Thứ Năm, 1 tháng 12, 2016

Lighted Tesla T for nosecone part 5

  • Feb 8, 2014
    SteveW25561
    I'm still waiting for some free time to install this but hooking up to the headlights with the Oznium controller sounds like a great idea. The issue (if I recall correctly) is that the Oznium controller does not remember its on:eek:ff setting when the controller is power cycled. Thus if you turn on your headlight you still need to use the remote to turn on the T even if the T was set "on" at last use. I understand the brightness/effects settings are preserved but the overall on/off isn't if you power cycle the Oznium.

    Or, am I entirely wrong?
  • Feb 8, 2014
    pgiralt
    Another alternative is to install the Oznium controller through the fuse so that it's always on, but then run the output through a relay that turns on and off using the headlights. This way, the Oznium is always on and therefore always remembers its setting, but the T only turns on if the headlights are on.
  • Feb 8, 2014
    artsci
    When power to the Oznium controller is turned off it does not remember the previous setting when power is restored. It will be off until switched on with the remote or Homelink.
  • Feb 8, 2014
    pgiralt
    That's why I'm saying that you keep power to the Oznium all the time. You are only using the relay to break the output circuit that goes to the T. The input power for the Oznium stays on all the time, hence remembering the setting.
  • Feb 8, 2014
    artsci
    Now I get it. A very good solution. Oznium has an off-on remote that if wired in the output circuit will do the trick.

    Also after much searching I found a Light Intensity Controlled LED Dimmer. I think this is just what the doctor ordered, as it will dim or brighten the Lighted T based on the ambient light brightness. I'm going to order one to try it out.

    dim16_main_0.jpg

    dim16_bi_1.jpg
  • Feb 8, 2014
    drtko147
    I am trying to picture the circuit through my head. I can understand how to hook up the Oznium controller to the fuse box. I guess the relay wire going to the headlight to control it going on and off is what I need to tap into. Does anyone know which one that it is?
  • Feb 8, 2014
    Msolomi
    Got mine installed today. It looks great. I do not think it is too bright as it actually matches the top part of the LEDs in the headlights. I got mine professionally installed as I am not good with cars and we simply did it so that they would turn on when the headlines turn on. Very nice even my wife liked it!
  • Feb 8, 2014
    drtko147
    Can you send me picture of what it looks like. If that is the case, maybe I will just hook it to the headlights and be done with it.
  • Feb 8, 2014
    rekoh
    This sounds interesting... can someone spell it out a bit more clearly for those of use with limited technical expertise...
  • Feb 8, 2014
    4SUPER9
    Here's a photo today with the headlights on. Daytime with cloudy skies. Sounds like if it is installed to the DRL's, it goes off when the headlights are on, so I'll leave it with the headlights until one of the wise folk here figure that one out.
    photo.JPG

    Here's a photo in my garage before I finished it all up:
    photo 2.JPG
  • Feb 8, 2014
    andrewket
    Here are pics of my car from this evening.

    zabahu8u.jpg

    myjejyda.jpg
  • Feb 8, 2014
    Msolomi
    Pics attached although they don't do justice to how it actually looks.

    At the restaurant, the valets thought it was a new Model S bc they had never seen it.
  • Feb 9, 2014
    pgiralt
    Hopefully this diagram clarifies a bit. You should be able to use a standard automotive relay that you can find at any auto parts store. I'm pretty sure the pin numbers are standard on all of these relays.

    lighted-t-relay-headlights.png
  • Feb 9, 2014
    drtko147
    Thank you for this. Using artsci's original design, am I to assume that the red with white strip wire needs to be cut and placed along the control relay and the lighted T would be on the other pin?
  • Feb 9, 2014
    rekoh
    This looks simple to wire up... so how would the lighted T work ?? (I am so remedial!) .. Oznium would be powered 24/7 ... the lighted t would come on and off with the headlights... and you can still use the remote if you want correct?

    A link to the specific relay would be helpful... also - what fuse would we tap into for the oznium controller?
  • Feb 9, 2014
    pgiralt
    I just looked through artsci's instructions and it looks like the output from the Oznium is the yellow wire, so the yellow from the Oznium would go to pin 30 on the relay and the Red lead from the lighted T would go to pin 87 on the relay.

