budge on this, so I collected up everything and installed it myself.
Click to expand...

I haven't spoken to the service manager again yet, but during the one conversation I had with him earlier, he agreed with your local professional. He sounded appalled that my guy had routed the cable around the outside of the car, and said he should have just gone through a grommet in the firewall.

I had given my guy your proposed improvement to the install guide, which included the bit about going up the A pillar, but I don't think that's what he did. I don't think he properly did what was in the install guide either, as no one else has written about leaking cars.
�

Gizmotoy said: ?

I mean, the instructions specifically suggest you tap a wiring harness. I don't know if this is the "Main wiring harness" in Tesla-speak, but yes, tapping the harness isn't a completely boneheaded thing to do. (See "Choosing your 12V Power Source": Tesla Model S Front Camera Touchscreen Switch Kit - TESLARATI.com )
Click to expand...

Am I correct that the first of the two options below, from the Teslarati article referenced, would be tapping into the wiring harness, but the second would not be?

--
--Using a PosiTap tap power from the yellow wire with purple stripe in one of the three wire bundles behind the driver�s side kick panel. This method is highly recommended, as the fuse tap solution below requires running a long lead from the #3 fuse box through the fender channel with the camera cable into the driver�s door jamb area.

--Using an Add-a-Fuse and a 5 amp mini fuse, tap fuse #75 in fuse box #3.
--
�

Is this what I would need to get power from the fuse box, as per the second option in the post above?

Amazon.com : HitCar Car Vehicle Circuit Blade Style ATM APS ATT Low Profile Mini Fuse Holder Fuse Tap With 5AMP Fuse (Mini Size) : Electronics

The Teslarati post mentions "mini fuse", and the chart in the product description shows three size options--mini, small, and medium. I just want to make sure that "mini" is really correct.

I don't know yet what the outcome is going to be, but I figure if I order one of these there is a chance that I may be able to hook it up myself when I get the car back, if the wires are left in the right places for me, etc. In the very least, if I hand this thing to an installer and say "use it" that should prevent him from tapping into the wiring harness again, and me repeating the process I'm going through now.

Thanks.
�

I don't know what "Small" is on that Amazon page. Wikipedia has a pretty good diagram of the different options ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive) ). You do need the "mini" variety.

Note that this installation type will leave your harness intact, but you'll have to modify (or remove) your fuse box cover. You can't snake the wire out of the box without drilling a hole or otherwise devising a method to get the wire out of the fusebox. You're trading one modification for another, though certainly the cover is cheaper to replace than the $2k you've apparently been stuck with.
�

Gizmotoy said: ?

I don't know what "Small" is on that Amazon page. Wikipedia has a pretty good diagram of the different options ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive) ). You do need the "mini" variety.

Note that this installation type will leave your harness intact, but you'll have to modify (or remove) your fuse box cover. You can't snake the wire out of the box without drilling a hole or otherwise devising a method to get the wire out of the fusebox. You're trading one modification for another, though certainly the cover is cheaper to replace than the $2k you've apparently been stuck with.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I just found out the same guy also had tapped the same spot, apparently for no good reason, for my radar detector installation, which he had done back when I had my Opticoat Pro done when I first took delivery of the car.

So I think the tap a fuse option above may be out, as now I'm going to be looking for power in two places, and will definitely need some sort of professional involved. I just don't know (obviously) of any decent ones anywhere near me.

I'm wondering about the possibility of getting power for both the front camera switch and the radar detector from the OBD connector, and having some sort of on/off switch wired in, so that I could kill power to both of them when leaving the car. I really don't like the idea of having to turn something on and off, but I'm not sure what my other options are.

I guess another option might be two "tap a fuse" type connections--one for the front camera switch and one for the radar detector.

I had read about needing to make a hole in the fuse box cover for the wire. That seemed like a pretty small issue. Is there a concern with moisture getting in there as well? If so, after the hole is made, and the wires run, would there be any reason the hole couldn't be sealed up with some sort of silicone sealant?

Clearly I know very little about this. I trusted the last guy, and that was a mistake. I want to be well-informed enough not to allow anyone to mess things up for me again.

Thanks!
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I would definitely recommend using the OBDII port for power. I use it for my front camera switch, and it's powered 24x7 without any problems (my dashcam is also on this same power source).

My hard-wired radar detector is on a switched circuit (I think the USB power in the pax footwell), so that does go on and off with the car.
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HankLloydRight said: ?

I would definitely recommend using the OBDII port for power. I use it for my front camera switch, and it's powered 24x7 without any problems (my dashcam is also on this same power source).

My hard-wired radar detector is on a switched circuit (I think the USB power in the pax footwell), so that does go on and off with the car.
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Thanks.

When you say your radar detector is on that switched circuit, do you mean it's tapped into the wiring harness on the passenger side? Because I don't want to have any more "tapping into anything" and risk a repeat of this.

