Thứ Năm, 5 tháng 1, 2017

Heat / HVAC on 7.0 - poor performance? part 1

  • Oct 17, 2015
    rdrcrmatt
    Since I installed the 7.0 on my Classic P85 the Heat on the HVAC works like crap!

    I turned on the defroster at 74 tonight and felt cold air blowing, the car used to warm up to the desired temp quickly and this time it took 10 minutes or so while driving (in 40* outside temps)

    Here's a vid from last night when trying to really warm the car up quickly, just didn't make any sense. Watch the fan speed when I change temperatures.


  • Oct 17, 2015
    Xenoilphobe
    Mine is doing the same thing. I'm not sure what changed...
  • Oct 18, 2015
    rdrcrmatt
    I guess I'll give it a few more days before I cry about the slow heating times for normal temps. It seems as though the heater is just taking more time to heat on 7.0, but I HAVE NO DATA TO BACK THAT UP.
  • Oct 18, 2015
    Xenoilphobe
    Both my P85's are having heating issues I checked it with a FLIR E5 Infrared Camera and with a Ryobi Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer - no heat is being generated.
  • Oct 18, 2015
    Forty Creek
    I think they have tinkered with the fan speed relative to the temperature setting. I believe it will take some time under differing conditions to see if the net effect is better than pre 7.0. The claim is faster warm up using less energy. I would like to hear just how that is possible.
  • Oct 18, 2015
    rdrcrmatt
    wow.

    Mine is making heat, just what feels to be very slowly compared to what it used to be.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Drucifer
    Had heat yesterday and day before with version 7. Now nothing. Will reach out to Tesla service.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Majerus
    Same problem, also had to turn it up to 85 before the vent stopped feeling cold. Also noticed my A/c compressor is kicking on very hard (makes a loud click when starting) after the update.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    jdw
    Turning on defrost also turns on the AC, which makes sense on a warm day in the rain. Not so much to de-ice ... wonder if it takes the outside temp into consideration?
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Kalud
    I've made numerous tests, the new system now target the temperature that you set precisely. If it overshoots then it cool down (hence the cold air that you fell, and its uncomfortable when its cold outside).

    The previous 6.2 behavior was to heat and then if it overshoots just wait, so sometimes it was a bit hotter that the setpoint, like 2-3 degree Celcius above it. Now it aggressively corrects.

    More tests needed but it seems that if you set "Range Mode" it avoid cooling down the heat overshoots (uses less energy).

    Also they increased the accuracy of the temperature readout. In Celcius it was using 0.5 increment and it now uses 0.1C increment.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    mknox
    I've noticed two things:

    One is that the setpoint is now closer to reality. Since getting the car 2.5 years ago, I've had to keep it set at 67 F to make the interior feel like 72 used to on every other car I've owned. After getting V7, I noticed it was cold in the car and had to bump it up to 71 or so and it seems to feel like it used to at 67. This is an improvement

    The second is that the fan speed on Auto, which was too slow in the past, is now even slower. Without proper air circulation, I get bad window fogging. I keep my right scroll wheel set for fan speed so I can thumb it up or down as needed, and press to put the fan back in Auto. Looks like I'll continue to need to do that.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Chasedrgc1223
    I disagree... On my 85D, climate control has become how I remember it in my Lexus. It's really a set and forget system now. I'm hearing a lot about pre-autopilot cars being negatively impacted, and I'd be interested to see why that is.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Majerus
    My car is an autopilot car.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    rodb
    +1
    My heat is working very poorly after 7.0 upgrade. I took a drive into the mountains yesterday. Started off with just the seat heaters as the temp in town was mild. Started heading up and the temp started to drop so I turned the heat on and set to 68. The temp in the car kept dropping. after 30 minutes I turned the temp up to 75. in another 30 minutes the car was warm...not hot, not 75.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    BriansTesla
    This is fascinating! In my non-AP car, the heat used to take forever to start blowing warm air. It felt like an old air cooled VW.

