Feb 27, 2014
jeremyz Marco, instead of liquid cooling the existing PEM, just buy a wrecked Model S and stick the motor, inverter and gearbox from that in your Roadster. You're going to need to rotate the mounts 90 degrees, but it looks like it might fit. I'm sure it will be easy for you.�
Feb 27, 2014
marco2228 Jory, great info, thanks. I didn't know this cooling fluid. I'll see if I can get my hands on the other PEM.
I think the megapoles only have off the shelf parts on them and yes, they are identical, you can swap them between the phases. I did that when I was looking for an error on one of the megapoles.
The IGBT's are IXGX72 something (they were just under $10)... and are driven by an IGBT driver (TC4451).
No wayI can't do it to this signature Roadster
I had a similar idea already, but there are too less Model S in Europe and even wrecked, they are too expensive for playing around with them.
I sent CarboTech an email for the brakes. This is the reason for their statement on the phone:
�
Feb 27, 2014
PV4EV That's a curious comment for Carbotech to make.
Was this for Bobcat 1521's or AX6's ?
I ask because Carbotech will happily sell both types to Lotus Elise owners in the UK .. and yet we're all supposed to obey the same EU ECER90 directive . . .�
Feb 27, 2014
tom66 Really surprised to see a Microchip part in a Tesla -- I've always thought of Microchip as a bit niche. A 12A IGBT driver. That's insane. I didn't know they made them that high current. I suppose, with huge gate charge comes huge driver requirements
These devices? IXGX120N60B http://datasheet.octopart.com/IXGX120N60B-IXYS-datasheet-11760468.pdf About $10 a piece 10kunits, so probably costing Tesla around $840 in IGBT per car, which is dirt cheap for what they are.
Each driver controls 7 IGBTs, 350nC/FET, Q=CV, C=23nF/FET (@18V drive), so it's driving 160nF @ 32kHz... that's a pretty heavy load there, explains why there's four of the ICs!
Marco, did you replace the driver when replacing the IGBTs? It's highly recommended to, because IGBT failure can damage the driver.�
Feb 27, 2014
Doug_G Nah, people use Microchip components all the time. They don't just make PICs.�
Feb 27, 2014
tom66 Yes, I use them all the time in my home boards, but at work, we tend to use Linear, TI and Maxim (rarely.) Microchip usually pop up as an EEPROM. We don't use PICs at all (except in legacy designs, and we usually try to figure out how to replace it...) -- ARM STM32 for most, or STM8 for really low end, and Freescale i.MX for anything running Linux. Atmel is banned due to supply issues and a board where the customer waited 4 months because of no stock of a certain AVR.
Just a nice endorsement for Microchip there, surprised they did not attempt to market it. (IXYS mention they sell IGBTs to Tesla in their PR occasionally.)�
Feb 27, 2014
Doug_G Getting off topic, but I just had to share this because our Microchip rep sent me this TODAY (was PDF):
I've been in a worse situation with Motorola processors, where we had to redesign a board because they screwed up a die shrink cycle and when GM got wind of it they bought every part in existence. Texas Instruments is also known for "when the going gets tough, we go away." We actually use a lot of Atmel parts, some ATMEGA and some ARM, but we mostly use soft core processors in FPGAs (used to use Lattice but now Xilinx). We were forced to use a TI ARM on one recent project for driver compatibility reasons.
Now let's get back on topic!�
Mar 6, 2014
marco2228 The car is at the body shop now. But they won't be able to begin working on it within the next week.
Well, more time to organize all the stuff for the homogolation to get it street legal in Germany.
Does anyone have any official data from the 1.5 Roadster, like gross vehicle weight, nominal power, etc?
Tesla uses a 72 A IGBT from IXYS, the IXGX72N60B3H1.
Yes, I replaced the driver, too.�
Mar 6, 2014
mg012 Marco,
I'm impressed with all the work you have done to rebuild this roadster. I'm curious though, do you now own this roadster? Did I miss a post where you were able to buy the roadster from that "friend" who bought it out from under you?�
Mar 6, 2014
djp Should be in the owner's manual, here's a link:
Tesla Owners Manual
Nice work on the re-build!�
Mar 6, 2014
marco2228 Yes, I've finally been able to buy it, because he didn't find the error.
