May 4, 2014
Fabrizio This is a salvaged 2010 Roadster with 24000 miles. The damage is all in the front. Air bags deployed, but other than that, it seems like there is no damage from the windshield towards the back. The PEM, batteries and motor seem intact. The "buy it now price" is $39,900 - interesting to see what happens with this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesla-Roadster-Tesla-/281316907089�
May 4, 2014
marco2228 Some pics from when it was at the salvage yard:
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Jun 2, 2014
ElectricLove So, I bought this car!
I just got it home tonight, pretty cool ride, its my first Tesla and it didn't come with a charging cable, I have J1772 charger at home and obviously that doesn't work... My first step is getting a charger so I don't end up with a dead pack, its on the low-side right now as it sits in my garage.
The car seems to be in relatively good shape, interior needs only the 2 airbags replaced, all of the drive-train components are fine and functional, most of the front end electronics are there. Seems to be missing the horn, A/C condenser/fan assembly, windshield washer reservoir and has a broken harness for the brake-vacuum. Those things plus the cosmetic plastics and body panels is all this is gonna need to be a rocking roadster again! Oh, and the windshield too.
If anyone has any sourcing information for parts and/or wiring schematics or body panel schematics for the front end, I'd be very grateful for your sharing!�
Jun 2, 2014
Fluke If your existing J1772 EVSE has a high enough amp rating to charge the roadster as fast as you want, I'd recommend going with hcsharp's "The Can" J1772 adapter rather than getting a more expensive Tesla charger.�
Jun 2, 2014
Doug_G +1 on "The Can". I have the original adapter and awkward is an understatement.
Good luck on the rebuild project. You're definitely going to need the air conditioning running, as it's part of the battery pack cooling system.�
Jun 2, 2014
Cottonwood I have an original, 30-Amp, Roadster UMC that is a spare for me. We could probably work a deal for loan, rent, or sale depending on the length of your need. PM me if interested.�
Jun 2, 2014
shrink I should be able to help you out. I'm in Phoenix and have an extra J1772 adapter. I also might have a 30 amp Blink EVSE to sell in about 2 weeks.
PM me.�
Jun 2, 2014
wiztecy
PULL the fuse on the ESS ASAP if you want to save the pack.
I wouldn't even attempt to charge it without the condenser and cooling all in place, nor do I think it'll charge (as Doug mentioned) which I'm sure the charge system will thrown an error in order to protect itself.
Also the front right wheel is hitting the cabin, so I suspect you have front suspension damage where the wishbone is bent back, so make sure to take a good look in that area and the components.
Happy to see you're restoring it, will be a blast when its back on the road!�
Jun 2, 2014
spaceballs I agreed with Wiztecy, to pull the ESS shunt/service disconnect to prevent over discharge over time.
If you have issues later on getting the car to not charge and the voltage drop is starting to make you freak out about bricking your pack. I can give you steps on how to manually charge/balance each brick (or sheet, slowly like @1A), without having to remove the ESS from the car.�
Jun 2, 2014
ElectricLove Wow, so many great responses, you guys are all awesome and so positive!
When I got it at the salvage yard they actually had it plugged in b/c they have a charger they bought on ebay (its a 120V), when it was plugged in it was charging so it seems the charger is alright with the current damages, they had it plugged in overnight before I got there so with the 120 that isn't a ton of electricity but it was something...
I have a couple questions, I noticed on the PEM and Battery pack they have tags with SN, etc. and they both say "Remanufactured", I would imagine this means they were replaced at some point (probably under warranty?), does anyone have a sense for whether the Reman ones are any good? (in my mind it means the battery has less then 24k miles on it, which seems like a good thing, but I don't know how many miles it is)
My other question is about the battery cooling system, I don't see any coolant pipes running from the front to back (but its so tight it may not be easy to see), are we sure the HVAC fans/condenser/evap are integral to the PEM/Battery pack cooling? I wish there were schematics somewhere I could see so I know how to put it all back together.
I found most of the parts I need (including the condenser/fans assembly) at a shop out East, I've purchased them and they are shipping them to me, so should be able to start reassembly this upcoming weekend!�
Jun 2, 2014
Doug_G Since only Tesla remanufactures the packs and PEMs, I wouldn't worry about that.