    The red wire with white stripe is the headlight trigger so that would connect to pin 85 on the relay.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes, that's exactly how it would work.

    Here is a sample relay:

    http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-RLS125-12-VCD-Automotive-Relay/dp/B0002KR9GG/

    You might also want to get a socket for it if you don't want to deal with crimping all the spade connectors and then dealing with making sure they don't short out with electric tape. The socket would be easier to use:

    http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-5-Pin-Relay-Socket/dp/B0002ZPUMG

    Looks like this one is a combo with relay and socket together:

    http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6/
  • Feb 9, 2014
    rekoh
    Ok - I am almost there... couple of quick questions::

    1) What fuse does the Oznium plug into that is powered all the time?

    2) If I power the relay switch by hooking it up to the DRL = that means the lighted T will be on when the DRLs are on or the headlights 'cause the DRL's are on with the headlights correct?
  • Feb 9, 2014
    artsci
    #47 in fuse box 2. That's the fuse for the glovebox light.
  • Feb 9, 2014
    drtko147
    I am waiting for my Oznium controller to come in so currently I have hooked to the headlights. It didn't take me too long to install this and it looks great. I thought about hooking it up to the DRL. I know that the DRL are on when the headlights are on so it would be all the time I am driving.

    Another tip I learned with using the Posi-Tap is to make sure you hear the click. That means the wire gets penetrated. I didn't hear it the first time so the lighted T didn't come on. The second time around I did hear it and it worked like a charm.
  • Feb 9, 2014
    pgiralt
    In theory, yes. The only concern I have on this one is what voltage is supplied to the DRL's when they are dimmed (when the headlights are on or the blinkers are on) and whether or not that is enough voltage to trigger the relay. I'm guessing the dimming is actually done using PWM and not lowering the voltage, so as long as those pulses are long enough to keep the relay engaged, it should work. I suspect it will work fine, but only way to know is to try it out.
  • Feb 9, 2014
    Musterion
    This brings up another good point: the DRLs actually have individual control. E.g. Turn signal dims the DRL on that side only. So is the DRL tap wire specified in the instructions before or after the point where it must branch for the individual side control?
  • Feb 9, 2014
    rekoh
    or --- forget tapping into DRL or headlight and tap into a 12v accessory that is only on when the car is on... problem is there is not an easy one to get to in the frunk, unless someone has an idea..
  • Feb 9, 2014
    drtko147
    Has anyone tapped into the DRL? What does it look like?
  • Feb 10, 2014
    artsci
    No need to go into the frunk. The yellow wire with purple stripe behind the driver's side kick panel is a switched source that turns on when you sit in the driver's seat.
  • Feb 10, 2014
    rekoh
    I was looking for a connection as close to the nose cone as possible.. the driver's side kick panel is inside the car I assume. but everything for this project happens in the nose cone....
  • Feb 10, 2014
    artsci
    Don't know one there.
  • Feb 10, 2014
    mknox
    Still waiting for mine to show up. Probably stuck with Canada Customs or something :cursing:

    Looking at all of the salt and crud on the front of my car (so much so that my frunk latch is starting to seize up), I wonder how well this is going to stand up to northern winter abuse?
  • Feb 11, 2014
    yobigd20
    utequbyn.jpg

    What salt and crud? The glare finish makes the salt and crud slip right on by without sticking to the car and leaving it in immaculate condition 24/7! The image above is just a nightmarish dream that I had the other night.

    [wakes up from 2nd level of inception]

    crap. lol
  • Feb 11, 2014
    dsmith2189
    I know what you mean. Mine got stuck in Hawaii Customs or something :cursing:

    Looking at all the sand and sun in front of my car (so much that my frunk latch needs to be opened to get some liquid refreshment), I wonder how well this is going to stand up to the abuse?
  • Feb 11, 2014
    artsci
    If receipt is further delayed, please let me know via email or pm so we can put a trace on the package.
  • Feb 11, 2014
    mknox
    Canada Post shows the item as having been delivered yesterday, but it didn't show up here yesterday or today (the rest of my mail did).
  • Feb 11, 2014
    artsci
    Please PM me you full name and shipping address so we can trace.
  • Feb 11, 2014
    Chas F
    As I look around now at other cars, I can't help but wonder: "Why doesn't every manufacturer make their front logo lighted?" Seems to be a very cheap and dramatic way to promote their brands. It looks way cool but no other car but Mercedes does this AFAIK. Is there a law against it or something?
  • Feb 11, 2014
    artsci
    Many don't have designs the lend themselves to this kind of thing. But wait, it will catch on. Take BMW -- they'd have to make their classic round badge translucent and light it from behind. The multi colors might result in some bizarre effects when lit. The Tesla T is perfect for this.

