Nov 22, 2013
gwagen27 I have also been running the Continental DWS Extremes (front and rear) on my 1.5 for the last 8k miles or so. I do not have any TC issues when compared to the AD07's I was running previously. They are MUCH MUCH quieter and work perfectly on my 100+ mile daily commute. Please note that I really do not push the car that hard so I have not tested the Conti's limits....but none-the-less, I am very happy with the tire change.�
Nov 22, 2013
dhrivnak I have gone through two sets of Continental DWS with only minor traction issues. This time I am trying the Michelin Super Sport and traction control was marginal at best. Then I replaced my fronts with Yokohama and the Michelin are happy. I guess new rears with worn fronts are an issue.�
Nov 23, 2013
wiztecy I'll be searching for tires that are going to be as or sticker than the AD0x's, the majority of my commute are on high speed twistiest and I need that confidence as well as the safety margin.�
Dec 6, 2013
Dwalker13 Is possible to upgrade all tires and rims to 18" similar tithe LOTUS EVORA
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Mar 19, 2014
FANGO Just got a call from Tesla about the tires on my 1.5 with 10k miles on them, which seem to be the original tires from the car. They said something about since the tires are so old, they've developed small cracks and are a safety issue, and they're recommending replacement (~$1500). I found the same tires on tirerack for ~$950 shipped (on special, apparently), and of course would be interested in looking into other tires which are cheaper and/or last longer (with working TC and regen), but I find that nothing else shows up on tirerack, so I'm not really able to comparison shop them. At the end of the day, under 1k for a set of tires seems wholly reasonable to me so I'll probably just get the tirerack ones and then have Tesla or some other local tire place install them. Other seasoned Roadster owners: does this seem like a reasonable course of action? Or does anyone have a strong recommendation for other tires in a similar or cheaper price range which last longer and still work with TC/regen (regardless of grip level)? Regen especially...any decrease in regen would not be acceptable to me.�
Mar 19, 2014
Jackyche The continentals DWS didn't work for me when only replacing rears. Worked great for others when all 4 replaced.
I ended up with dunlops on rears as suggested by pantera dude. In stock at discount tires and cheap too. Very minor regen/tc issues.�
Mar 19, 2014
wiztecy Depends how you drive, if you corner fast and hard I'd stay with the AD07 fronts and AD08 rears until another sticky combo that works well together is found. If you're just commuting and going down straights and don't push the Roadster hard in turns you can go the Dunlop or other brand route for the front/rear or just the rears. Just remember that stickier tires allow you to accelerate as well as allow you to stop faster too.
What cracks is Tesla talking about? I know the Yoko's do dry out over time and my original fronts which have 28k on them have cracks on the edges where they slide and roll in turns on the pavement. When they get old they crack. The biggest issue with those cracks (I have) is when it rains and that the compound has hardened won't hold to the road all to well. Also it means I won't be holding to the road as well as when they were new, but since they're on the front the front understeers (especially more now with the Nitron ajustable shocks I upgraded to) which doesn't make it too much of a danger factor.
If you have 10K on your tires, then it sounds the rears are due for a change. I got 12.5k miles on my AD07 rears, and switched to AD08s. I now have 28k. So I have 15.5k on my AD08 rears. I still have 5k left of life in them and on my fronts. My rear camber is very aggressive and setup even more aggressive than stock so my tires will wear more on the inner. The key to long tire life is to roll first off red-lights and then accelerate hard. The initial punch is where TC is trying to negotiate so the tire will snap and wear hard there.
If you have a pic of these cracks it would be nice to see. Also did Tesla state what risk these cracks pose for you?
- - - Updated - - -
Only if it has Tire Learning Capabilities like the 2.x Roadsters like EVsports below
1.5 Roadsters are stuck with the rim/tire combination that work out to the original tire revolutions that came with the Yoko AD07 front and rears on the stock rims.
View attachment 44686�
Mar 19, 2014
FANGO I don't have a picture or anything unfortunately, Tesla just said there were cracks, I think it's probably dried rubber as you said. I brought it in today and got the call around when they were closing up the shop. He said they were radial on the tire, rather than lateral, so I guess they go all around the tire. I don't commute, I don't drive a lot (6k/yr or so), I do like to push it. I have noticed no real problems in the rain, this car has a ridiculous amount of traction, plus it never rains here anyway (twice since I got the car 6 months ago...).
I'd like to upgrade the suspension, I just know I don't want to spend 6k on the Tesla upgrade. I'm nowhere near that Lotus guy in norcal which all you guys talk about for customizing your Roadsters, so I'm not sure how to go about it here, haha.
Tirerack is only showing AD07s front and rear, not AD08s? Are the AD08 rears the standard Tesla equipment? Or is that the "racing tire" the guy on the phone just referred to? He said they were called "Yokohama sport" rather than advan, I always thought the AD07s or whatever I have on there were the upgraded tire on the car anyway. If they're different how do I find them, and are they more expensive/stickier/apparently more durable?