And yes we are sure about the cooling system.�
Jun 2, 2014
dhrivnak The cooling lines run down the passenger side and if you remove the plastic wheel liner on the rear passenger side you will see the battery heat exchanger.�
Jun 2, 2014
shrink Highs in Phoenix have been around 107-108 all weekend and that is supposed to continue for the next 7 days or so. What would you guys recommend the OP do to protect that battery from this heat?
With a cool down cycle around sunrise this AM my pack got down to 68 F degrees. It's at 95 F right now after sitting around all day. I'll run a Cooldown once off peak hours start at 7pm. The OP does not have that option unfortunately.�
Jun 2, 2014
djp It should be fine - heat doesn't have much of an effect at low SOC. I'd avoid charging it above 50%, both to avoid heat buildup during charging and high SOC.�
Jun 3, 2014
Cottonwood I have an MC240 that works with my Roadster 1.5 that I am going to send to the OP for use with his salvage Roadster 2.0; he can at least do some trickle charging (3-5 Amps) that should not need any cooling.
Do any of you know of issues using an MC240 with a 2.0? It works fine with my 1.5; I dusted it off and gave it a test yesterday.�
Jun 3, 2014
AEdennis I was told by Tesla that the MC240s (I assume the 30A one from a NEMA 14-50) is incompatible with Roadster 2.X. When we bought my wife's 1.5 from CPO last year, they were still providing 240V charging and it was when they started to run out of the UMCs... However they dug up an old MC240 for us as they said it works fine for 1.5, just not 2.X Roadsters.�
Jun 3, 2014
ElectricLove Is there a difference between the MC240 and the MC240-1? I saw on another posting about Tesla reworking the MC240 to be compatible w/ 2.0 for them and I noticed on the side it said MC240-1. I wonder if that means the -1 is compatible?
Where is the ESS fuse?�
Jun 3, 2014
Fluke Just out of curiosity, which set of pictures of this car represent the condition it was in when you received it? The photos included in Marco's post above appear to show more front end damage than the ones included in the Ebay ad. Did someone do some initial front end work on it and then abandon the project?�
Jun 3, 2014
Cottonwood I wonder what is funny about the 2.x Roadsters? The electrical interface is supposed to be a simple J1772, analog handshake. It's hard to imagine a compatibility issue, but...
The unit that I have is an MC240-1. See pics below.
Is there an owner of a 2.x Roadster in the Boulder/Denver area who would be willing to do a compatibility test before I send this unit to Phoenix?
�
Jun 3, 2014
wiztecy I agree, appears someone tried fixing it, put a new crash box in, pulled the right wheel forward. I'd be cautious of that, any suspension failure is serious, and make sure you you have it professionally looked at when you're complete. This is the common theme on Salvaged Roadsters. Buy at an insurance auction dirt cheap and then mark up 2-3x the price by removing some of the damaged parts and putting back a few low cost parts to hide the major damage/collision areas. I would try to get as much info from the seller / previous seller on the changes as Fluke mentioned in the pics.�
Jun 3, 2014
qwk As far as I know the only difference is the MC240 using +12V during the "I" state instead of -12V.�
Jun 3, 2014
ElectricLove Upon my visual inspection it appears that the sub-frame of the front-end is fine, the right-side swing arms were probably replaced and it looks like the mounting points are the original and in-tact. The swing-arms do have writing on them that says "Lotus", which means the salvage yard possibly pulled them off a Lotus Elise (which I saw they had one in the back) and remounted it. The crash structure looks like it was either replaced or wasn't harmed but I can't imagine they replaced that part, it is likely incredibly expensive as it appears to be all carbon fiber.
There is definitely going to be some risks and I'll do everything I can to make sure its safe, I will definitely get it inspected by Tesla after its all said and done and its titled/licensed.
The condition it was in on pick-up is of the ebay pictures not the autoauction pictures.�
Jun 3, 2014
Mobility Good luck with the project.
I found this listing on craigslist just in case you might needed. Here is the link
Tesla Roadster - Sport Adjustable Suspension Upgrade
BTW, I was at the Tesla Service Center in L.A. & the technician said that Tesla doesn't deal or service salvage cars due to liability issues. Hopefully that's not the case on your side of town. Once again good luck with it.�
Jun 3, 2014
ElectricLove Discussed with local Tesla service center and they said that this charger would work with the Roadster 2.0, Yay, I'll have a charger soon!�
Jun 3, 2014
wiztecy If you search the TMC forum there was an issue in the past due to firmware limiting factors that prevented the MC240 from working on 2.x Roadsters. I love my MC240, its my dedicated home charger. Guts / box of the MC240 is inside my home, where the connector and wire run is outside my house through an old dryer vent hole. 30 AMPS is plenty for my daily charges. I have a 70AMP HPC I haven't wired up yet, but my service to the home needs an upgrade to safely install that guy. And with him I want some solar panels as well.