    I finally installed a production version on my own car last night. Took me all of 15 minutes. It replaced a hand-made version. What a difference! I love that it's bright enough to be seen clearly in daylight. When I think of all of the development work that went into this it's very gratifying to see the end result.
  • Feb 11, 2014
    rekoh
    Has anyone hooked the power up to the daytime running lights? Curious as I wait for some other parts if that will work, and what the effect is on the power level to the lighted T when blinkers or headlight turns on and the DRLs dim....
  • Feb 11, 2014
    artsci
    If you read through the posts you'll find some who have used the DRL's. They indicate the the T dims when the turn signals are on. IMHO the Ozniun controller is the best way to go as it provides completely independent control plus the effects. The dimming feature is especially useful at night, when full brightness is less desirable.

    I'm running my car with the T always on.
  • Feb 11, 2014
    rekoh
    I must have missed that.. Thanks....
    I am still hoping to find a switched 12v power supply in the frunk somewhere... that way the T is on only when the car is on, and off when the car is off.... then use the auto relay and oznium option as described earlier. That way I get the best of all worlds :)

    So if anyone knows of a 12v power supply that is only on when the car is on in the frunk, let me know!
  • Feb 14, 2014
    yobigd20
    since we're on the topic of 12V here, does anyone know the specifics of how charging the 12V battery works? I'm asking with regards to aftermarket audio and whether or not caps or secondary 12V battery would be necessary or if it would be safe to just connect power directly to the tesla 12V.
  • Feb 14, 2014
    artsci

    My Reus upgrade connected directly to the 12v.
  • Feb 14, 2014
    yobigd20
    Oh I didn't know you got the Reus install. What components did they use? New amp? Equalizer? Can u send me pic of the them? Curious what the specs are.
  • Feb 14, 2014
    andrewket
    I'd like to hear tour system this weekend if possible. I've been curious if it's worth it
  • Feb 14, 2014
    artsci
    All of the above. Additional sub, replace stock sub, two amps, crossovers, etc. See this thread.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I'd be happy to demo it for you. Bring some music you like on a flash drive.
  • Feb 16, 2014
    rekoh
    Installed the T tonight.. this setup did NOT work. I followed the instructions to a T (no pun).. I even switched 85 and 86 because many online resources show them differently. Let me explain what I did:
    I hooked 30 up to the Oznium + Power out.
    I hooked 87a up to nothing
    I hooked 87 to lighted T + red wire
    I hooked 85 to Tesla DRL (Orange with green stripe wire)
    I hooked 86 to ground (10mm bolt)
    I tried hooking up Oznium - ground out to ground.. and to 86
    I tried reversing 85 and 86
    I tried hooking up to 87A
    I tried reversing 30 and 85
    Nothing worked properly... by properly I mean: the T comes on and off with DRL, and is still able to be fully controlled by Oznium.

    Any suggestions???

    Right now, I just have the oznium controller hooked up to fuse 87, ad it all works fine...

    I just want the T to come on and off with the car (without me having to press any buttons), and be able to control it with the Oznium controller if I wish.. is this too much to ask!?!?

    HELP!
  • Feb 16, 2014
    artsci
    First, the ground for the Oznium output (white wire) must be connected to the black wire for the lighted T. I think that's why it wasn't working. But the way you have this set up even with that connection it will only light up when the headlights are on.

    If you want the T to light when the car is powered on you should eliminate the headlight connection to the relay and make it instead with a switched power source. For that you'll have to tap the yellow wire with purple stripe under the driver's side kick panel, as there's no switched connection in the #2 fuse box.
  • Feb 16, 2014
    rekoh
    I will retry with the Oznium output ground to the lighted t black wire.. I didnt get that from the diagram.. only that they all needed to be grounded.

    I am going to use it with the DRL .. which essentially are on whenever the car is on... even if it dims when the headlights come on... I will report back how it works.

    I do think 85 and 86 are reversed in the diagram provided as 85 is black given my research online that should be ground <--is that a correct statement??
  • Feb 16, 2014
    pgiralt
    I didn't realize the Oznium has an output ground. If this is the case the artsci is right. You'll need that ground going to the T. Also, 85 and 86 should be interchangeable. If docs you've seen say to use ground on 85 then go for that. It really shouldn't matter given the way a relay works.
  • Feb 16, 2014
    rekoh
    are 87a and 87 reversed too??

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ok -- clearly I am thinking really hard on this..

    Will the DRL have enough power to trigger the relay when they dim due to headlights being turned on... hmmm....
  • Feb 17, 2014
    rekoh
    Ok...hooked it up.. works as instructed.. PROBLEM:: there is not enough power from the drl to activate the relay when the drls dim... aka when turn signal is on or when headlights come on... other thoughts to solve for this????
  • Feb 17, 2014
    pgiralt
    How much voltage comes out of the DRL when it is dimmed? We might have to try to find another relay that will activate at a lower voltage.
  • Feb 17, 2014
    rekoh
    Ok <--no electrical expert here...but ..
    When it is just DRL = 13.5
    When DRL is dimmed = .08

    No typos there...

    - - - Updated - - -

    I read in this thread: http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/13198-Switched-12v-power-line-to-tap-into?highlight=switched+12v

    that you can tap into the power steering fuse.. trying to figure out which one that is and if that will work instead of the DRLs...
  • Feb 17, 2014
    pgiralt
    Whoa. I wonder if there is actually a different connection that is used to power the DRL when it is dimmed or something like that. I can't imagine that would be enough voltage to actually light the DRL's.
  • Feb 17, 2014
    rekoh
    I hooked up to power steering.. fuse #75 in fuse box 3 (5a). That worked perfectly for what I want--a switched 12v power supply. Now off to buy more tap-a-fuse and solder and install more professionally that the way it is installed now (bubblegum and aluminum foil - lol)
  • Feb 17, 2014
    scriptacus
    I hooked mine up the same way today; oznium wired to per the instructions, with an additional relay wired to fuse #75. It seems to work perfectly. The only issue I had was that the add-a-fuse on #75 is a bit too tall for the cover. I managed to get it snapped on, but there's definitely some extra pressure there. The one other thing I noticed is that the fuse location doesn't match the diagram from the manual. The manual shows #75 on the right side, but in my fuse box it was on the left.
  • Feb 17, 2014
    Musterion
    Which manual were you looking at? My printed manual that came with the car never matched the fuse positions. Later manuals they put online got closer...

    Also just to confirm your setup: you wired Oznium to always-on power so it remembers its state, then use a relay actuated by switched power on #75 to connect Oznium output to lighted T. Correct?
  • Feb 17, 2014
    rekoh
    I looked at the manual from teslamotors.com under my dashboard after I logged in ...

    As for the hookup of the lighted T ...

    Oznium go constant power as indicated in original instructions. I used the relay (as previously posted) drawing power for the switch (on 85 of the relay) from fuse #75. I agree with the previous post that the fuse is the middle 5a on the left side which is different than the manual shows, and it is too tall with the tap-a-fuse (aka add-a-circuit), but with a pressure, the cover goes back on.

    How it works: Oznium control is always powered so it now remembers its last setting. The T comes on (assuming the last setting of the oznium controller was set to on) when the car is on, and turns off when the car turns off.

    just what I wanted!!
  • Feb 17, 2014
    Musterion
    Thanks @rekoh
  • Feb 18, 2014
    scriptacus
    So the one minor issue I've noticed is that if you use Homelink to turn the T on it will end up at a seemingly random brightness. I think this is because it's sort of spamming the "on" signal. I'm going to try repeated quick single clicks when programming Homelink instead of holding the button down like the car suggests. Hopefully the car detects that and sends the shorter signal instead.
  • Feb 18, 2014
    rekoh
    I have not had this issue at all.. My setup is wired like yours, and comes on perfect and bright with homelink. You may just need to reprogram homelink.
  • Feb 18, 2014
    4SUPER9
    As a clarification, when do the DRL's dim? Is it just with turn signals? If so, that is not a deal breaker for me and I will switch from headlights.
  • Feb 18, 2014
    pgiralt
    The DRL's dim when the headlights are on and when the turn signals are on. They are also dim when you set the 'parking lights' on manually. As far as I can tell, the wire that artsci identified as being the headlight wire is actually the 'dim DRL signal' light because when I tap into that wire (I think it was red with white stripe), the lighted T comes on when the headlights are on as well as when the 'parking' lights are on (DRL's on, but dimmed without the headlights on). Either that or I used the wrong wire :) I actually find that the T is not too bright at night when connected to this wire and I'm happy with it.

    I changed the 'leave headlights on when exiting the car' feature to ON so that I can actually admire the lighted T when I get out of the car. :)
  • Feb 18, 2014
    efusco
    If someone has a chance, I'd love to see a nice video of the install of a lighted T. Personally, I'd really like to have the auto-on with the DRL along with the Oznium remote to make it pulse or whatever. I have all the tools (I think), but am not confident about pulling stuff apart just yet and would really like to see the whole process, step by step before I launch into it.
  • Feb 19, 2014
    The Fury
    Is there anyone in the Dallas area that I can pay to install mine? I have mine assembled and ready to wire.. Just not as comfortable as well.. Also want a dashcam installed... I will also take suggestions of anyplace in the Dallas area to get it done?
  • Feb 25, 2014
    MoeMistry
    Just installed the lighted T for a client. We ended up using a relay to switch the T on whenever car is on and kept the driver on a constant "ON" so it remembers previous setting

    IMG_2844-web900.jpg

    IMG_3740-web900.jpg

    IMG_3741-web900.jpg

    IMG_3744-web900.jpg

    IMG_3748-web900.jpg
  • Feb 25, 2014
    artsci
    Nice work! What wire did you tap to trigger the relay when the car is on? Or were you able to find a switched fuse?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I'm doing a group install in Northern Virginia this weekend. We'll take a video of the whole thing then.
  • Feb 25, 2014
    GDH
    FANCY!
  • Feb 25, 2014
    efusco
    Awesome, thanks...if you can show where/how you'd do the various options (oznium vs headlamp vs DRLs) that would be great. I'd love to use the Oznium I have, but I'd rather the lights come on by default (like the installer above) each time...I'm still confused on how to facilitate that.
  • Feb 25, 2014
    Msolomi
    I got my car wash today and the controller no longer works as i cannot turn off the lights. I can dim (on occasion), strobe, but the light simply does not turn on. Just ordered another controller box and will have to find a better place to install as the controller box seems to be over sensitive to water and easily damaged.
  • Feb 25, 2014
    pgiralt
    Rick had sent this info a few days ago to the folks who ordered a T:

    I had an experience with the Oznium controller for my lighted T that I wanted to share with those of you who may be using this device to control the T.


    I took my car through a car wash yesterday to have all the road salt rinsed off. The T was on during the car wash and when I got home I couldn�t turn it off. I fact it was completely unresponsive to the remote.


    I have several spare controllers so I replaced the unresponsive one and all was well. Evidently water had somehow penetrated the controller and shorted it out.


    If you�ve installed the Oznium controller I recommend you take some simply steps to waterproof it. You can do this with it in place or remove it, which will make the job a bit easier and cleaner.


    Take a small tube of silicone sealant and place a dab on top of the two screws on the back of the controller, spread a thin band all the way around the seam on the controller sides, and seal off the hole where the wires protrude from the side. That should make the controller impervious to water incursion.


    Best,


    Rick
  • Feb 26, 2014
    MoeMistry
    I noticed one of the screws on the controller get rusted after an install we did a couple of weeks ago. So I took precaution and wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. Just an FYI.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Model S Fuse Box.png
    Used F75 - Power Steering for the relay (sharing with K40)
    Used F47 - Glove Box Light for the constant on for driver

    I do not like tapping into factory wires for client cars as this may have issues when taking to service center and warranty
  • Feb 26, 2014
    artsci
    Thanks pgiralt. I've emailed all the buyers of the first batch and advise all future buyers to take those steps to waterproof the Oznium controller.

    And I just contacted Oznium to request that they make a waterproofed version.

    Rick
  • Feb 26, 2014
    rekoh
    I wrapped mine in a few layers of electrical tape too ... should be fine. I also wrapped the relay switch and covered all the wires in tubing so it looks professional and is all sealed up nice and tight. I also used the fuses defined a couple of posts up.
  • Feb 27, 2014
    artsci
    Oznium will have a waterproofed version of the controller available in about a month.
  • Feb 28, 2014
    artsci
    [FONT=American Typewriter, sans-serif]Oznium let me know this am that owing to supplier delays in China the next production run will occur the week of March 10 and the T�s will likely ship during the following week. The manufacturer of the PCB insisted on a minimum order of 1,000 pieces, and producing that many accounts for the major part of the delay.[/FONT]

    [FONT=American Typewriter, sans-serif]We have about 25 paid orders already for the next production run of 60, so if you're interested you may want to order soon.[/FONT]
  • Mar 5, 2014
    rekoh
    Controller died today. I took it and the relay out and just wired it directly to fuse 75, so it is on when the car is on. Bummer because I really liked being able to turn it on and off (the flashing/breathing feature was fun for people to see, but never really used it).
  • Mar 5, 2014
    Msolomi
    My controller also died. It was not because it was allegedly exposed to water at a car wash. The technician said that there was no indications the controller was wet at all. The replacement controller did not function properly from the start as it was DOA and the company sent me a replacement. I do not believe that these controllers are of a very high-quality and hope that someone finds a better alternative.
  • Mar 5, 2014
    efusco
    Any chance to shoot that video?
  • Mar 6, 2014
    artsci
    [
    We do have one. Should be able to post a link tonight. I'M in China so the time difference will impact when it can be seen in the US.

    Update: We're probably several days away from posting the video.
  • Mar 8, 2014
    islandbayy
    Some snowy & Cold Shots. The light from the "T" really looks awesome reflecting off the snow.
    IMG_2033.JPG IMG_2034.JPG IMG_2035.JPG IMG_2036.JPG IMG_2037.JPG IMG_2039.JPG IMG_2042.JPG IMG_2038.JPG IMG_2043.JPG
  • Mar 9, 2014
    Musterion
    Could someone tell me what is the actual current draw of the Lighted T on max brightness? I gather it is less than 5 amps from the fuse choice but wanted to get the actual value to help me select an alternate LED controller.
  • Mar 9, 2014
    artsci
    I'm in China until Thursday but I'll measure it when I return home. We're talking milliamps but I'll provide a precise measurement.
  • Mar 9, 2014
    rekoh
    It would be great if you can find a controller that has memory of its last setting. :)
  • Mar 9, 2014
    4SUPER9
    OK, I have hooked up my T via 2 different methods: Headlights, and on when car is on (fuse 75). The downside to fuse 75 is that I never get to see the T myself (except in the reflection of the car in front of me). Having the headlights come on after exit allows me to really appreciate it. Since I really want the T on all the time, and still see it upon exit, I think I may have to go the diode method and run power from both the DRL and Headlights. Can someone tell me exactly which diodes I should buy?

    I guess another alternative is to use the oznium controller and manually turn it on/off. I would rather not though.
  • Mar 9, 2014
    rekoh
    sometimes I open my door and step on the brake pedal without getting in just to turn the car on so I can see the T. since I am on fuse 75...
  • Mar 9, 2014
    Msolomi
    I've Installed it both ways and I like with the remote control. It gives you the ability to leave it on if you want to and draining the battery is of no concern since it is minimal wattage. I sometimes leave it on for extended periods of time if I don't want to deal with the remote control and it gives you the ability to see it when you leave the car.
  • Mar 9, 2014
    4SUPER9
    What do you estimate is the life span of these LED's? I imagine very long. I'm just wondering what the effect would be on the battery and the LEDs if I left it on for, say, weeks.
  • Mar 9, 2014
    pgiralt
    I can't imagine that the LED's draw more than 5W of power (I'm guessing actually much less but that should be a good conservative number) so if you assume 5W over a 24 hour period, that is 120Wh of power used per day or 840Wh per week. That's almost 3 miles of rated range per week. That means it will last for many many weeks and the normal vampire drain is much more of an issue.
  • Mar 9, 2014
    artsci
    I'm sure the draw is a lot less than that.
  • Mar 10, 2014
    Asif
    But wouldn't this be drawing on the 12v accessory battery, and not the main battery pack? Does that make a difference? I.E. Would the battery management kick in automatically to charge the 12v if it got too low while parked. Only asking as I had the 12v battery issue a couple of times already.
  • Mar 10, 2014
    pgiralt
    Yes, it would be drawing from the 12V (just like the car's computers) so it would be no different than the way it handles the vampire drain from the computers today.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I agree. I figured I've give an absolute worst-case scenario.
  • Mar 11, 2014
    artsci
    The installation video is being edited and should be ready for posting in several days. We'll post it as soon as it's ready.
  • Mar 12, 2014
    artsci
  • Mar 13, 2014
    artsci
    The T and arch draw 256 milliamps, about 3 watts. By my calculation the 12 volt battery could power it for about 40 days without being charged.
  • Mar 13, 2014
    4SUPER9
    That's great. Thanks for the calculation. A question I posted earlier was, how long do you think these LEDs would last prior to "burning out"?
  • Mar 13, 2014
    artsci
    In general, LEDs have a life expectancy of 50,000 hrs. If you use your lighted T for about 10 hours a day, this should be 13.7 yrs. Not bad.

    Plus these are warranteed for the life of the car, so if they ever fail, you get a free replacement.
  • Mar 13, 2014
    4SUPER9
    Or, I can leave the T on permanently, and know that it could last another 6 years. Pretty impressive.
  • Mar 17, 2014
    artsci
    The next production run of 60 ships on or about March 21. A number from this run are still available.
  • Mar 18, 2014
    drtko147
    I had gotten great response from the staff at our local Service Center. They were impressed on how it looked. Too bad my MS will be there for a while. I need work done because I hit a log that was rolling down the hill while I was driving home on Saturday.
  • Mar 20, 2014
    artsci
    All current orders ship tomorrow. So soon there will be about 90 Model S's with lighted T's. To keep this special we may want to limit the number of cars that have it, so we may stop producing these once we reach 200 shipped.
  • Mar 20, 2014
    yobigd20
    man I'm lazy. I still haven't hooked mine up from the first shipment lol
  • Mar 20, 2014
    Denarius
    Lol, me either.
  • Mar 20, 2014
    andrewket
    It's really easy guys. Worst part is drilling the holes in the nosecone :)

    I still need to do something about the reflection on the chrome. While I love the "T" as-is, I wonder if rather than lighting the back/sides of the T as we have done, if creating an LED "T" would have been better. In other words, remove the T emblem on the car and replace with a an LED version. It might be easier to visualize the T at night and I suspect wouldn't reflect off the chrome as much since the light would be on the top surface rather than than pointing down and out.
  • Mar 20, 2014
    efusco
    Ditto...partly b/c I really want to watch a video. Partly b/c I bought the Oznium remote, but am not sure I want to use it. I think I'd rather use the fog lamp connection, but at the same time I'd like to be able to change it to pulse or something if/when I want to and that bit with the other part to permit that confuses me... And I'm a bit of a procrastinator anyway. Just anxious about taking apart the S as well...had no such anxieties with my Prius and hacked the heck out of that sucker, but for some reason this thing makes me nervous.
  • Mar 20, 2014
    yobigd20
    Actually I haven't done it yet for a few reasons

    1) I was waiting for all the lighting/fuse connection/controller options to be sorted out

    2) related to #1 I haven't bought the parts yet until I know exactly how I'm going to wire it

    3) I ordered 3M carbon fiber di-noc for the nose cone so going to kill two birds with one stone

    4) I also ordered 3M black 1080 wrap for the chrome piece in the middle of the nose cone to reduce the reflection

    So it's a bit more then wiring it up as I'm going to do all of this at once.