    With V7 it now seems much much better.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Xenoilphobe
    played with it more it seems to working ok just slower to heat
  • Oct 20, 2015
    Todd Burch
    It could be that the newest software version relies more on the heat pump (more energy efficient, but slower to reach desired temperature) than resistive heating (faster to heat up but (much) less efficient). This might explain why it seems to be less effective at first, but at least some of you report that it's just slower to heat up.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    CHG-ON
    As far as cooling, mine works better than ever. Still hot here in CA. I used to have to keep in recric and the fan blowing around 7-8 to feel comfortable. Now I am using auto and the fan seems to sit at around 2-3-4 and I am totally comfortable. And I am ALWAYS hot! I had the car at 70 last night and it seemed to work just fine. Not much air, but it felt fresh, and I wasn't cold. But then again. I am always hot :smile:. It was probably in the low 60's. Now I am curious and will test using more heat. I will say that my compressor seems a lot louder at low loads: more like it did when the car was 110 and I cranked it up to cool it down.

    I think that what I read was that cooling was more efficient and better. Doesn't do much for our northern friends, unfortunately.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    JenniferQ
    I find the cooling is working much better. It was cooler today, after stinking hot summer lasting way into Oct, and for some reason as we were driving the a/c flow switched to the floor vents and started blowing cold air on our feet. I had turned it up to about 75 to keep it from being too cold. But strange to read this thread after having that happen. I would have thought that if it diverted from cabin to floor it would have blown hotter air. Nope. Luckily, it was a perfect 72 (where have you been?) and we just opened the windows and the sunroof and all was well again. But, I think I experienced what you in colder climates are referring to.
  • Oct 20, 2015
    apacheguy
    Thought the MS only had a heat pump. It has dual heaters? Seems inefficient especially considering the extra weight.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Chrisizzle
    I caught a chill getting in and out of the car running errands without my jacket. The heat was completely non responsive. I set the temp to 31 Celsius in desperation and there was no change in heat or fan speed.

    Manually increasing fan didn't help either. You could feel the air gradually cool as I assume the heater unit wasn't keeping up.

    From my experience with long range driving in winter under V6, the heat would be noticeably worse when the battery dropped to about 1/3 remaining. The heat seems to be like that always now.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Todd Burch
    Heat pumps become ineffective when it gets really cold--so resistive heating is necessary in these situations. It's not much extra weight...resistive heating (kinda like a toaster) can be done with little additional hardware, but the car tries not to use it since it uses so much more energy than a heat pump.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Kalud
    The Model S doesn't have a heat pump, just an AC unit (compressor) that is shared between the cabin and battery for cooling only. Both the cabin and battery are heated with PTC Heaters. Those are resistive heaters, giving 1W of heat for 1W of energy consumed.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Duckjybe
    I had this exact same experience on a coolish sunny day with v7. (outside temp around 15 C). I couldn't get any heat and fan to come on just by turning up the temperature.

    But then in the morning when it was cold (32 F, 0 C) outside the car heated up just fine. Everyone should keep in mind that the newer cars may perform differently with HVAC. Maybe the software was tweaked for them?
  • Oct 21, 2015
    bob_p
    Check the "range mode" setting - and if it's enabled, then turn it off - and see if it works better.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    bhuwan
    Noticing the same exact issues
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Duckjybe
    Yes I did that exact thing when it wasn't heating up and it made no difference.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    scaesare
    Have you seen anything definitive indicating there IS a heat pump?

    I've seen several posts to the effect that there does not appear to be one. (On edit: including Kalud's above)
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Kalud
    Here's the thermal management diagram from the diagnostic screens (from an earlier thread)

    Temp Screen 5.12.JPG TOUXlWM.jpg
  • Oct 21, 2015
    rdrcrmatt
  • Oct 21, 2015
    gregincal
    Yesterday driving home the outside temperature was 72 and the Tesla was set to 75. The air blowing on me was too cool. I opened the window and the air coming in the window was warmer.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    jayman
    I went on a 550 mile trip in about 40 - 50 degree farenheit. There was definitely a difference and it was annoyingly colder than previous to 7.0. In my opinion it worked great before
  • Oct 21, 2015
    RDoc
    I'm not an expert at all on this stuff, but I don't see any obvious way to get heated coolant into the cabin radiators which are the two near the top I assume. Perhaps the assumption was that when you need enough heat to draw a significant current, the battery also needs heat so there isn't much available for the cabin?
  • Oct 21, 2015
    brkaus
    I would like to know for sure if it is heat pump capable. From a very simplistic view, the difference between a standard AC and a great pump is a valve (or two).
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Chrisizzle
    So, how does this work now that we have discovered a problem?