Thanks djp, that might help.
If anyone knows of a 1.5 Roadster that is street legal in Europe, please send him/her a link to this thread or as an alternative, I could give you my contact info by PN!! Thanks
I know there are some of them, but don't know one in person.�
Mar 6, 2014
richkae Hey Marco, I would love to buy the shop manuals/videos you write/record about repairing the Roadster.
I would understand if they were rough, given that you would be competing with vacuum.�
Mar 10, 2014
PV1 Errors I saw were:
1. Backup power supply service required
2. Park lock problem. Vehicle may be free-rolling.
3. Check left front signal bulb
4. Check left rear signal bulb
5. Airbag system service required
6. Before starting, charge port door must be closed.
Plus a reminder message:
1. Engage hand brake when vehicle is parked.
When I looked at the car, it had about a quarter charge with 62 miles range. Later on, I believe after it was relisted, they pulled the service plug and was down to 1/8 charge and I believe 11 miles range. The coolant pump was cycling while I was there. The charge connector was intact, though the port was gone. They may have been able to charge it, but it's good that they didn't.
Awesome job in repairing this Roadster. Can't wait until it's back on the road.�
Mar 14, 2014
lmore Great thread! Since you studied the PEM, perhaps you could tell how to modify the roadster so we can charge at 240 Volts using standard cable (without using a pilot signal)? I assume since it is made for the American market, it will default to 110 Volts.�
Mar 14, 2014
marco2228 I'll keep that idea in mind, if I get bored somewhen
Cool, thanks!!
I think #1 is still there. Error ID is 420. It shows up everytime, you take out the Service disconnect and insert it again. The error disappears, when you restart the APS in the service menu.
That's strange on #5, I never got an Airbag error massage even though there are no airbags installed, yet.
I think you wrote about the 62 miles somewhere at the beginning of this thread, which made me send someone to inspect the car
I told them to remove the service disconnect. Otherwise the batterie wouldn't have survived the trip to Germany. Was a bit surprised to see photos of it on the auction page later that day.
That's exactly where I ve been working on the last couple days, because the Roadster is at the bodyshop, now. The device works, but has to be verified and tested in the car. When it doesn't detect an external Control Pilot, it generates its own CP with regard to the attached cables current limit.
At first I wanted to put it into the PEM, but it needs an extra wire to the chargeport (to pass through the signal for detecting the charging cables current capability) and I don't want to drill an hole into the PEM or change the connector from PEM to the chargeport.
The chargeport connector has to be replaced with a J1772 or European Type 2 socket becuase it needs an extra pin there too.
No real progress on the car the last days. I'll probably take it to a different bodyshop. They didn't even start after having it there for two weeks now^^�
Mar 14, 2014
hcsharp I'm a little confused by this. If I understand you correctly, you are trying to generate your own pilot signal (CP) when there isn't one based on the attached cable's current limit. That's essentially what the UMC does. Now you are trying to make the UMC internal to the PEM. That will create a lot of problems. The first of which is that you can't use the stock charging inlet, but that's minor compared to the safety issues. You also can't use any of the standard 62196-2 charging cables. You can only ever use your own DIY charging cable. You could never sell the car legally because it would be out of compliance with 62196. It would also be difficult to charge from any public charging station because you would have to measure the incoming pilot and make sure your own CP doesn't exceed that. Too much room for error and not very practical.
I think Imore was referring to default charging at 230v with no pilot signal. The US spec roadsters are designed to charge at 15A if they detect 110v and the pilot signal is grounded, but I don't believe it will do this with 240v. I'm pretty sure the European Roadsters will charge at 13A 230v with pilot grounded. You can try it and see what happens. Ground the pilot signal and then supply 230v and see what happens but I suspect you will need the EU firmware.�
Mar 14, 2014
marco2228 I've been in a hurry earlier when I was writing the post, maybe my hands didn't write what my head thought
I basically migrated Martin Eberhards Foundry Charger to an Arduino Nano board and added some changes:
-Instead of an diode for recognizing the current capability of the adapter cable, I use an resistor between protective earth and the Proximity Pilot (1k5 = 16 A, 220R = 32 A and 100R for 63 A)
-Yes, the Roadster Connector has to be replaced by an EU Spec Type 2 connector or an J1772 connector because it needs an additional pin
-Probably the most important change and maybe an error source: I added a relay, which acts as a bypass of the "internal EVSE". When an external CP is detected, the Arduino only activates the relay and waits until the external CP disappears.
