Apr 5, 2016
Edmond That is a fussy little bugger, isn't it? I have to use my Coil glasses, although that doesn't help my shaking sausage-fingers.
Can't see anything in that...�
Apr 5, 2016
satoshi That was deliberate.�
Apr 5, 2016
Edmond Oh? Then what was the point in putting it up? I thought it was an update.�
Apr 5, 2016
satoshi It was an update, not a very useful update, but an update none the less... I haven't gotten anywhere useful as far as getting root is concerned, but am still working on it... Even if I had, I wouldn't be posting details of how it was achieved just proof that it was achieved.
It basically is stating "I haven't fallen off a cliff, been run over by a bus, or been kidnapped by Tesla..."
... yet...�
Apr 5, 2016
Edmond Well, at least I commend you for reaching out to feel and test the sides of the pipe we're all sliding down. Most people are too afraid to do that. You can't learn unless you test. (others)�
Apr 5, 2016
ElectricLove Excellent, I've got my salvage Model S off the auction block here and going through a similar process! I'll post more photos and explorations later after I get to spend some time with her...
Current status is; replaced pyrofuse, jumped HVIL safety loop, will turn on and go into D/R but will not charge... RED light and locked port... So sad, it was "almost" easy (electrically)...
If any of you guys who were mentioning airbags have any side-curtain airbags, let me know! I also need them... But that is the only ones I need, the rest are intact...�
Apr 6, 2016
Spiderz Did you check if your HV battery has any damage from bottom? hit?
If your front airbags are intact that means you have a back or side hit car. Check if the charging port is Ok and other related wiring...�
Apr 6, 2016
ElectricLove Definitely no damage to the ESS, damage was relatively light and on side, did not effect skirts, only doors and fenders (and at that, only barely). Wiring appears to be all intact, the vehicle WILL go into drive/reverse and move on its own power but not charge.... I'm thinking a fault in the HVIL loop that goes to DC/DC, Chargers and HVAC perhaps? Potentially these symptoms could be from a leakage to ground on that ESS-BUS which is causing it to turn off...
If I could get root access I'd be able to diagnose it really quickly, so far I can establish communications with everything but can't get passed finding the information needed to access via SSH, I need to figure that part out to really be successful with this car (especially when Tesla will refuse servicing unless I have it go through their inspection)...�
Apr 6, 2016
satoshi ElectricLove, I have an anonymous source of information I'd like to share with you via PM, but the forum is telling me I can't send you a PM.�
Apr 6, 2016
ElectricLove Hopefully this works and doesn't result in a ton of spam, haha...
srschere at asu dot edu�
Apr 7, 2016
Spiderz @ElectricLove, without diag mode, I think it would be difficult to find out the root cause of that. If possible, bring down the battery and check its wattage. Did you also check all the fuses?
�
Apr 7, 2016
ElectricLove You think BMS fuse could be blown? I haven't checked any fuses yet, other than Pyro...�
Apr 8, 2016
ElectricLove All fuses were tested fine, except for F92, the 30A fuse inline with pyrofuse, that fuse is blown... Going to jump this fuse and pyrofuse and test again today after 12V battery is charged back up... I'm wondering though, anyone know where the Rear safety cut loop is?�
Apr 8, 2016
FlasherZ Just behind the left rear door, ahead of the left fender well. We're advised to use a circular saw to cut into the aluminum of the rear door frame to sever the connection.
That said, earlier cars didn't have them, this was introduced in 2014 and later cars. Open the left-rear door and you should see a sticker attached to the car's body (not the door) that tells first responders where to cut.�
Apr 8, 2016
ElectricLove Oh, so if the first responder doesn't cut through the body to cut the loop, it would still be intact, yes?�
Apr 9, 2016
ElectricLove So, I think I've got the symptoms more "nailed down", there is actually no drive system fault in place (other than Airbag warning and Parking Assistance warning, both sensible) UNTIL I press open charge port and then as soon as I press "unlock charge port" there are a few clicks and the system "goes down", more errors pop up that pertain the drivability of the vehicle and also declare that it won't charge... Something is happening when the car goes to initialize the charging process, this something is blocking the car from charging and also making the car go into a protected mode altogether...