    I posted here here to see if I was alone. Now, do I (we) email Tesla to make them aware?
  • Oct 21, 2015
    bhuwan
    SWAD.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    mknox
    I've been told the MS does not have a heat pump and only resistive heating.

    After a couple of days at "cooler" but not really cold temps, I've noticed that my legs start getting cold after 30 to 45 minutes of driving. I keep having to bump the temp and the fan speed up.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    AmpedRealtor
    Technically, isn't an AC compressor also a heat pump? We're just talking about direction. I have a heat pump installed on my pool. It is nothing more than reversing AC compressor. When it cools, it expels hot air. When it heats, it expels cold air. The question I'm asking myself is whether the compressor in the Model S is reversible.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    cynix
    According to earlier discussions, it's not reversible.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    brkaus
    Many heat pumps have a reversing valve rather than a reversible compressor.

    The car will have to be disassembled, or listen for the compressor running when the heat is on but defrost is not.

    There is value in a heat pump. At reasonable outside temps, can heat at 3x the efficiency. Still need resistive backup of course.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    AWDtsla
    Not true anymore. Mitsubishi has air source heat pumps that work to -13F, and don't need backup heat.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    cynix
    I would be very happy if the Model S was able to use the heat pump for heating. Here in Sydney it never gets very cold, so the heat pump should be good enough all winter.
  • Oct 21, 2015
    Great Dane
    Ok
    here is the new disaster report
    ac works great
    but software boys must be the same as from windows 10.
    took 5 minutes to switch from ac to heat. current draw from wall
    24 amps because I left it plugged in to get these readings.
    only on HI was heat ok.
    confirmed Compressor running full blast on HI heat
    feel the vibration in steering wheel and can also hear it ramp up
    put my hand trough open left and right vents in front of car
    on the little Radiators.
    confirmed they were warm (total energy loss here
    because they should have been cold if we had a
    heat pump, Most of us already Knew that.
    We need an emergency update for them to fix this
    People in colder climates must really be suffering.
    Major blunder here !!
  • Oct 21, 2015
    AWDtsla
    Major bug, or working in heat pump mode. Check the condenser to see if it's cold/cold air is coming out.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    Kalud
    Strange, I did not experience anything like that yet. On 7.0 and its 35F tp 55F outside these day over here... Heat is quick as before.

    Only difference I see is regarding the setpoint, if you set 70F you get that. Even if its cold outside and the car is at 71F it will aggressively cool to 70F. Before it would just overshoot above and do nothing. So basically I am using a slightly higher setpoint and it respects it vigorously. It looks like setting to "Range Mode" will works more like before and less aggressively cool to target temperature.

    Pretty happy with the performance. On 6.2 it was resting many degree above the setpoint and it was annoying.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    mknox
    Yeah. I used to keep it at 67 F just so that the car would come to rest at 72 F. Now 72 F seems to give me 72 F. Similar temps here lately (35 to 55 F) but what I find is that on long-ish drives, the car actually seems to creep down in temperature as I drive. I notice my legs getting cold. The fan will have dropped right down to 1 or 2. I then have to bump the fan speed up a bit and maybe even have to bump the temp up a bit just to maintain comfort.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    scaesare
    There was a running change shortly after I got my car (May '13) to add a "respirator" under the center armrest that draws cabin air in past a relocated temp sensor.

    Earlier cars (like mine) apparently have the temp sensor somewhere else (steering column near dash?) and it seems to not perform well there, as I also find I have to offset my HVAC controls by ~4 degrees to get the temp I want.