But getting back to your project, you mentioned about where the ESS fuse is. Well most people call it the "service disconnect", which is really right. It won't blow so its really not a fuse. Its a mechanism to cut all power from the ESS to the PEM and the rest of the Roadster. Its located on the drivers side of the ESS and you should be able to get a peak at it from a vantage point of the right rear wheel well. Just pull it out and it cuts the power. This will save the ESS from draining in an emergency situation where it'll take time to get the Roadster back on the road. Ideally 50% SOC would be nice in this state but anything above 20% is good.
Nice to hear about the front end parts that were replaced and that you got a good crashbox. That company you picked up the Roadster tends to get Roadsters. So it sounds like they're getting smarter about keeping the ESS alive which is a very good thing and I'm happy they've caught on. I've seen many die in their hands
�
Jun 4, 2014
ElectricLove Yeah, they seemed like really good guy us at the dismantler/salvage yard and they had some gorgeous cars there (lamborghini, ferrari, maserati, bentley, rolls, etc). I was happy they were keeping plugged in, I am pretty confident that the battery won't be an issue for this car. I will have to get the car in the air and take some photos of the and try to find something to photo that may be questionable to show you guys and see what ya think.
Does anyone know if there are schematics available of the front end wiring and body parts? I am looking at it and thinking it may seem obvious but I'd bet I save a lot of time if I have "instructions" to reassemble.
I'm getting the car plugged in on 120V tonight, in the meantime I'll see if I can find and pull that disconnect.
Thanks guys�
Jun 4, 2014
dhrivnak I believe to disconnect the ESS service plug you need to pull the left rear tire and remove the fender liner to reach it. It should be bright yellow. But if you pull it you also will not be able to charge as I believe it totally isolates the pack.�
Jun 4, 2014
djp You'll want to disconnect the pack for safety if you're working on any of the electrical systems.�
Jun 4, 2014
ElectricLove I got the 120V charging cable from Shrink locally so it is now plugged in and charging!
There is not a need for me to work on any of the High Voltage systems fortunately with this vehicle, the only problem currently with that system is the cooling component which is the condenser coils and fan up front, waiting on those parts then I can hook it up and get it charged...
Thanks everyone for the awesome support!
Any ideas on where to score some hinges for the hood?
Does anyone know where the horn is supposed to be mounted? (I can't find something that looks like one and pressing the horn doesn't do anything)�
Jun 4, 2014
Fabrizio I had to have my crash box replaced after a pickup backed into me and pushed the radiator into it. It is all CF and hand made, can be replaced by being cut off the aluminum frame and the remainder heated with a heat gun to loosen the adhesive for removal. There is a shop in Scottsdale that has repaired a number of Roadsters - Raintree Autobody (raintreeautobody.com). Some other shops have experience with the Model S, but Raintree has done more work with the Roadster. If you call them, ask for Bob.�
Jun 5, 2014
djp The cooling system is high voltage, all the orange cables up there are direct from the ESS.�
Jun 11, 2014
ElectricLove I've got the A/C system back together, it's working and keeping the pack cooled for charging. I have also fully charged the pack on 120V adapter borrowed from Shrink, reads at 186 ideal miles after full standard mode charge... Any feedback on whether that is a good number? (from what I've seen it seems to be on par) I went ahead and tapped the "top off" button just now and after another 1000 hrs of charging at this rate I'll see where it falls!
Anyone know where hood hinges can be sourced from (other then Tesla, they want $409 each!) or is anyone willing to have theirs 3D scanned so I can get them printed out in ABS plastic? If you do the scan I'll get a set for you printed out as well and mail them to you on me!�
Jun 11, 2014
djp That's a great number - 186 miles is typical for a new pack. The average Roadster is down to 180 ideal on a standard charge after 24,000 miles. Charging slowly on 120V improves the displayed number, you'll probably see lower when charging at 240V.
http://www.pluginamerica.org/surveys/batteries/tesla-roadster/PIA-Roadster-Battery-Study.pdf�
Jun 11, 2014
Mobility Not sure if it's compatible with Tesla but maybe Lotus hinges could work. Just a thought. Good luck�
Jun 11, 2014
ElectricLove Lotus Elise doesn't have a front hood, they have 2 body panel inserts which bolt in place. Unfortunately the only way I can get these hinges is via a Tesla OR is someone wouldn't mind checking on theirs for a part number, I've actually been finding a lot of GM parts on this Roadster once you get into the nuts and bolts of it, so it's possible that the hinges are a GM part, if so it'll have a part number on it.