Anyone with ideas to try? I'm sorta stuck now with trying to figure this out...�
Apr 9, 2016
FlasherZ I would say that *should* be still intact, provided that the impact didn't occur on the driver's side rear of the car. If it did, there could have been some damage that pulled the loop loose or severed it..�
Apr 10, 2016
satoshi �
Apr 11, 2016
satoshi In other news:
Looking at some wiring diagrams my hunch that a lot of faults thrown actually just surround the DCDC converter not working seems to be accurate, only way to find out is by actually fixing the DCDC problem.
That said, getting the touchscreen video cable working would be really helpful for that, so I have to wait for some connector tabs to arrive in the mail.�
Apr 11, 2016
ElectricLove I put mine into factory mode as well... Revealing a lot of 12V problems, but the battery is already jumped out with some solid lithium ones... I'm thinking the DC/DC on mine is also having problems? Charger is seeing less than 12V from it and I think this is the problem my car is having... Checked all HVIL points and secured everything, also checked isolation resistance (both manually and in diag screens) which is fine... I did, briefly though, see the 12V battery being charged by the car (according to diag it was pushing 20-30A into the battery)...�
Apr 11, 2016
Spiderz Did you use a good pyrofuse?�
Apr 11, 2016
Spiderz DC to DC converter does not go bad that fast.. check your pyrofuse. I have seen incidents where this fuse can cause such alerts..�
Apr 11, 2016
satoshi I have a factory new pyrofuse installed, and the dcdc converter is literally not getting a hwid assigned to it upon boot. There's something to troubleshoot there, what specifically I won't know until I fix my video cable. (Which I have been working on, but nothing successful yet).�
Apr 12, 2016
ElectricLove I did use a good pyrofuse...
YAY! As of last night I got it charging again, it was a combination of 3 things happening simultaneously that I just finally got solved all at the same time:
1. Insufficient 12V power (charging circuit 12V was dropping to 11V-ish upon charge port opening); removed the standard 12V battery (I'm sure its been said a million times but HORRIBLE location), used jumpers to a Lithium 12.8V pack and also used my 10A 12V charger, all simultaneously to really "juice" it!
2. HVIL problem; jumped out the old pyrofuse previously, found the 30A fuse in-line with pyro was also blown, so now I jumped both out, I just got replacement pyro so I installed this last night (just plugged it in at least) but left that small portion of the circuit jumped out.
3. Cut wire loop was inappropriately previously repaired/wired... They wired from 1-4 and 2-3, no idea why the vehicle was still able to drive off the trailer when it was towed to me (though very thankful since I don't have a forklift lying around!); put in a replacement loop (which is wired 1-3 and 2-4)...
After these 3 things were made "right", all is well! Charged it up on my HPWC at 80A (was reclaiming 56 miles per hour of charge!) and vehicle is now sitting with 230+ miles range in the pack... YAHOO! I slept much more easy last night knowing she is going to be ok!
OK, now on to solving my other salvage TESLA's problems! heehee...�
Apr 12, 2016
Edmond Well done, EL.�
Apr 12, 2016
Spiderz Well done. Now look at the logs in Factory mode to understand what else is wrong....�
Apr 12, 2016
Ingineer Yes, the #1 source of confounding faults is by far human induced. You aren't expecting 2 wires in a connector to spontaneously swap themselves!
FYI, a bad IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which is a little module mounted on the negative post of the 12v battery, can cause the DC-DC to not appear to work. It's also normal for the DC-DC to not return a HWID.�
Apr 13, 2016
satoshi Replaced the video cable, and am having mixed results, when it is not seated firmly, I get a black "nothing" with the backlight lit, but touching the various UI points will still operate various functions of the car. So if I push where the AC button would be the AC turns on, volume buttons, same deal.
When it is seated firmly we get "RAVE MODE":
At the moment, electrical tape is what is holding the replacement FFC cable to the connector, I have found what the precise connector is on mouser, and ordered replacements so I can get a more secure connection, but until those arrive this is the best that I've been getting thus far.