    I wonder if this firmware has a separate calibration for the older sensor configurations that attempts to correct for this?
  • Oct 22, 2015
    mknox
    I wondered that too. (Mine is also a "pre-aspirator" car). Seems almost everyone with the older sensor setups had this setpoint/actual discrepancy.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    Kalud
    That is very possible, my Classic was built in Nov 2013 and has the aspirator under the armrest.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    mknox
    I assume you meant "arm"rest :smile: My March 2013 car does not have it there and I believe just has a non-aspirated sensor somewhere behind the dash near the steering wheel.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    Kalud
    Oops, yes :)

    I guess there were a reason they made the change. I don't remember if you already mention it, but did you ever asked for the new sensor ? I don't know if they do replace it on request or not...
  • Oct 22, 2015
    mknox
    I doubt it's retro-fittable and never asked. It would involve a new center console (with the openings) sensor, aspirator fan, wiring harnesses etc. etc.
  • Oct 22, 2015
    Great Dane
    Something came to mind
    it was 80 degrees outside with 70%
    Humidity when I ran my test.
    Is it possible that the car was making heat
    and running the compressor to lower the humidity in the car?
  • Oct 22, 2015
    brkaus
    Most cars will do that in defrost. Not sure if there are other conditions that would trigger it.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    vchadha
    I have the same issues. HVAC is not accurate at all. I will set to 24deg celcius and it only reaches 19 or 20dec celcius at best when on Auto mode. Previous to ver 7.0 these issues did not exist.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    mknox
    Further observations: Quite a bit colder this morning (around 35 F) and I didn't pre-heat the car. What I observed is that I could feel the heat coming in, but the fan only was running at 2. Most cars will ramp the fan up quite high, then throttle it back as the car warms up. Not sure what the benefit of keeping the fan speed so low is, but it's not really working for me. I do keep my right scroll wheel set to control the fan, and I find more often than not I have to scroll it up to a more acceptable level.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    Cyclone
    So in essence, people are seeing that while they improved the cooling performance, Tesla hampered the heating performance. Perhaps the revised set point algorithms can determine if cooling or heating are needed and use 7.0-style cooling and 6.2-style heating as appropriate?
  • Oct 23, 2015
    Kalud
    It looks a bit more complicated than that because 7.0-style heating works great on my car. And its getting colder and colder outside over here, at or near freezing point outside.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    mknox
    Are you seeing the slow fan speed on Heat like I am (in my post above)?
  • Oct 23, 2015
    vchadha
    My fan speed is mostly at no 2.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    ItsNotAboutTheMoney
    It doesn't have a heat pump. It just has a system that captures heat from the motors.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    mknox
    Which apparently none of which makes it to the cabin. The motor(s) inverter and batteries are on a loop, but the cabin is resistive heating only. I used to think otherwise, but got in to a long, drawn out debate in another thread where I came to this conclusion.
  • Oct 23, 2015
    SmartElectric
    Phoned Tesla Lawrence (Toronto Canada) SC today to report the issues we've been having with the cabin heating.

    1. Tesla acknowledged they have received other complaints on this
    2. Checked my VIN and confirmed that an earlier maintenance bulletin was performed for HVAC
    3. Confirmed that early VIN's like mine (and mknox) have the cabin sensor on the right side of the driver footwell, adjacent to the 17" display carpeted area. Was advised not to rest my right leg such that it would obscure the sensor.
    4. I advised that pre-heating with no-one in the car wasn't working properly. Was heating, then cooling, then heating cabin over 20 minute period.
    5. Was told to reset the heating controls to full auto and avoid changing fan speed.
    6. <edit added later> Was also told not to use "HI" but set a temperature. I said "34C wasn't doing it, so is there a better temperature to use". Response = "um, no".

    Will not be standing back on this one, my wife drove back from Brampton a few nights ago and was ticked off with the lack of cabin heat.
    Thanks to heated seats, she survived. But it now has become "my problem", and I'll be making it "someone else's problem" real soon now. ;-)
  • Oct 23, 2015
    bhuwan
    LOLz!
  • Oct 23, 2015
    travwill
    Ha! Relax, I'm sure they will fix the heating issues before next Summer ;-)
  • Oct 23, 2015
    Great Dane
    I am now in My confession booth.
    The major blunder was me.
    Thanks to a recent Bjorn
    video, I noticed he also had ac on and
    heat on, all you have to do is make sure
    to turn of the ac, and crank up the thermostat
    Now it just looks like a shift in the numbers
    Where the ac kicks in earlier
    and heat kicks in later.
    Maybe so they wont cross over
    because at 77 heat use to kick in
    in summer
    Have yet to try it in colder weather
    Because Florida is keeping it nice and mild for us !
  • Oct 24, 2015
    Kalud
    Sorry I missed that post yesterday. No, on auto it just increase the fan to 8-9 and then slowly decrease in down to 2 as it reached the target temperature. Exactly as it should do normally.
  • Oct 24, 2015
    mknox
    Thanks for the update, @SmartElectric.