3d printing would be awesome though, would be great to amass a parts catalog so these little parts don't become obsolete and even more expensive than they are already. But need sample parts to scan with 3d scanner (easiest way) or just take pictures of parts with ruler for scale (more work since graphic designer will have to build the 3d file based on the pictures)�
Jun 12, 2014
pgwoosley GM and Lotus worked together to build the Vauxhall VX220 (UK) and Opel Speedster (Germany). Although these are gasoline powered cars, some of the parts are interchangeable with the Roadster. For instance, the soft tops will fit and the wheel bolt pattern appears to be the same (5 hole vs. the 4 hole of an Elise). Start watching Ebay UK and Germany for parts you may be able to use.�
Jun 12, 2014
Mobility Here are some pics.
�
Jun 12, 2014
ElectricLove
Thanks for the pix! It seems those letters/numbers correlate with the materials used (PA MXD6) but don't lead to the specific part...
But the pix help build the 3d file! Need to see the bottom half and hinge itself still...�
Jun 13, 2014
Mobility Here is a side view of the hinge. It is very difficult to see the bottom half of the hinge, without taking it out.
�
Jun 14, 2014
marco2228 Nice thread.
Didn't know the newer Roadsters have hood hinges, mine has them included in the hood CF structure...
Pictures please!!�
Jun 14, 2014
Mobility Forgot to clarify, pictures are from a 2011 2.5 roadster sport.�
Jun 14, 2014
EVGuy Do you still need the hood hinges? Also did you find the schematic you need for the vehicle? If not send me a PM, I have everything you'll need to fix it. part numbers and such. good luck, If you have any question just ask.�
Jun 17, 2014
ElectricLove Thank you very much EVGuy, I've PM'd you.
I do need to take some pictures to post on here, I'll get on that soon, I've got it parked at my neighbors garage a couple blocks over right now b/c he has a ton of excess solar being produced right now which he would rather have go to good use then back to the grid at their measly buy-back rates!
Is it normal for this thing to drop 15 miles of ideal range every 24 hrs it isn't plugged in? I feel like after I charge it up, if I unplug it the charge disappears quickly. Compared to my other EV's this isn't normal but I'm not sure about these Roadsters yet...�
Jun 18, 2014
thefortunes 15 miles isn't normal.
There will be some settling/balancing after the charge is complete (typically 1-2 miles or range loss). That happens within 30 minutes or so in my experience.
Then I lose about 1 mile a day of range if unplugged.�
Jun 18, 2014
ElectricLove What might cause it to be higher? Could it be due to a hot AZ garage? (trying to run A/C compressor to keep the batteries cooled) What are the possibilities?�
Jun 18, 2014
chronopublish I've lost up to 5 miles during the workday when outdoor temps get into the 90s. If you're talking about a 24 hour period in Arizona? Yeah, I think you might be able to attribute your losses entirely to the heat.�
Jun 19, 2014
Tripbug Say I have a couple of headlights you might need if you want them. They came off my 2.0 roadster #532. So let me know.�
Jun 20, 2014
MLAUTO What shop "out east" did you get parts from?�
Jul 30, 2014
ElectricLove Still don't have this project complete but I do have some things moving. Having a friend who runs a body shop repair the body panels and paint them as well. Then we will fit them together.
I also have all the safety equipment (new Seatbelts, SIR, airbags, etc) ready to install.
Charging is an interesting saga: Bought the MC240-1 from user on forum and it didn't work with my vehicle (some kind of compatibility issue with the later Roadsters I think); Tesla tried to help me out but since the vehicle isn't operable I couldn't bring it to them to investigate the issues, instead they let me borrow the newest Mobile connector and pull logs for them remotely, which didn't produce any useful information to them. Instead of worrying too much about it I decided to just pull the Roadster plug and cable off the MC240 and install them as the output on another J1772 compliant EVSE; this worked beautifully and is better than the MC240 anyways because it is good for 60A, so I now have a 60A 240V charger! I also took the MC240 and installed the J1772 plug/cable off of my other EVSE to its outputs and it works as well! So all in all not a bad deal, especially since any J1772 vehicles aren't capable of more than the 30A rating on the MC240 anyways! Whereas the Roadster can handle the higher Amps offered by my other charger which is now a Roadster charger! Thank goodness for Tesla Roadster being part of the J1772 compliance process and therefore simple to adapt to J1772 EVSE, makes me consider swapping the inlet on the vehicle to J1772, but probably not worth the troubles!�
Aug 2, 2014
ElectricLove I do still need hood hinges, dealer said I could "look" at some they have there but haven't had chance to do so yet...
Wondering if any lovely people know how to get the braking system working? My brake booster vac doesn't come on, not sure if its a wiring issue or what. Any ideas on how to diagnose that?
Also, I'm having trouble figuring out how to mount the "bumper" (not the plastic bumper cover but the carbon bumper that mounts to the carbon crashbox up front), anyone with experience on that? Doesn't seem to "mate up" with obvious holes, unless there is a piece I'm missing? Schematics would be awesome but I don't have them...
Thanks,
Sean.
- - - Updated - - -
Thank you so much but I do have headlights already, I think I overpaid pretty badly but I was in a rush to get as many parts as I could together quickly.�
Aug 2, 2014
chris22104 Hi Sean!
We want some pics (with narration) of your progress! Hopefully you've been shooting some as you go along!
Thanks!
Chris�
Aug 3, 2014
ElectricLove OK OK, I've finally got some decent pictures to update everyone with!
As the car sits right now:
Those were the good angles, this is the damage shot:
The CF bumper that is body part the radiator is mounted to and is just sitting on top of the crash box, that is the one I can't figure out how to mount/secure properly!
- - - Updated - - -
And some shots of the franken-charger!
A great way to get a 60A charger but you need the Roadster input cable (or alternatively a J1772 80A cable if you have the "Can" for your roadster already)
I have been charging at 30A because my wiring (pre-charger) is fused at 35A (Used #10 sub-pump wire for run from panel); but the car recognizes it as being capable of up to 60A! That'll be a mission for after I get this thing driving (legally): to run better wiring and upgrade the service to the charging station so I can charge at 60A! This charger is small too, about the size of the MC240, so I can take it with me if I go to anywhere with 50A outlets (RV parks) and use it at 50A! Anyone with the MC240 should seriously consider this upgrade since you already have a 6ga (aka 60A capable) Roadster connector and output cable!�
Aug 3, 2014
MLAUTO It looks like you are missing the top half of the air duct that directs air from the bumper to the condenser, and your lower half might be broken. There are four bolts on top and one on each side that attach the front
, plus the three in the rear by the condenser.
The brake pump has 12v at the connector (green +, black -) when the key is on. The pressure (vacuum) switch is internal.
I asked in a previous post where you purchased used parts from, as I am still looking for a few items.
I actually bid on you car against Worldwide when it was at Copart. I thought it was worth more than what they paid for it, but had my eye on another sport model I later bought (#1324). Let me know if you want to know how much it sold for.�
Aug 3, 2014
ElectricLove Oh, I see, so I need to get that plastic piece, I believe I saw it on a Tesla schematic so I'll see if I can order from them! Thank you!
The guy I purchased parts from had them leftover from a project, he doesn't carry or have any more Tesla parts... on top of that I believe I overpaid for damaged parts anyways...
I'd love to know what it went for on Copart, I feel good about what I paid for it regardless of what it went for there but its nice to know the history anyways! Awesome that you got a sport model, you lucky-duck!�
Aug 3, 2014
ElectricLove Awesome, now that I looked at your pics and my set up I realize exactly the missing piece and you nailed it, its that shroud! Hopefully won't take too long to get from Tesla, thank you so much for your help!
I have to spend this next week studying/testing for my state board exams but next weekend I'll have time to designate to this again! Hoping to be driving the Roadster in September!
Thanks all�
Aug 3, 2014
ElectricLove More questions:
1. I'm not getting 12V power to brake booster vac, where to look for the source of that wire?
2. Anyone have schematics for the 12V wiring up front? Specifically the ones that include the horns, the windshield fluid pump and the rest of the wires that run with the brake booster pump... I've got a mess of loose wires and can't really identify where they should all go, there are at least 14 wires and I can only think of where 6 of them go (2 horns and 1 windshield fluid pump), I've got the booster pump plugged in and the headlights are self-explanatory (I think). I think there are side-marker lights on the 2.0 models but not the 1.0/1.5 models, since I'm using a 1.5 bumper I won't be using those (maybe I could do my own custom side marker lights?).�
Aug 3, 2014
MLAUTO Check fuse #22 in the fuse box, it runs directly there.�
Aug 4, 2014
ElectricLove Interesting revelation today:
The front CF Crashbox was replaced by the dismantler yard and they used one off a Lotus Elise rather than Roadster... So far dimensionally all of the parts have fit fine and the bumper appears it will fit fine however the height between mounts for the front-pull-bolt connector (and also support for the internal CF bumper structure) is different, the Tesla part is about 4mm taller than the Lotus part and the bolting points are completely different as well! Looks like the only solution is to weld a support bar on the Lotus bar to hold the bumper structure. The picture below shows the two parts and their differences... The one the left is the Tesla part the one that is on the right is the Lotus part... The Tesla part is much bigger/substantial so I hope this is gonna work if we weld the extra supports into the Lotus part...
- - - Updated - - -
Done, fuse was good, traced the wire and it was damaged inside of the connector and wasn't making the full connection, I pulled it and recrimped it, now brake pump is working! YAY for power brakes, now my illegal joy-rides are that much safer!
- - - Updated - - -
Done, fuse was good, traced the wire and it was damaged inside of the connector and wasn't making the full connection, I pulled it and recrimped it, now brake pump is working! YAY for power brakes, now my illegal joy-rides are that much safer!�
Aug 24, 2014
ElectricLove Wow, got in touch with the original owner of my Roadster. He said "that little car saved my life!", I think he was going 65-70mph when he got into his accident and he said he broke his leg only because he slammed on the brake and kept holding the brake down during impact. Apparently it is safer for you to release the brake just before impact in an accident like that b/c leaving your leg on the brake means your leg will be absorbing all of the momentum shift that occurs whereas leaving it off the brake it won't absorb any impact (unless there is crush damage in the cock-pit)... I thought that was interesting information!
So, besides that, he also has the original chargers for this car as well as the spare key and key-fob! He said he will give them all to me to stay with the car! So COOL! This guy is awesome, as I'm finding most Tesla owners to be!�
Aug 25, 2014
Chickenlittle Of course this is a labor of love but hope you are tallying the expenses. Curious what it ultimately costs. Can you this a career?�
Aug 25, 2014
Doug_G It is also a very good idea to let go of the steering wheel just before impact. Often the steering gets yanked around because one or more wheels get hit, and you might break your thumbs.�
Aug 25, 2014
ElectricLove I'd like that, as a career, but there aren't enough Roadster's around and I really only like Electric cars. I am hoping that I'll be able to keep my Roadster but fear that by the time I'm done I'll have more than I can afford into it. Currently we are around $32K invested, which is obviously very cheap for one of these! But we aren't done, so who knows how high it could get... My goal is to keep it under $35K, and hopefully sell my Azure Dynamics Electric Transit Connect van for like $20K, then I can keep the Tesla!�
Aug 25, 2014
marco2228 Especially without power steering.
I know someone who also broke his leg. His fault: his seat had been slidden back too far and his legs were straight. So obviously it's better to have the knees a bit bent.
On your Roadster: Have you been able to adjust the front splitter/spoiler? My CF splitter also doesn't fit 100% and my car didn't have a frontal damage.�
Aug 25, 2014
ElectricLove Unfortunately, I haven't gotten that far yet. My friend who is going to install and paint the front body panels had to move his workshop on me and so its in limbo for the next few weeks... I'm hoping next weekend to get it to him and get it rolled out of there within 2/3 weeks but we'll see.�
Aug 26, 2014
Chickenlittle So once done, how do you get a regular title rather than salvage? Is it state inspection?�
Aug 26, 2014
wiztecy Any car that has a titled deemed "salvage" will always be a salvage title car. It can't be fully insured also, only comp. This is due that the car was deemed a total loss due to an accident, theft, etc where the cost to replace was more cost effective by the insurance company rather than to be repaired.�
Aug 26, 2014
Chris Lockfort FYI the trim-pot on your charger will let you set the duty cycle for the J1772 pilot, so your car will only charge at whatever amperage is safe from your current wiring setup, instead of relying on the car's GPS-location-based charge-current-limiting available on the touch screen being always set correctly.
And yes, it does work very well as an RV charger
(Also, if anyone is interested, I have hardware and software modifications on top of my version of this charger that add in 70A charging (and coping with the roadster requesting "active cooling" at this charge rate), active relay cooling, some extra current monitoring and monthly power bill metering, safety temperature sensing and current limiting, interchangeable connectors, etc... )�
Aug 26, 2014
delanman @ElectricLove ... For what it's worth, I was at Chilton's in San Carlos and saw a roadster sitting on a spec die frame adjusted just for Tesla roadsters. Thought it might be useful to check your frame alignment. Chilton Auto Body, San Carlos CA, collision car repair
The place was loaded with Model Ss with body damage. I was told the roadster sitting on the frame was bought from an insurance company a long time ago... It's just been sitting there collecting dust.
�
Aug 26, 2014
hcsharp Very good advice from Chris. Not only will this make your charging more convenient, but it will be a lot safer, too.
Not sure what you mean. The Roadster does not request "active cooling" except on its own CAN bus. It doesn't request anything from the EVSE as far as cooling is concerned. You really shouldn't be using a relay for 60 or 70 amp charging. A contactor rated for 70 or 80A continuous is better suited for this application and won't need any cooling. And if you don't care about J1772 compliance, the Roadster and Model S don't even need a contactor or relay at all. Not saying you should do that... but a few people have. If you search long enough you'll find pics of DIY Roadster EVSEs that fit entirely within a NEMA 14-50 plug.
I'm curious how you implemented your current monitoring. I've done this on a couple of EVSE that I've built and it wasn't as easy as I first envisioned. Did you also monitor voltage? You must have if you were doing power bill metering. Nice work!�
Aug 26, 2014
spaceballs Thanks for the information delanman.
This information should be in the roadsters wiki, as it be useful for someone looking for certified a body shop that can has a roadster spec die frame, as there can't be that many around.�
Aug 27, 2014
JohnnyLounge21 This is such an awesome story. I'm excited to see the finished product! I'm also interested to see the owner's TRUE thoughts on how much this project has cost from start to finish to get the Roadster back where it belongs.
What a great case study for what's possible with a salvaged Roadster!�
Aug 27, 2014
ElectricLove @Johnny, Yeah the cost is in my book "a steal". My total is estimated to be around $35K, and thats including the fact that I just ruined some Lotus Elise seatbelt/retractors trying to "rebelt" them with the Tesla belts and now have to buy the belts from Tesla for about $700 (their prices tend to be crazy!). The airbags were easy as they are Lotus parts, I did that swap yesterday and it went very well, the cost on those bags was about $300 plus $50 for an SIR module (needed to control the bags and must be replaced if they ever go off)...
The only bad part of the cost saga... I sold Intel stock at about $27/share to get the money to buy the roadster (plus the anticipated cost of parts); that same $38K I cashed in at that time would now be valued at around $50K, with $50K I could have simply bought an '08 Roadster without the salvage aspect and called it a day! So, I regret that a bit but in the end I'll still have my dream car and I was able to afford it, so that's the most important thing!
I'll be happy when this project is done! Which is getting close... few weeks away.�
Sep 19, 2014
ElectricLove Update w/ pictures:
Roadster is getting close to ready... Everything is installed but the body panels, all safety equipment has been replaced with new stuff, new louder horns were installed, etc. With the headlights on its starting to look like a real car from the front angles too!
- - - Updated - - -
The Roadster is getting so close, all safety equipment is replaced with new stuff, the headlights make it look like a real car again! The last step is to install the body panels and then paint and blend them with the rest of the car... Hopefully just another week or 2 and it'll be ready for its Level 3 AZ inspection and getting its title and license!
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Oct 2, 2014
ElectricLove Anyone aware of a Model S TO J1772 adapter in existence? I'm thinking that would be a nice intermediary while waiting for the MS->Roadster adapter... I built my own J1772->Roadster 70A connector (and 15' extension cord) and would love to add that MS input capability... Alternatively does anyone know where and if possible to buy an MS input connector? I am confident I could make one with that.�
Oct 2, 2014
hcsharp I made a Roadster to J1772 but not a MS to J1772. It wouldn't help you much because it would have the same problems that the SR adapter is going through. It needs different electronics depending on charger version and Roadster version and not all the details have been worked out.
The only place you might buy one is Tesla and they won't sell them or provide specs. It's not an easy thing to do. You need high-temperature plastic that dissipates heat well.�
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