Also on order, managed to convince the original manufacturer of the video cable to send me 2 samples... shipping was unfavorable, but if it's the exact same cable, and it gets my MCU working again... probably worth spending a little extra on that than buying a whole new MCU...
Anyone else have ideas?
Against my better judgement, I'm tweeting this link to Elon... hopefully he gets a laugh.�
Apr 13, 2016
ElectricLove That series of colors is exactly what happens when you totally remove and reinstall the MCU. However it is supposed to go through all the colors and then finally boot up at the end (at least this is what happens when I do the process). Being that yours is going through the screen self-test it may be the case that you actually have a good connection and the lack of image has to do with a corrupt gpu driver or gpu hardware or something like that...�
Apr 13, 2016
satoshi That's what I said, but WK057 suggested that if I was able to get UI interactivity that it was video cable related. He suggested poking the area that would be the camera input, and the FPGA would display the camera regardless of GPU output.
It makes more sense that the GPU driver is corrupted as I was interacting with the APX mode port prior to getting factory mode.�
Apr 17, 2016
satoshi Parts that have arrived but aren't installed:
Replacement suspension knuckle & wheel hub (new brake disk needed to be sourced yet).
Left Headlight & Fog light
Whole bunch of parts came on Friday:
Replacement sliding pano-roof glass.
Replacement Radiator Support
Replacement Left-Hand condensor & fan
Parts on the way:
Bumper cover replacement
Brake Caliper
Passenger Knee & Dash Airbags
Replacement wheel rim & tire
Left Fender Replacement.
Higher Quality FFC Cables
My room is now a sea of bubble wrap...
Pano-roof glass won't actually be installed until we are closer to salvage inspection ready. Only bought it because one was going for insanely cheap.
Radiator Support, condensor, fan will be installed once we move the car to the shed. We will move the car to the shed when new wheel rim & tire arrive.
Connector snaps came, but upon closer inspection of the existing ffc cable one of the pins rubbed off when I tried to transfer the backers... in the future I won't transfer the backers.�
Apr 17, 2016
Hogfighter Good luck Satoshi!�
Apr 21, 2016
satoshi LVDS FFC Connectors - Molex
I'm pretty confident this is the connector in question, if only I can find an FFC cable to use with it...�
May 5, 2016
satoshi So we're looking to move the car into our backyard shed.
That's where all the fun tools are at, and also allows me to work on stuff day/night without worry of weather.
Then also, there's the lack of a need to use a car cover to keep the car "out of sight" to prevent a particular neighbor from reporting us.
So to do this, we need the car in "tow mode", but that's a bit complicated to accomplish when your MCU is not displaying anything and you don't have the touchscreen GUI memorized well enough to just poke the buttons without the GUI displaying.
HOWEVER! I found alternative ways to just put the car in neutral. This released the parking break (I could hear it disengage). So now we can most likely tow it.
Put on a tire, but noticed the supension is a little off... then realized this is because the control arms are disconnected from the left knuckle.
Also noticed that the left suspension knuckle is not bent, but CRACKED (considering the thickness of the metal of these things, that's some impressive force).
Since it's a bit of a hassle to replace such a knuckle, going to try and tow it with the broken knuckle, and then do a bunch of major replacements/repairs in the shed/shop.
Got a replacement left fender... y'know the side damage underneath the A-pillar doesn't look as bad when it's hidden behind a fender
Recently the car's been having some trouble starting up among other things, given that the car has been saying "replace the 12V battery" it's proably the 12V battery, and sure enough when you let the car sit without a constant battery charger hooked up the Battery is only producing 3V which I didn't even know a lead-acid battery could get that low.
So for the moment, going to re-charge that battery so that we have enough power to last us the tow, but then afterward I got myself a 1.2kW 12V power supply that will provide the car some more reliable juice than what the battery has been attempting.�
May 5, 2016
HyperMiler Where is the knuckle broken? Picture available?�
May 5, 2016
satoshi Thought I had one already taken, but as it's dark out I'll take another one for you, but the mis-alignment most likely has to do with the control arms not being properly inserted.�
May 31, 2016
Btr_ftw Its been far too long, need some updates here.�
May 31, 2016
apacheguy How does one enter factory mode without root?�
May 31, 2016
satoshi Stated in the beginning, if people want more frequent updates, the IRC channel is the best source. The, uh, "unique personalities" on this forum aren't really all that encouraging.
Revealing that info publicly would be a bad idea for many reasons.
---
As requested an update:
Mostly been focusing on repairing the video connection I broke while tinkering with the MCU.
In order to repair the connection, I have to solder 30AWG wire to 0.3mm traces and do so about 30 times. Bought replacement connectors, and it certainly is time consuming.
The setup:
Broken connector connections:
First wire:
Halfway of soldering wire to traces:
Present Status:
�
May 31, 2016
satoshi Oh, also I modified a power supply to provide more current so I'm not constantly buying and replacing dead 12V batteries:
Oh! I discovered the absence of safety cut loop in frunk, so that needs to be replaced too.
I feel it would be dishonest if I didn't mention my slither.io addiction:
And the fact I binge watched House of Cards from episode one thru the end of season 4 in recent past...�
Jun 1, 2016
satoshi 
�
Jun 6, 2016
satoshi Just an entertaining thought:
What if I found a Delorean shell, and threw all the tesla guts in there?
Finding a stripped out delorean shell would probably be prohibitively expensive, but it certainly would be an amazing novelty electric car.
Not to mention getting to 88mph would be ridiculously easy.�
Jun 7, 2016
Btr_ftw Or what if you bought a stock model S shell that didnt need bodywork?
�
Jun 7, 2016
Microfrost The TesLorean, TesLorean � DeLorean Electric Conversion Blog�
Jun 8, 2016
satoshi I've told you I'm open to the idea multiple times now, just keep stripping out the car and then send me an offer and we'll negotiate.�
Jun 8, 2016
Drewflux Hmm straight bodywork would make life easier. Although you will have to find a way to hide two vehicles from the neighbour�
Jun 8, 2016
satoshi This be why his shell is an alright idea... saves me the effort of replacing a b-pillar, or front end weld and doing necessary engineering simulation to verify its structural integrity.
If the price is right it saves a lot of time and effort although is less educational.�
Jun 8, 2016
satoshi In other news, my dad bought a salvage KIA and all it needed was a bumper to get working.
He replaced the bumper, and my mom has about as much awareness & understanding of cars as roadkill and threw away the broken bumper cover I still needed parts from rather than throwing away the KIA's old bumper cover...
�
Jun 13, 2016
satoshi So I finished my attempt at a repair of the connector:
Unsurprisingly, it didn't work. Shortly thereafter I began to work on getting the car to become towable. Disabled the parking brakes by putting 12V on the necessary pins, and then we attempted to tow it, but the wheels still wouldn't turn. As far as we could tell it's likely the front axel is broken. In the process of reconnecting the MCU, something shorted out and the magic smoke was released thoroughly putting that MCU into it's grave (My guess is some sweat dripped off my hand at an inopportune moment).
Later, when my health isn't giving me problems (recently was hospitalized due to appendicitis), I will inspect the front axel more thoroughly.
However, regardless of what I find it has become apparent that this particular salvage will become too expensive & time consuming to revive.
So I will be parting it out: Satosh Surrenders: Parting out S85
It is possible that after selling everything that I might decide to give it a 2nd attempt, but that depends on how much money is raised.�
Jun 13, 2016
GoTslaGo Good try, I'm sure the experience was invaluable. Best of luck!�
Jun 14, 2016
Btr_ftw Front axle? Do you have a dual motor car?
U sure you want to part it out and not just sell as a whole? Depending on your price entry point it might be better that way.
That being said if you DO decide to fix I have a front subframe.�
Jun 14, 2016
Ingineer What happens if a Tesla has been sitting for a long time is the brake pads rust to the rotors. You might have to put extra force on the car to break it loose. A tow strap and another vehicle can be used to great effect.