    I wasnt aware that the sensor was in the footwell! I had always heard it was in the lower portion of the dash, neat where the steering column comes out.



    I havent confirmed on v7 yet, but do know that when you pre-heat with the app, it will set the car to full Auto even if you left it in some manual configuration. Early gersions of the firmware would leave the system in Auto after you got in, which was really annoying. They fixed that and now the car will revert from Auto back to your previous settings after you get in and start the car.
  • Oct 24, 2015
    Cyclone
    This would be great. Many times I worry about it being on a weird manual setting if I were to precondition the car. For instance, where I live I use recirculate at all times except when it's raining. If I use that when raining, the Windows fog up. So I would prefer if I precondition the car, it would use full auto and have the chance to use fresh air. I look forward to what you find out mknox.
  • Oct 25, 2015
    Chrisizzle
    So, the solution is not to use the accelerator pedal?!?! o_O
  • Oct 25, 2015
    scaesare
    As mknox mentions, this "corrective change" was already introduced back in the v5 or v6 days. Are you worried about it reverting back?
  • Oct 25, 2015
    Cyclone
    No, I just never knew it was there.

    Along the same lines that for the longest time, I didn't use the Tesla app to vent my sunroof because I didn't want to walk to the car to close it if it rained. No doc or visual clue existed that the gent button would change to a close button when lock/unlock were separate buttons. So I didn't have any info that it would go to full auto when I precondition the car and sometimes I didn't use it when I worried my manual settings wouldn't be appropriate.
  • Oct 25, 2015
    SmartElectric
    Well if you're like this, you might need to use cruise control more often:
    figure5.jpg
  • Oct 25, 2015
    scaesare
    OK gotcha. Yeah, some of the subtle behaviors are not called out.

    I'm with you in that not having to rest my HVAC settings to where I wanted them was a welcome change.
  • Oct 25, 2015
    Tree95
    I think those are the radiators below the front bumper on either side behind louvers that open when the car is charging (usually supercharging) and making a lot of noise trying to keep cool.
  • Oct 27, 2015
    mknox
    It would appear that v7 maintains the past practice of switching the HVAC to Full Auto when you remotely enable it, and restoring the car to your previous settings once you get in and power the car on. As I mentioned, quite a while back it would switch to Full Auto, but then leave it on Full Auto when you got in the car.

    - - - Updated - - -

    They open when the ambient temps are high and the a/c is working hard even if not Supercharging.
  • Oct 27, 2015
    Edgewood Dome
    My early vin (6273) S85 also has not heated correctly since this last update. I need to put the set point up to about 78 to keep it at 70. I've also noticed the AC is on even with the high set point and had to turn it off manually. Reading this whole thread it seems some early vins are not having the same problem, so their hardware configuration must be different. I reported the problem to the Seattle SC and hope Tesla reads this blog since this is a clear firmware error. While it's not life threatening, it is very annoying.
  • Oct 27, 2015
    JenniferQ
    My thermostat was set to 80 today for some reason when I got in. It's still very hot here so there's no reason I would have had it at 80. But, even at 80 it was blowing cold through the dash vents. Seems strange. If I wanted it at 80, shouldn't it have blown thru the foot wells and been hot?
  • Oct 27, 2015
    badgerlake
    Same heating issue (lack of) here and I am an early vin (1776). Also, took forever for front heating defrost to work tonight (in Seattle area as well)
  • Oct 28, 2015
    vchadha
    I hope they sort this issue out soon. Living in Canada we will be getting sub zero temperatures soon.
  • Oct 28, 2015
    mknox
    It's weird how it works now. When I get in the car in the morning, I can feel the heat, but the fan speed is quite low. It almost feels like there is a radiant heater under the dash. Then, as I drive, it actually starts getting colder. I can feel the cold in my legs and feet. Usually, turning the fan speed up manually helps, but I do wonder how it's going to be when it starts getting really cold.
  • Oct 28, 2015
    vchadha
    I have the same issue. Even worse my rear facing seat area does not warm up much. I think i will have to buy a portable heater
  • Oct 29, 2015
    rdrcrmatt
    I took mine in today, service writer said they had been hearing this complaint and said they can fix it. I'll update when I get the car back.
  • Oct 29, 2015
    RDoc
    I must say I'm concerned that Tesla keeps releasing software with problems and regressions in it. That bespeaks a pretty broken software engineering department.
  • Oct 30, 2015
    rdrcrmatt

    I wouldn't disagree.