    :)
  • Mar 20, 2014
    xhawk101
    Me either. ...hoping to find someone to pay to install.
  • Mar 21, 2014
    brooklynrab
    I am receiving my car next week (P85) and the lighted T and carbon fiber covering for the nosecone are the two things I want to tackle first..
    Artsci -- Do you have any of these left or are they all sold out? ALso, if I want to keep things simple, and not get the add-on box, if i hook into daytime running lights, does that mean it stays lit when it is dark and my real headlights are on -- i.e., does that keep it on at night as well? Also, do headlights stay on for 60 seconds or so after you leave the car, thereby allowing me to see my lit "T"?
    Thanks
  • Mar 21, 2014
    drtko147
    If you look it up with the daylight running lights, when the headlights come on, the lighted T dims along with the daylight running lights. If you hook it up to the headlights, there is a setting in the controls to leave the headlights on when you exit the car. This is helpful if you arrive in dark garages or driveways. So the lighted T will stay on when you exit the car.
  • Mar 21, 2014
    4SUPER9
    I too want to keep it simple. I tried this 2 ways: just the headlights or on when the car is on (fuse 75). The problem with fuse 75 was that I never got to see it on myself. The problem with headlights is that I also wanted it during the daytime with DRL's. So, I have purchased some diodes and will run power from both DRL's and headlights. If it works, I will post pics of how I did this.
  • Mar 21, 2014
    artsci
    We still have a number left in the current run. If you order now it may ship today or Monday at the latest.


    I you hook into the DRLs the T will be on when the DRLs are on. Same with the headlights.
  • Mar 22, 2014
    yobigd20

    so what's the consensus on this thread, hook up to the DRLs?? oznium controller? Anyone figure out how to do both? (oznium controller that's always on and remembers settings but T only comes on when DRLs are on?)
  • Mar 22, 2014
    artsci
    I think this is a matter of personal preference. There really doesn't appear to be a consensus.
  • Mar 22, 2014
    4SUPER9
    Success! I have installed the T to both DRL's and the headlights. Now, they are on most of the time, including when I exit the car so that I get some personal enjoyment, and fully automated so that I have no need to do anything.

    First, I picked up a package of Diodes from Amazon here.
    I then soldered some small strips of wire to each end of the diode as in this pic (make two of these, and don't make fun of my soldering please):
    IMG_2352.JPG


    I then took these two setups, and crimp connected them together on the power side (end of the diode with the silver strip). Next, I sealed the diode/soldered sections with shrink tubing. I placed crimp connectors on the other(power receiving) ends. My crimps don't match together well, as I ran out of one type and had to switch. Using the Posi-locks, I have one wire going from the DRL lead, and one from the headlight lead. If I decide I only want one or the either in the future, I simply unplug the one I don't want:
    IMG_2395.jpg
  • Mar 23, 2014
    artsci
    Excellent 4Super9! I love to see other owners developing their own solutions!
  • Mar 23, 2014
    drtko147
    Sorry for my ignorance, but isn't the DRL on when the headlights are on? Isn't the extra current going to overload the lighted T? artsci, do you know if the lighted T can handle the extra load?
  • Mar 23, 2014
    andrewket
    1/ The DRL wire does not have voltage present when the headlights are on. I learned this the hard way.
    2/ There is no risk of "extra" current going to the LED T. It doesn't work that way. The diodes will keep current flowing in one direction. The amount of current the LED T draws remains the same. You can over drive voltage, not current. Both "feeds" are coming from the same 12V source.
  • Mar 23, 2014
    drtko147
    Thank you for that information. When I get my MS back, I'll try this.
  • Mar 23, 2014
    artsci
    It'll be fine.
  • Mar 23, 2014
    Klaus
    I tried the 2 diode setup a few weeks ago but couldn't get the T to light up from the headlights. I may have tapped the wrong wire (even though I thought I followed the instructions) but then ran out of opportunity to play more with it. The DRL portion worked fine. What is the location and color of the headlight wire again?
  • Mar 23, 2014
    artsci
    Red wire with white strip in the bundle that attached to the headlamps.
  • Mar 23, 2014
    4SUPER9
    Did you test each diode? It's possible that one was labeled incorrectly.
  • Mar 23, 2014
    Klaus
    Yes, it didn't work either without a diode directly from the headlight wire.

    (The advantage of connecting everything with Posi-Tap connectors - can be modified in a minute ...)

    I got strange fluctuating/pulsating voltage readings for the supposed headlight wire, but as I said ran out of time and opportunity to check into it more. Being on crutches for a few more weeks doesn't help :-(
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