What in the MCU let the smoke out?�
Jun 15, 2016
Btr_ftw how am I supposed to be entertained now?�
Jun 16, 2016
Dithermaster Long time? Overnight for me! If it rains, the next morning when I back out of the garage there is always a big crunch as the pad dis-engage.�
Jun 17, 2016
satoshi It'd take me some time to look for where the damage occurred, but basically sweat dripped off my arm and short circuited something.
On the topic of brake pads rusting to the rotors, we dragged the thing for about like 15 feet or so being towed by tow straps by my dad's truck, the tires just wouldn't move! They skidded along on the driveway.
It's certainly a valid thought to remove all brake calipers and see if that solves the problem, but after having done some math I'm curious if parting out the car will actually be the smarter move.�
Jun 17, 2016
satoshi I do not have a dual motor, I was just guessing at what might be bent/broken/causing the problem I have not looked yet at the specifics yet.
I'll contact you for information if the decision gets reversed, but after having done some math... it's unlikely.
I posted like once a month?...�
Jun 17, 2016
rypalmer You could try negotiating with him to buy some parts.�
Jun 17, 2016
Ingineer Are you 100% sure you disengaged the electric calipers?�
Jun 17, 2016
sorka Where did you get the parts from?�
Jun 17, 2016
satoshi Pro tip: Condescension is going to always bring out the worst in negotiations.
�
Jul 3, 2016
satoshi Removed the battery:
Before:
After:
�
Jul 4, 2016
Btr_ftw Why? Parting out?
While you were under there did you check suspension?�
Jul 8, 2016
satoshi Yes the suspension is an issue. As a matter of fact after removing the battery the car now being 1,300 lbs lighter was able to be towed to our car workshop.
That said major reason is: Car is getting too expensive to repair for my preferences and threshold. I have a very limited financial ability to work on this. I've maxed out all reasonable financial options.
Furthermore, I just remembered that I eventually want to work in Japan wherein I either don't want a Model S because it is too big (model 3 would probably be more appropriate) or don't want a car at all because public transportation there is perfect.
So it's pretty much entirely financial. I certainly would have done an FEA if I had gotten that far (On that note, you all worried about something I knew I was very very far down the road when we hadn't even been able to get the car to move without skidding while being towed. That's really poor project management), and had I gotten so far as to repair the frame damage it wouldn't have been a problem.
Again real problem is the car was quickly getting more expensive than a CPO and no longer became a financially logical project to maintain.
I'll probably just barely make back what I borrowed, and learned a lot about Tesla's designs... and how much of a PITA it is to remove that battery (Seriously you did that twice!?).
I'll maybe consider continue the project if you send me a free shell with everything stripped except suspension. If it's that important that I continue, but otherwise I'm going to Japan on July 14th thru September 2nd to take a break from the insanity that is the US.�
Jul 12, 2016
Btr_ftw Welp.
These cars arent easy all the time but can be quite rewarding!
Keep us informed with what you decide.�
Aug 17, 2016
satoshi After having driven around the countryside of Japan for a couple of weeks... I have lost all interest in a model S. Car is too big to be practical in my opinion.
While I have seen 1 model S driving around Tokyo, if I had the money I wouldn't get it.
Model 3? Maybe, depends on how Tesla delivers and if they resolve their reliability issues.�
Aug 17, 2016
scaesare Maybe you'll be able to get a Japanese version of the Bolt.�
Aug 17, 2016
CuriousG Too big to be practical? Depends on where you live and what you want to do with it. Is it practical in Japan? Hardly. Same goes for SF or NY. Yes it felt bigger when I first drove it but I got used to it and it doesn't bother me at all now. This coming from a MINI Cooper and sports coupe. I can tell you it's a lot more practical in carrying things compared to my other cars.�
1/1/2015
guest So I'm back in the US.
Selling parts for those who need them.
Also, next bad idea: Let's take the battery and drive unit (and other electrical parts) and throw it into my prius! (The prius would likely also need modification to hold everything).
Alright, bring on the hate posts.�
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