    The update (2.7.77) made the heat better, it wasn't terribly cold last night so I'm not sure it is as good as it was, but it was for sure better than the original 7.0.

    Also added a time and temp display to the instrument cluster.
  • Nov 3, 2015
    Morristhecat
    The other day, I went into an underground parkade after being in the humid rain, naturally the windows started fogging as we entered so I hit the defrost button. I was expecting the fan to be blowing and clear it right away per usual. Nothing. It was very frustrating and i had to stop and roll all the windows down and go at a careful snails pace. In v6 it used to blast that fog away rather well, now it is less than terrible.
  • Nov 3, 2015
    MikeBur
    Tonight it hit 40s (6C) here, heating in .77 is very much improved, as per expectation to address.

    - - - Updated - - -

    humid rain? Yet to meet the dry rain ;-)

    seems to blow much better on .77, I have to believe there's going to be a wider OTA version of this go out soon (AP 1.01 included?)
  • Nov 3, 2015
    islandbayy
    I was having issues with heat (Still am, it works like complete crap now), but, fortunately, being November, we have a heat wave (Should be low 30's, but instead we're Low to High 70's, at least until Friday).


    Trying to keep the car at a comfortable temp, I'm either getting Frozen Stiff, or Roasted like a pig on a open fire. The car cant decide what it wants to do. Turn on the AC or Crank the heat to max. Given that Wisconsin's summer temps are just a tad higher (Mid 70's average), I have plenty of experience in this temp range and this car. This is not normal.
  • Nov 3, 2015
    MikeBur
    Might be worth a call, then trip, to SC. 2.7.77 definitely is a lot better than before and the havoc algorithm is one of the fixes.
  • Nov 4, 2015
    islandbayy
    Cars going in for Drive unit 4, Door handles and water intrusion again Friday. I'll have them look at it then. Good to know. They will update firmware to latest with the Drive Unit install anyways. Looking forward to it.
  • Nov 4, 2015
    AmpedRealtor
    Are you at least receiving the latest drive unit brand new from the factory? Given the issues you've had, I would hope that Tesla is giving you the latest and greatest DU that Elon bragged about in yesterday's earnings call.
  • Nov 4, 2015
    cinergi
    Did you hit it twice so it turned red (instead of blue)?
  • Nov 4, 2015
    Morristhecat
    Yes and it doesn't turn red anymore.
  • Nov 4, 2015
    Cyclone
    What?!? I thought that was a great feature!
  • Nov 5, 2015
    DJung
    Since it's been so hot in CA lately, I was satisfied by the A/C performance but never got to try the heater. Now that temps have been falling, I went out to grab a hot cup of coffee tonight and tried out the heater in my car. Don't know whether it's just confirmation bias, but the heater is definitely not as warm as I remember. Car indicated it was blowing heat from below by the legs, but I couldn't feel a thing until I put my hand under my dash by the vent. Had to crank up the temp to 75 and turn on the seat heaters to 3 to get warm. Even after my 10 minute drive and leaving the heater on via mobile app while I was inside, it never really got nice and toasty even at 75 degrees (55 degrees outside).