With the pilot grounded and at 230 V, the US Roadster 1.5 doesn't charge at all. Just for a test to figure out if theres another error in the PEM or if it's just the US Firmware, that prevented the Roadster to start charging, I put an function generator (�12 V, 1 kHz and with an 1k resistor in series) on the pilot line and the roadster started charging at 30 A. The 50 % duty cycle of the generator is recognized as an 30 A capable power outlet.�
Mar 14, 2014
ernst And that is just the case. There is no regular "European" software that tesla is giving out to a 1.5 owner here. A few of the options that you can chose, for instance break lights when regen slows down the car and TPMS yes or no, are selectable by a tesla mechanic only can not be saved with the 1.5 only for the 2.X. So is the the HID head light check. For the EU only 25 watt lights are allowed for the roadster (no mandatory wash or hight adjustment) so the software is adjusted for the 2.X only never for the 1.5. There are these little differences in Europe as explained by mr Tarantino. Just learned from the other thread that the mirrors are differed on the drivers side. Back in the day they told me that the were not.�
Apr 3, 2014
marco2228 The car is still at the body shop, but they finally started working on it and I'll probably get it back next week.
Does anyone know where one can find this sticker on the car?
�
Apr 3, 2014
wiztecy I believe that's around the drivers side door. If you open the door I believe its on the body to the right (main body panel).�
Apr 3, 2014
wiztecy I just checked, that sticker is actually affixed * TO * the drivers side door, back facing panel.
�
Apr 6, 2014
marco2228 OK, thanks Dennis.
#34 got a new door, so no surprise that I didn't find it.
Have been at the body shop yesterday. We were finally able to attach the left body panel... after 5 weeks of waiting.
�
Apr 6, 2014
dhrivnak Thanks Marco for letting us follow your progress.�
Apr 6, 2014
bart513 Marco. Don't forget to put in the soundproofing while it's naked!�
Apr 6, 2014
dhrivnak I agree a nice coating of Dynamat will go a long way to a more enjoyable ride. it looks like it will be easy to add it at this stage.�
Apr 7, 2014
marco2228 Thanks for the reminder.
Even though it's not #1 on my list, it's still on there. When I get the car back, the first thing I'll do is to put the Subwoofer and the ESS back into the car because I don't like having the ESS sit on three pallets..
Then the Dynamate will finally find its way into the Roadster
P.s.: What does Tesla use for the splashguards? Looks like some kind of fleece on some pictures?�
Apr 7, 2014
wiztecy The 1.5 inner fenders are the standard plastic fenders, not fleece / cloth like the one above. Possibly that was something put in the later 2.x models to help deaden the road noise....
�
Apr 7, 2014
Fluke My 1.5 (#344) has the fleece/felt wheel arch liners.�
Apr 7, 2014
wiztecy Interesting data-point, #268 does not and has the plastic inners front/rear. Curious where the cutoff is.�
Apr 7, 2014
dhrivnak The fleece liners are part of the sound reduction package 1. The sound reduction 1 was standard on 2.0 and better models. But if you had the sound reduction 1 installed installed on a 1.5 like I did then they replace the front plastic liners with the stiff fleece ones.�
May 2, 2014
HighHopes any chance you have more pictures of the dissembled power stage? i would LOVE to see what part number is written on those round black can shaped capacitors, what the metal bus bar structure looks like on other side of IGBT power stage. thanks so much for your share, really exciting to see this technology!�
May 7, 2014
marco2228 No update for exactly a month, now.
The 1st paintshop wasn't able to paint the Roadster (it hadn't been painted after almost two month time). Well I've been really busy anyway, but two month are WAY too much. So I told them to return it and since last friday it's in a different body shop to get its beautiful black color. BTW I changed the color from Tesla jet black to a metallic black, BMW Saphir Black to be exact, which should be way less sensitive. I set the deadline to this saturday, but they told me I'll get it back on Friday, so there are only two nights left, until it's christmas
I only had the car for a day, so I haven't been able to do much at it. Only started to put some dynamite in.