Is there any reason the add a fuse above couldn't be used to power the radar detector? Or is there an even better switched source, that could be accessed without risk of doing anything that would upset Tesla?

I guess if there isn't a good, safe switched option, I could always have whomever is going to do this use the OBD port for both, and just turn the radar detector on and off manually.
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While the switched tap into the USB lines is technically a "harness" it's just a bundle of 4 wires going to the UBS ports, so it's pretty isolated from other larger "real" harnesses like in the driver's side kick-plate. If something goes wrong, I think the most you could mess up are the USB ports.

As for the "add a fuse" solutions, I just didn't find it necessary to use the fuse box in the frunk and tap a fuse and then run a wire into the cabin. This way, there's no running wires through the firewall or the weatherstripping for power.

But if you're looking for a switched power source that doesn't require tapping, I guess the fuse box is the only option I know of. But that doesn't mean Tesla wouldn't think that tapping the fuse box doesn't void the warranty.
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HankLloydRight said: ?

While the switched tap into the USB lines is technically a "harness" it's just a bundle of 4 wires going to the UBS ports, so it's pretty isolated from other larger "real" harnesses like in the driver's side kick-plate. If something goes wrong, I think the most you could mess up are the USB ports.

As for the "add a fuse" solutions, I just didn't find it necessary to use the fuse box in the frunk and tap a fuse and then run a wire into the cabin. This way, there's no running wires through the firewall or the weatherstripping for power.

But if you're looking for a switched power source that doesn't require tapping, I guess the fuse box is the only option I know of. But that doesn't mean Tesla wouldn't think that tapping the fuse box doesn't void the warranty.
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Thanks!

Whatever I do next is going to be with Tesla's blessing! I'm not going to take a chance of winding up in this situation again.

Since the service manager is suggesting that the cable for the front camera switch go through a grommet in the firewall anyway, it might make the most sense to just get power from a fuse box there, but again, only if Tesla is cool with it. I guess worst case scenario, I power both items from the OBDII port, and just manually turn the radar detector on and off, since I know Tesla can't have a problem with anything wired to the OBDII port. Actually now that I've written that, do we know that?

Thanks again!
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HankLloydRight said: ?

But if you're looking for a switched power source that doesn't require tapping, I guess the fuse box is the only option I know of. But that doesn't mean Tesla wouldn't think that tapping the fuse box doesn't void the warranty.
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Electrically, I strongly suspect Tesla would indicate that adding a fuse to the fuse box is the "correct" solution. It's certainly the safest, as stripping or tapping wires always carries risk of damage. However, as noted, that necessitates running a wire back into the cabin, which I'm sure they'll be less pleased about. No matter what you do, they're not going to be 100% happy with it. The USB ports sound like a decent option as well: if they're for sure on a sub-harness, the damage is contained to a small area. If it's just four wires that ultimately trace directly back into the main harness without a connector in between, though, you haven't really gained anything except maybe less likelihood of getting wet.
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I found the USB harness to be easily accessible in the cabin, switched, and easy to tap and provide power to many different devices, and like you said, essentially zero chance of getting wet.
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Please add me to the list if it's not too late please.
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If there are any of the original kits out there that were never installed and you would like to sell, please send me a PM.

Thanks.
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Do these still happen to be available to order? I just purchased a certified pre-owned vehicle and really would like this feature when parking to avoid hitting my front bumper. I appreciate any information or advice you or others on this forum could share and thanks in advance for your help!
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carlmerritt1 said: ?

Do these still happen to be available to order? I just purchased a certified pre-owned vehicle and really would like this feature when parking to avoid hitting my front bumper. I appreciate any information or advice you or others on this forum could share and thanks in advance for your help!
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Welcome to the forums.

A week or two ago artsci posted in another thread that he had found one, and wanted to sell it. Other people have made similar posts in this thread in the past several months about having one they never installed. You may want to check with some of them, or with artsci.

Edit: Here's the link to the post from artsci that I was referring to--

Front/Rear Camera Touchscreen Switch Kit, Camera and Cables - SOLD
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Andyw2100 said: ?

Welcome to the forums.

A week or two ago artsci posted in another thread that he had found one, and wanted to sell it. Other people have made similar posts in this thread in the past several months about having one they never installed. You may want to check with some of them, or with artsci.

Edit: Here's the link to the post from artsci that I was referring to--

Front/Rear Camera Touchscreen Switch Kit, Camera and Cables - SOLD
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A week ago I sold the spare I accidentally found. But there may be owners who never installed theirs. I know of one but he needs to offer it himself, which probably won't happen as he's still intending to do the install.
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Finished installing a kit I picked up from a user who never installed and have to say this is the best mod for a S and can't believe there are not 60k of these kits out there! My car has no parking sensors and I was worried about curbing it, however after doing an overnight test drive I found that the sensors were almost useless when it came to curbs when I stopped with 18 inches to spare on the screen but was 1" from hitting the curb when I exited the car. This kit makes all those worries go away and would be great even on cars with sensors!
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artsci said: ?

We�re now making a list of pre-order reservations for the front-rear camera touchscreen switch kit. Assuming 100 orders are received, the cost of the kit will be $195.00, exclusive of the Tesla camera and the cable kit. Lower volume will result in a higher price.

As the kit could not have been successfully developed without the expertise and advice of members and posters of this web site, ten percent of the selling price will be provided as a commission for the support of Tesla Motors Club. The kit has evolved over about a six-month period. See this thread for a very complete discussion of the front camera concept and its creation.

The kit will include the switch itself, mounted in a plastic case, with all components to make it operational, including a wireless control that can be operated by Homelink and/or an included remote control. The kit also includes an OBDII connector for making the 12v and ground connections to the switch.

With a Tesla rear camera mounted in the front of the car, the switch will make it possible to switch from rear to front view when parking your Model S. The front view will have the same wide angle of sight as the rear camera and the same high-definition resolution. With a camera mounted on the front of the car the switch will obviate the need for front parking sensors, as you will be able to see on the touchscreen any obstacles that might damage your bumper or any other part of the front of your Model S. The kit is ideal for owners who bought cars prior to the time the Tesla parking sensors were available and those who would like to have an extra measure of protection beyond parking sensors.

To make this modification you will need to purchase separately a rear camera from Tesla, part #1006773-00-E. Call your service center to order the camera. The cost is about $350.

You will also need a cable set to connect the cameras. The cable set will soon be available from a Chinese supplier and will include three cables: one long cable for connecting the front camera to the switch and two short cables for connecting the rear camera to the switch and the switch to the touchscreen cable. As soon as the cable kit is ready for purchase we will notify everyone on the pre-order list. We expect the cable kit to cost about $40.

Including the cost of the kit, the camera, and the cable kit, front and rear touch screen-based parking protection will be available for under $600.

The camera switch mounts behind the driver�s-side kick panel, where the cables for making the connections to the rear camera, front camera, and touchscreen are routed. The switch is plug-and play and full installation instructions with photographs will be provided with each kit. Installation will be fairly easy for experienced DYI types and very easy for any aftermarket installation shop.

If you plan to purchase the kit, please add your name to the pre-order list below. Kits will be provided on a first-come first-served basis and should start shipping in about 8 weeks. If your name is on the list, you will be notified when they're available for purchase. If you bought the original faulty Chinese cable kit, when you add your name to the list please add an asterisk next to your name. We'll double check it agains RF Supplier's original purchase list and you'll be provided a free replacement cable kit.

The wiki list has not yet been posted, but the first name on the list will be nkohlimd.
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Is the hit still available?
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DMage said: ?

Finished installing a kit I picked up from a user who never installed and have to say this is the best mod for a S and can't believe there are not 60k of these kits out there! My car has no parking sensors and I was worried about curbing it, however after doing an overnight test drive I found that the sensors were almost useless when it came to curbs when I stopped with 18 inches to spare on the screen but was 1" from hitting the curb when I exited the car. This kit makes all those worries go away and would be great even on cars with sensors!
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How did you find the user one, still trying to find one myself.
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Artsci, I will go back and read some earlier replies, but if you are still considering the 100 switch run, please put me down now for 2 (total).
Thanks
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Hey guys is this still available? Very
Interested thanks
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Also interested.
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I haven't paid attention to this thread for a while but just came to it now.

We're going to make reservations for the camera kit available on our EVApplique.com web site. I'll post here when we're ready to take them. It will take a couple of days. If and when we get near 100 reservations, we'll require a 50% deposit and go into production.
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artsci said: ?

I haven't paid attention to this thread for a while but just came to it now.

We're going to make reservations for the camera kit available on our EVApplique.com web site. I'll post here when we're ready to take them. It will take a couple of days. If and when we get near 100 reservations, we'll require a 50% deposit and go into production.
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Great to hear!! This seems like one of the most useful mods. Thanks.
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artsci said: ?

I haven't paid attention to this thread for a while but just came to it now.

We're going to make reservations for the camera kit available on our EVApplique.com web site. I'll post here when we're ready to take them. It will take a couple of days. If and when we get near 100 reservations, we'll require a 50% deposit and go into production.
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Perfecto!

Have you considered having 2 additional cameras to cover both sides, and have software to merge as a 360view?
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Artsci, I believe there is a typo in your website address as nothing comes up. I have a mid 2013 MS and I'm very interested in your product. Thanks.
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There is an S missing I think:

www.EVAppliqueS.com
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Please let me know.
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tko. let you know what, sir?
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I am interested as well, will register once i go through the installation.
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So is it possible to do a 3-way switch? I'd really like to have a 3rd row seat cam.
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teslamotorclub

Thứ Hai, 21 tháng 11, 2016

Front-rear camera touchscreen parking protection switch kit reservations part 5

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