    But I still got that nice/nostalgic heater smell in my car, makes me feel really cozy.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    Woland
    HVAC (heat at least) seems to be much less effective, and less efficient in terms of battery usage, for me, than it was pre-v7.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    Cyclone
    Not discounting anybody's experience in this thread, but please keep in mind that v7.0 temperature selection is more accurate of "real" temps than v6.2's. Case in point, I keep my car (6.2) on 68 and the loaner I drove yesterday was on 68 (7.0). I was a little chilly at first and didn't think much of it. As I drove in the 50s and began to freeze, I recalled the temperature change and set it to 71 (what I used on my ICE). It was acceptable to me there. That said, I only had the car for one day and didn't experience much in the way of different temperatures, so that does not mean that heating isn't less effective in v7 -- I'm just saying that heating from v6.2 X temp would be greater than x7.0 X temp and you should compare it against X + 2 or X + 3.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    mknox
    Just checked and mine still does on v7. Blue on the first tap and red on the second (sets heat to HI and fan to max).
  • Nov 5, 2015
    Kalud
    Checked mine also, on 7.0 (2.7.56) it still does the blue first then red.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    MikeBur
    Still turns red on .77 too

    - - - Updated - - -

    My addled brain remembers a number of threads where we were all saying the internal temp of the car was always higher (via app, or independently), than set. This was both for AC (when hot outside) and heat (when cold outside). Is this the same thing, i.e. Start trusting the number more?

    Doesn't explain the higher energy use. I also noticed higher use when warming, though the net average on 20mile daily route was about the same (not using shoreline)
  • Nov 5, 2015
    Cyclone
    Yes, that is the point I was trying to make. So if under v6.2 you put it at 68 F to get a specific level of heat out of the system, under v7.0 68 F will provide less heat. If you were setting to 68 F b/c you wanted 71 F in the car with v6.2, then under v7.0 you should set to 71 F.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    3mp_kwh
    Resistance heat is so much more thirsty than A/C. In my colder 30-50 degree mornings, Version 7 has made the car more like an old vehicle where I'd just crank it, and turn it down when happy. If I set 70-75, the heating speed is slower, and seems to blow around cold air for too long.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    rdrcrmatt

    agreed.. even with the update (2.7.77) it still isn't good again.
  • Nov 5, 2015
    Morristhecat
    Service center updated me today (while they swapped my drive unit), and now the defrost is much better.
  • Nov 14, 2015
    Edgewood Dome
    Version 2.7.56 (7.0) on an early vin (6273) still having heating trouble (as in low to no heating) since the upgrade to 7.0. After a little more testing what I think the problem has to do with the fan speed control. With the setpoint at 73�F, with the cabin cold, like around 65�F, the fan speed will stay at 2. Running the setpoint up to 80�F it will eventually speed up the fan to around 4 or 5 and the cabin heats up to about 74�F. If I manually set the fan speed up to 8 to 10 with the setpoint at 73�F it appear to cycle the heat to maintain around 73�F. Also putting the screen defrost on the 1st setting the car warms up to and stays at setpoint, this is because it runs the fan at max.

    I reported it to the SC and also via the on-board bug submission over two weeks ago and still no fix. Sure wish Tesla would fix this soon, getting annoying.
  • Nov 15, 2015
    AmpedRealtor
    It's only taken Tesla 3 years to further screw up the HVAC system which never worked properly to begin with. Things that "just work" in other cars don't in a Tesla. Maybe Tesla should provide some blankets as a retrofit item. Maybe Consumer Reports can write about the the amazing blanket retrofit.
  • Nov 15, 2015
    Majerus
    Drove from Chicago to Saint louis last night, the temp was about 27F outsize. The whole trip I had to fiddle with the temp as it seemed no matter how high it was set it would almost cool the car off. Finally after setting it to 83 the car felt comfortable. It does seem that the HVAC is a bit jacked since 7
  • Nov 16, 2015
    rclams
    My wife and I were charging at the Flagstaff AZ SC and getting chilled with our NorCal settings so we called the Worldwide Service number. Friendly staffer suggested we dial up the temperature all the way up to HI, and the system responded quickly such that just a few minutes later, we were dialing things back. So try ignoring the numerical temperature setting, and just raise and lower it till you're comfortable. A half hour later we were in the mountains with 28*F showing as the outdoor temperature and we were fine. ==> Note that when it's really cold outside, the car's windows will be really cold and what was a "perfect" temperature setting in mild weather will not feel warm enough due to radiant heat transfer from your face, neck and hands (and to a lesser extent, clothing and hair) to the windows.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    Cyclone
    So in other words... Under v6.2 we had to ignore the displayed temp when cooling the car and just lower it until we are comfortable (usually 3-4*F lower). Under 7.0, we have to do the same, but for heat; ignore the displayed temp and raise it up until we are comfortable.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    trils0n
    My experience is the heater software is bonkers in 7.0. Last few days have been <50deg F (cold for bay area) and if I set everything to auto, and temp to 80, the car will set fan speed to 2 and blow cold air. If I take manual control of the fanspeed, and set it between 8 and 11 it seems to start blowing warm air. Not hot, like it used to, but lukewarm. Quite uncomfortable. Used to just set it to 72-74 and it would blow hot air, and get uncomfortably warm. Now it almost gets warm, if you set fan speed to 11.