As for the rears being due for a change at 10k, Tesla said the tread depth is fine, but that they are recommending the change mainly just due to age of the tires (which seem to be 6 years old), which they consider a safety issue. So I guess I or the previous owner were pretty easy on the tires after all.�
Mar 19, 2014
Doug_G AD08 is a newer version of AD07. Yokohama still makes the AD07 in the size required for Tesla Roadster and Lotus Elise.
AD08 is unfortunately not available in the size required for the Roadster's front, but it is available in the size for the rear.
AD08 is much cheaper and is readily available, so many Elise and Roadster owners are running AD07 front and AD08 rear. Especially Roadster owners because you go through the rears 3X as fast as the fronts. Tesla does not recommend this configuration, but it works just fine. Many of us (me included) are using this combination.�
Mar 19, 2014
FANGO Excellent, so I would go on tirerack, buy 2 of the the AD08 (R? I can only find AD 08 R in this size) in 225/45R17, and then buy 2 of the AD07 175/55R16, ship them to myself then get them installed by my local tire shop (or Tesla if they're nice enough to), and that will a) be cheaper for the rears (by like $90/tire, nice), b) make rears last longer and c) presumably provide no change in terms of regen or TC? If so, it sounds like I'm going to get out of this for like 800 bucks all told, which is a heck of a lot less than I thought I'd be paying so thank you all for the input!�
Mar 19, 2014
wiztecy The AD08 tires are exactly the same as the AD07 tires but with an updated tire compound that is to be stickier and last longer. So the tire revolutions are the same, that being said you won't have any TC issues. I've never had my TC light come on or turn off due to the AD08. You'll be happy with them, they also have a cooler looking tread pattern. Bummer Yoko didn't make a matching front. Be sure to read up on this thread before mounting your tires and having the tire-shop balance them:
Roadster standard wheel runout - marked?
That's the proper way to balance them per Yokohoma and will save you some lead on balancing which has its advantages.
As for the Nitrons, you can call Rob the Lotus guy (in the Nitron thread) and discuss with him that you're interested in them. He was going to talk to Nitron and have them make a driver's side ABS mount which was the only thing I needed to have done to make them fit. I don't know if they now supply it or not. You also can buy them from him and have him ship them to a person by you where he can advise them on how to install them as well as how to set them up to work on your Roadster. Still stoked I had mine done since my life and the Roadster depend on them. If you're running stocks, which sounds like you are, you have to get rid of those crappy ass shocks! I won't rant on how bad it makes the Roadster handle, feel, and the dangerous situations it can put you in. Between those crappy shocks, the crappy brakes, and the crappy halogen lights I'm like Tesla, did you seriously put all that junk stuff in there!?!? But then I look at everything else they got right in the Roadster and that puts the smile back on my face. Lucky that enthusiasts like ourselves can pool together, discuss, and make things better that were missed. I guess it also just makes us love the car even more
Also the cracks in the tire rubber is from decomposition / drying out due to UV and weather damage. Rob looked at mine and noticed the cracks, he also warned me after seeing the cracks to be very very careful when you drive and corner in the rain for that they'll lose grip when you think they will.�
Mar 20, 2014
Doug_G Yes, all of that is 100% correct. You won't notice any difference between the AD07 and AD08, except the 08's will last longer and are much cheaper.
Tesla won't install the AD08's but they will install the AD07's.
I would recommend being fussy about which garage you use to install the tires. Insist that they use a floor jack to raise the car, and make sure they use the correct jacking points (rear lift point will raise front and back). (Personally I now take the wheels off myself and bring them to the shop.)
Secondly, the tires are low profile and hard to install, and you don't want some ape banging up your rims. Make sure it's a garage you trust, and that they have a good machine that will work well on low profile tires.�
Mar 20, 2014
hcsharp It's interesting to note that on Yokohama's Japanese web site, they list the AD08 R available in size 205/50/R16. If I'm reading the specs right, it looks like it would fit on the front. I've never seen this size for sale in North America. It's available in Japan, Australia, not sure where else.�
Apr 17, 2014
wiztecy Tried pushing to get the AD08 R in any tire size that works for the Roadster front with no luck. Sucks.
When its time to replace my fronts/backs which will be in 2-3k more miles it appears I'm going to stick and go with the AD08 R for $168 from the tire rack for the rears. Still can't believe the mileage I'm getting out of these, 16,500 miles so far. Fronts are at 29k and have tread right above the wear bars.
As for the fronts I'm either going to stick with the stock AD07 (LTS compound) $196 or put an A048 on the front in a larger 195/50-16 size in the LTS compound for $229. Have options for the medium and medium hard compounds as well. There's also a $60 Visa card rebate/gift if 4 qualifying Yokohama tires are purchased before April 30th which the AD08 and A048 qualify for, not the AD07.
Pro's of the AD07 is that it will be better in the rain since it has rain grooves. Its the factory size, I was fairly happy with its performance, has low rolling resistance and a small footprint so I can get maximum range out of the car , I also get a good feel of the road with the 175 size. Cons is that now that I have Nitron shocks/springs I have more understeer in the front which which the small foot print does not address.