Now as I will start assembling the car and there has been so many wishes for writing a repair manual, I am thinking of setting up a wiki or so with some useful informations, data (dimensions of the dynamat e.g.) and working steps to disassemble / reassemble all the parts, which are off the car right now. Not sure yet, if doing this by setting up a wiki is the best idea or there's some better solution. I'm open to suggestions.
Tesla doesn't support exported cars, so I have to do some expensive tests (e.g. EMC/EMI) for having the car approved in Germany, I am thinking of setting up a donation system to get some monetary reward for the time I put into the wiki, which I will use for these (actually stupid and unnecessary) tests.
What do you think
-of the whole idea
-should be covered in the "repair" manual
-would be the best way to set it up
What I don't wanna do is to hack the CAN bus.�
May 7, 2014
dhrivnak I would be willing to "donate" to the cause as I really hope to keep my Roadster for MANY more years and I normally perform all my own maintenance. But I hesitate to dig in without any reference material. I guess what concerns me the most is being able to repair the ESS (Battery) and the PEM. Most other things one can figure out.�
May 7, 2014
hcsharp I would contribute knowledge and small amount of cash. I doubt if you would get enough contributions to pay for your time.
ESS and PEM.�
May 10, 2014
marco2228 Ok, I think I'll just keep on posting some details here, but save the work for setting up some wiki or so...
Got the car back and the ESS is back in it.
Couldn't resist and had to drive it for some meters, didn't drive it before, since one of the drive shaft was damaged in the accident.
�
May 10, 2014
PV4EV I too would be willing to make a donation for this information, for all the same reasons you've just mentioned
As these cars get older and the Model S, Model X, S 4wd, Gen 3 etc roll out I fear that Roadsters might get sidelined and its therefore important to build up a knowledge base for long term maintenance.�
May 15, 2014
Ghenghis Khan Marco, can you identify where the 100watt constant drain happens in the roadster electronics? maybe improve the design to stop that horrendous vampire drain.
If that could be done I think many owners would be interested in such an upgrade. it eats up 1000watt worth of solar panels just to feed that vampire load.�
May 15, 2014
dhrivnak I do not see anywhere near this drain in my 1.5 Roadster. I lose about 300 watts/day or about 12 watts/hour. I figure it would take at least 6 months for my battery to drain.�
May 15, 2014
wiztecy I agree, I don't have much of a vampire drain as well and much of what does drain is from the coolant circulation pump and usual systems load.�
May 17, 2014
hcsharp How did you determine or measure a 100W constant drain? I have a version 2.5 and lose about 250 - 300 W-hrs per day in line with the previous 2 posts. I think most of that is from internal leakage through the battery itself and that the actual electronic drain is very small. If you live where it's quite hot then you will lose more from periodic automatic battery cooling. Curious how you measured 100 W.�
May 17, 2014
Doug_G I agree with hcsharp. The Roadster's vampire drain is minimal - he's definitely in the right range. When I park it for the winter it takes months for it to drain.�
May 23, 2014
marco2228 @ Ghenghis Khan
I didn't notice a 100 W drain either. What Roadster VIN do you have the drain at?
Finally some useful progress on #34
Unfortunaltey I've a lack of time at the moment and am glad to see some progress at all... so I think I'll write the manual when I take apart the next Roadster, which is not unlikely
�
May 23, 2014
bart513 Marco,
That looks AWESOME!�
May 23, 2014
supersnoop I'll be interested to see how that color looks when you're done. My 760Li was that color, and it just seems like a "big car" color to me. But it did look GEORGOUS when clean and good when dirty. I just don't know if there's enough real estate on the Roadster to get the full beauty of that color.�
May 24, 2014
Mark77a I agree +1
In fact I discussed with another UK Roadster Owner (Kevin), that it may be good to 'group buy' a smashed car for spares/salvage .. as spares are so expensive from tesla, and this would help with understanding / reverse engineering, towards a wiki / manual / 1st hand info. FWIW There is at least one an ex-tesla Technical guy on TMC (eg Supercharged20v, here in UK).