    Getting quite frustrated that Tesla can't seem to make functioning HVAC software. It has always been an exercise in figuring out what the computer does based on different settings and figuring out how to game how the system responds to different settings. Why can't it just work like every single other car? (Although the AC seems better in 7.0 and I actually don't seem like I'm fighting the AC system anymore).
  • Nov 16, 2015
    Cyclone
    When my car was recently serviced, I asked my service center not to upgrade me to v7. They did ask me why and this was one of the points I brought up. Hopefully that helps send a message and Tesla makes a tweak to the HVAC algorithms with the next v7 update.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    Duckjybe
    Heating in version 2.7.106 seems better than 2.7.56. Also it's not blowing cold air unnecessarily on the more moderate days like before.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    AmpedRealtor
    Yah, kind of like the dial or sliding lever that we had in our cars back in the 80s... What amazing software engineers must work for Tesla. Okay I'm just kidding.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    jerry33
    I now have to set it to high when preheating.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    bmah
    You are assuming of course that the "tweak" doesn't make things worse. :)

    With 7.0, it seemed that cooling got better...but now I'm trying now to figure out how to make the heating behave without constant fiddling. This is my first experience with that Model S in cold weather...well at least what passes for cold here in the SF Bay Area. Never had to do this on my Prius (stop laughing folks)...on that car I could keep the same HVAC settings for an entire season.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    fluxemag
    I had a day where my heat completely stopped working with V7. It was blowing air conditioning even at HI for 20 minutes. After I got home I plugged in and the heat started working. The car was fully charged when the heat wasn't turning on and I tried several steering wheel reboots. It's been a week and everything is working as "normal".
  • Nov 16, 2015
    BozieBeMe2
    I had the cabin temp on 75 degrees today and was very surprised to find that the cabin was getting colder, (outside temp - 43).
    Turning the fan up only produced cold air and it didn't matter if the heater was set on re-circulate or blend.
    I could hear the fan making more noise as I turned the fan setting up, but the air flow was minor to none. I checked the center vents and the air was coming out but not as fast as it should on 11!
    I switched the air flow to the floor and the flow was almost zero. I switched it to the defroster and it was a medium flow but not an 11.
    I could feel the cabin was producing a sense of heat around my head but certainly wasn't producing any heated air from any vents, especially the floor.
    As noted, the air speed was changing rates but it didn't change any of the vent selections, at least, not that I could sense it because the air flow was so weak. Even the air flow from the console, to back seat vents was very weak.
    The air conditioner worked very good this summer, so this part of the HVAC system worries me.
    My feet and legs were telling me that riding in the Tesla this winter, isn't going to be very comfortable, so until Tesla fixes this issue, it looks like I better bundle up!!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Exactly! I thought I was imagining the 'radiant heat' thing. I couldn't tell where the heat was coming from all I knew was my feet and legs were very uncomfortable.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    Duckjybe
    Let us know the version of 7.0 you are on please.
  • Nov 16, 2015
    eye.surgeon
    I'm on the first autopilot 7 release, whichever that is, on VIN 63623 S85, I noticed the temps now reflect reality, fan speed is lower, but it still heats up fine if you turn the temp up over 78 or so. Maybe different models are having the issue and some aren't?
  • Nov 16, 2015
    cwave1
    I have version 2.7.56 and it has been around 8 degrees Celsius here recently. Like others, since getting v7 I have noticed that what was comfortable around 19 C previously, now needed to be around 22 C to feel the same.

    That was until today. When I got in the car this morning I experienced the same behavior as Bozie. I tried turning the heat all the way up and even tried the HI front defrost and just received more cold air. I also tried rebooting with no luck.

    I'll be calling service tomorrow morning and will post back here once I find out what is wrong.
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