Pro's of the A048 is that its stickier than the stock AD07 and wider so that should help address the understeer that I have from the Nitrons. Cons would be that there's no grove in the middle to channel the water accumulated on the Road, so for my daily driver in the winter/raining days this isn't good. Its wider where I'll have a larger foot print and higher rolling resistance, so I'll have reduced range per charge. Also with the tire being wider in the front I may not get the same feel of the road that the 175's gave me. Also the mix of tire compounds between the rear AD08 and front A048 may cause issues, haven't found anyone running this combo when searching the web to get any idea if that will work or not. The Tire Rack says it should since its an LTS compound (Lotus spec). If someone has these tires on their Roadster possibly we could do a swap one day to see how they feel. Let me know if you're down for trying!
I looked at the R888's but looking at the reviews with street/track drivers it doesn't seem like the best compound for the street, takes some time to heat and stick and not that good when temps are cold not to mention driving though water with them. The compound will also wear down way faster in the rears as compared to the AD08's. AD08 has a 180 tread wear rating and the R888s a 100.
Another option would be running the Dunlop Direzza ZII in the 225/45-17 for the rear ($156)[treadwear of 200] and the Dunlop Direzza DZ102 in the 195/50-16 ($85)[treadwear of 460]. Possibly the tread compound is too hard up front for the Roadster to stick properly with the 460 treadwear rating.
I still have a month or so to decide, I'll keep researching to help finalize my decision. Right now it looks like the AD07 fronts and AD08 R rears.�
Apr 17, 2014
Doug_G You don't want to run the A048's in winter conditions. It will damage the compound. They're not designed for freezing temperatures.�
Apr 17, 2014
wiztecy Good point to note. Luckily I don't get that really here in central California. Appears that 14 degrees F is the cutoff as described on the Tire Rack description page for the A048:
"ADVAN A048 tires thus must be stored or used only at temperatures at or above 14�F (-10�C) to maintain performance characteristics and to avoid any damage to the tire or injury to persons or property."�
Apr 17, 2014
strider He's in the San Francisco Bay Area. Freezing temps? What are those?
I'm struggling w/ what to run on the front too. I'm thinking Continental ContiSportContact 2. They have a UTQG of 280 AA A and are offered in the 195/50-16 size. I'm running MPSS's in the rear and they have a 300 treadwear so pretty closely matched.�
Apr 18, 2014
wiztecy I take it you won't be taking the Roadster hard through turns with the 280/300 treadwear rating but doing mostly highway driving. Sucks tires don't have gov't tests on how well they tack on dry tarmac, its when their only on wet. A higher treadwear typically indicates a harder compound and less traction on the road.
For myself, I need to stay with something that holds to the road well. The rear AD08's have a 180 treadwear and I can't complain with the life I pulled out of them. They stick rather well when I push it hard in turns which I do every day over HWY 17, also the stickier the tire the faster you'll be able to brake / decelerate. And on 17, there always can be a crash awaiting for me around any corner. I actually wouldn't mind going a little lower too in tread wear / stickier but worried if I go higher I'm messing with the friction dynamics Lotus designed the Elise for. The LTS compound is already a harder compound (similar to the MH compound) designed for the track/street as compared to the M compound, at least for the A048. Also LTS is lighter since it has a nylon as apposed to polyester sidewall.
So again its all pointing back still to the stupid AD07 fronts for me. I think I'll just have to dial in more camber in the front to address the understeer.�
Apr 21, 2014
strider Yes, my commute is up and down the Peninsula on 101. Only curves I get are on/off ramps.
I'm currently running Toyo Proxes 4's with a 300 treadwear. I do get a ton of understeer that I would like to eliminate but am too cheap to buy adjustable suspension. They seem to be in the sweet spot for treadwear but I just hated how they drove. They just weren't speaking my language if you know what I mean. There doesn't seem to be anything stickier than the AD07's that will work in the wet. So the Conti's should be a little grippier than the Toyo's. Also thought about running R888's and keeping the Toyo's for the winter.�
Apr 23, 2014
supersnoop Just want to add my experience to the mix. I bought my Roadster 1.5 less than a month ago, and it came with a strange set of tires installed. I've got the A048's in 195/50-16 up front, but Kumho Ecsta ASX's (225/45-17) in the rear. While the fronts have a treadwear rating of 80, the rear is 420. Despite the huge difference, I have no problems with the traction control. I have noticed a small amount of oversteer, but I attribute that to the harder compound on the rear slipping.�
Apr 23, 2014
dsm363 AD07 up front and AD08 in the rear seems to be a good standard setup.�
Apr 23, 2014
Doug_G That's what I run on my 2.0, and I do believe that would be TC-friendly for the 1.5.
- - - Updated - - -
Okay, just be careful. Tesla designed the Roadster with a lot of understeer for some good reasons. Power oversteer is one, but the more insidious one is snap oversteer. That's when you let off the throttle and the weight shifts to the front, resulting in the back getting less grip - and if you're pushing the limit of grip in a corner, around you will go. Unless you know how to drive a race car you're at risk of getting yourself in serious trouble!�
Apr 24, 2014
wiztecy Just ordered the AD07 fronts and AD08 R rears. Its the current setup I'm running now but with a worn out and UV beat up AD07 set that's about 6 years old and worn out AD08 (non-R) rear that's 1.5 years old. May softening the front adjustable suspension and removing some or all of the front shims to play with the understeer when running the 175 fronts.
Looks like the rear AD08's jumped in price in a day, from $168 to $177 a piece. I'll call Doc @ the TireRack to see if he can honor the $168 price. I was waiting some time trying to match the best front tire to the AD08 rear. He seems very respectable and understands customer satisfaction so I don't think they'll be an issue with that.
Front AD07's were $198 a pop. Shipping was $56.48 and from AllTrac, which I personally hate as a delivery service. How professional is it having a guy dropping off your package, with a bandanna on his head, while smoking a cigarette. Sheez. They've lost my packages before too...
So my grand total was: $804.48 with shipping, hoping to drop it down to $786 after talking to Doc.�
Apr 28, 2014
Doug_G Bunch of posts moved to Dialing Back Roadster Understeer�
Jul 15, 2014
csummers My roadster has 18k miles and the rears are just about gone. My company has a deal with both The Tire Place and Sears and I've found a bunch of tires from Goodyear, Dunlop, Conti, toyo, michilen, Riken, Falken, and tons more from $65-$215 each. But no Yoko's. I am in Texas and have been driving about 6k/yr in my commute, no racing, no track.
Anyone have a suggestion? I can have them shipped to local service ctr or Goodyear/Sears for mounting.
[email�protected]
Thanks
Chris�
Jul 15, 2014
augkuo A lot of people have used the Michelin Super Pilot Sports - Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 vs Pilot Super Sport - Opinions Please�
Aug 7, 2014
wiztecy Well after 22,000 miles of dedication from my rear AD08 tires I'm happy say I retired them today. Not bad since I got 12,500 miles out of my original rear set of AD07s. Rear camber is was dialed at -2.2 and -2.0 and was very happy with the overall wear.
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Aug 7, 2014
Doug_G LOL I never get anywhere near that many miles out of mine.�
Aug 8, 2014
augkuo that's impressive - you must drive like granny
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Aug 8, 2014
wiztecy Not at all, I drive very aggressive actually and push pretty hard through the turns as well as very hard regen. The key is to roll lightly upon initial acceleration, then give 100% pedal. If you punch it 100% off the line I feel that TC is trying to negotiate with the tires and slightly spin them, the point of highest torque and friction.�
Oct 8, 2014
jordanthompson I was at the tire store and the guy recommended Bridgestone Driveguards (run flats.) He said his dad had them on a Cayman and was very happy with them (he tracks his car in North Carolina).
Anyone have any experience with these tires?
- - - Updated - - -
the ADO8 R's are now $182.00 from Tire Rack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN%20Neova%20AD08%20R&partnum=245WR7AD08R&tab=Survey!!!!!!�
Dec 2, 2014
nick It started raining around here and my 1.5 is unhappy on the freeway.
Currently running Toyo Proxy R888 tires all round - 195 on the front with 4/32 tread left and 225 on the rear with 3/32 tread left.
The R888 tires have much better grip in the wet at lowish speeds compared to the factory tires but give up at freeway speeds. Car was unhappy doing 65 in the rain. When new I have had the R888s aquaplane once.
I have a second set of rims and a pair of AD07 175 tires with about a month of driving on them.
Thinking I should put the AD07 tires on the front for the rainy months.
Looking for advice for the rear.
Nick�
Dec 2, 2014
wiztecy I honestly wouldn't run the R888's in the rain, even with just the back. There's no grooves to redirect the water at higher speeds, hence the hydroplaning. All the videos online point to this issue with the tire. If you have a full set of rims, I'd run the R888's in the summer and then Yoko's or something with better grooves for the wet roads in the winter.
Be careful of the AD07, if it has some age to it won't hold well either due to UV damage to the rubber.�
Dec 2, 2014
nick Thinking that - keep the R888 wheels for Summer, put something more wet appropriate on the other set of rims.
Need to decide what to put on the back...
I seem to remember the factory AD07 tires being hopeless for taking off in the wet.
The AD08 tread design doesn't look any better for wet performance.
Actually not sure I want AD07 tires on the front in the wet either.�
Dec 2, 2014
wiztecy I'm running AD08's in the rear and AD07 for the fronts. Don't want any other tire in the winter raining months or summer heat. This combo hasn't failed me and I've pushed the Roadster through some serious water across the road without any hydroplaning issues. Never had issues with launch both in wet and dry conditions. The Roadster has excellent traction control, one of the best, there shouldn't be any issue on take-off in the rain.
Even in summer the R888's take time to get up to temp where they start to hook up, so I wasn't impressed with those tires unless I had a track only car that never saw rain.�
Dec 2, 2014
Doug_G While I was daily driving my Roadster I was running AD07 front AD08 rear. Works great. I'd run AD08 front but couldn't get them. In any case, you replace rear 3X more often than front so it doesn't matter if the AD07 is a bit more expensive.
Now I run A048 because I like to do autocross, and I never got around to replacing my last set of AD07/AD08's.�
Dec 2, 2014
Gary1M If you wanted to consider sticking with the Toyo line I've had good experience with the Proxes T1 Sport. I've gone through a couple of sets on the rear with lots of freeway miles and the occasional So Cal rainstorm with no hydroplane events. I've also not experienced any traction control issues with these tires.
�
Feb 16, 2015
ecarfan Currently on TireRack the ADO8R's are $157 and the ADO7's are $146. I am just replacing my rears for the first time since becoming a Roadster owner last October. I have read this entire thread.
My question is more about how many miles people get out of their rears. It seems to vary from a bit over 4,000 to around 18,000 in a few cases. That's quite a lot of variation!
My car came to me with 12K miles and is now at almost 17K miles. My rear AD07's are at 2/32 so am replacing them with the same tire. My fronts are at 5/32.
What is interesting is that the rear DOT date is 3613 so they are obviously not the original factory tires. My front DOT date is 3708 so they are clearly the original factory tires.
Don't know if my current rears are the second or third set on the car, I was not able to get in touch with the previous owner (who I think may have been the original owner) because I bought the car through a BMW dealership.�
Feb 16, 2015
FANGO The rears definitely go faster on stock tires. I'm something on the order of 4k into my new tires and they still have tons of tread left, they almost look new. Very satisfied with the AD08R, the only problem is they're too grippy and it's too hard to kick the back out, hehe.�
Feb 16, 2015
Sparrow While my wife was driving the Roadster, we changed the rears each year during the annual service. That equated to about 12,000 miles. The tires still had plenty of tread left each time, but it was easier to just do it while the car was being worked on anyways and as an added bonus the new tires were way quieter for a few months at least. At about 49,000 miles we are on our 4th set of rears and 2nd set of front tires. I am waiting to see what the tires are going to be for Roadster 3.0 before I do anything with the current tires. Fortunately, she now drives a Model S and the Roadster is just for fun so I can wait.�
Feb 16, 2015
ecarfan I wanted to wait to change my tires until I knew what the new tires in the 3.0 upgrade would be. In the 3.0 upgrade topic I posted recently that I asked Tesla what the new tires would be, but as I expected, the people who answer emails said they don't know yet and my local service center doesn't know either. So I had to go ahead and replace my rears anyway.
Maybe in a year my rears will need replacing, and maybe the fronts, so at that time I can go to the new 3.0 tires.�
Feb 17, 2015
PokerBroker FYI... Tire Rack has AD07's for a STEAL!!!
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Feb 17, 2015
hcsharp Be careful when and how you have them shipped this time of year. If they drop below 14 deg F they will be damaged. Their warehouses are climate controlled but I don't know about the trucks and warehouses used for shipping.�
Feb 18, 2015
tvuolo Henry, what do you mean they can be damaged? Does that apply when they are filled and on the car as well? I've driven mine well into negative degrees. Did I damage them?�
Feb 18, 2015
hcsharp They crack. It can range from tiny cracks that you can't see unless you look for them to larger cracks. It affects the performance and longevity of the tire. It can happen whether the tire is inflated or not. I got most of this information from a Yokohama rep as well as a Tire Rack technical specialist. He said he's seen tires that dropped to 0 F a couple of times and were not affected, as well as tires that went below 14 F for one night that cracked.
There are a couple Roadster owners here on TMC who have experienced this damage. They might want to weigh in.�
Feb 18, 2015
FANGO Cracking is what happens to old rubber. Lots of things can do accelerate it. Temperature variation, sun exposure, etc. Tires just get cracked with age. And extreme cold would make those cracks happen sooner. When I got my Roadster it had ~7k miles on it but was ~5 years old, seems to have been kept ouside a lot in New Jersey, the tires had tons of tread depth but they were cracked, and when Tesla saw the car they recommended that I replace them immediately and even made me sign a waiver before they let me drive it away. I took it to America's Tire soon after since they're next to the Costa Mesa service center, have experience with the car and were offering much cheaper prices (~$800 for all 4 tires, about the same as TireRack at the time).
People think this is what happened to Paul Walker too. The car maybe hadn't been driven much and despite plenty of tread it had small cracks in the tires, which reduced their performance, and thus made the car go out of control at the wrong time. Add this to a car which is famously prone to snap oversteer (as is the case with MR cars....like the Roadster), high speed and trees on the outside of the turn and you've got a bad situation. I definitely had an easier time kicking the back out on those old tires....which I sort of miss, haha.
So yeah. Extreme cold and extreme hot will age your tires faster, and it could be that <14 degrees is a magic number that does instant damage to them (I wouldn't know, I'm from SoCal ;-)). If you daily drive the car it probably won't be much of an issue, since you're replacing the tires pretty quickly anyway, much faster than they can crack. But it's something to consider, and especially something to consider with "weekend cars" that don't see many miles and thus will have deep treads but old rubber. Tires probably shouldn't be on a car more than about 5 years in any circumstance, except maybe covered in a climate controlled garage with a humidifier in it and a guy who shines the tires with rubber treatments routinely or something, haha.�
Feb 18, 2015
hcsharp The AD07, AD08, Mich Super Sports, and many other extreme performance summer tires use a compound that cannot tolerate temperatures below a certain point without breaking down. Normal tires don't have this problem. As you pointed out, all tires have problems with age to some degree, but they generally don't break down at 14 deg F. It's a compromise by the manufacturer to get better grip and performance on dry pavement.�
Feb 18, 2015
xxxotic
I have a Lotus Elise and it uses the same tires as the roadster. Just ordered them from Tire Rack and the label says to keep the tires above 14 degrees. No problem since I am in Florida and it never gets below 30 here. I too was waiting to see what the revised Tesla tires were going to be, but no one seems to know.
The Tire Rack sale is a good deal since the tires cost twice as much a few years ago. Someone heard that they are discontinuing these tires at Yokohama but I dont know if that is true or not. Does anyone know who makes the tires for the Model S. Seems likely that they would be the ones that they would use to make the new tires.�
Feb 18, 2015
hcsharp Welcome to the forum xxxotic! Most Model S are shipped OEM with Goodyear Eagles or Michelin Primacy which are all-season tires and probably not the new tires for the Roadster. The 1.5 Roadsters (vs the 2.0 and 2.5) are limited to only a few tire choices due to a very sensitive traction control system. It has a lot of torque. It's hard to speculate what the new tires are.
What are most Elise owners running on their cars? I went to visit a neighbor with one and he was on AD07s. Many of us feel quite limited by the front tire size. Most manufacturers are not making extreme performance LRR tires in that size.�
Jun 25, 2015
frequencydip I just put new tires on mine and tried a new combo that I haven't seen anyone else try yet. No warning lights due to tire sizes or anything. I have used these tires on my Porsche previously and loved them for summer driving.
205/45ZR-16 Hankook Ventus R-S3
255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus R-S3�
Apr 2, 2016
wiztecy New shoe change. 4th set of Yoko's on the Roadster @ 60k. Ad07''s came in with 12.5k miles. The 3 AD08 tires (1st 08, 2nd&3rd 08R) are averaging at 15,800 miles.
I didn't balast my Roadster and it shows, for the Elise/Roadster if you're ballast, align the car, and get in & drive you're running your rear passenger tire more negative on camber. Will setup an appointment with my Wheel Works tire shop to re-align while the car's balasted with my personal weight on the drivers seat. Have to love lifetime alignments!
Below are pics of my worn tires. I commute 33 miles each way so I very much monitor my tires and can run them down this low. I went throught the last layer (2nd) of rubber and into the 1st layer of steel belts on the heavy sided part of the tire. Also ran the car through rains and it handled just fine. Went through streams of run-off water and the Roadster does fine, just keep tracking straight. The car is so heavy in the back that it keeps the rear planted. Just don't do stupid / unthinkable stuff and you're fine.
You know when you ran your tires down pretty good when the tire shop person goes, "WOW", when you pull the two wheels out of your car to bring into the tire shop.�
Apr 2, 2016
wiztecy Ok, just got the tires back. One side the yellow dot was aligned properly with the valve stem. 6 weights same sized used. Other side had 8 weights and yellow dot was off from the valve stem b more than 1/4 a turn. I told the tire shop I had requested to align the yellow dots with the valve stems. They said it was hard since the yellow dot was on the backside of the tire. I said, just make a dot on the correct side please. They asked if I'd like it re-aligned, I said yes. Came back yellow dot on valve stem and 6 weights, so 2 less weights. I take my tires in and have them change the wheel / tire itself. So can have a closer eye on the work, plus I don't trust others jacking up my Roadster unless its Tesla or a shop I have trust with.�
Jun 3, 2016
Tex EV Seems that Tire Rack just sold out of the front AD07s...
With the special pricing ($99.25 each) I'm guessing they're gone and won't be coming back.�
Jun 3, 2016
hcsharp I bought a pair about a month ago. At that time they had 4 left. I gave my local tire shop a chance to beat the price just to be nice. They are a Yokohama dealer but were unable to find a pair anywhere in the country, not even direct from Yokohama. This is especially a problem for 1.5 owners but frankly even with tire learning nothing else fits the front of the 2.x very well either.�
Jun 3, 2016
Tex EV Tesla quoted me $241ea for the front AD07s earlier today. I'm not sure if they even have them on hand, but that was the price given.�
Jun 4, 2016
supersnoop Tire rack had them listed as closeout. The A048's are still available in the 195/50-16 size. A buddy of mine just suggested some Dunlops that seem to be within the same rotations-per-mile spec. Luckily I just had new AD07's installed up front and they tend to last a while.�
Jun 5, 2016
wiztecy This totally sucks and leaves the 1.5 Roadster's in a bind. Well my next major upgrade definitely will be the custom Boze Wheels to get away from this mess of being stuck to one type of tire that's in an oddball size.
Discount Tires are also dried up on front/rear AD07's. Ebay is very slim pickings and who knows if that inventory is correct.�
Jun 5, 2016
asgard Has anyone else on this forum done the Boze custom wheels?
I worry about changing the look of the car too much. The stock grey wheels match the color of my Roadster well.�
Jun 5, 2016
wiztecy You can customize the Boze wheels to how you like them, color, dish, etc... I most likely will trailer my Roadster down to southern California to their shop to have the car sized up for the wheels, my goal is first to not comprise its current handling hopefully improving it and second the looks. Lastly, when moving to the 17" front / 18" rear I found the correct size that preserves the rotation ratio between the front/rear wheels, however the speedometer will be slightly off / read slower due to the taller rim size. Hopefully Tesla has some way to deal with recalibration, but most likely not without a firmware change.
This is the look, dish, and size I'm looking to have mine done in:
Who makes these wheels? - Found cool wheelset for Roadster
Here's the Boze pattern I'm going for:
-OR-
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![[?IMG]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_vVD7rEna2CsJdExx6ksIOsrYSV_6elzJhZ61tAsuKHI8vXP1Ll5yE_nnno0R9vn4tTtEEZhERakSEhmp9zzpXyeKeQaxJ4AzvdenoSjJMt00HSyhgoPyYpxVZGmLv05qJiCwvNI0wiNeiOuhNtDcD_60kBxPZtaXaBp_SFjRwT5uvSnLUgtKeYxvSM8aDcXTFWdrKT6g=s0-d)
![[?IMG]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_sDX5z9g4Gn6V1_XUWYxFS1A_GWcO0G2Q_7EbMzOPRhILkZ1x5mLnJ0dpyAftKDapPK2EXHoLW7Hg8g2g_K2SSmHidEKdGVv2KtkbNJiFRbRlCSTF3o0aXySJbfkJGH=s0-d)
Jun 5, 2016
ecarfan At the shareholder meeting, when @sclasner asked if the rest of the 3.0 upgrade package items would be released, JB mentioned that Tesla was looking at more than one manufacturer for new tire choices for the Roadster. But he did not provide any details. ALl I can say is that I am hopeful that Tesla will give us more tire choices, including for the 1.5's, in the near future. I really do not want to have to buy new wheels for my 1.5 just to be able to get tires.�
Jun 6, 2016
Tex EV The SC just let me know that Tesla has some AD07s in inventory. They won't install anything non-OEM. Might just need to bite the bullet and pay full price. The previous owner of my car put Continentals on it which they suspect are causing the steering wheel to shake at highway speeds.�
Jun 6, 2016
supersnoop Have you tried getting them balanced? Run it up to Discount Tire and see what they can do. Unless the tires are excessively worn, shaking is most often a balancing problem.�
Jun 6, 2016
Tex EV Probably should've done this first, but I was ready to get new tires anyway. The Continentals are all-season, which I'm guessing means I'm not getting the most out of the car with them.
Update on the AD07 situation... I spoke with a Tire Rack rep directly, and they do have fronts in stock and are receiving more. Said the website was reflecting an older part number. Sorry for the false alarm!�
Jun 6, 2016
augkuo I had a bent wheel (probably from a pot hole!) that also caused a lot of shaking so you can check that as well -�
Jun 7, 2016
wiztecy [email�protected] was kind enough to give us some insight into the Yokohama AD07 situation, he gave me the ok to repost our converstation. Thanks Doc!
Me:
Hi Doc how's it going? We Roadster owners are curious if Yokohama will continue to make the AD07 tires, in particular the Lotus/Tesla size 16"/17" combo? Tire Rack and Discount Tire are out of stock on these and its worrisome since the 1.5 Roadsters can't 'learn' a new tire size, so we're stuck with them.
Doc:
As it stands right now, Yokohama has not indicated any plans to drop the OE Lotus spec. tire in 175/55R16 although they have stopped production on the same model for 225/45R17. We have a "revised" version of the AD07 (we designate as v2) for the rear tire size, and although Yokohama feels they two versions should not be mixed (in pairs) on the same car Tire Rack feels that these two versions of the AD07 would be closer to one another that anything else. If I had to guess I would say that even the V2 tires would be discontinued within the next few years but I could never give you any specifics.
While have not heard any feedback (positive or negative), we have had a few folks try 195/50R16 and 225/45R7 for reference. That opens a few more options, including the Yokohama AD048�
Jun 7, 2016
Tex EV This is what I ordered from Tire Rack yesterday:
175/55R-16 YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD07 LTS LOTUS
225/45R-17 YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD07 LTS 2 LOTUS SL
Was wondering what the significance of "LTS 2" on the rears was. So this is the v2 Lotus spec tire. Would've just gone with the AD08s, but the local SC is installing them and will only install OEM... which technically these aren't since they're a revised design? We'll see how it goes when they arrive tomorrow�
Jun 8, 2016
FANGO I run AD07 LTS in the front, AD08R in the rear on my 1.5 and am quite happy with the rear tires. I wouldn't really mind if they stopped producing the rears since the AD08Rs are a lot better it seems.�
1/1/2015
guest Hi guys,
The set of tires that came with my used roadster were severely cupped on the insides of the rear tires. I had Tesla look at the suspension, no issues, and balance the tires. I took those tires to the track and trashed them. I put 4 new AD07s on, and had them balanced & installed at my local tire shop. It was nice & smooth for 8K miles then the inside of the rears were cupped again. I bought 2 rear tires, had one of the wheels fixed (it was bent from a pothole), and had it aligned at the Lamborghini shop (the Lotus shop wanted $700!). It was nice and smooth until recently. Now the rears are cupped on the inside, yet again. It's been 8K miles almost to the mile. I'm down to 4/32" so it's probably getting close to replacement time.
My question is... What can I do to prevent the cupping? The noise becomes awful. I feel like I could get another 2000 miles before hitting 2/32" and if it weren't for the cupping, they'd be wearing quite evenly.
Other info:
I take my roadster to autocross events about 4 times per year. I'm not opposed to a less aggressive alignment, since my times are not limited by the car, but by the driver.
I have the adjustable suspension. For daily driving:
Normal air pressure.
F2 / R2
Front swaybar: loosest (end of bar).
Rear: mid
For track:
Normal air pressure
F7 / R8
Front: loosest
Rear: mid
Thanks for any insight.�
1/1/2015
guest Not sure if the 1.5s are different but my 2.5 does this too though I get more mileage (just street driving/commuting). I chalk it up to rear toe and negative rear camber settings.�
1/1/2015
guest Its due to negative camber. What what where your before and after camber settings from the Lambo alignment shop?
You can run the tires down pretty well if you just keep an eye on the inside edge on both tires. I have my extra set of tires ready at a point I know that the tire is ready to be switched, right when I start to see the second layer of the tire, right before the belts. My rear negative camber is at -2.5 and my fronts are -1.5. I'm not giving up my handling for tire wear at all. I'm still able to get 12k+ miles out of my rear AD0x's running an aggressive negative camber.
Augie set his away from being negative (towards positive), his numbers are on the forum somewhere, and he was able to get I believe 30k from the rears (running super sports).�
1/1/2015
guest Front:
Before:
Camber: -0.1, -0.2After:
Toe: -0.10, -0.18
Caster: 3.8, 3.4?
Camber: -0.2, -0.2
Toe: 0.00, 0.00
Caster: 4.0, 3.7?
Rear:
Before:So I read a bit about cupped tires and it says it's due to bouncing. Should I run my shocks stiffer for daily driving? What do you guys typically use for daily driving?
Camber: -2.2, -2.0After:
Toe: 0.14, 0.39
Thrust: -0.12?
Camber: -2.0, -1.8
Toe: 0.21, 0.24
Thrust: -0.02?
Should I switch over to a Michelin Super Sport in the rear? They are $8 more, but should last two to three times longer.�
1/1/2015
guest It depends if you have "cupped" or just one side / inside wear. I get inside wear from my aggressive negative camber, not cupping. Cupping is from a bent suspension part, bad ball joint, way out of balanced tire, bent rim, etc:
HOW TO READ TIRE WEAR
If you have any pics of your tire wear that'll help.
Here's a pic (passenger rear) of my one-sided wear. More if you follow the link:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/1454009/
...Also did you ask the Lambo shop to change your caster? Alignment shops don't mess with the caster typically since you have to remove and mess with the spacers with the front upper A-Arm. Great service if they did, more caster gives you more negative camber while cornering while the suspension is compressing:
Front:
Before:
Camber: -0.1, -0.2
Toe: -0.10, -0.18
Caster: 3.8, 3.4
After:
Camber: -0.2, -0.2
Toe: 0.00, 0.00
Caster: 4.0, 3.7
I also see your rear toe was out of whack. Front toe I try to be as close to zero (which the Lambo guys did right), an incorrect toe setting will wear the sides your tires faster:
Rear:
Before:
Camber: -2.2, -2.0
Toe: 0.14, 0.39
Thrust: -0.12
After:
Camber: -2.0, -1.8
Toe: 0.21, 0.24
Thrust: -0.02�
1/1/2015
guest Below is a picture of the rear passenger tire. I didn't take a very good picture, but you can sort of see the triangle shaped wear pattern. Every other nub is worn down. On flat smooth pavement it feels like driving a jeep with knobby tires. I'll call the Lambo shop and see if they can balance and mount some new tires (yellow dot to valve stem as last time), re-align (maybe I hit something), and check for any damaged suspension components. I'll have them make sure the wheels are round again and fix if not. I can also stiffen up the back a few notches. Anything I'm missing?
I'm thinking about getting some Pilot Super Sports for my daily driving. I hear they are nearly as good, but last longer. I'll keep my current AD07s and swap for my next few autocross events until they are completely worn.�
1/1/2015
guest Too much rear toe causes cupping. Your new adjustment is on the high side of the stock spec. You will get better tire life at 0.16' each side (min spec). Tesla kept the factory Lotus spec but failed to take into account the extra power in the Roadster. Under acceleration the rear suspension flexes to create even more toe-in, and that is worst time to be out of alignment-when the tires are already at maximum traction. Increased rear toe gives more stability at high speeds, but that is also different between the Lotus and the Tesla.
I currently run Pilot Super Sports on the rear, and they have a little less traction then the A048, so probably similar to the AD07.�
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