Oct 7, 2013
nrcooled Agreed, this is not a recommended fitment for the masses. Disclaimer - do not try this at home
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Oct 8, 2013
Luder94 Stretch and stance....
Interested in finding out what wheel you went.
I've got a set of Wed Borphes, that are 19" that I may have rebuilt (step-lipped) to 20" and re-drilled from 5x114 to 5x120 for the Tesla. Just need to get off my butt to do it though.�
Oct 8, 2013
Gizmotoy Not only for the masses, but anyone. I'm surprised you were able to find an installer willing to stretch a tire so far. Most reputable installers would balk at stretching a half inch over the largest recommended wheel size, and yours is a full inch wider. The risk for a blowout is just too large. You have 10.4" tires on 11.5" wheels :scared:, and on an application that mandates an unusually high tire pressure. Those two combined will increase your risk of blowout dramatically. You've got a pretty dangerous setup, there.�
Oct 8, 2013
nrcooled I'm an idiot and I was curious why everyone was worried. The wheel is a 19x10.5. An 11.5 will NOT FIT in the rear. The 10.5 fills the entire wheel well.
The 265 is perfect for the set up and will not add any additional width to the setup.
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Oct 8, 2013
Gizmotoy Phwew. Much more reasonable. I'm glad.�
Oct 20, 2013
pjhartog hi - these look great and we - in Europe - are looking for something similar. Is Enkei Canadian or ?
thanks for any info
PJH�
Oct 25, 2013
nrcooled Enkei wheels are made in Taiwan and the distributor is out of California for the US. I would call Enkei corporate to see who/where the European distributor is.
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Oct 26, 2013
logan
Why would you want to run 265 on a 10.5" wheel? 295 at minimum, 305 preferable. 265 just sounds like a curb rash nightmare! :biggrin:�
Jan 20, 2014
turbo2go Hey guys I have read through the whole thread here, I still have some questions.
I have on order a P85+ in gray. I almost ordered the 21" turbines in dark gray but decided to go aftermarket. If I understand correctly, the OEM 21" wheels are 21x9 all around. What is the offset on each end? What is the bolt pattern and the center bore? I am really trying to get the most wheel and tire and the best flush look without any rubbing. Car has the adjustable suspension. The size I was recommended was 21x9 ET30 245/35/21 and 21x10 ET40 285/30/21. But I think this is still a bit conservative, no?
I am looking at BC racing with the one I am leaning towards being the BC HB09S
The car is coming with red calipers, and I think the bolts will match some of the chrome trim on the car. Any opinions welcome.�
Jan 20, 2014
JerryNycom Think those will look insane! Cant wait to see them on your car......�
Jan 20, 2014
Mayhemm The 21-inch OEM wheels are mandatory with the P85+. Are you really going to pay $4500 for the OEMs and then go aftermarket?�
Jan 20, 2014
turbo2go I'm sorry I need to get my models straight. It is a P85. I did not get the race suspension package. So I got the basic 19 or 18 or whatever the car comes with and I was going to install snow tires on those and make them winter wheels. I have all other options except the fog lamps and clear protectant film. I am considering a vinyl wrap as well. Not in love with any of the Tesla factory colors.�
Jan 20, 2014
Mayhemm Ah, understood.
I was hoping Tesla had made the OEM wheels no longer mandatory, as I was also hoping to go aftermarket. But I'm not buying those wheels and then storing them.�
Jan 21, 2014
turbo2go I suppose you can always sell the 21" turbines or exchange them with someone with smaller wheels to make them winter wheels. I have to do the same with the all season tires as they come mandatory, I can't actually get dedicated snow tires on the car. I have no need for all seasons since I have two sets of wheels. I also suppose the suspension package price is not so bad if you consider you are getting a $4500 wheel upgrade, so it is closer to $2000. I'm still wondering if this is something I want though because I read on here some of those differences like the control arms are already incorporated into the newer models. That setup seems worthwhile on smooth roads which I do not have here, or if you take the car to the track. I have a dedicated track car.
Also note that those wheels seem to be cast. 21" wheels are very large, not leaving a lot of rubber to absorb impact with. Too big really, this is more a nod to looks than any sort of real performance. So I worry they will bend quicker. What I have pictured is at least a fully forged wheel, which should give the wheel a fighting chance against potholes. The wheels are also custom made centers so the centerbore is exact, meaning to need for hubcentric rings which is a bit of a mickey mouse way of making wheels fit. I am still trying to figure out my sizing though, car comes in end of February.�
Jan 21, 2014
Mayhemm I agree that the 21-inch wheels are really too big (I'm curious as to whether Tesla had any reason for choosing them beyond appearance). Wheels that big should be reserved for concept cars, not production vehicles.
The roads here are also far from pristine. If I'm constantly getting flats, I may end up selling the 21's as you suggest. The pre-owned wheel market is kind of flooded right now though, so I'd be lucky to get half of what I paid.
If you are even considering the Performance Plus (suspension) package, take note: The package includes only the suspension upgrades and converting the 21-inch rears to a slightly wider version. You still have to pay for all the other required features (Air suspension, Tech Package, 21-inch wheels, etc) on top of the cost of the P+. The fee is fixed. There are no included features to discount it. Makes it a bit of a hard sell unless you absolutely want maximum performance.
Be sure to start a thread when you get your car in a few weeks. Mine isn't coming until April.�
Jan 21, 2014
turbo2go Mayhemm that is indeed pricey, and now I realize why I did not get it. $6500 for upgraded dampers and bushings is a lot of money. And then the question is.... is this usable on the average street with your average driver. I am a fairly seasoned track rat with a lot of experience with race cars. I've ran all the tracks in the Northeast and Laguna Seca. I've been at Monticello Motor Club's private track several times, Watkins glen international many times, and various other smaller tracks. Next year I will be at the newly opened Thompson Speedway and NJMSP. This package seems more fit for someone that wants to take their model S to the track but there are no charging stations there so I don't know how you would do it. Those bushings also are harsher on the street. Add 21" wheels and you are looking at a pretty stiff car. I honestly don't see a need for anything larger than an 18-19 max on the street, in fact most racers use 15-17" on the track for weight and tire cost reasons. All these big wheels are pretty much for the bling factor. Which is fine to make the car look good, I mean I am sticking with 21 but anyone thinking it makes them faster is not looking at reality. So do you know the stock wheel specs in terms of bolt pattern, center bore and offset? I don't trust most wheel places I like to do my own calculations.
- - - Updated - - -
I'm also considering the HB29. I am a bit torn on these two. One has the exposed bolts which I like better and one has a pattern I like better.
�
Jan 21, 2014
turbo2go This is weird I just made two posts and don't see either of them.
- - - Updated - - -
Anyway the gist of it was that $6500 is a lot for the suspension package, and I don't think it's all that usable on the street instead of a racetrack. I wish i could have driven both back to back. Also I am considering this wheel:
![[?IMG]](https://www.sonicms.net/image/cache/data/wheels/bcforged/hb29/HB29-BBFBX-750x750.jpg)
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Jan 21, 2014
Mayhemm Yeah, don't know what was going on there. My subscription list showed that you had posted but there was nothing here in the thread.
This is a bit ironic (and sad) since on a racetrack the Model S thermals will quickly get out of hand and the car will limit power.
I'm getting a P85+, not because I think I'll ever need the extra capability, but because my car will kind of be the example in my region for what is possible with an EV. It's an ideological expense. :biggrin:
That's a nice wheel choice, BTW. What are the specs?�
Jan 21, 2014
brianman Small post count; perhaps moderation pending.�
Jan 22, 2014
yobigd20 Those are definiately some sweet looking rims. Can't tell the exact finish on there but if they come in that black/silver machined finish and I had >$1000 per rim to spare, I'd totally get a 20" set of these.�
Jan 22, 2014
turbo2go I see. I get the ideological expense thing.The wheel specs I have listed, but the point of my posts is to get more info on if I can go wider and a less conservative offset STILL. I guess not too many people know.
The finish is something I am trying to decide on as well. I will either go black, gunmetal, or matte gunmetal (pictured). I will most likely not do a seperate color lip like pictured here in gloss black. While that looks good with a wheel just sitting there, once on a car with shined-up tires the wheel edge disappears into the side wall... and because the inner lip has rivets, it will give the effect that IT is the outer edge of the wheel from a distance, and that the spokes are "floating" onto the tires. That is not the effect I want so I will match the lip to the spoke color. Right now leaning toward matte gunmetal. Opinions are welcome.�
Jan 24, 2014
turbo2go why does this thread show a page 15 but when you click on it, it just comes back to 14? Well... now that I made this post it stays on 15. Boy I have all kinds of problems here already haha�
Jan 24, 2014
nrcooled The stock 21s are 21x8.5 et42 (I think...the specs are on the TMC board but I'm too lazy to search for them).
That fitment is a safe setup that you stated above. What will change things is if you plan to lower your car. I am currently running 19x9.5 +30 on all corners but I'm about 1.5" lower. I did have 19x10.5 +20 in the rear but I didn't like the look of that particular wheel and wanted to go concave and not dished.
With your planned setup the fronts will not poke and won't be flush. If you want flush do 10mm less offset (+20) or go a half inch wider. The rear should be good as is.
Again, if you plan to lower the car it changes things and you may find that you will rub in the rear with anything more aggressive.
I like the second set you posted better. The issue I have with exposed bolts is that they tend to look more "racer" when the Model S is luxury. I put multi piece wheels on my S2000 and they had exposed bolts and I felt it looked the part but I don't think they will jive with the MS.
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Apr 2, 2014
turbo2go 
- - - Updated - - -
I have a set of 19" OEM tires with 100 miles on them for sale cheap now if anyone is interested. I put dedicated snows on the OEM wheels.�
Apr 3, 2014
mag249 BBS CH-R in titanium.
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Jun 20, 2014
mandfunk Very nice, and thanks for sharing all the great data. I honestly think your 19" look better than larger diameters.�
Sep 27, 2014
Kofi HRE Flow Form 20"
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Oct 3, 2014
dark Can someone help me out with this? I have been reading but can't really find any reliable data on range impact with lighter, but wider wheels.
I plan to use my Volk (light weight), but wider 255/40/20 front, 285/35/20 rear.
I will be using my car from Barstow supercharger to Las Vegas supercharger and there will be a detour which in between. Total of 200 miles. If I use the AC, and account for other condition, I might lose 20% range easy. 260 miles rated range x 0.8 = 208 range. With the wider wheels, more friction, I cannot afford to take any hit on the range lost.
Does anyone have any experience with range impact? on lighter, wider wheels?�
Oct 3, 2014
tdiggity Have you driven with the wheels at all? You should be able to tell if you can cruise at 65mph @ X wh/m. If you're cutting it that close, you'll need to just drive slower. A 5mph decrease in speed helps a lot.
Lighter wheels won't make a ton of difference. For what it's worth, let's say that you'll do better than 21", but worse than 19". Your offsets will change range too, the more flush, the less aero dynamic they'll be.�
Oct 3, 2014
dark I have not mount the wheels on yet until I get an idea the impact, since it will be an investment to purchase the tires and mounting.�
Oct 3, 2014
JRP3 I would guess that the lighter wheels have almost no benefit for steady state highway long distance driving, but the increased tire contact patch of wider wheels will negatively impact range to some degree. Pumping them up to maximum pressure may counter some of that.�
Oct 4, 2014
dark Ya, I agree, but how big is the impact? I can't seem to find any data. an owner claims there is no difference with 20" wheel with 285/40/20 at the rear. I am confused, some owners using 21" stock wheels getting an average of 210 miles per full charge, where some is getting 290kw/mi.
I don't get it.�
Oct 4, 2014
tdiggity There are a lot of variables. I had 19" volks, and could hit my rated miles easily at freeway speed. Now I have 20s and use 10% more energy. But still less than when I had 21s.
The reason you see people getting very different numbers is probably due to elevation changes. When I drive from NorCal to SoCal, I drive ~75-80mph and get an average of 330 wh/mile on my 20".
I think your best bet is to find a charger in the middle and charge for an hour or two. If this is a regular kind of drive you'll be doing, eventually you won't make the trip on a single charge due to degradation. If this is a once in awhile trip, have a couple chargers mapped out just in case.�
Oct 10, 2014
dark Hey guys, after asking many questions. I finally got my Volks wheels on and I am very satisfied with the result.
Here is my settings. Volks VR G2 20x9 +35 front, 20x10 +40 rear, original bolt patterns 5x114.3, re-drilled to 5x120
As for my tires, 255/40/20 front, the ideal front should be 245/40, but Michelin don't make 245/40, as you can see from the photo, my front is barely touching the liner. For most condition, 255/40/20 will not rub.
Now my rear, the ideal wheel setup should be 20x10 +35, since my wheel is +40 with 285/35/20 rear, it barely fits and you have to zip ties the inner liner to prevent rubbing. I also installed a 5mm spacer which now fit perfectly.
I drove about 100 miles today, with 325kw/miles, not bad.
�
Nov 12, 2014
lolachampcar bump�
Nov 25, 2014
jpwe10 Whats the absolute max width you can go for the front wheels/tires without severe rubbing? I want a wider tire that the 8.5 stock width but really don't want to do a staggered setup so I can still rotate.�
Nov 30, 2014
Kofi You can go 9" or 9.5" wide on the front and rear for a rotatable setup. The HRE FF01 is a 20" lightweight wheel for the Model S.
The HRE P40SC is the 19/21" forged option.
�
Dec 15, 2014
Senox Forge Monoblock 20"
Hi all,
I've almost non knowledge about rims and is hoping to get some help here!
I have a P85D on order with 19" rims that I planned to use for the winter wheels and go aftermarket for the summer rims. I've have looked for forged monoblock rims to get good strength/weight ratio.
Ive received a suggestion and a quote from Forgeline: Welcome to Forgeline Motorsports but lacks the knowledge to verify if it will work and if it makes sense.
For the front they suggest 20 X 8.5 GT1-5LUG 5 X 120 CB 74.1 ET 32
and for the rear they suggest 20 X 10 GT1-5LUG 5 X 120 CB 74.1 ET 37
They also write USE 235 40 20 AND 275 40 20 TIRES
Thankfull for any help!�
Dec 16, 2014
lolachampcar I just got in my TSW Nurburgrings in 20"x9" (all the way around as I do not need the stagger for oversteer margin or looks). They are just under 25lbs versus 31lbs for my previous 21" Tesla turbines.
Nurburgring Alloy Wheels by TSW
The quality was much better than expected and, at $350 each, you simply can not beat the value.
I did order five rims. It has been my experience with aftermarket rims that having a spare is a good idea. Some rims go out of production while custom machined mono blocks can be six to eight weeks to get a replacement. I've had to replace four rims in the past when only one gets damaged.
My tire choice were 255/40-20 Porsche sized Pilot Super Sports. Better wear, grip and price when compared to the Pilot Sport 2s.
Do be aware that the TPMS sensors have changed with the PD so make sure you use your old ones or pick up a set of Contenental sensors from Tesla (I paid $200 for all four!!).
Best of luck.
Bill�
Dec 16, 2014
Senox Thanks you answer!�
Dec 16, 2014
linkster Senox
a) Welcome to this forum!
b) Congrats on your P85D order (VERRRY jealous here).
c) Since you are new here, and may not know this: there is a reason why 6 green reputation bars exist above your first respondents avatar (yes, he knows THAT much!)
d) I would follow lola's advice as he is about to receive his 4th S and has tremendous experience to draw from.
e) Another "twist" on lola's 20x9" awesome wheel/tire combo is that if you strongly prefer a staggered set-up (not necessary, MUCH added expense, but do look kinda cool IMO) you could deploy 245/40-20 on the front and 265/40-20's on the rear BOTH on a 20x9" wheel for a nearly identical look and sizing as a P85+.
f) I too, ALWAYS purchase an extra wheel when I go aftermarket.
Good-Luck!
btw, very smart of you to stay away from the low-performance 21's�
Dec 16, 2014
Zextraterrestrial Lolacc-
Do you happen to know the weight rating of the TSWs? that was the first wheel I was looking at before I bought some MRRs
Tirerack was selling Enkei wheels for Model S' early on that were only rated for 600kg. (I bought the wheels in the first post here for winter, thanks again NRC)
I think the forgestars (Cf5v) are 700kg rated and 'similar' to the TSW�
Dec 17, 2014
Senox Thanks for the info linkster! I didn't know what the green bar represented. -but it's good to know how the hierarchy works here
After talking to Steve at Forgeline it became clear that the reason they recommended the 10 rear width was more or less for a coolness factor. It appears most of their customer wants a more aggressive set-up. I explained that I rather go as close to original as possible to not experiment to much from Teslas tested out set-up and that I was afraid that the 10 width rear would have a negativ impact on range, which I absolutely don't want on my first EV.
It ended with that I ordered 20" 8,5 CB 74,1 ET 32 and rear 9,0 CB 74,1 ET 32. This I hope will result in no change in handling compared to the original 21" but I would have a stronger and lighter rims (less then 20 lbs). That sounds good in my ears. The only downsize would be the price (about 1500 USD per rim). And no, I didn't purchase a 5th rim to have in spare. -If one if the rims would get damage I might start cutting my selfe
�
Dec 17, 2014
lolachampcar Forgeline rims are absolutely fantastic rims if you are comfortable with the price! I think you will be very happy.
Zex, I remember looking at the rating and finding the TSWs perfectly acceptable when I was building my list of possible rims (need a pictorial selection for my wife's approval as, apart from husbands, she has very good taste). My primary concern was that any rim carry both US and European approvals. The European one was particularly important as it seems more strict.�
Dec 17, 2014
46&2 Hello everyone!
I'm wondering whether the "D" models enable the same front rim/tires, as the "non-D" did. I don't expect a difference, but who knows - it might be possible for the all wheel drive to occupy just that tiny bit of space to make setups impossible that were working OK on the rear wheel drive models.
Any info from the early adopting P85D buyers is very welcome!�
Dec 17, 2014
lolachampcar I stopped by my local SC and drove one yesterday. I made a point to look at the front suspension and they are using the same zero scrub radius upright so there should be no changes in front wheel offset. The SC also confirmed they are the same rims as provided on the P+. So, as far as I can tell, there has not been a change.�
Dec 17, 2014
46&2 Well, that sounds good.
As far as my research about rim dimensions went (in this forum, mostly), people consider a 19, 20, 21, 22 x 9 a possible wheel for the front axle. x9 should work, especially with a 245mm tire mounted. Let's hope that stays the same with "D", as you say. I don't expect it to be different, either, to be honest.�
Dec 17, 2014
lolachampcar I'll have mine on 9" wide 20" rims with the above referenced tires towards the end of January so we will have one data point.�
Dec 18, 2014
46&2 Cool�
Dec 20, 2014
dark anyone using 255/40/20 size tire at front? Mine is rubbing, and I wonder if any one have rubbing issue and how do you fix it?�
Dec 21, 2014
AndreyATC I do, but rubbing is minor to even worry
however, some people get rubbing on stock wheels/tires�
Dec 21, 2014
Nathan Smith I Just had installed (like just today) 245/40R20 on front and 275/35R20 on back -- and have noted rubbing on my driver side front tire when backing up and to the left. Noticed it pulling out of a parking spot, but not out of my driveway. When I do hear it, it's pretty noticeable... So, I will be looking for suggestions as well.�
Dec 21, 2014
Tony Lin any one lowered their MS with 21" aftermarket wheels with front 255 and back 285 on air suspension?
do they rub? how low can it be lowered?
Thanks�
Dec 22, 2014
dark Nathan, that's exactly the same rubbing I am having. I feel that my wheel setup is prefect, so I won't consider changing my wheel setup. The problem is the liner will eventually punch a hole from the rubbing. I am thinking to heat up the liner with my heat gun and try to push the liner in for a 1/4".
Any suggestions?�
Dec 23, 2014
dark I just fix my rubbing problem in 5 minutes, I push the liner in and heat it up with my heat gun. Done with no cost and no visible modification.�
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