Surely this forum would be the obvious place for a wiki.
Marco you are an absolute star - thanks for sharing your experience AND electronics knowledge....and yes happy to contribute.�
May 31, 2014
marco2228 The frontal area is almost done.
Next steps:
-adjusting the trunk lid (won't be fun
-interior
The car is quite dirty from putting on and pulling off (and again) the body panels, but the color looks great. Well I have to say that because I chose it, but I think it really does.
�
May 31, 2014
AEdennis BRAVO! Well done... Not being very technical, I'm beholden to Tesla for our CPO Roadster... Any progress you guys make and a LOT of courage on my part would allow me to keep my wife's Roadster in the family once Tesla stops supporting the product.... or we'll sell it at that time.
Either way, WOW�
May 31, 2014
dhrivnak Thank you Marco. Looking very good. I have wrestled with trunk alignment and while it looks very simple on the surface it is anything but.�
Jul 31, 2014
marco2228 EMC test -- check.
The drivetrain (wideband measurement) was no problem at all and far below the limit, the DC DC converter (narrowband measurement) was below the limit as well... after some slight modifications.
What's left is the actual road approval test, somewhen in August.
�
Jul 31, 2014
bart513 Marco,
The car looks amazing!!! What is sitting on top in the middle of the dash? Congrats again and great job!�
Jul 31, 2014
AEdennis I wonder if you would be eligible to upgrade the battery pack with the "advertised" 400 mile pack?�
Aug 1, 2014
Mark77a Well done !!!
you have done an amazing job (and in the process demystified a lot about the roadster).
any more pictures of the rebuild ? P L E A S E share
Question: Do you have any pictures or description of the nose cone mounting screws ?
I'd like to try and re-align my nose to get more even gaps.�
Aug 1, 2014
TEG It looks like that picture was taken when the top of the dashboard was missing and we were seeing the back side of the gauge cluster.
Was the interior partially stripped down on that outside picture?�
Aug 1, 2014
marco2228 Probably yes, I have no idea, why I shouldn't. Well, the "old" ESS is still good, CAC is approaching 152...
There are plastic shims, which can be put between the fender and the bumper.
Will look for some pics, but it's actually easy to do. I think there are two screws on either side and some in the middle in the very front under the "hood". It should be enough to loosen the screws for the adjustment.
Exactly, it's the gauge cluster.
Yes, the interior was almost completely out of the car and still partially out on the outside picture.�
Sep 16, 2014
Mark77a Thanks Marco I'll have a play
any pix also very welcome - good luck with your project - ACE�
Sep 25, 2014
Chillout Brilliant idea. I would love to contribute with some knowledge and pictures as well as donate.�
Nov 22, 2014
marco2228 Due to some questions, I noticed that I never posted the outcome of the project.
The Roadster is fully approved now. It drove > 3500 km since the repair.
This week I noticed a decrease of 20 km (12,5 miles) ideal range, while CAC increased by 0.1. SOC difference from brick to brick is also ok.
So from my understanding this will probably be caused by the recent temperature drop?�
Nov 22, 2014
dhrivnak Marco GREAT work very impressive. My battery pack sees a drop in ideal miles each winter. This is on top of a a decline of about 3 miles a year.
�
Nov 22, 2014
hcsharp Congrats Marco. Many of us are impressed!
I've lost about 5 miles since early September but my CAC has not changed. Last winter I lost 5 mi and the CAC also dropped. Both recovered with warm weather in the spring. I've come to expect it.
�
Jan 3, 2015
Yoda101 Marco,
This was brilliant work, thanks for sharing.
Please add some pictures of the final completed car.�
Jan 10, 2015
marco2228 Thanks
Took only one picture, yet.
Will take some more, when I find the time and the weather is fine.
�
Jan 10, 2015
AEdennis Looks awesome�
Jan 10, 2015
markwj Nice rescue. Congratulations.�
Jan 10, 2015
wiztecy No doubt, couldn't have landed in better hands!�
Mar 7, 2015
PV1 Wow!! Awesome job repairing #34. Looks better than when we had it at the 2013 car show.�
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét